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Kobathor

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About Kobathor

  • Birthday December 28

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    Kobathor#1007
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Computers
  • Biography
    Computers!!

  • Occupation
    Boring Job
  • Member title
    Worst Price/Performance 2015

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen R7 7800X3D
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte B650M AORUS Elite AX AM5 MicroATX
  • RAM
    G.Skill Flare X5 6000MHz CL36 16x2
  • GPU
    ASRock RX 9070 XT Steel Legend
  • Case
    Fractal Design Pop! Mini Air
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 EVO+ 1TB, Inland Performance Plus 4TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850W GT
  • Display(s)
    Samsung G7 32" 1440p 240Hz VA
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U14s
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 5 with Kailh Hako Royal Clears (2015)
    Keychron K3 w/ Keychron Optical Browns
    Some random Gateron board
  • Mouse
    Keychron M5
  • Sound
    Sennheiser x Massdrop HD 58X Jubilee + Shure MV7x
  • Operating System
    CachyOS + Windows 11 Pro
  • Laptop
    Framework Laptop 13 (Intel i5 13th Gen Core)
    Microsoft Surface Laptop 2
  • Phone
    Google Pixel 9 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

6,570 profile views
  1. Will the system boot if you have only one stick in the A2 slot?
  2. Welcome to the forum Here is a link to the owner's manual for your motherboard: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_x870e-aorus-elite-wifi7-ice_1301_e.pdf?v=ef6f52a7ab2d3d202eead1561eb2584f Page 15 speaks to installing the memory. Please make sure your two DIMMs are in the correct slots. For two DIMMs, they should be in slots DDR5_A2 and DDR5_B2. If your DIMMs are installed in the correct slots, the computer should boot fine. Do note, DDR5 requires "training" upon first boot and periodically afterwards. This training process can take multiple minutes for 32GB. When I first upgraded my PC to what's in my signature, memory training took a while. Your motherboard also has a two-digit readout. This readout will show an error code if the booting process has failed. The codes are explained in the manual beginning on page 40. Try letting it sit for a while in the boot process. If it boots after a few minutes, that is normal. If the boot fails, consult the error code on the two-digit readout and let us know what it says.
  3. The most important specs are the Volt-Amps the UPS can supply, and how long it can supply the maximum load for. For example, I use a 1500VA unit, and it can supply the maximum 1500VA for up to 3 minutes. 1500VA translates to around 900 watts maximum output for a setup with a power factor of around .6 (common for modern computers and monitors). So, my UPS could theoretically supply around 900 watts of power for up to 3 minutes. Since my setup will never use a maximum of 900 watts, it means I actually have at least a few minutes to shut everything down before my UPS runs out of juice. For your setup, I'd look for at least a 1200VA unit. If you can find a 1200VA unit rated for at least a few minutes of power at full load, you should easily have enough time to save all of your work before shutting down. If you want more wiggle room, a 1500VA unit rated for the same run time will be better.
  4. Anything that's at least 1500VA should suffice. Some recommend pure sine wave inverter UPS, but modern PC power supplies can cope with modified sine wave just fine. Try finding a 1500VA unit, it should be cheaper. For reference, I run my whole desktop, server, and networking setup on my 1500VA UPS. When I'm running my PC with a gaming load, and doing a CPU x265 encode on my server, my full setup draws about 700 watts as measured by my Kill-A-Watt. See specs in my signature. The UPS handles brownouts just fine, though it would certainly run out of battery pretty quickly during a sustained power outage. It's rated to output the full 900 watts for up to 3 minutes.
  5. They only include it if they have done a CPU review, on the Power Consumption & Efficiency page. They haven't done a review of the 5650G, so they don't have that data published. That CPU is basically the same of the 5600G, though, which they do have a review for. Here is the relevant page of the 5600G review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-5-5600g/22.html The two chips should consume almost the same amount of power. Given the power consumption test they did of the 5600G, the 5650G should be a very efficient processor. It actually beats the 5800X for both efficiency and instant power consumption. As for idle power, their test system (which is more than just the processor) shows a very normal idle power at 52W.
  6. Hey, sorry I did not get back to you. Busy times recently. You are correct that the main Ryzen chips use more power than the Ryzen G series chips at an instant measurement (watts). However, the main line chips can be more efficient overall. Though, that is only true for the 8-core chips. The 12- and 16-core chips are indeed less efficient overall. See the charts below. If you want 8 cores, the 5700X is the most efficient chip. Yes, the 5700X uses ~120W maximum versus the 5700G ~100W at full utilization, but in the Efficiency section you can see it only uses 13.2kJ to complete the same amount of work as the 5700G which used up 14.1kJ. So, in your case, I will say do not buy the 5950X or 5900X, as they are not very efficient compared to the 8-core Ryzen chips. Instead, buy the 5800X or the 5700X, which are faster and more efficient than the 5700G.
