MNMadman

FurMark is different than most programs. It can actually kill your GPU, and has killed many in the past before it was discovered to be deadly. For that reason, the GPU drivers will automatically control the GPU overclock to make sure it stays safe when you run FurMark.

A "bare drive" is the OEM package -- just the drive itself. The other option is the Retail package, which includes a CD or DVD with tool programs on it and maybe a cable. The Retail box is more expensive. 6Gbps is the max SATA III transfer rate.

I highly recommend doing pull setups on all of your rads. That way you can easily clean the dust from your rads. Otherwise, you will end up taking the fans off to clean the dust out of the rads. Linus has a video somewhere showing this.

I use a very simple formula for how much radiator you need as a minimum: One fan space per 100W TDP, rounded up. You have a 275W TDP GPU and a 91W TDP CPU, which adds up to 366W TDP total. That means 3.6 fan spaces, rounded up to 4. Each fan space is 120mm. 4x120=480. One 480 or one 360 plus one 120 or two 240s would be the minimum I would recommend. Also note that I have a 6600K and I've seen it over 130W when at maximum overclock. Graphics cards also routinely go over their TDP values by 10-25% depending on the card manufacturer (my EVGA 980 Ti is limited to 10% over with the stock GPU BIOS, and it goes 10% over every time I play a game). So, while you might be able to get away with having less than 480mm of radiator, you will not be happy with the temps and it may impact negatively on overclocking potential.

I definitely agree -- I thought it was going to be good, but it was the first movie in a while that exceeded my expectations. Hell, even the beginning credits were great! And the final scene after the credits was good too. I might even go see it in the theater again...

It will work fine in a pull configuration exhausting air out the top of the case.

For your current setup I would recommend 480mm of radiator. For the future setup with the Nano I would recommend 360mm of radiator. The formula I use is one "fan space" per 100W TDP of stuff cooled, rounding up. That would be 334W currently (3.34 fan spaces round up to 4; 4x120=480), and 259W (2.59 fan spaces round up to 3; 3x120=360) with the Nano. Neither of those setups would perform well with two fan spaces, let alone one fan space.

I went with the Ripjaws V F4-3000C15D-16GVR for my new system, as it was cheaper than the Trident Z at the time. Plus, the all-red heat spreaders went better with my system theme. I've been running it at 3200 for almost a month now. I highly recommend it.

Fine. ----- @htonettti You don't actually need a good quality 500W power supply for that system. You can certainly get by with a 400W or 450W unit which very likely has lower quality components due to the manufacturer actually wanting to make some money from the sale of those low-wattage power supplies. -OR- You could make the smart choice and purchase a good quality 500W+ power supply. Because, you know, a good quality power supply might be especially important for someone who wants to overclock. ----- There, @Aniallation, is that better? I tried very hard not to mislead anyone.

I don't EVER recommend anything less than a 500W power supply for a full-size system. Power supply manufacturers don't tend to put the best components in power supplies less than 500W because they're so cheap, so it's harder to find a "good quality" power supply at those low wattages. I'm sure they exist, but I'm also sure you pay a premium for them. Better to spend $80 (whatever the UK equivalent of that is) and get a good power supply than go cheap and be disappointed.

Yeah, but you don't want to run a power supply close to its operating limits for long periods of time. That, and power supplies tend to have best efficiency at 50-75% capacity.

You need a good quality power supply of 500W or greater. My recommendations: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W SeaSonic SSR-550RM 550W XFX TS 550W

If you didn't read the Dual vs Quad link I put in my last post, do so. There is almost no real-world difference between dual-channel and quad-channel in gaming. Nothing you would actually notice. And to clarify what NumLock said, the performance doesn't die off. You get used to it, so it no longer seems amazingly fast. It still is amazingly fast (SSDs versus HDDs), but the initial thrill has worn off.

1600MHz memory is 1600MHz memory, whether it's on a single-channel, dual-channel, triple-channel, or quad-channel mainboard. For the average user who installs a discrete GPU, there is almost no difference between the the number of channels in actual gaming and such. Some differences in scientific stuff though. Single vs. Dual Dual vs. Quad

We know as much as you do about those settings. I've never seen anything but Util and VRel for PerfCap reasons -- Util when at idle, and VRel when the GPU maxes out its speed. This is at stock speed/voltage and at overclocked/stock voltage and at overclocked/over-volted. I've always took it to mean that to go higher would require more voltage. Quote from W1zzard about perfcap:

For the front, a standard thickness 38mm radiator is recommended. For the top mount, you can use any thickness -- even the 60mm ones. They show those in the Evolv ATX overview video on the Phanteks website.

I'm a special snowflake -- I update the BIOS as often as I update drivers. As soon as I discover there's a new one, I update to it. I'm not worried about BIOS update failures -- never had one in 23 years of computer geekery.

I'm guessing you have the two drives reversed, as a SATA3 SSD would never have 1400MBps read. And to actually answer the question, no probably not. I like my 950 Pro M.2 because it loads everything (including all programs and games and game levels) so quickly, but for most it's not worth the extra cost. Better to get a larger SATA SSD.

I have the STRAFE RGB with Cherry MX Brown switches. Best keyboard I've ever owned, though my only other experience with mechanicals is with a Razer BlackWidow Ultimate with Cherry MX Blues and a Razer BlackWidow Stealth with Razer's Green switches. The STRAFE does feel sturdy, and the switches are awesome. I like that it includes the extra keys, but I'm not actually going to use them.

I use the 3/8" ID 5/8" OD because it's harder to kink.

It's an okay case. Compared to a "normal" case it's huge. Coming from an Air 540 not so much. The side panels are interchangeable, so you can have the window on either side. The front IO can also be mounted on either side. Mine arrived "tweaked" by about half an inch. There was no damage to the box, but the case sits on three legs. Cabling is a nightmare. There isn't a "back side" to this case as you can see through both side panels. One has a huge window, and the other has mesh you can see through. Pics I've cleaned up the cabling since then. I ended up putting the SSD trays back in to cover up some of the larger cables. The fan sitting on the mainboard tray is there to cool the Samsung 950 Pro M.2 which tends to overheat when benching or under heavy disk loads. I also went with an EK-Supremacy EVO Copper/Acetal CPU block because I didn't like the look of the mainboard without the VRM heat sinks (and the Monoblock I originally had requires them to be removed). And the reservoir LED was supposed to be red, but they shipped me a white one instead. I wish I had done some research on Phanteks before as my build would have been a hell of a lot cleaner.

My December 2015 build has the Core X2. I recommend a Phanteks.

If I was building one now, I'd go with a Phanteks. Phanteks Evolv ATX Overview Video They have other great ones too.

According to the wiki, 1.75B.

Pics of my setup. I have cleaned up the wiring since then, but you get the gist. And that fan just sitting on the mainboard tray is for cooling the Samsung 950 Pro M.2 drive, which is in its slot right below the GPU. It overheats if you don't use either a fan or heat sinks. The reservoir LED was supposed to be red, but they shipped me a white one instead.