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Donk Quixote

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Everything posted by Donk Quixote

  1. Well the only other thing I can think of is something that I have to do every time I add a BT dongle. Open Device Manager, under "Sound, video, and game controllers" right click your device and choose 'update driver' then choose "browse my computer for driver software' then 'let me pick...". Hopefully it will give you options. That is the only way I can change the driver for my BT dongle. I saw you wrote there wasn't anything under 'audio' of Device Manager, but it wouldn't be there it would be under the controllers.
  2. If your floor is hardwood, and the hallway and your roommates rooms are hardwood, every sound anyone makes is going to be amplified. Kind of like this. I've lived through that scenario with roommates before, it sucked. Other than installing shag carpeting everywhere not much can be done. I have a solution, but it's kind of ghetto, and not much better than putting a blanket over your door. You have to seal off the door. I tried this with my phone playing a loop of music right outside my door. The biggest reduction of sound was when I stuffed a towel between the gap of the door and f
  3. Since it's audio that suggests it might be something with the headset. Try things without it plugged in, and just for thoroughness do the same with the other components (one at a time).
  4. The wire connecting the front headphone jack is more susceptible to electronic interference and is usually worse. However one time I had a motherboard that fancy itself as a gaming board and the front headphone jack was connected to some kind of different circuitry than the motherboard connected jack. The front didn't sound better in terms of clarity and whatnot but it was able to better power my headphones at the time. Basically if you hear a difference you're losing sound quality, if not then you're not.
  5. Have you tried to get to it in Windows sound settings? On mine I got to "Playback Devices"-> Properties (of the device you're using, probably says Realtek something something)->Enhancements tab, then I check the "Enable Room Correction" box then hit the "More Settings" and it lets me change the volume and distance of individual channels. You can change the speaker size by right clicking the device and choosing "Configure Speakers", but only do that to make sure everything is set to full range speakers since the Logitech systems will take care of the that.
  6. FWIW every once in awhile the JBL LSR305 go on sale for $100 each $200/pair. I'd would wait till the price drops again and grab those. Otherwise the first suggestion with the Miccas and the amp is solid.
  7. It's kind of a pain in the butt to get behind my computer so it took a while, but eventually I did try this. No bueno. I did find a solution by going into the advance settings of Chrome and unchecking the "use hardware acceleration when available" box, but the playback was choppy. I then tried Microsoft Edge and 4k YouTube wouldn't even work. Then I tried FireFox and no problems so far, so I guess the solution is switch to Firefox. What super weird is I was able to get 4K @60hz with HDMI. That shouldn't be possible with the HDMI 1.4 on my 270x. Happy surprise.
  8. I have an I5 with a 270x connected through DisplayPort to a 4K UpStar monitor (a rebadged version of the Monoprice 4K monitor). No overclocking, no problems with my old monitor (or running this one at 1080P). I have in the past overclocked the frequency of this monitor to 1080P@100hz (maybe more, I forget) and I never had any problems at all, but now I only switch between the native 4K@60hz or 1080p@60hz. Whenever I stream a 4K video fullscreen when I go out of full screen my screen starts flickering with distortion. Oddly when I try to record a video of it the flickering doesn't s
  9. I had an MPOWER Z87. I got a DGX because the motherboard jack was not powerful enough to drive my moderately difficult to drive set of headphones. Except for that one specific pair of headphone they both sounded the same. If your headphones get loud enough and there is nothing physically wrong with the on board sound (like crackling or whatever) then you don't need a sound card.
  10. If I remember correctly there is an option in the system settings under sound to turn 'optical/SPDIF out' on or off. Make sure it's turned off. Double check the connections, unplug the PS2 for at least 30 seconds (or if it has a hard reset button do that) and try it again.
  11. THX is a certification for audio and video products. They are supposed to meet certain criteria for sound range, color ratio..... OK I'm making those terms up. But basically if something (be it a TV, reciever, or speakers) is THX you can count on it being pretty nice. Doesn't mean there aren't better things for the same money, it just means it won't suck.
  12. I use the follow for gaming, music, movie, anything and it's awesome - CSR 8510 BT dongle, MPOW 4.0 BT reciever, and the SHP9500. This would also work with the V-Moda Crossfade, Fidelio X2, Mad Dogs, and I'm sure I'm missing others but whatever has a removable cable with a standard 3.5mm jack. Range when connected to the dongle is under 10 ft, but when connected to my phone or laptop it's closer to 30. No issues with sound delay or anything like that. I really can't tell a difference between that and wired.