  7. Do you have a budget? You could certainly accomplish this with one powerful system running virtual machines and containers to keep processes separate. Newer chips have become pretty power efficient. Something like a DDR4 Ryzen 5000-series system with unregistered ECC memory would work. An example system could be formatted much like my homelab server, except with unregistered ECC DDR4. A Ryzen 5950X or 5900XT will give you 16 cores to play with for around 300 euro. Get a decent motherboard with as much expansion as you need, an M.2 SSD for boot and operating system(s), and an Intel ARC A310 for transcoding. The rest of your money will be split between memory and hard drives. Don't forget a case and power supply, of course. If you are somewhat budget constrained, a cheaper chip would suffice. The 8-core and 12-core Ryzen 3 chips are pretty inexpensive and still offer a lot of performance, and unregistered ECC support.
  8. I think a laptop is fundamentally different from an iPad. Of course, iPadOS is getting closer to MacOS, especially with the not-so-new windowing features. Still, an iPad is not the same thing as a MacBook. It can't run the same software, even if it has a faster chip. Also, the Macbook has a larger screen and better battery life. It also has another USB port, and a headphone jack. IDK, I just don't think this MacBook is competing with a smaller iPad in reality. EDIT - For a comparable iPad you'd also need to add a Magic Keyboard of your own, which isn't cheap. $270 new for the iPad Air 11" Magic Keyboard. It also isn't really competing with Windows laptops at $500. Windows laptops in this price range won't have a comparable screen and will have worse battery life. They'll get hotter and they'll have a cooling fan.
  9. Understood. You can get away without port forwarding these days by using a service like Tailscale, but it requires people using your services to also use Tailscale.
  10. Like, running on your own hardware? Or running on a cloud server? Running on your own hardware, you'd want to run some sort of server-oriented operating system and run your individual apps in VMs or in containers. I use Ubuntu Server, but Proxmox is a pretty popular OS for self-hosting these days. Port forwarding is the much easier way to accomplish this. Subdomains you'd just set up in your registrar's DNS entries, or use Cloudflare as your nameserver and use their DNS. Probably easier to use the former, but if you want Zero Trust, I'd go Cloudflare. Though, it's not something I've ever used.
  11. For 800 euro you can buy an RTX 5070 Ti. There is no faster card for that much money as it beats out the AMD RX 9070 XT, which is €70 less. The 5070 Ti can play most games at 4K using DLSS upscaling. You can't get a faster card without spending €1,000 for an RTX 5080, or finding a high-end used card. Welcome to the forum
  12. I have a Samsung monitor with 1000R curve and I got used to it pretty quickly. It does suffer the issue that RTINGS notes which is concentrating reflected light to a focal point in front of the monitor, so I can't have direct light behind the monitor or it's distracting. But the monitor you listed here looks pretty great as far as reflections and brightness goes.
  13. I think it's all down to personal preference. I have a Samsung S95C and I get pretty bugged when I see reflections in the TV, but only when I'm watching movies or TV. During YouTube videos and games I'm not so bothered. I don't know if you have different eyes or something, because direct sunlight on my TV completely whites out the picture for that part of the TV with the sun rays on it (I have a south-facing window about 8' from my TV). I had a first-gen OLED monitor (that LG ultragear one) and returned it because it was basically unusable as a computer monitor in my kinda-bright bedroom. OLED monitors are better now, but not that much brighter. They're great monitors, just non-ideal for situations such as OP's. RTINGS mentions as much in their reviews as well as their glare tests.
  14. I will note OLED monitors are still not particularly bright—See RTINGS testing for this monitor vs. OP's existing monitors. The OLED monitor also does not have a matte coating.
  15. I don't see a budget, but I will give the best generic advice that the best GPU is the most expensive one you can afford, to a point. The 7900X could pair with a 9070 XT, 5070 ti, 5080, 5090... depends what is available and you are willing to buy. Graphics cards will go up in price this year, and probably soon. If you have $700 US, I'd at least get a 9070 XT, as it plays 1440p pretty well native and gets really high FPS with upscaling. The 5070ti is better but you'll spend more for the privilege. I wouldn't go cheaper than those two, if you can afford it. As for monitors, 27" 1440p OLED monitors are having their heyday right now. Great displays for great prices. Just make sure to get a newer generation screen as the older OLED monitors don't get very bright and might have text fringing issues (this is why I returned my first-gen OLED monitor a couple years ago). RTINGS has very comprehensive reviews to help you make a decision.
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