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About JaZoN_XD

  • Title
  • Birthday Oct 05, 1999

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Origin
  • Xbox Live
    LAS3R SpectruM

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Car and aviation enthusiast, gun nut and computer nerd!
  • Biography
    Christian, piano player, gamer, car, aircraft, tech and firearm enthusiast.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer


  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-4690k @ 4.5GHz stock voltage
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-Z97X Gaming 3
  • RAM
    24GB Kingston HyperX @ 1866MHz CL10
  • GPU
    2x EVGA GTX 970 FTW @ 160W power limit
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R5 Black Windowed
  • Storage
    Some no-name NVMe 256GB, 1TB worth of SATA III SSD, 2TB worth of HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair CX600M (yes SLI didn't blow it up, it's 7 years old tho)
  • Display(s)
    Asus VX228H
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 Cherry MX Blue, Red LED
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Razer Kraken Pro v2
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home
  • Laptop
    Lenovo Thinkpad X1 Carbon 6th Gen

Recent Profile Visitors

2,254 profile views
  1. The debug LED should be on the right side of the board, near the upper corner.
  2. What lights show up on the motherboard? ASUS motherboards have debug lights.
  3. Hi everyone, every NVMe drive that I put into my desktop seems to run really hot for no reason even when idling. This is onl the controller, the NAND themselves do not get super hot. The hottest one I have runs at close to 65C or even higher sometimes when doing really not much. Incidentally though, when under full load, it doesn't get much hotter than that, goes up to around 70C. It's almost like it's always running at full voltage/power even when idling. Interestingly, if I use my NVMe drives in my laptop (X1 Carbon 6G) then they run super cool, around 30C. This is really botheri
  4. Tried it on different computers, they worked perfectly fine.
  5. Hello, I have the B550M TUF, it has: 4x USB 3.x on back panel 2x USB 2.0 on back panel 2x USB 3.0 on front panel I am trying to use a 1 -> 3 port USB 3.0 hub on my front panel headers for my mouse and keyboard (both wireless). The issue is that as soon as I attach a third device (USB stick) into the remaining front panel port, the keyboard will drop out completely or start to work extremely intermittently. If I put the USB stick into the back panel, the issue doesn't happen. In addition, if I put the mouse, keyboard, and USB stick onto
  6. But the up and down spikes - not a consistent load it seems.
  7. Ah, no luck. Setting it to 74 Hz also triggers the "input out of range" message. Even at 61 Hz it does this. I am on Displayport btw.
  8. Hi everyone, wanted to ask if anyone has experience with these HP monitors. This monitor is a 1440p x 60 Hz monitor. I found that it can go up to 75 Hz when setting custom Nvidia resolutions which makes a nice difference. However whenever I do so, even though the image is displayed just fine, the monitor itself decides that the "input is out of range" and forces monitor to go to sleep after 30 seconds. Has anyone found a way to disable this or a workaround? Would be nice to use this monitor at 75 Hz. Thanks!
  9. Hey everyone, trying to decide if QLC is a smart choice for games library. I know that QLC is extremely slow when it comes to very large files since once it fills up the SLC cache, writing to the QLC directly becomes extremely slow, even slower than an HDD in some cases. However, is that the process when you download and install games? For example, games are like 50 - 60 GB nowadays, but is that equivalent to trying to transfer a single 50 - 60 GB file? Thanks!
  10. Ah, this is an interesting approach, never thought to replace BIOS itself. I've done some soldering to replace MOSFETs and stuff, so this should be relatively simple in comparison. May be a lost-cause at this point though, 6 year old platform now... I mean, it still runs... somewhat LOL
  11. Bump, tried different BIOS versions, same results. CPU will only boot if it's OCed, it appears that stock voltage settings for stock clocks are not correct, but yet when I play around with the Vcore to something that I know works, it still doesn't boot into Windows. Will only boot into Windows and run stably if OCed... WTF is with this computer lmao
  12. will try that. EDIT: As it turns out, the second BIOS isn't something that I just choose to boot with. It's only a backup BIOS that works when the main BIOS is corrupted, and it apparently all it does is it flashes the main BIOS. This may mean I might need to flash the BIOS with the Gigabyte firmware again just in case.
  13. I may try flashing it again, it is indeed running the latest BIOS. This CPU hasn't really been overclocked that much in its life, it was ran mostly stock and relatively cool for most of its life so I doubt its a hardware degradation thing.
  14. For some reason, my computer will refuse to boot at stock settings, or any settings that seem to deviate from current settings... I've been running the CPU at 4.5GHz \at stock voltage for quite a while now, and on a few occasions I had some BSODs so I wanted to up the voltage by maybe 20mV to increase stability. However, when I did that, the computer wouldn't boot, it would get to the windows loading screen, spin for a few seconds, and it looks like when it's just about to load up the OS behind the scenes, that's when it hard freezes. Why would increasing the voltage on a pretty st