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About DrJones

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Battle.net
  • PlayStation Network
  • Xbox Live
  • Twitch.tv

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender
  • Interests
  • Biography
    I love two things in life (besides my gf); computers and flying airplanes
  • Occupation
    Corporate Pilot


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    Asus Rampage V Extreme
  • RAM
    Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 64GB
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1070 x2 (water cooled)
  • Case
    Corsair 750D
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 Pro NVMe M.2 512GB and Samsung 850 Pro 512GB x4 RAID 10
  • PSU
    Corsair ax860i
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PG279Q
  • Cooling
    Custom water loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB LUX Cherry MX Brown
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65
  • Sound
    Corsair VOID Wireless
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

1,156 profile views
  1. Hey everyone, Recently I tried using the calculator app in Windows 10 for work, and to my dismay, the + key on my Numpad wouldn't work. I had a Corsair K70 keyboard and thought maybe the key had gone out. I went to buy a new keyboard, and same issue. That one key will not input when I type. Not in chrome, and not here either. Surprisingly though, I ran a keyboard tester online, and it showed the key to be working. So now I'm thinking there was nothing wrong with my original K70, and instead I'm having some issue with Windows where I can't use my + in apps. All other NumPad key
  2. Paint the plastic covers all you want, but never paint the metal
  3. The C's should be closed-back, the SE's are a black version of the regular open-back. I have the SE's because I prefer open-back, but keep in mind, this will let outside noise in if you're DJ'ing.
  4. Well you've gone through all the steps I would then With your port forwarding problem, it can be a little tricky. Even though you've got the ports correct, the IP can be a little finicky. It's hard to figure out which IP address to use. For example, your IPv4 shown in the command prompt may be different than your public IPv4. So it can be confusing as to which one to use. Also make sure the ports being forwarded are being hosted on your machine, not another one on the network. Take for example, my default PC on my network is downstairs. But I want to port forward for a game I play
  5. Ah yes DisplayPort 1.3+ can do that, but DisplayPort 1.2 can only go to 60hz. What I meant was, that for some reason, they're taking a long time to implement 1.3+ in the monitors.
  6. You could try what I did, buy last year's model of HD598's. They are the exact same as the current year, just small changes in cosmetic design (i.e. logo placement) and you can get them for $100 less than the current gen.
  7. No problem! I guess you could say it's overclocked, but it comes like that stock. It has settings for 60, 120, 144, and 165hz. Just a simple menu button changes the refresh rate. I use 120hz mostly, and 144hz sometimes. I rarely use 165 because i can't tell the difference between 144 and 165 as much as 120 and 144. 4K monitors are currently limited to 60Hz because that's all the current cables can handle. G sync works perfect for me, just enable it in the Nvidia Control panel. I buy my Monitors in the store (Best Buy, Fry's, Micro Center, etc.) so that in case there is a problem, I c
  8. I'm just gonna throw this out there. I use a Samsung Odyssey, best decision I've ever made. $400-$500 depending on where you buy it from. Same display and resolution as the Vive Pro. Plays Steam VR games just fine, and can play oculus with third party software. There are no tracking issues with the headset. The tracking on the controllers has improved, and a better Bluetooth dongle for your PC can help alleviate the tracking problems all together. No lighthouses to deal with, plug in, windows recognizes it, and you're ready to go.
  9. Great to see another person that enjoys their Schiit around here ( I use a Fulla 2 also) You'd be correct in that the 50x's have a bad rep. The fact is, for their price, the quality is not all there. Don't get me wrong they are, especially on paper, a better headphone than the 40x's. Better frequency range, 5mm larger driver, and hit the bass department a little bit better. But the fact is it does a little bit of everything but not as well. Whereas the 40x's do a little less, but much better. For the price, I'd go with the 40x's, or find an alternative brand if you're looking at the h
  10. Hi again! I personally use a Corsair K70 with Cherry mx Browns (give you tactile feedback without the annoying click of Blues). I use their M65 Mouse also, has great weight to it and feels sturdy in my hand. Headsets are a whole other story. 'Gaming headsets' are all about looking cool vs sounding good; They all come with built-in mic's and flashy colors. I use a pair of hifi headphones with a separate microphone. (I'm sort of an audiophile) If you want the best 'Gaming headset' out there that doesn't sound like garbage, get a Sennheiser PC 373D If you want a decent mid-line gaming h
  11. Nobody really knows when the next standard is coming out However, I currently use 1440p at 144hz and love it. To me it goes as follows: 1080p = excellent performance, low quality 1440p = great balance of both performance and quality 4K = bad performance, excellent quality I haven't looked at the newest models of monitors yet, I use an ASUS PG279Q if I remember right. TN is still technically better response time, but it's negligible, you're not going to tell. We're talking a couple Milliseconds here. Plus IPS response times have improved. DisplayPort and HDMI are both great fo
  12. Brand: no, maybe just picture quality ( But this is mostly affected by the TYPE of display, hence why I recommended an IPS panel, not the brand) Length: Not at all, unless you're plugging in a bunch of extenders or going more than 25ft maybe
  13. Well, it seems like you know what you're doing, which is a great to start Network isn't really my forte, but I would say you need to figure out a way to isolate the issue. Figure out what is different about his PC or where it is plugged into, compared to the other 3. You've pretty much eliminated it being a hardware problem with his PC simply due to the fact that it works fine elsewhere. Try swapping the location of his PC with one of the ones that is working. Is his PC using a different outlet than the rest? Cable? Network switch? Try swapping all of these with a known working on
  14. No use in waiting for the HDMI upgrade. Display Port will support 144hz at 1440p. Unless you want to do 4K at higher than 60Hz, then you'll have to wait for a new standard. BenQ, ASUS, and Acer seem to make the best Gaming monitors. Pick one that suites your needs. I recommend an IPS panel (not TN), and since you have a GTX 1080, go ahead and grab yourself a 1440p display at whatever refresh rate you want. Side note: DisplayPort does just as well as HDMI, HDMI technically can do more, but a monitor won't be taking advantage of that.
  15. My PC is I guess around 2-3 years old now. Intel i7 5930K 64GB Dominator Platinum DDR4 (Overkill I know) 2x GTX1070's SLI Corsair AX860i PSU Custom Water Cooling So this problem only started occurring in the last week. It happens completely randomly. The computer will turn off like someone pulled the power, then automatically reboot into windows like nothing happened. The only critical error I get in event viewer is Event ID 41. I've run a memory test, RAM checks out OK The CPU clock has been set to Default Temps are WELL within margins (35-40C idle, maybe 60-70 under ex