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Asus Z97 + i7-4790k overclock help

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Hey everyone
 

I'm a noob in overclocking and got an Asus Z97 Deluxe + i7-4790K CPU.

I've just watched Linus' OC video, but I've got some stuff different in my UEFI.

In the AI Overclock tuner drop down there's no XMP option for me (but I guess it's only for the memory?)
And in the Voltage section I've got more stuff than core & offset voltage. (There are: System Agent Voltage, Analoge I/O voltage offset, Digital I/O voltage offset)
I'm not sure what setting's I've missed. I've also flipped the XMP switch on my motherboard (green LED is on) so  it should be enabled. And I've changed the jumper position for the CPU overvoltage so it's enabled. (this maybe necessary for extreme overvoltage only?)

What settings should I look at to get my 'bios' work/look a bit similar to Linus'

Thanks for any help in advance!
 

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I've never heard of a physical switch for XMP and a jumper for overvoltage on any mobo from past... 5 years at least? It is wierd O.o

 

However, different mobos have different BIOSes. You will never have the same BIOS as another mobo unless your mobo is from the same series.

 

The settings you need to starts are: clock ratio and core voltage (both base and turbo, or however it is called).

Linus said it fast in his video, but in the end you have to increase ONLY the voltage used under load. If you rise the base voltage, then your CPU will use high voltage even on idle and this will cause unnecessary heat and power consumption.

 

I recommend this very user-friendly guide, however this is for Sandy and Ivy bridge CPUs, so use it just to learn the methodology (Prime95 stress test, the approach to rising/lowering ratio and voltage etc etc)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition

 

You must find a proper guide per Haswell/Haswell Refresh CPUs so you can find what are the recommended maximum temperature and voltage, the optimal temperature and what each setting do (and if it matters for OC or not).

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The easy overclock is just to change core voltage to full manual and leave everything else to AUTO. You won't get impressive results that ways but you get some experience on overcloking atleast.

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I've fiddled with the overclock.
and my win didn't boot up on 4.7 ghz 1.25V. I've upped the voltage to 1.3 still no boot, then I've decided to back up the clockspeed, still no boot. clear cmos, still no boot. reinstall win7, boots up, but I've lost my 500GB HDD (only the system SSD works)
I'm not sure if my HDD died, or I've got some SATA port issues but this motherboard had some issues with booting sometimes, also entered UEFI 'frozen' occasionaly with no respond to the mouse, keyboard, and no temp & fan monitoring like it should be.
I'll check if my SSD works on all SATA ports, and try to put my HDD into my external drive cage.
could the overclocking kill my harddrive? I didn't used any extreme settings...

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I don't know if updating the bios would make it more like what you saw in the video, but you could try.

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now all my SATA ports are dead. it looks like the mobo gave up and my fear came true. both my drives work connected to my laptop.
it will be nice to get it replaced... warranty is always a hassle

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I've fiddled with the overclock.

and my win didn't boot up on 4.7 ghz 1.25V. I've upped the voltage to 1.3 still no boot, then I've decided to back up the clockspeed, still no boot. clear cmos, still no boot. reinstall win7, boots up, but I've lost my 500GB HDD (only the system SSD works)

I'm not sure if my HDD died, or I've got some SATA port issues but this motherboard had some issues with booting sometimes, also entered UEFI 'frozen' occasionaly with no respond to the mouse, keyboard, and no temp & fan monitoring like it should be.

I'll check if my SSD works on all SATA ports, and try to put my HDD into my external drive cage.

could the overclocking kill my harddrive? I didn't used any extreme settings...

 

If you touched ONLY the CPU core voltage and you didn't go past 1,3 V, then no, overclock did not kill your hardware.

Remember to NOT touch voltages you don't know like VCCSA.

 

Further more, clearing CMOS should be more than enough to solve any boot problem. It is unusal that you had to format your OS. Sometimes a high OC with a BSOD may corrupt files (very very very rare) but they can be fixed with a scandisk.

 

I don't think Haswell and Haswell refresh are that far from Sandy/Ivy so I can say that you will not reach 4,7 GHz with only 1,3 V.

I have an Ivy (not Haswell, but just as an example) and I need 1,288-1,296 V for stable OC at 4,5 GHz.

 

The best approach would be to search for a specific guide for Haswell Refresh CPUs, similar to the Sandy/Ivy guide I posted above.

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I'm reading the manual of your mobo right now.

 

Set the TPU switch to "disabled", it is modifying the base system clock automatically and this will cause you some serious issues.

Set the EPU switch to "disabled": power saving features work on voltages and clocks, which is a problem if you are overclocking.

Set the EZ XMP switch to "disabled" and activate the XMP manually in the BIOS: it would be easier to fix in case of instability compared to moving the jumper all the time.

Disable the CPU OV jumper and see which voltage settings disappears from the BIOS, probably you will still have the settings you need.

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Hi, when you bought your Z97 Deluxe, did you have to update the BIOS or did it work with i7 4790k out of the box?

Sorry for the off topic question, trying to find a motherboard that's compatible out of the box for 4790k.

 

Thanks!

