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Everything posted by kevinisbeast707

  1. So I was searching for argb strips on amazon and came across this wonderful page... I was thinking that somehow it was just a page problem but apparently on their official store, all but three of their case accessories show up as Crayola. 10/10 would be confused again. https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/A70ED8E1-3AAD-4B11-8273-838AAA5469E7?ingress=2&visitId=ccd7969b-886d-41e4-8949-4164a3ec4b39&ref_=ast_bln
  2. Hmmmm. I'm probably going to have to say that for me it's a solar charging battery bank that I got for my birthday from my girlfriends parents. It would take so long to recharge it using just solar that it isn't worth it to do so, but since it's so bright in my room during the day, I can just leave it on my desk and then I never have to worry about it losing charge as it's constantly being topped off.
  3. Yeah. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better value overall. Also it's nice only having one single thing on your desk instead of two with cables connecting them.
  4. So, a very simplified version is that, for the most part, anything that has a signal to noise ratio of over 96db will be good enough to play back everything that a 16 bit music file has to offer. This is "cd quality" and is probably what you should be aiming for. 24 bit is really useful for if you want to use digital volume control like the windows volume to control the output volume since you won't lose data until a very low volume. Crosstalk is more or less the amount of noise that will leak from one channel of the headphone to the other unintentionally. -67db is a pretty fine number and while a lower db is always preferred, most "cheaper" amps are around this figure. The schiit mangi 3/+/heresy is only "-70db or less". all of the other measurements are over -100db which is perfect and exactly what you're looking for. After 100db it becomes very difficult to discern a difference in distortion and noise artifacts with the types of headphones that you and I are using for listening. After 120db the differences are basically inaudible to the human ear. Output impedance determines both the volume output and the frequency response you'll get out of your headphones. in general lower is better and you want to have something like an 8 to 1 or a 10 to 1 ratio between the impedance of your headhones and the output impedance of your amplifier. So for the k712 at 62 ohms, you'd want an amplifier that has an output impedance of less than 6-7 ohms. Anything higher than this will change the sound signature of them and make them slightly quieter. One of the benefits of having a higher output impedance is that when you use iems that have a very low impedance and are very sensitive, you can still use the same amplifier since the relatively higher output impedance of the amplifier will reduce the loudness of the iems. As for power, I don't know that I've run into any reason to go above 1 watt of power output. I have the Sennheiser hd6xx and with my magni 3 I have never had to take it out of low gain and the volume dial is usually near or below the 8 o'clock position.
  5. I haven't been able to find any direct comparisons either. However I was able to find JDS's spec sheet for the original one and if they were as honest back then as they are now then it looks like it will still be competitive today. The element 1: https://blog.jdslabs.com/2015/06/introducing-the-element-by-jds-labs/ The element 2: https://jdslabs.com/product/element-ii/ There are some good comments on this thread about the v1 vs v2: https://blog.jdslabs.com/2019/11/jds-labs-element-ii-official-release-benchmarks/
  6. The element 1 looks like a really good deal but it doesn't have optical input. The topping dx3 pro v2 is a great combo unit as well but what worries me is that they boosted the output impedance from the v1 so it's now 10 ohms. From looking at the phase measurements of the k712, it looks like that may make it sharp.
  7. Ah that's unfortunate. And yes that is a pretty good combo. But if you have to have optical in then it might be worth it to go for the d30 and wait or to see if the modi 3 will come back in stock.
  8. Do you need optical in? If not then the Topping d10 is a good dac otherwise. The JDS labs atom is incredible and I would probably go with that, a magni heresy, or an objective 2. I personally use the Schiit modi/magni 3 stack and, while I find that the magni 3 actually has too much power, the dac is amazing. I don't know how pricing would work out for you but you could also always try something from Massdrop. They have their objective 2 amp and grace sdac which is also a very good combination that, at least in the states, is cheaper than a schiit stack.
  9. If you never want to overclock then the 3600x could be worth it. If you think you might upgrade to something better within the next year or so, feel like you might overclock the processor yourself, or are running a gpu lesser than probably an rtx 2060 super then the 3600 could be more worth it. The way Linus does it is to take the difference in prices between what your entire computer setup would be with and without the more expensive chip and see if the percentage difference is similar to how much more percentage wise you'd be spending extra. ie: let's say that your entire setup would cost $600 with the 3600 and $630 with the 3600x. So you would take $630/$600=1.05 which means that in this instance the 3600x would make your build 5 percent more expensive overall. Now you take the games or apps that you'd like to use and try to find some benchmarks for them. If in this example it performs more than 5 percent better in games that you play then it is worth it to get the 3600x. If it is under 5 percent then you are paying for diminishing returns and it is then up to you if the smaller increase in performance for the price is worth it.
  10. In this game in particular I haven't seen a compelling reason not to use dx12. Maybe it'd make a difference on a dual core
  11. Until I just read that I had completely accepted that they would just thermal throttle and not that they would only run at pcie 3.0 speeds... I think it's time for me to go to bed.
