Falkentyne

Does he have full control of his mouth and head?

There's a top tier Street Fighter player (plays SF6) that plays *WITH HIS MOUTH* in masters/diamond (yes) rank, because he doesn't have use of his hands.

he uses a playstation however.  His twitch is Brolylegs, if you want to know just what he is capable of.

https://www.twitch.tv/brolylegs

You (meaning, your friend) can also advertise on meetup.com for any computer builders in your area who can help you (him) with building a system.  If you have a car, it's extremely easy to meet in a public place, just ask in advance if you can borrow an outlet and make sure you patronize the shop if its a starbucks or something similar.  If you don't have a vehicle, however, things can get rather tricky when dealing with strangers.

This is the biggest troll thread I've seen in quite awhile.

Phones are essential now.

Not just for being able to CONTACT people when you need to contact someone (however, discord, SMS/call, whatever), sometimes you *need* to reach someone quickly.

GPS is also invaluable.  You can look where something is and know where you're going live.  If you have a car, you can have the maps update.  If you're riding a bicycle or on the bus, same thing.  Now you tell me right now you're going to be HOLDING a laptop on your bicycle while trying to ride and find a location and I'll gladly sell you some land in Florida, alligator and mosquito free.

Many places also require you to have a phone# as contact or security.  Not having one can make it difficult if they don't have a system for only email or "landline" voice calls.

I got my first ever phone (on low income support) in 2017.  Once I finally had one, I realized they are extremely valuable because that's how life is these days.  Comparing to how tedious things were in the 1990's for example, I'm very happy I have it.  

Do you have the soldering required version or no-solder version (newest)?  I believe the instructions are different for each one.

The newest ones require you to select "A" or "B" depending on if you have MEDA (A) or MHDA (B) type, with a switch under the thumbstick PCB, then after installing them and turning on the Steam Deck, you have to press a very small microswitch on the back (close to the select switch) which self-calibrates the hall sensor.

As far as SteamOS calibration (desktop mode), can't help there.

It sounds like the GPD Win Max 2 would be better suited for you than a Deck, but the Win Max 2 is MUCH, much more expensive; it costs as much as some basic Intel 11th+ 6+core laptops with Nvidia graphics.

You either have to do ebay or look on 3dfx fan forum sites (reputable ones) where someone may be willing to part with old hardware.  Many of these sites require X amount of posts or registration time, however

I kept a V2 SLI + Roland SCC-1 build sitting around for years, but got rid of it some time back because I realized I never even used it (except randomly to boot up some Midi tunes), and the sad realization that MANY of these games simply aged poorly, and unless you never played them before, there's just not much reason to replay them, with all the nice retro/indie/platformer games on Steam, and of course, the presence of emulators, to cut down on all the clutter.

I mean look at gems like "Abuse." (I don't even think this was a Glide game).  This game stood out years ago, as a unique form of metrovania + sidescrolling shooter, in a unique control scheme that hasn't been used often in that type of format, but it's hard to want to play something like that now.

18 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

I got my Omicron booster scheduled for this weekend. Looks like they are using Moderna. My previous booster was also Moderna, while my primary series was Pfizer/BioNTech. 

 

I'll be curious to see if this one knocks me on my ass as much as the 2nd Pfizer shot and the Moderna booster did. I opted to get my Flu shot at the same time, so we'll see how that affects it. Friends/family who did both at same time regretted it, but I figured might as well just get them done in one fell swoop. I'm a little overdue for flu anyway. I normally try for mid-October.

I got my third "updated" Moderna booster like 5 days ago.

Unlike the second one, it didn't knock me on my ass, but I sure didn't feel that great for a few days, but it was better than either the primary shot or the first two boosters.  Felt like "I got exposed to something" and I definitely didn't feel like myself but I managed.

This computer is as ancient as they come.  i5-2400...Yikes.

4 cores/4 threads...at least it has 16 GB of DDR3.  But you're going to have to upgrade this klunker eventually.

It should still be able to run windows 10, but I'm not sure what you intend to do with this computer.  If it's games, you're going to have a bad time if you are running anything newer than 8 years old.  (and the video card is probably equally bad).

I personally think you should get rid of that Seagate HDD and use it for a 2nd "data" drive only--and completely format it (slow format, not quick format) and check for bad sectors, etc.

You can get a very cheap 1 TB 2.5" SSD drive that will be much faster than that spinner.  Something like this won't break the bank.

