klh2000

what would you suggest then for something to do the cad/3d modeling? I'm not going to be playing games with it. I can go a little higher on the budget if need be, but i'd really like to stay under $700

So I found an Asus laptop for $750, has SSD, HDD, Ryzen 3550H. I just can't seem to find all that much info about it? seems like it's just released or something. https://www.newegg.com/black-asus-tuf-gaming-fx505dd-gaming-entertainment/p/2WC-000N-00GH5

I've been out of the loop when it comes to hardware for a few years now, so I'm not sure what is considered good these days. I'll soon be a mechanical engineering student, so I will need a laptop for college. I'm in the US. - Budget is $700 ish - I will be running Autodesk Inventor, Solidworks, as well as editing video occasionally. I will not really be gaming on the laptop very much as I have a desktop for that. - Dedicated GPU would be nice, and at least 8gb of ram. - SSD only or SSD + HDD would be ideal - minimum 15" 1080P screen. It doesn't need to be color accurate, touchscreen or anything. - I'd like at least 5 hours of battery life as well, but not sure what to expect out of laptops these days, I've never expected more than 2 hours before. The best thing specs-wise I think I have found is the Asus K570ZD, but many reviews seem to mention build quality issues and networking issues. Any input on that?

The 4.3 in the S10 will be very reliable, but forced induction on that would be more trouble than it's worth. The Lexus would be much better for your type of driving.

Only my subscription feed is down. I can search for videos and watch them.

The Supra will be cheaper to maintain, and be more reliable, but will cost a lot more than the rx7 to buy. The 6 speed twin turbo supra will be the most expensive, but will also hold it's value, they are appreciating right now. The Supra has more potential to make power if you don't want to spend lots of money.

3-4 thousand isn't that low of a budget depending on your location. You can definitely get a nice Honda Civic or Corolla for that price. You would want newer than 2005 for a Corolla, the older 1.8 had some issues. I would get a manual if you know how to drive one, they are simpler, and it is easy to tell if something will go wrong before you buy (a mechanic would be able to tell). Automatics can be a little more iffy if you don't know the history of the car.

Air chisel

They are the same truck basically. I'd go for which ever one was in better shape. They both probably use Rochester TBI for the fuel injection, which is about as simple as it gets except for carburated.

Sounds like any opposed twin I've ever heard.

You will pass emissions as long as your state only uses an OBD2 emissions test such as NY, as long as the converters are still on there will be no difference in emissions, just noise. Some states with more strict inspections it will probably fail visual inspection unless you find a shop that doesn't care.

The default pin code on many Bluetooth devices will be all zeros, so try 0000 as the pin.

9/10 - One of my favorite chicago tracks

1. PC power button 2. Receiver power button

I would try the factory head unit with the new speakers first

Those speakers should work with the factory amp, the output wattage of the amp doesn't need to be the same as the maximum wattage of the speakers. You usually want to have an amp that has a higher wattage than your speakers, it allows for some head room. The only issue you might run into with the factory amp is that it was most likely tuned for the factory speakers, so it may not sound all that great with something aftermarket. Adjusting the treble, mid, and bass on the stock headunit should help.

Why are you wanting to get a new car? Your current car seems like it would be fine, and it is a Toyota just so you know.

It may not be the speakers causing the distortion, that amplifier could be clipping. The class d amps in most head units will start to distort once you reach their maximum output level. A more powerful amplifier with less than 1% THD at maximum power output might help.

Unless you bypass the rectifier and regulator on an automotive alternator, it's going to put out 13.8 or 14.4 VDC. Most alternators on cars are rated at 70amp output, some are more. So a smaller alternator can produce about 980 watts. That should be plenty for running most computers, assuming that you don't have anything else connected to the alternator. The safest option would be to use a pure sine wave inverter to convert the 12v to 120/240v for the computer's power supply. This is inefficient because you would essentially be converting 12v -> 120/240 -> 12v/5v/3.3. there are some micro atx motherboards which allow a single 12v input, but the electrical noise from the alternator would probably cause issues with the computer.

When you start with a low quality source (YouTube), there isn't really anything that you can do to make it sound better. A DAC won't sound better that your onboard when using a low quality source.

I have the R-15m which are the non powered versions. They sound good for the price.

Well, it depends. If you are running a single color led strip, then you can connect a power supply at each end, if the supplies are identical. I'm not sure how RGB strips work as far as using multiple supplies, but the same principal would probably apply.

Yes, the amps will be different when changing voltage. So if your at 5 v and 27 amps that is 135w because p=IV. So if you want to find the draw from the plug socket, it would be I=P/V. So at 240 v it would be 1.8 amps.

So assuming that the 27 amps is at 12 v for the led strips, that's 324 watts. At 240v (from the wall socket) you would only be pulling about 1.4 amps from the wall socket. You could run an extension lead no problem. The voltage drop would be negligible.

Got a few pictures from my phone through a welding helmet, I only had 70% in new York.