Mattias Edeslatt

@Betherz16It sure could get hot if you are using the factory Acer case, easiest way to check that is to try running it without the side of the case on. And if you have a stock cooler or a generic one from Acer it sure could get noisy. Try running if with the side off and se which fan that is making the noise. I see that your CPU fan is going at around 2000 RPM which is a lot. You are focusing on the % of load for your system, and in games or active use that is nothing to be worried about. System load on CPU and GPU can reach 100% and it won't be bad for the system. Have you scanned your system for malware? And if you have som antivirus software can make the system lag if they perform a full scan in the background. Try to disable that and see if it makes any difference. And I would try to format your old drive, if the file-system got corrupted it is perfectly normal that a system restore wouldn't work.

Well, I'm going to be an asshat and say that you don't know much either and my guess is that your dad knows more than you based on your wining and language about your old PC that you obviously neither have paid for yourself. And Acer and custom built is two words that doesn't go in the same sentence. Adding more ram or a GPU doesn't make it a custom built computer. Checking your temps from HWmonitor says everything is fine, your current temp on the CPU is 30 degrees and your GPU is 50 degrees so the temps are perfectly normal. I am more worried that you have had four power-cords melting. That is not normal.... Why buy a new HDD/SSD if you have corrupted the file-system? Just format the drive and reinstall. The drive doesn't physically break because the FS gets corrupted. Try to use some humility next time, so you don't appears to be a spoiled kid that thinks he knows everything and grownups don't.

If you don't want to see ads on Youtube, buy Youtube Premium and support your creators you enjoy watching without any ads. Simple as that.....

Be sure to deactivate "power on after power-loss" in the BIOS. If that is activated a power dip/spike in the electrical system can cause it to start. Disconnect every external USB, leave the mouse and KB. Does the problem continue try unplug the mouse and KB also. Does it still persists try unplugging the network cable.

I would try with another SATA-cable and check that the power-cable for the drive is correctly inserted, they do just break sometimes and it could also be the reason for the bad sectors on the drive. Could try to change the SATA-power cable, but not until you have tried with a new SATA-cable and the problem persists. If I understad you correctly the problem went away when you disconnected the HDD? If yes, then the problem is one of these three, SATA-cable, power cable or the drive itself.

You don't need to reinstall anything. It is not a SW error as you have stated it goes black just after the POST-screen. If you unplug everything and all external devices like keyboard and other peripherals, including the network cable, and just have the RAM and GPU and obviously the CPU with it's cooler, does it start OK then? It would complain that it can't find a boot-drive but if it does that, it have passed the stage of whre it hangs. Then plug in the boot-drive. Does it still work? Continue that until you find what device that is causing the problem. It is not uncommon for USB-devices to cause strange problems, especially it there are some powered devices that can send the current backwards.

Basically it wouldn't. A HDD is plenty fast for this. But it could be that there is something that is creating constant activity on the drive and by this creating the stutter. Or there is some malware installed on the system that is creating the problem. Is there any antivirus software installed? It shouldn't create a problem, but sometimes they will. Try to disable that to see if that solves the problem.

Well, you are not going to make this mistake again What made you think that doing what you did was a good idea? You already had a working fan that you removed to plug in the "new" old PSU-fan. And why did you just plug it in at random not knowing what pins that should be used? I guess you thought that if it was the wrong pins the fan would just not spin and then change to two other pins, but in reality that meant that you created a short that took out the MB, most likely. I'm almost sure you could have found out what each pin is for in the manual for the MB, otherwise a quick search on the web or ask here would solve it for you. If you had asked the question about to connect a two-pin fan instead of a 3 or 4-pin fan you would be advised against it as it would always run at full speed and wouldn't be controllable via settings och programs.

If the drive is wiped, there is nothing left on it. But that doesn't seems to be the case. Try to use the right terminology, it becomes easier to help when we knows what really happens. Sounds like the file-system is corrupted as an result of the crashing system. Reformat the drive and reinstall and everything should be OK. A corrupt file-system also explain the longer boot-time.

