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D2ultima

Member
  • Content Count

    4,315
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About D2ultima

  • Title
    Livestreaming Master
  • Birthday 1989-11-06

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    d2ultima
  • Twitch.tv
    d2ultima
  • Twitter
    D2ultima

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Trinidad and Tobago
  • Interests
    Gaming, PCs, laptops, 3D gaming, reading, livestreaming
  • Biography
    Just a guy who loves tech in a country that's technologically stagnant.
  • Occupation
    Currently NEET

System

  • CPU
    i7-7700K
  • Motherboard
    Clevo P870DM3
  • RAM
    4 x 8GB DDR4 2400MHz 17-17-17-39 (needs fixing)
  • GPU
    GTX 1080N 8GB x2 (SLI)
  • Case
    P870DM3 chassis
  • Storage
    850 Pro 256GB, 850 EVO 500GB M.2, Crucial M4 512GB, Samsung PM961 256GB
  • PSU
    780W Eurocom PSU
  • Display(s)
    AUO B173HAN01.2 17.3" 120Hz laptop display + 1360 x 768 Sharp TV (second screen)
  • Cooling
    P870DM3 un-modified internal cooling
  • Keyboard
    P870DM3 internal keyboard
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Core
  • Sound
    Corsair Vengeance 1500 v2 & Steelseries H-Wireless
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro x64 (garbage)

Recent Profile Visitors

5,527 profile views
  1. D2ultima

    The video RAM information guide

    Haha that's all fine, I'm good with the technicalities. There's often a line where you simply CANNOT explain something in more depth or people just won't get it, this would be one of those things. But yeah, it doesn't make one card faster at all.
  2. D2ultima

    The video RAM information guide

    Read it a few times, I think we're talking about the same thing. If you're running 150fps single GPU then you run it SLI each GPU is doing (roughly) half the work, so each GPU only needs half the memory bandwidth demands due to the extra downtime. It does mean you get more of a memory bandwidth break because if one card was bandwidth bottlenecked at say 100fps and you were only using... 60% GPU, SLI would probably get you around 190fps and each card would be sitting around 60-70% uitlization (assuming good scaling). NVLink or normal bridge, it doesn't change how SLI works. The change is the connection between cards, and how much data can be passed between each card (which is a HUGE benefit to SLI functionality (if Nvidia would get their drivers working that is). When you experience bandwidth choking with SLI (and generally poor scaling) you are in a situation where the game probably needs more data from the slave to the primary (and vice versa) than can be provided. It can't send completed frames AND the frame buffer data across without widening the choke. That was the entire point of the High Bandwidth bridge, and now NVLink SLI. It only even exists because Nvidia knows the BFGD it wants to put out simply cannot be powered by single GPU, but even PCI/e 3.0 x16/x16 + HB bridge isn't enough for 4K high refresh + gsync, so NVLink to the rescue. I have a big stink about it in my SLI guide (you can see in my signature). I honestly would love to update these guides but for whatever reason, the guides are broken. They were written before this forum went to IPB v4, and after updating to IPB v4 they encountered... problems. I have had to simply copy and paste the ENTIRE guide without context and re-write them, re-add links, re-make tables, etc literally every single time I want to make more than a single small change near the bottom. If I could do this from scratch on a new page and have them re-stickied after they were done, where editing them would cause no problems with formatting or colour for night mode or light theme etc, then I would be happy to oblige. I haven't stopped learning it's just become extremely chore-ish to update.
  3. D2ultima

    The SLI information guide

    Single 2080Ti over two of any Pascal card, without a shadow of a doubt. 2080 if you can't afford that. 1080 and 1080Ti SLI require PCI/e 3.0 x16/x16 + high bandwidth bridge to work optimally, and the 2080Ti will do better in most situations. I would suggest getting a watercooled 2080 or 2080Ti though, since Turing is quite temperature sensitive.
  4. No. For $100 Canadian you could add a 250GB SSD of good quality, but that's it. Your GPU is not changeable and you're not getting a better CPU for that price. If your machine isn't currently gaming properly it won't get better.
  5. yup I knew it had to be a desktop xD. It's not the first time I saw a desktop doing something like that but unfortunately in laptops they're just a waste of existence.
  6. D2ultima

