Jump to content

R9 290 VRM temps with Kraken G10/X40

Virgule

Hi,

 

I just switched my MSI R9 290 Gaming on a Kraken G10+X40 and I'm noticing a somewhat better GPU temperature. However, I'm wondering about my VRM temps. In GPU-Z, I have 3 temperature sensors :

 

- GPU temperature (which is the chip itself I guess) which goes to 78 oC @ full load;

- VRM1 temperature which doesn't go past 40 oC;

- VRM2 temperature, which can climb to 95 oC.

 

 

amd-hawaii-msi-r9-290x-gaming-pcb.jpgMSI-Radeon-R9-290X-GAMING-4.jpg

Now, changing the stock cooler to the G10/X40 combo, I made a few changes to the card : 

- The memory module row left of the chip now aren't covered by a thermal pad strip that touches the big twin frozr cooler;

- The VRM (vertical) row right of the chip now isn't covered by a thermal pad strip that touches the big twin frozr cooler;

- The small black squares (whatever they are) row right of the chip now isn't covered by a thermal pad strip that touches the big twin frozr cooler;

 

Some things are still the same though :

- The scattered VRMs right-most of the pcb are air cooled, as they where under the twin frozr cooler;

- I left the backplate and the frontplate on. The backplate still cools the pcb. The frontplate sits on top of 2 memory modules rows (top of chip and right of chip) and cools them via thermal strip.

 

Now I might need to take the backplate off because is makes the NZXT small square backplate bend in the down-right corner, where the screw doesn't pass the stock backplate, like it does for the 3 other screws. Taking off the backplate, I might need to take off the frontplate since both are screwed into eachother. I might be able to keep it but I am scared of the screws retaining the frontplate being in direct contact with the pscb (instead of the backplate).

 

With that in mind, I have a few questions :

1- Does anyone know which VRM temp sensor corresponds to which VRM layout ? Both are air cooled on my G10/X40 combo and one have much lower temps than the other.

2- Should I worry about a 95 oC or so temperature for VRM2 ? I bought a few copper heatsinks that I will receive from Asia in a few weeks. I plan on sticking those to the hottest VRMs.

3- My 78 oC GPU temp at full load still seems high compared to the twin frozr cooler (around the same, drops quicker when load drops though). Is that due to a uneven contact with the X40 ?

4- Should I remove my backplate / frontplate ? Is it a problem having the memory modules naked ?

 

Thanks for any help, will be happy to clarify if needed.

Spoiler

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Take off the backplate/frontplate and get some vrm and memory heatsinks.

CPU: Intel i7 4770k w/Noctua NH-D15, Motherboard: Gigabyte Z97 Ultra Durable, RAM: Patriot 8Gb 1600Mhz (2x4Gb), GPU: MSI R9 390x Gaming,


SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 1Tb, HDD: Caviar Black 1Tb, Seagate 4Tb Hybrid, Case: Fractal Design Define R4, PSU: Antec Earthwatts 750w 


Phone: LG G2 32Gb Black (Verizon) Laptop: Fujitsu Lifebook E754 w/ 1TB Samsung 840 Evo SSD Vehicle: 2012 Nissan Xterra named Rocky

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah the backplate doesn't have enough thermal conductivity as dedicated aluminum vrm sinks do. I have vrm sinks on mine and vrm temps never get over 82C (with AS Ceramique 2, which isnt recommended since it'll become loose when the card is running with fan blowing on it, but still works :) )

CPU AMD FX 8350 @5GHz. Motherboard Asus Crosshair V Formula Z. RAM 8GB G.Skill Sniper. GPU Reference Sapphire Radeon R9 290X. Case Fractal Design Define XL R2. Storage Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD and 120GB Kingston HyperX 3K. PSU XFX 850BEFX Pro 850W 80+ Gold. Cooler XSPC RayStorm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

I just switched my MSI R9 290 Gaming on a Kraken G10+X40 and I'm noticing a somewhat better GPU temperature. However, I'm wondering about my VRM temps. In GPU-Z, I have 3 temperature sensors :

 

- GPU temperature (which is the chip itself I guess) which goes to 78 oC @ full load;

- VRM1 temperature which doesn't go past 40 oC;

- VRM2 temperature, which can climb to 95 oC.

