historicalpoultry

Hello there I am looking for a USB-C active hub and have trouble finding any. My use case: i have a single USB-C port on the back of my motherboard (no clue which gen anymore due to the idiotic naming schemes of USB, but it's a newer one) and I'd like to connect an active USB hub to that which would make access easier and allow more than one t5 ssd to be connected. My problem is that I can't seem to find any. What I am looking for is pretty much this: but instead of all connectors being USB type A, I'd need them to be type C, as well as the input connection to be type C as well. Hope this is clear Do hubs like that even exist? Thanks a bunch in advance.

I am not sure if you'll be any happier with "better" gear. I'm just wondering if you're actually having trouble with the different process of using a camera instead of a smartphone. I've had a couple of a6000s in my hands over time and there is a reason why it was only recently discontiued. Yes, it's menus are pretty cluttered but one can defnitely get used to it to a point where one isn't held back by it. No, it is absolutely not a pro level camera. However, exposure works exactly the same wether you have an a6000 or a Canon 1dx in your hand. I have friends who still use the a6000 and produce great results. Yes, the sensor isn't up to par anymore with what is out today but they know how their gear work and therefore know how to overcome potential challenges. Personally, I'd gladly use an a6000 over any of the current smartphones in any case for photography, simply because I have proper control over my exposure. Smartphones simply don't allow you to fully do that. Yes, there are apps that let you adjust ISO and shutter speed but it's normally not possible to adjust aperture properly on a smartphone lens (is the S9 the one which does have a stop-down feature in the lens?). Anyways, to come back to my first sentence, I'd suggest you learn to use the a6000 before you spend any money on a better system. Should you find that you just simply prefer the ease of use of a smartphone and cumbersome UIs hold you back in your photography, maybe you should stick to smartphones. Because as people above have stated also, every system has it's quirks and every system feels somewhat ancient compared to the UI of smartphone (with maybe Leica being the closest to a "modern" UI). Hope this helps

I recomend the Mac as well. I use a base 15" model from 2017 (I think) and work with Premiere. A coworker uses a very similarly spec'd Asus Zenbook Pro for the same work as I do and the amount of compatibility issues that she's run into with Windows is much higher that what I have with the Mac. Export times are also almost always faster, especially when we export to ProRes for working with agencies. Besides the Mac I also use a pretty powerful Windows machine at home for personal stuff because I'm not spending a ton of cash for an iMac Pro or even a Mac Pro (also nowhere near able to afford either of them). So I see both the Mac and the Windows Version of Premiere regularly. My main point is that on a mobile Platform, i.e. a Laptop, I don't want to have to troubleshoot. And my Macbook has run almost flawlessly for 2 years now, whereas the Asus of my coworker always has trouble with new releases of premiere, mainly because of incompatible graphics drivers. Overall I've noticed that the whole CC library of applications runs a lot better on the Mac, using available resources better and is more stable.

Yes, I've seen the Hardware Unboxed review. I felt like it wasn't a real critical point for me as I am not looking for the absolute most performance. I value quietness and 100% stability more. And I got a pretty good deal on it PSU is Corsair hx850i and case is Fractal meshifiy s2, airflow is great, I've populated pretty much all the fan mounting options.

Hi there everyone It's been a while since I've dabbled in overclocking and Pc Hardware in general. I built my last system back when Skylake just came out. Back then, I had a pretty OK grasp of overclocking my 6600k and later a 6700k to a point where I got stable and good results without going too deep into the fine details. Last week I decided to finally upgrade my system with a 3700k, a new motherboard and some more RAM to go to 32Gb. All the rest has stayed the same. Here are my system's specs: AMD Ryzen 3700x with be quiet! dark rock pro 4 cooler MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge Wifi 32GB Corsair Vengeance lpx ddr4 3000 in 4 x 8GB sticks GTX 1080ti I use the system for gaming, video editing, animating in after effects and photo work, all in pretty much equal amounts. Now here's my question: I tried to get an idea about overclocking 3rd gen ryzen, but I feel like so much has changed since I last overclocked Skylake, to a point where I feel like going the easy route is more viable for me . It's honestly pretty confusing to me, seems completely different with stuff like OCing the infinity fabric and stuff. Anyways, all I want is good performance from the 3700x, I don't care about an extra 200Mhz in clock, which is where the advantage seems to be at with manual overclocking. So: Is enabling Precision Boost Overdrive in Ryzen Master all I need to do to get a little better performance out of the CPU or should I be simultaneously adjusting anything in the BIOS? Like undervolting maybe? I'm looking for a very stable and reliable platform that runs great (which it does for me pretty much already.) Here's what I've done so far: Enabled PBO in Ryzen Master, enabled A-XMP and set RAM to proper frequency in BIOS Really appreciate your help Cheers historicalpoultry

Does it need to be video straight out of camera? If not - and your friend has a dslr of pretty much any kind - get a DC-Adapter for said camera, hook it up to a power outlet and have him buy a cheap intervalometer that will let him shoot a photo/minute

I work with 1440p monitors both at home as well as at work, all of them being 27 inches. I'd say that's the minimum in terms of resolution at 27 inches. If you can afford a good 4k monitor with decent color space coverage, that's your safest bet.

I second this. There's no camera I know of that supports USB audio. What camera did you order?

Does your phone shoot 1080p 60p? Otherwise I can think of an older Gopro

Might as well be Sony/Minolta A-mount. They used to have screw drive autofocus too.

There has been many incidents of this ranging from all kind of cameras. I remember there being "issues" on the original A7 from Sony and older x trans sensors as well. I would say that it is in fact most likey the filter stack in front of the sensor. What lens were you using? Maybe using adapted lenses that aren't optimised for the angle of incident of mirrorless cameras can produce a stronger effect. Just guessing here though. Besides all this: I doubt you will have any issues when shooting under normal conditions. I'm assuming here that you're not really shooting such bright lights at the exact right angle all that often I bet I could achieve similar results with my x-h1 if I tried. But do I worry about it ever ruining a picture? Not really Cheers

no there is nothing that compares as far as I know, sorry. you'll need to bite the bullet and buy the sigma mc-11 a-mount to e-mount adapter. this one is less common than the ef to e-mount version. maybe there are some used you can get cheaper.

If you're not happy with the audio quality and there's no option to increase the bitrate, I'd suggest using another software to record your audio. Audacitiy maybe?

I can recommend the Fuji line of Instax Cameras. I got gifted one and colors look nice, as well as the film stock being less expensive than the Polaroids make it what I would recommend. Easy to use as well, pretty much just point at and shoot situation. I don't really use it often, but I've taken enough shots to say that they work great. There's different formats of film stock for the respective cameras, so keep that in mind.

Well, Sony recently released the a6400, which has a 180 degree flip out screen (i.e. "selfie screen"). All other Sony a6000-series cameras have a rotating screen that does not articulate the full 180 degrees, but rather about 45 degrees downwards and slightly more than 90 degrees upwards