    The SLI information guide

    Seeing as how it doesn't support SLI... no.
  7. Oh that's pretty interesting, is it in a desktop? I know of no laptops that could handle that kind of power draw at those temps for an hour from that generation.
  8. it's not unnotice-able. It's just that mechanical switches no matter what you do are loud. The brown is still going to annoy people in a classroom. It'll still have your bro hear you typing like a madman across the room. A Blue Yeti is still gonna pick up your click clacking. Etc etc. If you need it to be as quiet as you can get for some cases, then the version with a membrane keyboard should suffice, but I only know of Eluk who sells it and they are resistant to sell it with the 8750H/1060N/144Hz
  9. i tested it with brown. It is still audible. All mechanical switches are audible. Period.
  10. So, the Blade 15 is a very broken overpriced piece of crap pretending to be a laptop. It just happens to cool itself this year... kind of. Crackling power bricks, insane backlight bleed, performance differences between units ranging north of 10% in the GPU, as well as Razer's other standard garbage are abound. There was one point Amazon UK stopped selling it because of literally too many returns and complaints of broken units. Don't waste your money. Instead I'd consider something like the XMG Neo 15. It has mechanical switches on its keyboard though, so if you need a very quiet keyboard don't take it, and I'll suggest something else. Avoid the unit from PC Specialist UK because the company manually neuters the unit's performance and insist they don't, and you'll end up with a 35W allocation to the processor once the CPU and GPU are both loaded, throttling you to very very low speeds.
  11. Honestly you might as well ignore Dave2D too. He has faked benchmarks and reviewed the same laptop twice under a different branding and given them completely different reviews, the TongFang that's branded as Eluktronics' Mech 15 G2 and Walmart's OP15. He is a shill and doesn't really actually use the units he "reviews" as it is apparent. Whoever pays him to make it sound good gets the good reviews it would seem. If you want actual reviews, find people, or come to the /r/suggestalaptop discord server where people actually do the checking (because I bug them to do it properly) and I made the bot warn people before buying crap. It's great. Anyway, yeah. I would use AC2 or ICD over Hydronaut though. Though if your maximum temps are very low (<70°C) then paste does not matter as much.
  12. MX-4 is horrible for laptops due to the low mounting pressure and high thermal density of the parts (CPUs mainly, but 1080s also have this). I did not realize that's why I'd been tagged. Linus does not seem to review units properly once again. His review of units like the Acer Nitro 5 leaving out hard thermal issues are a prime example. If you are planning to get the GP63 unit, go off what I said, and be prepared to return it if it fails to deliver (which I expect it to do, honestly). As for NBR... users like HMScott, Deks and Danishblunt are to be completely ignored. There are a lot of fanboys that produce incorrect information about the units from the line they care about, like Danishblunt insisting it's impossible to get a cold-running Clevo (my earlier screenshot disproves this) and that MSI units are the way to go for everything. As for thermal pastes, here's the rundown: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut: The only liquid metal you should consider. Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut: The best non-conductive paste available. It REQUIRES a flat heatsink with good contact; if your heatsink is scratched, warped, or contact is not tight, you are better off with mayonnaise. Gelid GC Extreme: Doesn't have a long shelf life in the bottle; have heard it may require heating up to apply. Good performance, on par with IC Diamond and Kryonaut. IC DIamond: Probably the best overall paste for laptops. Great with scratched/warped/otherwise-non-perfect heatsinks/contact. Very close to Kryonaut in performance, though Kryonaut can still save a degree or two in extreme cases. DO NOT SCRUB OFF. This paste requires soaking and gently wiping off, as the instructions (which nobody reads) say. If you scrub it with an alcohol pad you will scratch and potentially damage your heatsink and/or chip die, and it will be your fault, and you will try to blame not-you, but it will be your fault. It is possible to have mirror surfaces on dies after removing this, and it happens every time I do it. Arcticlean kits help a lot more than alcohol for this. It is still a pain to remove, but it is SAFE to remove. Cooler Master Nano Gel Maker: I hear good things. It ain't better than the above pastes, but it's not bad either. Arctic Céramiqué 2: SUPER CHEAP. 25G tube for like $8 on Amazon. Not a bad paste, is a "filler" type like IC Diamond. Very good for multiple laptops and multiple attempts at paste jobs. Kind of sticky. MX-4: Explained above, don't use. NT-H1: Similar to MX-4, does not work well without high mounting pressure. Much more prone to pump-out. Arctic Silver Glue 5: As the name suggests, becomes glue some time after bonding. Might actually damage boards or flimsy heatsinks when trying to remove after some time has passed. Do not use. That's about all the pastes you'll hear about most of the time.Good luck picking one to use.
  13. GE series 8th gen has polarizing reports no matter what I check. Haven't had any concrete information about the GP series. One thing is that MSI tends to have AC DC loadline set badly by default and it causes way too much processor voltage under load, and if you change that in the BIOS then you get a lot better thermals, but I am unsure if this affects the GP/GE series. If I'm gonna be really honest though, when it comes to laptops, the super cheap ones with high specs... you pay for what you get. I've seen GP63s with 8750H/1070N/144Hz cheaper than good 8750H/1060N/144Hz units, and that sends me a little bit of warning bells. If OP wants to try it, then cool. Repaste and undervolt is about as best as he'll get, and checking the AC/DC loadline in BIOS if it's present. But OP should know it's a gamble. Just remember: anybody saying the unit is good and UNWILLING TO PROVIDE PROOF is to be completely ignored, end of story. You want them to provide video footage with real-time statistics of performance during tests, because I could sit here and say that my laptop sits under 60c GPU and at 70c CPU under max CPU/GPU load in games all day long but unless I provide screenshots or video footage with sufficient data I could be talking out my cowhole and you'd have no way of knowing.
  14. D2ultima

    The SLI information guide

    The drivers don't really help. I've not seen Nvidia drivers help a game since Doom 2016 because of a new vulkan support going from 378.92 to 397.96 but that wasn't even a game ready driver. That said, if NVLink worked properly you probably should be able to get a straight 95% or so scaling in Witcher 3 on matter Gsync, HDR, etc. But NVLink doesn't really work right now.
  15. D2ultima

    The SLI information guide

    Yeah the only real fix for that is NVLink SLI not the bridge-based. But x16/x16 with a HB bridge is as fast as you can get without Turing
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