 

 

amd-hawaii-msi-r9-290x-gaming-pcb.jpgMSI-Radeon-R9-290X-GAMING-4.jpg

Now, changing the stock cooler to the G10/X40 combo, I made a few changes to the card : 

- The memory module row left of the chip now aren't covered by a thermal pad strip that touches the big twin frozr cooler;

- The VRM (vertical) row right of the chip now isn't covered by a thermal pad strip that touches the big twin frozr cooler;

- The small black squares (whatever they are) row right of the chip now isn't covered by a thermal pad strip that touches the big twin frozr cooler;

 

Some things are still the same though :

- The scattered VRMs right-most of the pcb are air cooled, as they where under the twin frozr cooler;

- I left the backplate and the frontplate on. The backplate still cools the pcb. The frontplate sits on top of 2 memory modules rows (top of chip and right of chip) and cools them via thermal strip.

 

Now I might need to take the backplate off because is makes the NZXT small square backplate bend in the down-right corner, where the screw doesn't pass the stock backplate, like it does for the 3 other screws. Taking off the backplate, I might need to take off the frontplate since both are screwed into eachother. I might be able to keep it but I am scared of the screws retaining the frontplate being in direct contact with the pscb (instead of the backplate).

 

With that in mind, I have a few questions :

1- Does anyone know which VRM temp sensor corresponds to which VRM layout ? Both are air cooled on my G10/X40 combo and one have much lower temps than the other.

2- Should I worry about a 95 oC or so temperature for VRM2 ? I bought a few copper heatsinks that I will receive from Asia in a few weeks. I plan on sticking those to the hottest VRMs.

3- My 78 oC GPU temp at full load still seems high compared to the twin frozr cooler (around the same, drops quicker when load drops though). Is that due to a uneven contact with the X40 ?

4- Should I remove my backplate / frontplate ? Is it a problem having the memory modules naked ?

 

Thanks for any help, will be happy to clarify if needed.

 

See these? Buy them and stick a row of them here:

 

amd-hawaii-msi-r9-290x-gaming-pcb_zpsaa3

Beforehand, clean the tops of the VRMs with a little isopropyl alcohol and a swab, the pre-applied thermal tape on the sinks will keep them in place. It's good stuff, provided the surface is clean. The RAM chips? If you feel like you want to put sinks on them, that's fine too, but it's not as vital. Just make sure you don't block the pump mounting area.

 

BTW, your GPU temps seem high, try reseating the pump.

Are you threatening me?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

DO NOT USE Those little sinks on the VRM 1 bank. Use this: http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=13&id=108

Also what you circled is not the VRMs. The VRM1 chips are the short metal ones just toward the back of the card from the big black ones:

http://i.imgur.com/OlwKZgr.jpg

Dark red = VRM1

The 3 little bright red circles chips are VRM2 (the guy who made this pic listed them as vrm1 incorrectly).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you all. I will adjust my setup this weekend.

Spoiler

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I was half asleep and got the location wrong, mea culpa, but using heatsinks is still the right move. The GELID cooler only works on reference cards, your MSI isn't reference.

Are you threatening me?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I was half asleep and got the location wrong, mea culpa, but using heatsinks is still the right move. The GELID cooler only works on reference cards, your MSI isn't reference.

While you are correct in that the MSI PCB is a beefed up non-reference board, the VRM 1 bank is in the same location and configuration as the reference boards. The Gelid will still work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I was half asleep and got the location wrong, mea culpa, but using heatsinks is still the right move. The GELID cooler only works on reference cards, your MSI isn't reference.

 

While you are correct in that the MSI PCB is a beefed up non-reference board, the VRM 1 bank is in the same location and configuration as the reference boards. The Gelid will still work.

I hope so, I bought one.

Spoiler

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I was half asleep and got the location wrong, mea culpa, but using heatsinks is still the right move. The GELID cooler only works on reference cards, your MSI isn't reference.

Yes it is. It's a reference PCB.  Where's the difference? There is nothing beefed up about it.

 

amd-hawaii-msi-r9-290x-gaming-pcb.jpg

 

 

img_2336-1920x1280-1920x1280.jpg

5820K - ASUS X99-A - 16GB Corsair LPX - HD 7970 GHz - Qnix 1440p @ 96Hz - Waiting for Polaris/Pascal

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

"Military class" "Hi-C CAP" "Solid CAP" basically marketing bs for supposedly better components.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

95 on vrm`s is just fine, dont worry about it. they are usually rated at 120. it isnt a chip. with prolonged use with original heatsink the go past 90 as well.

if its well over 100 i would start looking at it. 95 is normal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×