And this will be much more reliable than the old spinner hard disk drive.

https://www.amazon.com/Timetec-800TBW-Speed-Performance-Internal/dp/B08GJCS69D/

Make sure you have a spare "SATA" data cable and SATA PSU power cable available.  You will have to set it as the primary drive or set your BIOS to have the Timetec drive as the primary drive.

Then prepare a windows ISO on your USB flash drive.  Any reasonably recent version of windows 10 will do (21H1, etc).

You can use a program called "Rufus" to install the windows 10 ISO on the flash drive.  You can use the microsoft media creation tool to create the "ISO" file directly.

Of course if you can't get windows running on this computer, you'll need to do this on a laptop or someone else's computer.

Then you just boot to the USB flash drive and have it install windows on there that way.  One way you can make sure it installs on the SSD is to disconnect the Seagate HDD (with the power turned OFF, OF COURSE!) and then turn on the system with only the new drive connected.

If you still end up getting BSOD's and crashes when installing on a brand new SSD, then you have a direct hardware problem.  Either memory, CPU or motherboard.

And on a system that ancient, it's not even worth trying to pay money to fix it, unless you know someone who can give you some Z170/Z270/Z390 or similar motherboard, with a Kabylake, Coffee lake or Comet lake CPU (Comet Lake is for Z490 and Z590 ONLY, btw, Kaby Lake for Z170 and maybe Z270, Coffee Lake for Z370 and Z390)--better to save up for a modern budget system (and you'll need a new PSU as well).

16 hours ago, Edward78 said:

Where is it? Incase I have to reinstall Windows, I don't have 2 install UT2k4 again.

< removed by moderation >

Anyway it's here on 64 bit windows:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Unreal Technology\Installed Apps\UT2004

If the game is installed previously and the cdkey disappears even though the game files are still there, you can re-add it by just making a string entry "CDKey" in that registry folder and entering in the entire key there, without dashes.

The Steam version may take a little more work, but the key "should" be in the same location.

https://steamcommunity.com/app/13230/discussions/0/810922320202540508/

On 9/13/2022 at 12:53 PM, mm_1994 said:

I'm confused, wasn't the 3060 released last year? Or are you talking about the 1060?

Yeah I meant 1060.  My laptop I bought in March 2017 has an 8 GB 1070.

On 9/13/2022 at 4:23 AM, venomtail said:

There were 3060's in 2016...?

 

VRAM is mostly for shaders and textures. Meshes and vertexes that most of the time are the ones rendering your stuff on screen take up very little VRAM, just computationally heavy. Just because you have a lot of VRAM doesn't mean your GPU is able to keep up with all the tasks of rendering. Lets create fake specs: I'd gladly take a 6GB 3070ti over some 16GB 1080ti.

And when you do start running out of VRAM, firstly just lower the textures. They disproportionally take up more VRAM than the rest of rendering.

Oops.  I meant 1060's.  But yes, 6 GB cards, and they were budget.

8 GB cards were the high end ones (GTX 1070 and 1080).

7 hours ago, mm_1994 said:

I want to buy a 3060 laptop but I'm worried that the 6GB of VRAM wouldn't last. I don't mind lowering settings or resolution btw.

6 GB of VRAM in 2022?  Avoid that.

Higher end laptops were shipping with 8 GB GTX 3070's (the value / performance king) and 3080's (high end, especially if you had the 200W versions!) and lower spec 3060's (3060's were 6 GB) back in **2016**!  That's 2016.  SIX years ago.

Why would you want to go backwards like that?

56 minutes ago, cladinshadows99 said:

Hello! I made a thread a while back concerning manufacturing defects found on several replacement Z690 Hero motherboards received from Newegg which I eventually got a refund for and bought from B&H Photo. Long story short, B&H photo had "normal" stock of the motherboard that didn't appear defective so I settled with my purchase from them. Anyway, I have decided to forgo my purchase of Alder lake so that I may finally upgrade my 9700k when Raptor Lake comes out, but I had a question. Considering that Raptor Lake will support LGA 1700 CPU socket, making my Z690 Hero compatible with Raptor Lake with a firmware update, how would I be able to update the firmware of my particular Z690 Hero without having to install a Alder Lake CPU in it first just to update the BIOS? Would I simply have to send my motherboard to ASUS to have them update it for me to support Raptor Lake? I appreciate any and all advice! Thanks!

