Jump to content

Taja

Member
  • Posts

    872
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brazil

System

  • CPU
    i7 2600
  • RAM
    10Gb
  • GPU
    Gtx 960
  • Storage
    120Gb SSD + 1Tb HDD
  • PSU
    Evga 430W
  • Cooling
    Hyper t4
  • Mouse
    Logitech G402

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. There were 2 different codes, dont remember them. Also the pc does not even get to the bios, and when it does the crash happens even inside the bios
  2. So, I pretty much singled out which component is faulty, but I just wanted to see if im not missing anything. My pc was working fine, until I had 2 blue screens in a row followed by no POST. I tried reconnecting everything, tried turning it on without each ram stick, without the HDD, SSD... And nothing. So the next day I try to turn it on and it works, UNTIL I connect the ethernet cable: instant crash. I manage to boot it again, and as soon as I connect the cable it crashes and cant POST anymore. The mouse and keyboard light up, but the screen is black (the monitor and gpu are working). After some time I manage to boot it again into the BIOS, and when I connect the ethernet cable it shuts down again (at this point I tried another cable, AND the cable wasnt connected to anything). Can it be anything other than the motherboard causing this? When I manage to turn it on I can run benchmarks and play, but its hard to make it boot.
  3. Absolutely DOUBT that the recommended specs are for 1080p60fps ultra. For sure its for 1080p, but I would guess with lower settings (not low per se, but maybe medium/high mix) But this pc seens very capable to do 1080p with high settings (ultra is stupid and pointless) with possibly well above 60 fps.
  4. I have no idea about that... But want to know what is NOT a scam? lttstore.com
  5. CPU may be overheating, but thats ra extreme. I had this problem when my CPU was hitting 110°C. Most likely the PSU is going bad or it is bellow the adequate wattage for the pc on full load.
  6. Do you have a reason to upgrade? Because as far as I can tell, of you are having a good experience with the pc, there is no need to change anything. Just dont buy stuff you dont need just because you feel like you have to. That being said, 120mm AIOs usually suck, so if the temps are not to your liking, just get a better one.
  7. I had the same issue with my last pc, after changing the mobo+cpu+ram the problem persisted. then I formated my SSD and did a fresh install of windows, same problem.
  8. So, basically I have been having this problem for ages, after being on for some time the pc starts to lag (the cursor, audio cracks and stutters, video lags and stutters). I noticed it is really bad when there is a lot of network traffic, like torrents or lots of tabs being opened. So I saw on the monitor a high usage of cpu by "system interrupts" and after some time, got the DPC latency checker and checked drivers. By disabling the realtek network driver, the stutters go away and the dpc checker also shows a big improvement - so I concluded that the realtek driver is the culprit. The image shows the imediate drop on latency as soon as I disable the driver. BUT I JUST CANT FIX IT!!! Disabling the driver means I have no internet, and I tried different versions of the driver (2015,2017,2018, 2020) and the problem persists. I tried disabling some WOL settings of the driver, I tried everything I could find, and the problem just persists. im honestly feeling out of options, I have this problem for years and the only "fix" I found is reseting the pc, and when it starts again, I reset it again. it works, but it sucks to have to restart the pc multiple times per day. This is a quote from a random guy online from 3 years ago, and his topic had zero answers. low hopes on this one
  9. Well, to me the pc is a "new pc" when J change the core: mobo+cpu(+memory usually too). Since I never do pointless upgrades, the core always change at the same time (ram being the exception, because of failures or expanding) The secondary components (hdd, psu, etc) can change all the time because of failures, or carry on to new pcs - to me they are almost like peripherals regarding to the pc "identity'. The exception is the GPU, which can be VERY relevant. So the gpu is like a "1.5 version" situation, for example I went from a 750ti to a 960 and THEN I changed my pc, and later the 960 got out and a rx 580 went in. 3 gpus, but only 2 pcs - the 960 was in both the old and the new pc.
  10. Of course they are, I have a Ryzden and a GRTX 2095Ti-tan in my budget build.
  11. I have most of my legal games on steam, but I prefer buying on GOG when possible because it has no DRM and it pays the devs more iirc. also its always good to try to avoid the titan sometimes, even though its convenient to have it all on the same platform.
  12. Tl;dr: Esd CAN kill your components, but realistically it wont. Taking minor precautions is enough, and if you are unsure or have really expensive components, just discharge yourself from time to time and avoid buing on carpet, etc. I remember a jayztwocents video where he actively tries to kill stuff with ESD, you can see the arcs from his figer to the components, and iirc nothing dies. Not even usb ports. That means stuff cant die? NO, but it shows how resistant your hardware is. For me, the fact that tech reviewers "mistreat" their hardware is good, because it makes me less afraid to damage stuff since they basically spit and kick the hardware and it still works. ALSO: A BIT unrelated, but can we agree that water kills hardware? Cool. Everybody knows that, everybody agrees that water is waaaaaaay more dangerous than esd. So I didnt find the jayztwocents video about esd, but I found this one. It goes without saying that this is insane and nobody should try it, but the video card just refuses to die (after the video he flashes a new bios and it works): https://youtu.be/iJUl_IqDbNA
  13. True. I honestly prefer 1080p than 720p, the difference is really small, but since 1080p is mainstream, its fine. But on my 1080p phone I cant make out individual pixels even looking really close
  14. Not a great PPI, an AMAZING PPI. Waaaaay better than the normal 24" 1080p screens, which are not bad at all. I love low res for small devices, a 1080p phone and a 4k one are literally identical, as we are humans with eyes and not microscopes.
  15. From low to medium/high it is very noticeable in some games, and in some settings. The water in tw3 for example, its way better on high than on low or medium. It depends a lot on the game and the setting, but a lot of settings usually have minir differences and a lot of impact on performance. As for ultra, its just a "tank performance, change nothing else" button. Never use ultra, unless your fps is maxed out anyways... Ultra is just stupid.
×