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MNMadman

Member
  • Content Count

    44
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About MNMadman

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday Aug 12, 1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-6600K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Maximus VIII Gene mATX
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws V F4-3000C15D-16GVR 2x8GB
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX980 Ti Hydro Copper
  • Case
    Thermaltake Core X2 mATX
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 NVMe SSD, Western Digital Caviar Black 5TB 7,200 RPM SATA HD
  • PSU
    Corsair HX750i ATX
  • Display(s)
    Acer XB270HU bprz 27" 2560x1440 144 Hz IPS G-Sync
  • Cooling
    Custom Liquid Loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Gaming STRAFE RGB USB w/ Cherry MX Brown Switches
  • Mouse
    Corsair Gaming SABRE RGB USB Laser Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Corsair Gaming VOID RGB USB Gaming Headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  1. FurMark is different than most programs. It can actually kill your GPU, and has killed many in the past before it was discovered to be deadly. For that reason, the GPU drivers will automatically control the GPU overclock to make sure it stays safe when you run FurMark.
  2. A "bare drive" is the OEM package -- just the drive itself. The other option is the Retail package, which includes a CD or DVD with tool programs on it and maybe a cable. The Retail box is more expensive. 6Gbps is the max SATA III transfer rate.
  3. I highly recommend doing pull setups on all of your rads. That way you can easily clean the dust from your rads. Otherwise, you will end up taking the fans off to clean the dust out of the rads. Linus has a video somewhere showing this.
  4. I use a very simple formula for how much radiator you need as a minimum: One fan space per 100W TDP, rounded up. You have a 275W TDP GPU and a 91W TDP CPU, which adds up to 366W TDP total. That means 3.6 fan spaces, rounded up to 4. Each fan space is 120mm. 4x120=480. One 480 or one 360 plus one 120 or two 240s would be the minimum I would recommend. Also note that I have a 6600K and I've seen it over 130W when at maximum overclock. Graphics cards also routinely go over their TDP values by 10-25% depending on the card manufacturer (my EVGA 980 Ti is lim
  5. I definitely agree -- I thought it was going to be good, but it was the first movie in a while that exceeded my expectations. Hell, even the beginning credits were great! And the final scene after the credits was good too. I might even go see it in the theater again...
  6. It will work fine in a pull configuration exhausting air out the top of the case.
  7. For your current setup I would recommend 480mm of radiator. For the future setup with the Nano I would recommend 360mm of radiator. The formula I use is one "fan space" per 100W TDP of stuff cooled, rounding up. That would be 334W currently (3.34 fan spaces round up to 4; 4x120=480), and 259W (2.59 fan spaces round up to 3; 3x120=360) with the Nano. Neither of those setups would perform well with two fan spaces, let alone one fan space.
  8. I went with the Ripjaws V F4-3000C15D-16GVR for my new system, as it was cheaper than the Trident Z at the time. Plus, the all-red heat spreaders went better with my system theme. I've been running it at 3200 for almost a month now. I highly recommend it.
  9. Fine. ----- @htonettti You don't actually need a good quality 500W power supply for that system. You can certainly get by with a 400W or 450W unit which very likely has lower quality components due to the manufacturer actually wanting to make some money from the sale of those low-wattage power supplies. -OR- You could make the smart choice and purchase a good quality 500W+ power supply. Because, you know, a good quality power supply might be especially important for someone who wants to overclock. ----- There, @Aniallati
  10. I don't EVER recommend anything less than a 500W power supply for a full-size system. Power supply manufacturers don't tend to put the best components in power supplies less than 500W because they're so cheap, so it's harder to find a "good quality" power supply at those low wattages. I'm sure they exist, but I'm also sure you pay a premium for them. Better to spend $80 (whatever the UK equivalent of that is) and get a good power supply than go cheap and be disappointed.
  11. Yeah, but you don't want to run a power supply close to its operating limits for long periods of time. That, and power supplies tend to have best efficiency at 50-75% capacity.
  12. You need a good quality power supply of 500W or greater. My recommendations: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W SeaSonic SSR-550RM 550W XFX TS 550W
  13. If you didn't read the Dual vs Quad link I put in my last post, do so. There is almost no real-world difference between dual-channel and quad-channel in gaming. Nothing you would actually notice. And to clarify what NumLock said, the performance doesn't die off. You get used to it, so it no longer seems amazingly fast. It still is amazingly fast (SSDs versus HDDs), but the initial thrill has worn off.
  14. 1600MHz memory is 1600MHz memory, whether it's on a single-channel, dual-channel, triple-channel, or quad-channel mainboard. For the average user who installs a discrete GPU, there is almost no difference between the the number of channels in actual gaming and such. Some differences in scientific stuff though. Single vs. Dual Dual vs. Quad
  15. We know as much as you do about those settings. I've never seen anything but Util and VRel for PerfCap reasons -- Util when at idle, and VRel when the GPU maxes out its speed. This is at stock speed/voltage and at overclocked/stock voltage and at overclocked/over-volted. I've always took it to mean that to go higher would require more voltage. Quote from W1zzard about perfcap:
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