You can update that BIOS without even having a CPU or memory installed.  Never heard of the BIOS Flashback feature?

6 hours ago, Wictorian said:

Lol I thought homecoming was a spider man movie.

 

Just ask her if there is not someone that she is supposed to go with she will 90% say yes.

I thought this was a thread about Silent Hill ....

On 7/11/2022 at 7:19 AM, Rym said:

 

 

Summary

 Due to an oversupply of used RTX 30 series GPUs, as well as board partners and retailers having too many GPUs, Nvidia is considering delaying the release of the RTX 40 series GPUs.

 

Quotes

 

My thoughts

 Well, how do I put this gently? 

 

That is entirely NOT my problem, Nvidia knew they were selling everything they had to miners, I called out mining 2 years ago as being a short term thing and it will come crashing down while I ignored the naysayers. All those used GPUs would obviously find their way on the used market, driving the prices down. I thought about getting an RTX 4080-4090 but now I'm also hearing Nvidia trying to cause an artificial shortage to drive the prices of their new GPUs up. Honestly I will now very likely go for an AMD RX 7900 XT especially since it's looking to release earlier than Nvidia gpus. I'm also hearing people will not be buying an Nvidia GPU due to pure spite of what they did for 2 years to their tried and true customers. AMD on the other hand doesn't have this oversupply issue since they never made that many GPUs for miners to begin with and are looking to release their GPUs very soon.

 

Sources

 https://www.pcgamesn.com/nvidia/rtx-4000-gpu-launch-delay-geforce-3000-oversupply

Good.  More time for me to save money instead of buying $1500 video cards for the highest gaming FPS.  My shunt modded retail HSF liquid metal thermal compound RTX 3090 FE will serve me well.  I can put the extra money and time into some Steam Deck games.

12 minutes ago, DairyProducts said:

nah no visible or smell-able burning

Never, ever, EVER move anything inside of a computer that has the power running on!  In fact, you should not only turn off the power, but disconnect the PSU (or flip the back switch) before doing anything inside a computer.

On 5/4/2022 at 3:48 PM, Digitalaether said:

So found out it was a dumb mistake on my part   I installed 32bit OS and not 64bit OS.

32 bit version of windows 10?  That's still a thing?  Yikes.

14 hours ago, atavax said:

I'm starting to budget for a new PC later this year. I'll probably buy a new CPU motherboard and ram as soon as the next gen comes out. There is certainly an argument for future proofing and that what convinced me to get 32gb with my current system which is about 5 years old at this point. And I guess the problem with having 32gb of ram is you don't know when 16gb of ram would have been problematic if you had not decided to get 32gb of ram. Has 32gb of ram been beneficial lately? Or is 16gb still enough for most end users?

If buying new for gaming, it's smartest to just get 32 GB.  Then you'll be set for awhile.  Even more so if you're getting DDR5.  Windows is using more memory as time goes on, not less.  You can get by with 16 GB, but just running two not too new games goes out of RAM immediately (Apex Legends and Overwatch at the same time and Overwatch came out in 2016).  64 GB is useless unless you are a content creator or render artist who actually needs that much memory, but you can do a lot worse than put 32 GB of DDR4 or DDR5 into an upgrade budget.

RAM is just like storage---it's better to have more than you need, than to run out and pay the price...

13 minutes ago, PapaBearr said:

Hi everyone,

 

I`ve finally built my first PC, however I`ve ran into some problems.

I can use my GPU only and only if I connect the cable to it, after I boot the PC using the on-board graphics.

If I don`t use the on-board graphics, I get the white Asus Q-led which is an error for VGA.

 

The GPU is fully seated, because once I boot up windows using the on-board GPU, and change the DP cable to the GPU itself, I`ve ran FurMark for 10 minutes w/o any issues.

 

I have tried the following:

 1 -> reset CMOS

 2 -> try 2`nd PCI slot

 3 -> Move the M2SSD to a different slot so that it is not on the same lines as the first PCI slot
 4 -> Change configuration of the PCIe in BIOS from auto to gen3 or gen4.

 5 -> This is where things get really strange. In the ASUS BIOS I have tried setting the primary display to PCIe, however every time I do that, and change the cable to my GPU before boot, I get the same white LED. Now, after I go for the on-board video and check BIOS, the settings get reverted automatically to CPU. I have tried setting it to Auto, and the same things happen. I`ve seen that other people encountered the same issue, and I tried a lot of bios configurations and nothing worked... Also, I have the latest stable BIOS firmware, so that should not be an issue. 