  12. Just to put in my two cents as someone with a clc tr4 build, the only time I've ever had a leak in any of my clc builds had been when I cross threaded a fitting into an ek acrylic block but I immediately felt the cross threading and I decided to try it out anyways after threading it correctly. Long story short I ended up getting a copper/nickle block top and I've never had any issues in this department since with soft tubing.
  13. Decided to go big or go home. Brought my girlfriend along so I built a micro atx Threadripper 1900x system with 32GB of ddr4 that I split into two gaming vm's using Unraid. My half of the system gets an rtx 2080 and her half gets an rx 480.
  14. Yeah you are really close to a 7700K which should even be better in games for you.
  15. Yes because it will turbo higher than usual since you're allowing it to not power throttle as much.
  16. That has about summed up my experience as well. With my G7 I never had usb power delivery issues but I also didn't observe a large temperature difference since the G7 was just taking that extra thermal headroom and boosting to the limits of that default voltage curves power limit. What I have come to respect in the months since then is that Rise of The Tomb Raider is brutal on hardware and incredibly good at finding weaknesses in overclocks. On my desktop I have been able to play every other game I own for hours and hours on end with a gpu overclock on a 2080 at +160Mhz but the moment I try to play ROTTR I have to drop the clock back to +140 otherwise it crashes every time. Does the same for cpu overclocks though for memory I find cinebench does a fine job for generally finding really bad overclocks and timings.
  17. Honestly you'd probably still be fine going with something like Noctua's U12. The d15 will perform better and be quieter tho. Saving money with a Coolermaster hyper 212 silence which is black and pretty quiet and is quite a bit cheaper.
  18. I'd honestly follow @LukeSavenije 's advice on part selection. You're going to be getting a lot of benefit from dropping down to a 2700 instead of the x variant and then opting for a Radeon VII or rtx 2080. Also of note is that nzxt's h500 sucks for airflow which will impact your gpu in your case pretty harshly. His system layout for you is much more balanced. If unfortunately you have already bought your case then you're going to want to use nzxt if you already have some of their rgb stuff. Otherwise corsair is better. Link to gamers Nexus nzxt h500 review:
  19. The virtual machine wont even boot. This is not a windows environment.
  20. Alright so for background, for LTX my girlfriend wanted to go with me but she doesn't want her own gaming computer because she lives in a dorm and is lame. So i decided that I would sell my mini itx gaming machine and build a micro atx virtualized gaming machine instead. So what I'm rocking right now is a Threadripper 1900x on an Asrock X399m Taichi motherboard with 4 dimms totaling 32 Gb of ram. Where I've been running into problems is with my graphics cards. I have an rtx 2080 and a 4gb rx 480. I have so far been able to get my rx 480 to boot absolutely fine into a virtualized instance of Windows 10 using Limetech's Unraid. Where I run into problems is with Nvidia's usb controller built into their higher end cards for their virtual reality link. It kept throwing up errors at me about it not being able to separate it from the rest of the card even though I would be selecting it to add with the card. I gave up and decided to ask a friend if I could just borrow one of their rx 480's instead for the trip and temporarily trade him my rtx 2080. I have not however tried ACS override in Unraid though because somehow I missed that. I have also heard that you have to add and edited nvidia vbios if you want to use it as your main graphics output for Unraid and that there is some trickery involving making the driver not think it's virtualized. I have also heard that amd cards work fine out of the box for both of these. Since my system is entirely custom liquid cooled except for the rx 480, would it be better to just use the rx 480 as my first gpu and put the 2080 in another slot or will it be the same level of difficulty? Or am I better off just temporarily changing my loop and using two rx 480's instead?
  21. I use mayhem pastel white and I only have my computer on for about 6 hours a day and sometimes I wont turn it on for a few days and it's fine. But for extended vacations I give my computer to my friend and just tell him to turn it on for a bit every day. When I had ek clear cryofuel I never really had to worry about anything since there was nothing to keep suspended in the liquid. If you have a clear fluid then you pretty much don't have to worry about anything except yearly or so maintenance.
  22. As mentioned above just lay your computer so that the block is parallel with the floor and the fittings come straight up then it should fill the entire block. It's not meant to have a ton of flow up there so it wont fill up by itself since the air is working against you there.
  23. Nope. Corsair has their own proprietary system, nzxt has theirs, and then thermaltake has their own also separate one.
  24. Along with the thermal paste replacement mentioned above, might I point you in the direction of undervolting. Here's a thread with a few people with 8750h cpus that have tried undervolting
  25. Based on the picture of the rev 2 it looks like the picture it looks like EK is showing pictures of the v1 on their website then... The v2 looks kind of like the spc60 pump res combo I have but that doesn't have the g1/4 port on the top. Do you know if they discontinued the v2 or something? Or have it rebranded under vector or something stupid? You would hope people would get better over time with articulating their product design but ?.