  13. I imagine it's identical to my SHP9500. I was able to get HM5s on there without too much trouble. Here's a video of a guy doing it with different pads. The only thing I did differently was instead of using a 3d printed ring or whatever I just used electrical tape around the outer lip so there are no semi sharp edges that might right the pads.
  14. It's not the music coming from the headphones, it's an electrical signal. If you look on the player there's 'audio in', 'audio out', and 'electrode'. In other words it probably does something. But it's more like those 'ab machines' that electronically stimulate your ab muscles. They work but not really as marketed (they aren't going to give you a 6 pack). I bet if you like a 9 volt batter you'll get the same sensation.
  15. Some of the pads were glued on at 4 points I image you pull them off just like any other pad, but if they are glued then pull with a little more force (as gently as possible of course). I wouldn't recommend cutting if you can avoid it because of the excess material left behind.
  16. I would not recommend the Yeti. I say either get a USB mic in the $50 range (my CAD U37 has served me well) or spend $150 and get an audio interface with an XLR mic (watch this video for more info). My logic is the reason you would spend $100 on the Yeti vs $50 is because of quality. But if you really cared about quality it's best to get an audio interface. Plus some audio interfaces (like the Scarlett 2i2) are capable of powering headphones like the HD598 and K712, more so than most motherboards. So you get a capable headphone amp at the same time. But really I would get that
  17. My MSI MPOWER Z87 board sounded really good (just not loud enough). My super cheap ECS mini-ITX board sounds bad. So it depends on the board.
  18. The only sound card I would recommend is the Xonar DGX for under $40. I got mine for $30 because the motherboard jack wasn't capable of driving my moderately difficult to drive headphone properly. If you are going to spend more than that then get an external solution. Internal sound cards are susceptible to internal electronic noise interference. If you need a mic jack then get a well reviewed one from Asus or Sound Blaster that has the functions you need. Otherwise get a headphone amp + dac combo that's marketed toward audiophiles. My personal recommendation is the Micca Orige
  19. I'm speaking in very broad strokes, but the bigger the speaker the better it sounds. So a set of $200 5" bookshelf type speakers will usually sound better (and get louder) than a $200 set of 2.1 speakers. However since the 2.1 has a sub it will have better bass. I would recommend getting larger bookshelf type speakers then getting a sub later if you want. Then there are active (self powered) and passive speakers. Passive speakers need an amp. All 'computer' speakers will be active and don't need an amp, which of course is the main advantage they have. The main advantages for
  20. In the meantime you could get this DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter (and as of right now there's no other game in town, you need that specific one to get 4k@60hz). For some reason it's really popular and been on backorder for at least a week (when I ordered it). But don't get your hopes up. I've read through all 70 reviews in preparation for buying a 4K TV. The most common incidents where it didn't work were with the Vizio M series. A firmware update came out at some point, and a couple owners of Vizio M series TVs said they got it to work under very specific configurations
  21. You can't get more than 30hz at 4k with the 290x, so another card won't be helpful. That reason is all current AMD cards are HDMI 1.4. Only the Nvidia 9xx cards are HDMI 2.0. If you have the patience I would wait. The new AMD Polaris architecture is going to be amazing, about 2.5x the performance per watt vs Maxwell. Not only will $200-$300 buy a lot more power than it would as of this moment (I think, who knows what the pricing strategy will be), but the will all be HDMI 2.0.
  22. This guy makes custom cables and is recommended by this guy (his endorsement is somewhere in the middle of the video for a couple seconds, I just linked it to show it's a real guy saying good things about him).
  23. If you sub has 2 RCA ins and you have it plugged into the one that says "line level in" you could try and get a Y cable adapter so you could plug into both RCA ins.
  24. Get the SHP9500 and the VModa BoomPro mic, perfect wired headset. Then get the MPOW 4.0 Bluetooth reciever and if your setup doesn't have bluetooth, but up a CSR 8510 bluetooth dongle/transmitter. When you want wireless unplug the BoomPro and plug in the MPOW. The MPOW does have a mic that's total crap but good for emergency use. I use the SHP9500, MPOW, and 8510 dongle almost everyday and it's flawless, I can't tell a difference between wired and wireless with it. In fact it sounds better than my laptop headphone jack, so it's better than wired in some cases.
  25. That TV has a digital out that you could probably plug into your speakers with a SPDIF cable (assuming they are computer speakers and not passive speakers). Usually it outputs 2.0 PCM from there, but sometimes it's 5.1 passthrough. If that doesn't work then you need a cheap $15 external card. Personally I would only go with 2.1 if space and speaker placement were a limiting factor, I would let $15 stand in the way of 5.1 vs 2.1.
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