First time custom watercooling

[slavic_pixel]

Hello, my fellow watercooling enthusiasts. I've finally decided to ditch AIOs and air coolers and go full custom loop. Using EK's configurator I've made a custom loop and put few other things so I'll just need some feedback as in will all of this work together properly.

Specs:
Case - Fractal Design R6
CPU - i7 6700k

GPU - Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix

Motherboard - Asus Maximus Formula VIII (which I will not be watercooling)

 

I know that dual 360 rads are an overkill for only one cpu and one gpu, but I'm kind of an overkill type of guy so don't bother trying to convince me that I don't need them lol.

Also I got couple of question:
1. I want fans to push the air through front radiator. Will I get the long enough screw with the rad so it'll go through my noctua fans and through the rad and hold it in place?
2. I was thinking of putting the cube splitter on the outlet of the reservoir so one tube will go to the GPU and other to the drain valve. Is that good or is there a better way?
3. Which mount should I choose for my reservoir so it can be attached to my front rad?

 

I'll probably think of more questions along the way.

Thanks in advance.

[MkaiL]

11 minutes ago, slavic_pixel said:

Also I got couple of question:
1. I want fans to push the air through front radiator. Will I get the long enough screw with the rad so it'll go through my noctua fans and through the rad and hold it in place?
2. I was thinking of putting the cube splitter on the outlet of the reservoir so one tube will go to the GPU and other to the drain valve. Is that good or is there a better way?
3. Which mount should I choose for my reservoir so it can be attached to my front rad?

1. Yes it includes 30mm screw with the rad. You still have to check though that they are not too long with your noctua fans, otherwise you'll puncture your rads.

 

2. That's a possibility. What you could also do is put the front rad with the fittings on the bottom and put a splitter there. It's the lowest point in your loop and also the psu shroud will hide the drain valve. 

 

3. I would go with this bracket: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical. 

This one should also work: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan

 

Another thing, the splitter and ball valve require male to male extenders since they don't have threads on them and you might also want to get some plugs to cap them off. Also you should maybe get some angled adapters to make some runs look better, especially with soft tubing. 

Are you not getting a backplate for your gpu? Afaik the asus backplate requires modding to work with ekwb blocks. 

 

23 minutes ago, slavic_pixel said:

Motherboard - Asus Maximus Formula VIII (which I will not be watercooling)

One question though, why invest in such an expensive motherboard and not use the one feature that makes it so expensive? 

[slavic_pixel]

You mean a male extender like this one https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-black and a cap like this one https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-plug-g1-4-black ?

 

I totally forgot about angled adapters. Thanks for reminding me.

I don't like the look of EK's backplate and I found an easy workaround with the stock Strix backplate to make it fit with EK's waterblock..

 

I bought the motherboard for other features and because of the looks. Yeah, I'm that type of guy. Also, I don't want to watercool it because of two reasons. First one, Formula users report that there's zero to none improvement to overclocking and I don't think VRMs get that hot on Skylake boards. Second and the most important reason, upper rad with fans is actually blocking the passthrough onto the motherboard's block. I could try to squeeze it somehow, but since it gives no performance gain, I don't really want to be bother with it since it is my first custom loop.

[MkaiL]

A little tip: when you reply to someone on the forum, it's best to quote them or use "@" like @slavic_pixel so they get notified.

 

Yes that's the extender and cap I mentioned. You'll need 2 extenders (for the valve and for the t-splitter) and at least 1 cap for the valve, your res and gpu block should come with some basic silver caps but I replaced them with black ones since all my fittings are black. You could replace the t-splitter for a y-splitter and eliminate one of the extenders.  (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-y-splitter-rotary-2f-1m-g1-4-black). The motherboard vrm might work if you use a 90° adapter, but it's up to you ofc. I have the same motherboard and I did cool mine.

[slavic_pixel]

Thanks for the tip, @MkaiL.

 

Yeah, I thought about that too. Also, I got another question about splitter. I heard that because of them, the water pressure can be lower. Is it true and if so, can it be a problem? Sorry if its a stupid question, but I like to ask about everything so I don't get an unpleasant surprise.

That actually could work. I'll think about it. Also, did you noticed any change in overclocking?

 

[MkaiL]

14 minutes ago, slavic_pixel said:

Also, I got another question about splitter. I heard that because of them, the water pressure can be lower. Is it true and if so, can it be a problem?

The same can be said about angled adapters and slim rads but my loop contains 2 slim rads and a lot of angled adapters and my d5 easily handles it. A d5 pump is capable of pushing a lot more. I've seen way crazier loops run on a single d5, so don't worry about your setup.

 

14 minutes ago, slavic_pixel said:

That actually could work. I'll think about it. Also, did you noticed any change in overclocking?

I honestly haven't done a before and after test so I actually don't know. 

[slavic_pixel]

Thank a lot for your help. If I remember any more question I'll post them here.

Have a great day!

[MaratM]

2 360 rad is not an overkill it is a way for low rpm on your fans and thus less noise. Also get a water temp sensor and plug it into you motherboard, this way you will be able to controll fans rpm by the water temp

[slavic_pixel]

16 hours ago, MaratM said:

2 360 rad is not an overkill it is a way for low rpm on your fans and thus less noise

I know, but I had a lot of bad experience few years back on Croatian forums where people told me I was a dumbass for buying a GTX 980 Ti even though I told them it was for 4k gaming. Those guys were more of a budget type of guys.

