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shibbs

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Everything posted by shibbs

  1. shibbs
    Are the fans actually pushing HOT air out of the radiator? Or is it just cool feeling? If your CPU is truly hot, the air should feel pretty warm coming off the rad. I suspect you're in a similar boat to me with my 4670K in that the TIM between the CPU die and the heat spreader is going to sh*t.
  2. shibbs
    I didn't even go that crazy on my HWLabs radiators, and haven't had any problems. Using Mayhems pastel fluid, and not having any dying issues after 5-6 months.
  3. shibbs
    Yeah, have him save up. 212evo with the stock fan will be a plenty good cooler as long as he keeps the voltage below 1.3vcore.
  4. shibbs
    If you're overclocking, I doubt it. Even without overclocking, you're gonna need some major fan speed (thus a lot of noise) to get decent temps out of them under load. You'd be better off with air, honestly.
  5. shibbs
    Well now you know your compression fittings are working! Glad nothing got damaged!
  6. shibbs
    The EK Predator will be your best bet if you really want the best 3x120. That being said, as much as it pains me to say "OK" to a Thermalfake product, the Thermalfake system is an Asetek pump and rad, and I've had extremely good luck with Asetek stuff in the past. You will have no issues if you do go with the ThermalFake.
  7. shibbs
    EDIT: EK's 90 degree fittings are made for attaching one end to a block/rad and the other end would require a fitting. If you want a 90 degree fitting with compression fittings on either end, Bitspower has some great compact options.
  8. shibbs
    I used both in my build. Never had a leak from either. The only fitting I've had leak is an Alphacool 90 degree elbow. I liked the Bitspower fittings slightly better fitment-wise, but the EK fittings look much better, IMO.
  9. shibbs
    Yes, this thing would be great. It would be perfect in my apartment since I'd be able to make use of the boring white walls!
  10. shibbs
    What CPU? What case? What budget?
  11. shibbs
    As others have said - just spraypaint the end tanks and sides, but leave the fins. As for the hoses, just sleeve them.
  12. shibbs
    Well guys, I just ran across this: http://www.streacom.com/news-item/db4-product-announcement/ Looks like fully passive is getting more popular.
  13. shibbs
    It's easier to bend. That, to me, is huge. Acrylic is much pickier than PETG temperature-wise. It's easier to cut and deburr.
  14. shibbs
    I've got a buddy running a super ghetto cooling loop in his PC. He's using literally the cheapest stuff he can find---I'm talking aluminum radiators, brass heater cores, (from his old racecar) nickel plated cpu blocks and regular copper blocks and a PVC 3-gallon reservoir. He's running green automotive coolant (50/50 premixed bottles) with a biocice and has no traces of corrosion a year later.
  15. shibbs
    As someone who just built their first hardline watercooled loop, I highly recommend buying a LOT of extra PETG. Like A LOT. Be prepared for a few days downtime. Do NOT try to get it all done in one night--you'll get frustrated and just make more mistakes. I also recommend to pick up a few 90degree fittings, for the really tight spots, and the really complicated bends you may have to do. I needed a few of them, and they really saved the day.
  16. shibbs
    Shows as $53.07 for me.
  17. shibbs
    Well, that depends. My graphics cards are the loudest part, unfortunately. I water cooled one, but the second will be liquid soonish. For reference: 2x LTT SPECIAL EDITION Noctua 140mm intake fans through 45mm 280mm Hardware Labs rad 1x iPPC 2000rpm 140 fan for intake on bottom (really helps with GPU temps) 1x iPPC 2000rpm 140 fan exhaust through 45mm thick 140mm Hardware Labs rad All the fans are less than 1000rpm at all times. And yes, good overclocks for everything. lol GPUs are at 1500 mhz, and CPU is 4.6 ghz. Wasn't quite stable at 4.7, and I didn't like feeding it over 1.3 vcore.
  18. shibbs
    I, too, have the R5. Set the radiator in the front to pull in fresh air. Then have a single airflow fan (140mm is best in that case) to exhaust air out the back. Leave the moduvents on the top. Have the PSU pull in air from the bottom (fresh and filtered), and out the back. This is approximately what I do in mine, and I get some pretty damn good temps.
  19. shibbs
    You'll really want SP fans. Think: You're pulling through the dust filter AND then pushing through the radiator. AF fans are going to choke bigtime. EDIT: If you do tack on some AF fans, I don't think they'll do enough to justify the extra power usage or trouble.
  20. shibbs
    I have a Fractal R5. Love it. And as stated with the Define S, just leave the ModuVents closed and you're fine. I, too, dislike vents on the top.
  21. shibbs
    From experience: EKWB HD fittings are fine. Like you said - very low profile. I use and recommend their HDC fittings. The compression oring really relieves some stress, imo, as it would just be that much less likely to leak, and helps hold the line in tighter if you end up having to move your computer around. As for the paracord, you'll have to "stretch" the paracord a bit to get it to be tighter to your cables. Kinda like one of those chinese fingertrap toys from forever ago, the more you pull the cord apart, it will shrink, but may not want to stay that small.
  22. shibbs
    Looks to me like insufficient pressure. Are you sure you tightened the posts into the motherboard properly?
  23. shibbs
    The US saves $100, too. Nice!
  24. shibbs
    Not 100% sure, but if you'd mount the radiators with the endtanks on the side, you should be good. If it'll fit 2x140mm fans, it'll fit a pair of 120mm rads.
  25. shibbs
    I posted about this a while ago (snatched mine up in April) and this monitor is GREAT. Yeah, it's not IPS. Whoopee. Great monitor, multiple inputs, and fast as hell. Definitely worth the money.
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