Anarchyz11

I'm not saying Microsoft does or that the naming was on purpose. I'm just saying it's terrible so I'm not surprised people get confused.

Not surprising. Half the time I search for info on the system, I get stuff on the One X or One S

1080ti benchmarks about 70-75% of the performance of a 2080ti. If the 3070 is around the 2080ti performance, there's the gap.

DLSS 3.0 would be a huge selling point, so my guess is it isn't even close to ready.

Might try and ask EVGA for an extension. They have amazing support.

This is why we have to be really careful with leaked performance as well. So many people saying "3070 will have 2080ti performance" but I could easily see NVIDIA marketing that, but only in RTX since we already know ray tracing is a large part of the generational improvement here.

You'll probably be fine, assuming it's a decent 550W power supply.

Tell that to my office. We'll be using IE until I retire.

Like the other guy said, idle temps are tough to read into too much. If the fan is ramping up, core clocks are normal, and you're getting high temps at load too, the only thing I could say is proper contact to the heatsink. But since you already swapped coolers I assumed that wasn't the case. Or a straight up faulty chip but that's rare. 70c isn't unusual at all at load, especially if using a default fan curve. A sharp jump 10-15 degrees when going straight from idle to a task is also not unusual as there's a small period before the fan kicks in. As for your framerates - Impossible to tell what's normal unless we know what game you're referring to

Only thing I could think of is that your CPU cooler is plugged into a case fan header and isn't ramping up with load, or if it is correctly connected, isn't ramping up due to motherboard error. When the temp rises, does the fan ramp up or react in any way?

Good point, hopefully the non-flagship models stay in line.

Hoping those prices are incorrect. If they're right, that's a massive upswing in MSRP for NVIDIA cards from just 2 generations ago. Makes it really hard to want to upgrade my 1080. Was hoping to upgrade my 1080 to a 3080 at current 2080s prices.

There is no possible way to use your CPU and motherboard with DDR4. If you want to use DDR4, you absolutely have to change out both your motherboard and CPU.

I'd expect the 2000 pricing to continue. Especially at the higher end there's just no competition, and I doubt there will be.

If you're trying to keep it cheap, a 430W or 500W from a reputable manufacturer like EVGA, Thermaltake, or Corsair. Should be around $50. EVGA drops B Stock every Wednesday and often has their 500W for $30 if you reeeeally need a good deal.

Anything using a PCIe power connector is going to be too much. Find a card that pulls only from the PCIe slot and it MAY be okay. But a PSU like that is gonna be a dumpster either way.

Sorry I thought you meant this would be a new build. GPU stand helps for sure but it would only brace the card from the bottom. It could theoretically still snap upward if a bump is big enough.

I used to do week by week shared parenting so the struggle is real. I'd invest in an ITX build for ease of transport. If you really don't wana do that, just don't go too bulky and I'd keep the GPU box and straight up remove it each time I moved the computer. It's really the only piece that doesn't transport well. The foam insert someone else suggested is a good idea too.

My solution when I was in college was to have a desktop as my main driver, and a very low end small Laptop/2 in one for taking notes and taking to class. Even a used chromebook would work. I second the gaming laptop being a terrible decision to live with. I had a larger ultrabook freshman year. It ran hot, was big, had no battery, and just wasn't useful for class. A smaller laptop is easier to use for class, then a desktop for homework and fun.

I'm not changing what I said. It's still a straight up lower performer for gaming. That i5 isn't going to be a bottleneck here. The 1660 ti is still going to do about 5-10% better than a 1660s. Going from a 9400f to a 3600 isn't even going to be a margin of error change unless in very specific circumstances.

Objectively the PC "built" for his friend will perform worse than what the friend originally built. OP's build has a 1660 Super vs the original build with a 1660 ti. Sure, if the friend is editing, streaming, or doing something outside of gaming a 3600 (not a 3600x btw) would help, but given he's buying a pre-built he likely fits on the side less likely to do these things. So the second build costs $500 more for a probably better processor, an NVMe, a better but not needed power supply, and a downgrade in video card. It's an objectively worse build for what OP's friend wants to do and is much lower value any way you look at it.

And what did you think made your build any better than the one he spec'd out? It would have taken all of 15 minutes to do enough research to know his original build would have performed better than what you told him to get. You basically had him spend $500 to get an extra NVMe, a better power supply, hyperthreading and somehow a worse graphics card.

I feel like I pretty vividly remember part of the controversy with last gen consoles being that they weren't even high end at the time. Part of why both Sony and Microsoft ended up with higher performing versions so quickly.

Office shouldn't be giving a laptop a 90C idle, unless your fans just straight up aren't spinning. Most likely suspect is cooling isn't properly seated to the processor. If you want to go in and try and fix it yourself, you do you, but I'd send it in to MSI. Going lone ranger on it could void your warranty.

Did you buy it new? If so, it should be under warranty, I'd let MSI figure it out.