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About ApolloX75

  • Title
  • Birthday 1986-12-05

Contact Methods

  • Xbox Live

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    I tinker with various hardware; build boats; restore a classic (to me) car and drive a Camaro a lot. I do a lot of things.
  • Biography
    I worked for an engineering firm building large industrial line production robots. It was pretty awesome, but then became boring. So I went back to building boats. I'm an Electrical Technician by trade and an amateur mechanic as well. I have abandoned my stale marine career and have been invited to join a dealership team as an apprentice, we'll see how this plays out.

    I've been a computer tech both semi-professionally and amateur for the better part of a decade, and I built my first real gaming system in 2000 out of an Athlon Thunderbird and a Diamond Stealth 3.
  • Occupation
    Mechanic Apprentice


  • CPU
    Core i7 7700HQ
  • Motherboard
    Alienware 15 R3
  • RAM
    2x8GB DDR4 2400
  • GPU
    GTX 1070
  • Case
    Alienware 15 R3
  • Storage
    ADATA SU800 512GB, 512GB M.2, 256GB M.2
  • PSU
    Dell 240W
  • Display(s)
    Dell 1080p 60Hz IPS w/ Gsync
  • Cooling
  • Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Razer Atheris
  • Sound
    Logitech G933 Artemis
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro X64

Recent Profile Visitors

2,882 profile views
  1. Having grown up using them, I can honestly say... screw that. I hope they stay dead. CRT can stay in the past, all hail to my flat LCD panel masters.
  2. Says max 8GB in the specifications for both DDR2 and 3 so it should be safe to use 4GB sticks.
  3. Keep in mind also that some DDR2 boards do not support 4GB sticks. What board are you using?
  4. I had one of those boards back in the day too, never was able to find the expansion card even then. I can't imagine it would be very common outside of a collection at this point. But if you do find one, pics please, I'd love to see one working again.
  5. Higher the resolution the less of a bottleneck the cpu will be as the load is forced more and more upon the graphics card. You'd probably see some fun stuff happen at 1080p. PCPartpicker is pretty good at being accurate, they're quite trustworthy. You shouldn't have to use a second non UEFI card to get to the BIOS. The UEFI card will display the image regardless.
  6. Hypothetically yes that would make sense. I'm not really sure how the rating system works, could just be an overall quality metric since a board that old with a cpu that old will likely bottleneck a card like a RX 5700 to a greater degree than a slightly newer setup.
  7. According to this it is supported, but I can't find a lot of active use cases. And PCIE revisions typically are forwards and backwards compatible, I think the only time I've ever encountered a problem were HD 6xxx series cards not booting in PCIE 1.0 slots from time to time. If a 1080 works, then the RX 5700 should work too, they're both UEFI based cards.
  8. It should work regardless. I've used a GTX 1080 on an nForce 790i board with great success, and that's even older than your X58.
  9. I have six built Windows XP systems in my basement workshop right now for an upcoming classic LAN party. QX9650, 790i and GTX 580. Xeon X5450, P45TAD3 and GTX 260. Athlon 64 X2, A8R32-MVP and HD 4870. E6750, P35 and HD 5850. Athlon II 630, M4A785M and 7900 GTX. E4630, PT880 and 8800 GTS. I've just been spending my evenings loading up Windows XP, installing drivers and installing 30+ games on each one. USB sticks have made life so much easier than the old days of swapping discs and GOG has made it even easier. I'll take some pics.
  10. Well after some more tests the CPU works just fine, it's just an AsRock being a crap motherboard maker that's the issue. I installed Windows to a new hard drive using a different computer and then transplanted it and now it works fine. Still won't boot properly from USB but whatever.
  11. So I've got a conundrum with this little Ryzen system I'm putting together. It's a 2200G on an AsRock B450M-HDV with 16GB (2x8) G.Skill Aegis DDR4-3000 and a 1TB WD Blue. Just a cheap, simple little machine. So everything went together no issues as usual, it POSTs no problem, but it will not boot to USB without issues and won't let me install Windows 10 to the HDD or boot into Linux Mint on a USB stick, just black screens. I swapped hard drives thinking the Blue was no good and managed to install Windows 10 after a 5 hour wait but it would not boot into Windows after the install supposedly completed. I have already swapped the motherboard for a new one at the store, and the issue persists so at this point I'm wondering if the CPU is the issue. Thoughts?
  12. My laptop I use for work has an 8th gen i3 in it. Slow as hell in every task.
  13. There's nothing weird about that AMD CPU, it's an original Athlon. They are notorious when it comes to RAM compatibility issues. Even down to specific brands, speeds and timings. If it's an SD RAM board it's not so bad but the DDR ones (which this looks like it is) are nightmares to get working stable. There's a cult following to old hardware, mostly nostalgic people like myself who have been hanging on to their old system pieces for decades and are looking to expand or replace defective pieces. As a matter of fact my friends and I are having a LAN in a couple months based around Windows XP hardware only and early 2000s games. Which is a throwback for us because that's what we did from 2002 to about 2010 for fun.
  14. I have dealt with Dell Financial (in Canada) several times and they've always been excellent. Their interest rates are a bit high though, but they often have a clause that states if you pay it off in full within the first year you pay no interest, so that's always fun.
  15. Having experience buying batteries from third parties, I can honestly say it's 100% a crap shoot. You either get a fantastic battery that lasts as long or longer than the original, or you get a dud that lasts thirty seconds. Now both Parts People and the Amazon battery have one year warranty, so I'd say either one is safe to go with, but the Parts People one might be easier to deal with in the long run. Also both look like they are OEM batteries so I'd say you're relatively safe.