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Hi, when you bought your Z97 Deluxe, did you have to update the BIOS or did it work with i7 4790k out of the box?

Sorry for the off topic question, trying to find a motherboard that's compatible out of the box for 4790k.

 

Thanks!

 

Z97 boards are designed for Devil's Canyon cpus (4690K and 4790K, etc.), so they should support it out of the box.  If you want to use a Z87 board with a devil's canyon cpu, you will have to update the bios (and some boards may not support it).  

 

now all my SATA ports are dead. it looks like the mobo gave up and my fear came true. both my drives work connected to my laptop.

it will be nice to get it replaced... warranty is always a hassle

Did you change anything else in the bios besides core voltage and multiplier?  When you go into the bios, under the "Boot" tab, can you see your hard drives listed (you may have to scroll down)?

Isopropyl alcohol is all you need for cleaning CPU's and motherboard components.  No, you don't need [insert cleaning solution here].  -Source: PhD Student, Chemistry


Why overclockers should understand Load-Line Calibration.


ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition || i7 3930k @ 4.5 GHz || 32 GB Corsair Vengeance CL8 || ASUS GTX 780 DCuII || ASUS Xonar Essence STX || XFX PRO 1000W

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Hi, when you bought your Z97 Deluxe, did you have to update the BIOS or did it work with i7 4790k out of the box?

Sorry for the off topic question, trying to find a motherboard that's compatible out of the box for 4790k.

 

Thanks!

yep, it worked fine. Except for the occasional frozen UEFI. but it has nothing to do with the CPU (I hope)

I've only updated because of the overclock and "why not".

but it looks like I've got a faulty board = broken SATA ports. I've tried all of them with only the SSD, and it always enters into UEFI and finds no bootable drives.

I haven't changed anything else. Only core ratio to Sync all cores, CPU core voltage: manual 1.25-1.3 and core ratio 4.4-4.7

 

 

Thanks everyone for the overclock helps. I've found the voltage settings I've been looking for, it was my stupidity. (I could boot and test it on 'manual' 4.6GHz - 1.25V)

Now I have to wait until they replace the board I'm affraid. (BTW almost all my builds had a bad mobo for the first time and had to replace them immediately. bad luck)

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I don't think Haswell and Haswell refresh are that far from Sandy/Ivy so I can say that you will not reach 4,7 GHz with only 1,3 V.

I have an Ivy (not Haswell, but just as an example) and I need 1,288-1,296 V for stable OC at 4,5 GHz.

 

I know the 4.7 on 1.3V was a long shot, I've seen other peoples results. I wasn't surprised it didn't boot. But I wasn't expecting my mobo to die (or only the SATA ports). Probably it's a strange coincidence. I've noticed some minor issues with the board since the first day.

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Lord Jesus, did you kill it already :o. Did you unplug the HDDs while power was going to the system?(this shorts parts) RMA the bloddy thing. 

 

I am at a lost for words on this one. Da f***! :wacko:

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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Lord Jesus, did you kill it already :o. Did you unplug the HDDs while power was going to the system?(this shorts parts) RMA the bloddy thing. 

 

I am at a lost for words on this one. Da f***! :wacko:

I always turn off the PSU on the back and wait till all the LEDs turn off on the mobo when I plug\unplug anything.

I think it was bad on arrival just needed a little push to gave in... I really hope they won't say it's my fault...

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I always turn off the PSU on the back and wait till all the LEDs turn off on the mobo when I plug\unplug anything.

I think it was bad on arrival just needed a little push to gave in... I really hope they won't say it's my fault...

They may but it is under warranty so it should be no problem. I also thing you need to do more research on OCing. You never just do manual OCs if you are new to it and even if you are not new to OCing you never never ever ever never ever do such a huge voltage right up front. How do you know the CPU is ok? Suppose this is a CPU problem and not just the motherboard? Anyway you could wait until the motherboard's RMA is done and then check the CPU i guess, your system is new.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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They may but it is under warranty so it should be no problem. I also thing you need to do more research on OCing. You never just do manual OCs if you are new to it and even if you are not new to OCing you never never ever ever never ever do such a huge voltage right up front. How do you know the CPU is ok? Suppose this is a CPU problem and not just the motherboard? Anyway you could wait until the motherboard's RMA is done and then check the CPU i guess, your system is new.

1.3V isn't a huge voltage for Haswell or Devil's Canyon (this CPU).  Also, manual overclocking is how one learns to overclock.  An auto overclock will teach you nothing about what's actually going on or how to make it better.  When you're new to overclocking, you should read and watch guides, and then it becomes trial and error (and you're on your own).  

Isopropyl alcohol is all you need for cleaning CPU's and motherboard components.  No, you don't need [insert cleaning solution here].  -Source: PhD Student, Chemistry


Why overclockers should understand Load-Line Calibration.


ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition || i7 3930k @ 4.5 GHz || 32 GB Corsair Vengeance CL8 || ASUS GTX 780 DCuII || ASUS Xonar Essence STX || XFX PRO 1000W

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1.3V isn't a huge voltage for Haswell or Devil's Canyon (this CPU).  Also, manual overclocking is how one learns to overclock.  An auto overclock will teach you nothing about what's actually going on or how to make it better.  When you're new to overclocking, you should read and watch guides, and then it becomes trial and error (and you're on your own).  

