normpearii

For s. and giggles try updating your motherboard bios. I was having all sorts of issues with the AMD driver crashing and it turned out of be the last bios I installed, didn't install correctly. Secondly, does the 590 have DVI-I or are you using an active adaptor?

Nvidia is partnered with IBM's PowerPC9 with NVlink https://www.nextplatform.com/2017/12/15/nvlink-shines-power9-ai-hpc-tests/

Replace that power supply. I've personally RMAd 3 of them for out of spec voltage regulation (12 Volt rail below 11.4 volts on two of them, and 3.3v rail below 2.8 on the last, the last also being the one recieved from the 1st RMA)

There are multiple linux based boot disk you can run off a USB drive. I've personally used UBCD. There is probably something newer to use now-a-days, but I've had that on an old 4 GB USB2 drive for like 8 years now. Think I've even updated it a couple of times. HOWEVER, before you do anything else. Use either a bootable Windows or Linux USB to get ANY and ALL data you don't want to risk losing. If you suspect the drive is going, there is a chance running any test on it could be all it takes to make it unusable. You'd be best to backup anything you need, prior to any further testing with whatever time is remaining for the drive. You're best bet to find a replacement drive is to take the existing drive out and measure how thick it is in millimeters. Normally length and width don't cause an issue for the laptop's I've had, but none of my laptops would accept any of the older thicker SATA SSDs that were more than ~9mm thick. Though that's been on HP and Dell laptops for me.

Didn't he have a cat or something in there with him?

I knew it was a trap. Thanks for confirming lol.

How much of a drop are we talking about? I think the FPS loss for me with two 1440p displays is within margin of error (Less than 2 fps)(Game on single monitor in fullscreen or windowed fullscreen) in the games I play. There is a slightly larger drop if, say I have tab of youtube with a 60 FPS video open What resolution and refresh rate are both displays and what are you running on the second monitor while you're gaming?

As per page 32 of the manual on MSI's site. Slots 1 and 4 used together run both slots as x8

Right Click the Start Menu Icon, select "Power Options" near the top. Then on the right, select "Additional power settings" (If the Power window is smaller than this, the link will be below instead of on the right) Select Either High Performance or AMD Ryzen(tm) Balanced This has probably changed, but I haven't had an Nvidia GPU in 5 years: https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3130/~/setting-power-management-mode-from-adaptive-to-maximum-performance Also, have you done any overclocking on your CPU?

I would first suggest to verify that either Ryzen Balanced or High Performance Power Plan is selected.

Looks like a bad temp sensor. If you can still RMA it, then I would suggest just doing so.

You wouldn't happen to a case speaker? They're especially handy on motherboards that don't have one built on, or don't have a post code display.

What CPU do you have? Unless it's an APU, your top slot should have full x16 lanes.

You might want to look at the 2060 over the 1070ti. I was looking at upgrading today, and the 2060s are actually cheaper than the 1070ti.

https://www.pcgamesn.com/nvidia/how-to-enable-freesync-nvidia-graphics-card-gsync-compatible I won't have access til later to a 1070ti system to try it myself. So best of luck.

Wouldn't happen to remember a timeframe on that? I got mine 11 1/2 months ago near the end of last January.

Are you talking about the issues when paired with Vega 56/64?

Edit: nvm misread something

The Non-ITX X470 chipset boards will, for the most part, have at least x6 SATA 3 ports and two m.2 ports. Also, X470 has x6 USB 3.0(USB3.1Gen1) ports, vs B450 has x2. SATA ports are normally used by hard drives, SSDs, and internal CD/DVD/Blueray drives.

I went and got a Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750w when the RMA unit started to show signs of going too. (When it used to be tier 1)

All a PSU tester is good for is making sure all the rails at least still exists. Otherwise they don't tell you anything to tell the actual state of health of it.

So, how much do you want to spend so we can make better recommendations?

I don't recommend any Thermaltake powersupply that isn't on the high end. I've had x3 smart 750w ones recently, first one RMAed due to low 12v rail voltage even @ 1/2 load at 6 months, the RMA unit with a different serial number ended up doing the same thing 6 months later, finally the 2nd unit started doing the exact same thing a year later to system that doesn't even draw 300watts. Save yourself the future headaches and invest in a good tier 1 or 2 powersupply. Edit: Added note, the reason the second system had that power supply is I got both of them in a Black Friday deal for $77, they were normally around $80 just before that alone so I thought at the time it was a great deal.

Watch the first minute-ish. NIST defines the US Imperial Units in Metric Units. Thus this affects the US as well.

You can get a gallon of RainX for less than 3 USD at some places. Plus it is much easier to reuse. Just pour it into the washer fluid reservoir of a car.