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About VioDuskar

  • Title
    Quote me for a reply.
  • Birthday 1994-03-20

Contact Methods

  • Discord
  • Steam
  • Twitch.tv

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    south, USA
  • Occupation
    A/V Field Engineer


  • CPU
    i7 7700K @5.1 GHz
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance white LED 32GB @3333MHz
  • GPU
    GIGABYTE Mini-ITX GTX 1070
  • Case
    Corsair 250D
  • Storage
    500GB NVMe M.2 Samsung 960 Evo
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNova 750 P2
  • Cooling
    H100i V2
  • Keyboard
    microsoft sidewinder x4
  • Mouse
    logitech m705
  • Sound
    Logitech G933 headphones
  • Operating System
    Win10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

2,580 profile views
  1. ------ ____ means DC power. as long as the voltages are you same, you should choose the power supply with the higher amperage. voltage must match, but if a power supply can give more amperage the device will only pull as much as it needs, no more. so a 5V 3Amp charger will be fine for a 5V 2 amp device. the device will only pull 2 amps. the laptop charger should work on the chromebook, but i'd be worried about the chromebook accidentally tapping into that 20V rail. probably fine though. I don't have much experience trying variable voltage chargers though.
  2. does your motherboard support plugging the GPU RGB header in directly? i would run the TT RGB controll and GPU RGB to the MB seperately, then sink them in software.
  3. that was a low-key joke. i was telling you to simply hide the folders and pretend they weren't there. i've got to get some sleep. i may think about it tomorrow.
  4. i've never had any issues with Vertically mounted drives, and exposing them isn't an issue either. it's not like you're going to be spraying grape soda in a fine mist all around the room regularly..... right? bare adapters seem to work fine for 3.5 drives. the power isn't an issue in a healthy drive. they'd be two seperate adapters, so even if you connected two at once you aren't increasing the power load on a single adapter, just maybe the USB bus inside the computer.
  5. with a new drive letter they should not be coming back. that should break any dependency. lol. have you tried... folderProperties>make hidden then unchecking "view hidden folders" option in file explore?
  6. is your plan to buy the motherboard by itself or the entire laptop? either way, as long as you keep your harddrive, the new motherboard should recognize it and boot up with everything loaded from before.
  7. buy some good paste, or get a good AIO
  8. thermal take makes one. I had a co-worker that used one of these for a long time. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/thermaltake-blacx-duet-hard-drive-enclosure-docking-station-black/9062073.p?skuId=9062073&ref=212&loc=1&ref=212&loc=1&ds_rl=1266837&gclid=CjwKCAiA8K7uBRBBEiwACOm4dwPgIY180YsbCur-aPh0tHKpSB8AliZU5IwTPe8O-PQp4UORnwQrvBoCPT4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I just use these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=asc_df_B00XLAZODE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309833041189&hvpos=1o10&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10416734729926178279&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011165&hvtargid=pla-343408325892&psc=1 But you'd need two, and two USB ports.
  9. no, don't do that. if you need more frames overlock first.
  10. WTF is that MiniTool you've used? you made your new drive E: now? and your old drive is letter G,H,J,K,L? anything except F:? why are your disks partitioned MBR? win10 uses GPT now. also, you were cloning drives before, there is no need to clone drives if it's not a Live OS. if it's just data in a file structure with no Registry, just move the filles over from the old 500GB to your new 1TB. no need to clone the 500GB to the 1TB.
  11. lol, that trick is some old VooDoo magic from Windows 98/XP so the Old SSD now has a new drive letter and when you delete the Programs/Download folders they still pop up? how fast do the folders get restored? immediately after reboot?
  12. are you using a USB hub? my Rift hates hubs. are you launching the game from within the VR or launching it from desktop directly? i'd suggest from desktop directly if you can.
  13. use microsoft's Download assistant to make a bootable USB drive, then go into your boot options and select your USB drive to boot to, then windows install should begin. your MoBo should have an easy UEFI that lets you just click the drive you want to boot to. if not, go to boot options, then change boot priority, make "removable media" the first boot device. (removable media may be named something else.) you may also need to enable legacy boot if you're trying to load an older version of windows. always use the USB 2.0 ports on the back of the MoBo, not 3.0 ports or Case header ports. you cannot boot Win7 or older onto an M.2 drive, as the installation media does not have the drivers to recognize the new hardware.
  14. every RGB control software seems really buggy right now. ThermalTake and GigaByte both suck and look terrible. i'm sure Asus's isn't much better. if the website doesn't have it, a newer, not buggy version probably doesn't exit. here's the link though. what version are you running? https://www.asus.com/campaign/aura/us/download.html