1.3v is a huge voltage for any CPU and voltage increases heat. Manual OCing is not how someone learns to OC, you learn to OC by watching tutorials from the different accepted OCing pro who have the first hand guide from the makers, (like JJ from ASUS, Linus and the rest) of the different OCable parts (in this case the motherboard and CPU) who has the real experience. Then you the home OCer understand what is being done and then you start to OC your parts.

 

If 1.3v isn't hugh the motherboard should be ok and this topic would not have existed. 

 

Any good OCer would tell you that if you do not or have not have real experiences with OCing you never start of with a huge voltage and frequency then site back to see how it goes. Even the various software that is use to do OCing via tuner does the OC by starting off with a small jump in frequency and voltage then increase it little by little.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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Mhm all that sounds strange...

 

I´ve got an i7 4770K and maximum OC I get stable is 4.6GHz @ 1.3Volts (yes I know Devil´s Canyon can go further) . More isn´t happening with this CPU. But other than the reboot doesn´t usually happen when an OC isn´t stable. And you just got to go down a bit with the OC and there you go. I don´t use adaptive mode much because I am running lots of benchmarks, and I am way too lazy adjusting my settings all the time in the UEFI. So my CPU is always in manual mode in Voltage settings. But I do have a killer custom watercooler on it, so temps are not a question for me (other than I´d go crazy and go for liquid nitrogen OCs...).

 

My question is, what kind of CPU cooler do you have? Hopefully you did NOT try to OC this CPU with a standard heatsink. This might result in severe damage. Because THEN 1.3 Volts are bad, like really bad!

 

And did you take it easy and crank it up step by step (good OC takes a lot of time, because you need individually determine the limit of your components) or did you just try to go for a high OC right away?

 

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1.3v is a huge voltage for any CPU and voltage increases heat. 

*snip*

If 1.3v isn't hugh the motherboard should be ok and this topic would not have existed. 

*snip*

Any good OCer would tell you that if you do not or have not have real experiences with OCing you never start of with a huge voltage and frequency then site back to see how it goes. 

"The generally regarded as pretty safe voltage being 1.3V for Haswell-based CPUs"  -Linus

 

1.3V is not huge, it's getting near the upper end, but not huge.  I'm running ~1.3V on my 4690k and my load temps are ~60C with an H100.  

Isopropyl alcohol is all you need for cleaning CPU's and motherboard components.  No, you don't need [insert cleaning solution here].  -Source: PhD Student, Chemistry


Why overclockers should understand Load-Line Calibration.


ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition || i7 3930k @ 4.5 GHz || 32 GB Corsair Vengeance CL8 || ASUS GTX 780 DCuII || ASUS Xonar Essence STX || XFX PRO 1000W

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBfXruwe8w4#t=457

"The generally regarded as pretty safe voltage being 1.3V for Haswell-based CPUs"  -Linus

 

1.3V is not huge, it's getting near the upper end, but not huge.  I'm running ~1.3V on my 4690k and my load temps are ~60C with an H100.  

While this is good for your CPU it didn't seem to good for OPs motherboard. All CPU are different and what you maybe able to do with one you may not get away with it on another.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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I didn't gave it 1.3V right away, I got the CPU and GPU watercooled. On 1,25V 4.6GHz didn't reach 60°C on Aida stress-test.
Also I've tried the ASUS software OC thing first and it gave the CPU way over 1.3V according to the software.
I don't think I've killed anything with my noobness (I hope).

Since I can't put the CPU in any other board I have to wait.

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While this is good for your CPU it didn't seem to good for OPs motherboard. All CPU are different and what you maybe able to do with one you may not get away with it on another.

Error here: if he was changing only the CPU voltage then it is impossible that overvoltage damaged the mobo (unless he changed VCSSA but seems he didn't).

And again, 1,3V is kinda low if you are overlocking seriously.

Even with a discrete OC you will reach 1,3 or very close to it.

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I didn't gave it 1.3V right away, I got the CPU and GPU watercooled. On 1,25V 4.6GHz didn't reach 60°C on Aida stress-test.

Also I've tried the ASUS software OC thing first and it gave the CPU way over 1.3V according to the software.

I don't think I've killed anything with my noobness (I hope).

Since I can't put the CPU in any other board I have to wait.

Did you read my post about switches and jumpers? Or did you send it to RMA already?

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I didn't gave it 1.3V right away, I got the CPU and GPU watercooled. On 1,25V 4.6GHz didn't reach 60°C on Aida stress-test.

Also I've tried the ASUS software OC thing first and it gave the CPU way over 1.3V according to the software.

I don't think I've killed anything with my noobness (I hope).

Since I can't put the CPU in any other board I have to wait.

Sorry for thinking you gave the CPU 1.3v @47ghz right away, it sounded that way and you did state you are noob.. :P

 

Did you buy your parts in your country or in the US?....maybe you can go to the store and ask them if they can test the cpu. Do you know a friend who has a Z97 motherboard? maybe you can ask them if you can check your CPU.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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