runit3

I killed my old 5960X with 1.78v Vcore under DICE (repeated runs, probably hit 1.85v at one point). VCCIN over 2.0v is not likely to gain you any more stability than leaving it at a respectable 1.85-1.9v (it's a moot point). If you really wanted to fry something pushing 1.5v+ through the IMC via VCCIO/SA is a nice way to kill the usability of a chip. The new 5960X runs at 1.395v daily (under water) and I have had no degradation over the last 6 months. The only chip I've ever gotten to degrade was a 2550k at 1.525-1.5v for around a month of use (had to notch back the clock by 200MHz and eventually dropped it to 1.45v -no issues ATM reported from the person I gave the build to). This was also coupled with multiple sprints to 1.7v, so take that for what it's worth. If you really want to get into the nitty-gritty of voltage limits no manufacturer flat out tells people where the maximums are. Mass trial and error reporting is really the only usable metrics we get, and outside of a few people on this forum who regularly push DICE/LN2, overclock.net is the place you will want to go for that type of information. http://www.overclock.net/t/1510388/haswell-e-overclock-leaderboard-owners-club For warranty info there's really no way to prove your CPU was running at a certain voltage, or for how long it was running that voltage. Many people regularly do warranty claims on chips they've killed with voltage, if there's no immediate physical signs of abuse (toasted pin platforms or deformed IHS's) there's not much they can do to refute the claim. This is obviously less than savory, but you can purchase Intel's PTPP for your chip ($25-35 depending on the chip) and blast it with voltage to your heart's content. This is what I did for my 5960X and told the warranty rep that I killed it under voltage. New chip arrived in less than 2 weeks (US shipping) -not sure if that plan is offered in Germany, or how long it would take to get a replacement.

Best option would be to snipe a gutted laptop MOBO off ebay that still functions and supports a GPU. If you're trying to build a laptop out of a a consumer ITX board it's going to turn into a lap-briefcase. I briefly entertained the idea a while back, but it just isn't feasible on consumer grade parts -sans scavenged laptop parts. If you really want to take the plunge here are some sub $100 ITX options: Intel http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=itx+H97&N=4027&isNodeId=1 AMD http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007625&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True&SrchInDesc=ITX&Page=1&PageSize=30

What CPU do you have now? That's going to be the limiting factor

Smaller than ITX?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-precisemount-add-on-naked-ivy May be worth shooting EK an email asking if it would be compatible with 1366. The only other option would be to make your own shimmed spacer setup to mount a block/cooler to. You just have to be extremely careful with the pressure applied, or you'll be cracking dies left and right.

You show me one real world example where someone has killed a CPU at 1.38v (of any generation) from simply hitting thermal ceiling and I'll believe you. Thermal limit/throttle is there for a reason, to prevent damage to the CPU. If he pegged thermal limit for an extended period of time I would buy the fact that eventually the CPU would be damaged in some way, but simply smacking it a couple times isn't going to kill anything.

In your example that is the WIlly Wonka golden ticket of CPU's, and no, it will not degrade at that voltage and those temps unless you have changed another voltage setting like VCCIO/VCCSA -which would be completely unnecessary unless you're trying to run 3600-4300MHz RAM (IMC needs a voltage bump to accommodate those speeds). If all you have touched is core voltage and multiplier, and the core voltage is set to static/manual override, you're in the clear. Do not leave the voltage on auto while putting the CPU under synthetic loads (XTU, AIDA, P95) as it can call for more voltage than you have set.

You said, " (I suggest using a reduced voltage before trying, though, as you risk frying your CPU with 1.38). " which is just patently false information. Even if temps maxed at 90-100C it will thermal throttle down. The only way to insta-fry a CPU is to set it in the 1.7-1.9v territory with voltage and temp monitoring disabled. You have to really try to kill these things.

Where are you getting this information? 1.38v is perfectly acceptable for Skylake, I would consider it on the low side -especially for over 4.5GHz. Max voltages reported from most sources would set a limit between 1.4-1.5v, 1.45v is usually the recommended maximum. http://www.tweaktown.com/guides/7481/tweaktowns-ultimate-intel-skylake-overclocking-guide/index5.html http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics http://overclocking.guide/skylake-overclocking-power-consumption-and-voltage-scaling/ @jeremyjude57 1.38v for 4.9 bootable is amazing, the fact that you can even make it to desktop with that low of a voltage/high of a clock is great. Don't use P95, it's a pointless metric unless you're trying to figure out the max temp under load of your chip. Run a combo of AIDA64, Intel XTU, and ASUS Realbench + games/real world to test the stability. I would guess you'll need at least 1.425-1.44v to keep it stable at that clock, which is perfectly fine for Skylake provided you're under 80-85C on synthetic loads.

Well...it's binned...and if you don't want it, you have to sell it or give it away. If you mean tacking on a price premium for it, probably not going to happen. Most of the "stock never OC'd" chips would go for more than "this chip is just allright". Talking from experience here, sold a binned i3-6100 at 4.5GHz for sub retail, no buyers for binning. Even Silicon Lottery usually only charges a $5-10 price premium under 4.7

have you tried manually keying in a voltage and switching to static mode?

well now you know how you could trick her into lighting herself on fire. I've said too much

Most canned "air" products use difluoroethane as the propellant, not nitrogen. If the laptops were on when he was doing it, that was stupid. DFE in a liquid state will light on fire....not that I've turned a table into a fireball or anything.... >_> (seriously don't do it, the ignition fumes are incredibly toxic).

The 2696 is absent from the supported CPU list, http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/X99E-ITXac/?cat=CPU Probably an OEM release, may be worth contacting ASRock to see if there are any compatibility issues with OEM's instead of retail. There really shouldn't be, but it's the only glaring problem I can think of besides the beep codes.

Price to Performance R9-390/X. This is coming from someone who had 970's in SLI and moved to a single 290X 8GB (basically a 390X). Now I have no issues with HD texture packs at 1440, rarely sub 60fps.

The 860k and upcoming 880k's are really the budget sector. I have no idea why people even consider FX-anything's unless it's the FX-8 for budget rendering, but even then a 1231v3 would be my choice. I've always wanted to do an 860k console killer, but have no real reason to piss away $4-500.

Inspect the socket for any bent/missing pins. After that try the other PSU, 300w is plenty for the i7 860.

What TV are you using? If it actually has HDMI 2.0 support it's going to be exceedingly difficult to find a board with that. If you don't care about being locked at 24 with HDMI 1.4 an i3-6100 and any H170 board will do just fine.

It won't launch without a .dll injection, same thing that happened for FC4 and I believe AC:U. Ubisoft has moved on from supporting dual cores in their games.

If you're a magician with a soldering iron and want to risk a board, pinouts are standardized.

Unless MSFT has changed their process it should be fairly universal through all of their OS releases. I haven't had to do it with Win 10 yet.

Yes https://www.nzxt.com/manuals/krakenx61/X61-115X.html

I don't know what you want me to do. You can talk to Google and Newegg about it.

probably because I searched with Google...

The only way to control the fans from the NZXT app is to plug them into the harnesses coming off the pump, and connect the pump the USB header of the board. If you want to control the fans through the controller, plug them into that. Board, plug them into the board. Read the X61 manual. Tells you everything.