How do you mean? GPU and CPU is just under 300 W power draw so anything above 400 W is enough to power that system. It could be a faulty PSU anyway, but not because of it is insufficient wattage-wise.

As John said, nothing is wrong here. But why did you assume it would have something to do with the RAM?

Does the monitor power on or has it no signal under the startup? You should get a flash-screen / POST-screen, and you say that now the boot-up takes 10 seconds longer, so apparently it is working but you don't get anything on the screen.

Did you install the motherboard correctly in the new case? Sounds like the there is something that is shoring out your motherboard, like some mounting standoff on the backside.

Why remove and reinstall the driver? It is the same driver for both the cards.

Drivers is not stored on the GPU. You need to start windows for the driver to even start loading. You don't need a driver to get display output.

Well, the latest supported driver for the GTX 780 according to nVidia is from 2019. The latest driver from nVidia doesn't support your card: GEFORCE GAME READY DRIVER Version: 511.23 WHQL Release Date: 2022.1.14 Operating System: Windows 10 64-bit, Windows 11 Language: English (US) File Size: 797.13 MB GeForce 700 Series: GeForce GTX 750 Ti, GeForce GTX 750, GeForce GTX 745 Latest driver that supports GTX 780: GEFORCE GAME READY DRIVER Version: 472.12 WHQL Release Date: 2021.9.20 Operating System: Windows 10 64-bit, Windows 11 Language: English (US) File Size: 722.87 MB GeForce 700 Series: GeForce GTX 780 Ti, GeForce GTX 780, GeForce GTX 770, GeForce GTX 760, GeForce GTX 760 Ti (OEM), GeForce GTX 750 Ti, GeForce GTX 750, GeForce GTX 745, GeForce GT 740, GeForce GT 730, GeForce GT 720, GeForce GT 710

That is not how uninstalling drivers works. Normally when you uninstall the driver, you don't loose display output. If there is no display output at all there is something else that is wrong, maybe related to the sudden problem with stutter when he moves the mouse. The big question is, how do you know your GPU is not "running"? Did the fan stop spinning? Then my best guess is that the GPU died and that the timing with uninstalling the driver is pure coincidence.

Have you read the EULA? I am sure there is a clause regarding this and that they are not liable. This is the problem with cloud-services and digital licenses, you are SAOL when they pull the plug....

Yeah, I had to read up on some of the features myself as I didn't remember them correctly I was sure of that there was something with HDD:s and partitions over 2 GB and FAT, but I couldn't find it.

No, from Windows 95 the DOS-version was MS DOS 7.0 and Windows ME had MS DOS 8.0 With MS DOS 7.0 you got support for VFAT that allowed filnames longer than 8.3 characters and from version 7.10 you got support for FAT32 and file-sizes over over 2 GB. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MS-DOS#MS-DOS_7/8_(as_part_of_Windows_9x)

Yes, Netscape Navigator Gold was fantastic, Netscape Communicator - not so much....

Ouch.... do you have HW-raid from the MB? This is exactly the reason HW-raid is a bad, bad idea. You are SAOL when the old hardware take a dive as you just can't plug those drives in a new system and go on, you need to use the exact identical HW to access the RAID-volume. With SW-raid it is just to change the faulty HW, boot up and everything is up and running. The worst scenario is that you need to reinstall the software and enable the data-set again.

Well, it is a workstation with Intels workstation chipset C602, you simply can't overclock (more or less) either the with the chipset or the Xeon-CPU. That is also why Intel XTU doesn't work, there is no support for the CPU. The only XEON CPU that is supported in the current version is Intel® Xeon® W-3175X Processor (38.5M Cache, 3.10 GHz), hell it won't even work on the most older CPU:s then the latest couple of generations. If it doesn't turbo-boost you need to check in the BIOS if that feature is disabled.

Well, the CLR_CMOS does exactly what you think it is doing. You have followed the instructions? The normal procedure is to unplug the PSU, clear CMOS, plug it in again and boot. If that doesn't work, there is a problem with the motherboard.

Then the question is if the pump is working so there is circulation? Yes, it is showing 3300 RPM on the motor, but is the impeller spinning?