 

My build:
Motherboard-> ASUS TUF GAMING B660M-PLUS WIFI D4 
RAM -> Kingston FURY Beast 16GB DDR4 3600MHz CL17 Dual Channel Kit
PowerSource -> Seasonic Focus GX, 80+ Gold, 650W
GPU -> ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G
SSD -> HP EX900 1TB PCI Express 3.0 x4 M.2 2280

CPU ->  Intel Alder Lake, Core i5 12600K 3.7GHz

Any help would be more than welcome.

Thank you !

Try using the Nvidia Pascal UEFI patch tool.  I don't have the link.  Google it.

@WkdPaul is the J&J Vaccine safe as a booster?  I already had three Moderna shots and I'd like to try the J&J booster, but not if it kills me.  The first booster for Moderna didn't go exactly that well.

I don't want to make a mistake that will be my last.

On 5/4/2022 at 5:04 AM, Diddlydennis said:

That is amazing that this is possible.

Not really.

The Nvidia Geforce GTX 1080 MXM (laptop) chip, that was NOT "Max Q", was identical in performance to the desktop version, except for TDP.  Only the reduced TDP made the chip slower.  The MSI version actually had the full TDP (200W), making it almost identical to the desktop version, and there was a hardware mod (required a SPI flasher) you could do to give the full desktop TDP (250W) on it.  In fact, the MSI GTX 1070 MXM (laptop) version had more cuda cores than the desktop version, so if you did a hardware TDP mod on the MSI laptop version (125W to 230W), it was actually faster than the stock desktop cards.

Sadly, all the chips past this chip were all basically castrated chips (all of the laptop RTX Turing and Ampere chips are significantly slower than the desktop versions).

3 hours ago, FaceFoiled said:

Box itself: 2080TI
Side tracking label sticker: 3080TI
Contents: Plasterboard (drywall)

Congratulations.  You got shipped a P-P-Powerbook!

3 hours ago, mike5513456 said:

Thinking about repasting my GPU. I have a EVGA 2080 Super FTW Ultra that i have been running for about 2.5 years and was thinking about repasting as i was also going to repaste my CPU so thought i would do them in tandem.

Record the GPU temps when the card is new (and memory junction temps if the card supports that).

If GPU or memory junction and GPU hotspot to core deltas increased by 10C or more, in the same benchmark and exact same ambient temps from your first test, then repasting is a good idea.  In most situations, you need to repad and repaste together, but you need to make sure you have the correct thermal pad thickness (you can measure the original pads with a $10 micrometer caliper from Amazon, you don't need the expensive $50-$100 ones).

11 hours ago, liberteus said:

Thanks all for your replies, sharing this kind of knowledge really is gold. (and I mean it)

The absolute minimum hotspot delta is fused into hardware as a certain amount above core temp.  This depends on SKU, precisely.

On 3080 FE and 3090 FE it's exactly 10C.  On 3080 Ti FE, it's 7C.

On AIB cards, it can be as low as 6C, depending on exact card.

Usually you'll see the minimum delta when the card is at full idle, *with* the Nvidia power saving mode set at default (NOT at prefer max performance) and NOT with clocks/voltages locked with MSI Afterburner.

At full load, the delta will vary.  It's known that both the GPU Core AND the VRM's (NOT VRAM), report to the hotspot from various sensors, and the hotspot picks up the hottest reported temp among any of them.  On most cards, if the hotspot stays within 5C of the minimum delta for that SKU, then everything is fine.

A high hotspot delta (>15C) most often results from insufficient core to heatsink contact pressure or badly pasted parts of the core, especially on cards with thermal pad jobs done on them, where too thick thermal pads were used.  It's rare for a high hotspot delta to be caused by bad or too *thin* VRM pads (pads not making proper contact with the heatsink), but some people with stock cards have seen terrible hotspots, then took apart the card and found a completely ripped or missing thermal pad over the VRM's (mosfets), in which case it was the VRM causing the problem.

VRAM (memory) hotspots report to "memory junction temperature", not to "hotspot" temperature.

On 5/2/2022 at 10:15 PM, Ababba said:

BBS/Forums were the original social media. They can be better in that they are less targeted by bots/astroturfers so you are more likely to be engaging with real people.

You forgot about Millennial Discord.