Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Donk Quixote

Member
  • Content Count

    385
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

About Donk Quixote

  • Title
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

911 profile views
  1. Well the only other thing I can think of is something that I have to do every time I add a BT dongle. Open Device Manager, under "Sound, video, and game controllers" right click your device and choose 'update driver' then choose "browse my computer for driver software' then 'let me pick...". Hopefully it will give you options. That is the only way I can change the driver for my BT dongle. I saw you wrote there wasn't anything under 'audio' of Device Manager, but it wouldn't be there it would be under the controllers.
  2. If your floor is hardwood, and the hallway and your roommates rooms are hardwood, every sound anyone makes is going to be amplified. Kind of like this. I've lived through that scenario with roommates before, it sucked. Other than installing shag carpeting everywhere not much can be done. I have a solution, but it's kind of ghetto, and not much better than putting a blanket over your door. You have to seal off the door. I tried this with my phone playing a loop of music right outside my door. The biggest reduction of sound was when I stuffed a towel between the gap of the door and floor. The next biggest reduction was when I laid a towel on top of the door, the next one was when I help a long beech towel on the side while I closed it. So I have a towen in the gap up top, bottom and non-hinge side. I wouldn't be able to fit a towel in the gap hinge side, but I could probably do it with a thin sheet. All three towel placement combine reduced the noise coming from outside the door significantly. The permanent solution would be to rap the door edges, door frame, or both in towels and nail them in place. You would want to cut the towels to size. After that I though about adding some sound deadening to the door, something like Dynamat. But that stuff stinks too much for bedroom usage.
  3. Since it's audio that suggests it might be something with the headset. Try things without it plugged in, and just for thoroughness do the same with the other components (one at a time).
  4. The wire connecting the front headphone jack is more susceptible to electronic interference and is usually worse. However one time I had a motherboard that fancy itself as a gaming board and the front headphone jack was connected to some kind of different circuitry than the motherboard connected jack. The front didn't sound better in terms of clarity and whatnot but it was able to better power my headphones at the time. Basically if you hear a difference you're losing sound quality, if not then you're not.
  5. Have you tried to get to it in Windows sound settings? On mine I got to "Playback Devices"-> Properties (of the device you're using, probably says Realtek something something)->Enhancements tab, then I check the "Enable Room Correction" box then hit the "More Settings" and it lets me change the volume and distance of individual channels. You can change the speaker size by right clicking the device and choosing "Configure Speakers", but only do that to make sure everything is set to full range speakers since the Logitech systems will take care of the that.
  6. FWIW every once in awhile the JBL LSR305 go on sale for $100 each $200/pair. I'd would wait till the price drops again and grab those. Otherwise the first suggestion with the Miccas and the amp is solid.
  7. It's kind of a pain in the butt to get behind my computer so it took a while, but eventually I did try this. No bueno. I did find a solution by going into the advance settings of Chrome and unchecking the "use hardware acceleration when available" box, but the playback was choppy. I then tried Microsoft Edge and 4k YouTube wouldn't even work. Then I tried FireFox and no problems so far, so I guess the solution is switch to Firefox. What super weird is I was able to get 4K @60hz with HDMI. That shouldn't be possible with the HDMI 1.4 on my 270x. Happy surprise.
  8. I have an I5 with a 270x connected through DisplayPort to a 4K UpStar monitor (a rebadged version of the Monoprice 4K monitor). No overclocking, no problems with my old monitor (or running this one at 1080P). I have in the past overclocked the frequency of this monitor to 1080P@100hz (maybe more, I forget) and I never had any problems at all, but now I only switch between the native 4K@60hz or 1080p@60hz. Whenever I stream a 4K video fullscreen when I go out of full screen my screen starts flickering with distortion. Oddly when I try to record a video of it the flickering doesn't show up. Than means that video and still picture of it looks the same, but the flickering is really bad, borderline nauseating. Here is a pic with distortion and here is one without distortion. It seems to be only streaming not playing a local 4K file. The fix I've found is to change the "GPU Scaling" settings in the Radeon Settings. It doesn't matter if it's changed from On to Off or Off to On, and it doesn't matter what the setting is before a video stream. It does this with both YouTube and other services that stream 4K (**cough** porn **cough**). Of course I'd rather not have to do this every time. I did update to the latest video driver, nothing changed. What do you think the most likely culprit is? Cable, card, Windows 10 or malware, cheap monitor, driver?
  9. I had an MPOWER Z87. I got a DGX because the motherboard jack was not powerful enough to drive my moderately difficult to drive set of headphones. Except for that one specific pair of headphone they both sounded the same. If your headphones get loud enough and there is nothing physically wrong with the on board sound (like crackling or whatever) then you don't need a sound card.
  10. If I remember correctly there is an option in the system settings under sound to turn 'optical/SPDIF out' on or off. Make sure it's turned off. Double check the connections, unplug the PS2 for at least 30 seconds (or if it has a hard reset button do that) and try it again.
  11. THX is a certification for audio and video products. They are supposed to meet certain criteria for sound range, color ratio..... OK I'm making those terms up. But basically if something (be it a TV, reciever, or speakers) is THX you can count on it being pretty nice. Doesn't mean there aren't better things for the same money, it just means it won't suck.
  12. I use the follow for gaming, music, movie, anything and it's awesome - CSR 8510 BT dongle, MPOW 4.0 BT reciever, and the SHP9500. This would also work with the V-Moda Crossfade, Fidelio X2, Mad Dogs, and I'm sure I'm missing others but whatever has a removable cable with a standard 3.5mm jack. Range when connected to the dongle is under 10 ft, but when connected to my phone or laptop it's closer to 30. No issues with sound delay or anything like that. I really can't tell a difference between that and wired.
  13. I imagine it's identical to my SHP9500. I was able to get HM5s on there without too much trouble. Here's a video of a guy doing it with different pads. The only thing I did differently was instead of using a 3d printed ring or whatever I just used electrical tape around the outer lip so there are no semi sharp edges that might right the pads.
  14. It's not the music coming from the headphones, it's an electrical signal. If you look on the player there's 'audio in', 'audio out', and 'electrode'. In other words it probably does something. But it's more like those 'ab machines' that electronically stimulate your ab muscles. They work but not really as marketed (they aren't going to give you a 6 pack). I bet if you like a 9 volt batter you'll get the same sensation.
  15. Some of the pads were glued on at 4 points I image you pull them off just like any other pad, but if they are glued then pull with a little more force (as gently as possible of course). I wouldn't recommend cutting if you can avoid it because of the excess material left behind.
×