 

16 hours ago, MaratM said:

Also get a water temp sensor and plug it into you motherboard

Didn't think of that. Could you explain to me the best way to install it in the loop? Besides plugging it into the water temp sensor header on the motherboard, do I put it between tubing or? Google failed on me with providing information.

[W-L]

1 hour ago, slavic_pixel said:

I know, but I had a lot of bad experience few years back on Croatian forums where people told me I was a dumbass for buying a GTX 980 Ti even though I told them it was for 4k gaming. Those guys were more of a budget type of guys.

 

Didn't think of that. Could you explain to me the best way to install it in the loop? Besides plugging it into the water temp sensor header on the motherboard, do I put it between tubing or? Google failed on me with providing information.

All of those parts look good, I would recommend to go with thick walled tubing, as it prevent kinking with very tight radius bends. As for the temp probe it doesn't matter where you put it in the loop since the fluid moves so fast around the loop, I've usually installed them on rads as they have extra ports, there are also inline sensors if you want to streamline things or have a need for specific temp probe locations.

 

Also check to make sure your motherboard does have a temp probe in header to have a sensor. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-duraclear-9-5-15-9mm

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-16mm-black-2

[MaratM]

1 hour ago, slavic_pixel said:

I know, but I had a lot of bad experience few years back on Croatian forums where people told me I was a dumbass for buying a GTX 980 Ti even though I told them it was for 4k gaming. Those guys were more of a budget type of guys.

 

Didn't think of that. Could you explain to me the best way to install it in the loop? Besides plugging it into the water temp sensor header on the motherboard, do I put it between tubing or? Google failed on me with providing information.

980ti is a great card even now and capable of running a lot of games on max settings with a good fps

For water temp sensor: get a 4 way splitter, this way one inlet, one for the drain valve, one for outlet and one for temp sensor, it is also possible to get an inline water temp sensor https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293

 

[slavic_pixel]

29 minutes ago, W-L said:

All of those parts look good, I would recommend to go with thick walled tubing, as it prevent kinking with very tight radius bends.

I wanted to ask about tubing size, but I forgot. Are bigger fittings and thicker tubing compatible with y splitter and ball valve? I'm guessing they are, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

32 minutes ago, W-L said:

Also check to make sure your motherboard does have a temp probe in header to have a sensor. 

I have three thermal sensors headers on the motherboard so I'm guessing that's that.

 

8 minutes ago, MaratM said:

980ti is a great card even now and capable of running a lot of games on max settings with a good fps

My point exactly. I upgraded to 1080 Ti year ago because I got a good deal on 980 Ti, but I had more that good enough performance with the 980 Ti on 4k. Couldn't really go to max settings, but medium to high was easily achievable.

 

11 minutes ago, MaratM said:

For water temp sensor: get a 4 way splitter, this way one inlet, one for the drain valve, one for outlet and one for temp sensor, it is also possible to get an inline water temp sensor https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293

 

Thanks! I'll look into it.

[W-L]

13 hours ago, slavic_pixel said:

I wanted to ask about tubing size, but I forgot. Are bigger fittings and thicker tubing compatible with y splitter and ball valve? I'm guessing they are, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

I have three thermal sensors headers on the motherboard so I'm guessing that's that.

 

My point exactly. I upgraded to 1080 Ti year ago because I got a good deal on 980 Ti, but I had more that good enough performance with the 980 Ti on 4k. Couldn't really go to max settings, but medium to high was easily achievable.

 

Thanks! I'll look into it.

The tubing and fittings just have to be compatible with each other all the other adapters and valves are threaded standard G1/4". Sounds like you'll be good to go with all the sensors you want then on your board. 

[slavic_pixel]

Thank you everybody for your help. I'll order the components in about one month so I'll post the final order here just so I can check that I didn't forgot something.

[slavic_pixel]

I got another two questions so if @MkaiL or someone else can help out. 

Since I need to buy some other non watercooling related things, I was thinking to save 20 bucks by buying two 360 SE rads and not one SE and one PE 360. Will there be a noticeable difference? As far as I was on Google, only about 5% difference, but I would still like to get another opinion.

Second question, will one bottle of EK's premix (900mL) be enough for the whole loop (considering I'll have two SE 360s)? I will be ordering two bottles no matter what, but I would just like to know.

[W-L]

On 18/08/2018 at 4:17 AM, slavic_pixel said:

I got another two questions so if @MkaiL or someone else can help out. 

Since I need to buy some other non watercooling related things, I was thinking to save 20 bucks by buying two 360 SE rads and not one SE and one PE 360. Will there be a noticeable difference? As far as I was on Google, only about 5% difference, but I would still like to get another opinion.

Second question, will one bottle of EK's premix (900mL) be enough for the whole loop (considering I'll have two SE 360s)? I will be ordering two bottles no matter what, but I would just like to know.

For thicker vs thinner rads you won't see a huge difference compare to length which you have more than enough already. As for fluid a single bottle should do, doesn't hurt to get two though just in case you run short and it can always keep for next time when you do a fluid change. 

[Motifator]

Two thick enough 240 rads will be more than suffice, you don't need dual 360 for that setup at all. I'd also get the full nickel version of that CPU waterblock.

[slavic_pixel]

5 hours ago, W-L said:

For thicker vs thinner rads you won't see a huge difference compare to length which you have more than enough already. As for fluid a single bottle should do, doesn't hurt to get two though just in case you run short and it can always keep for next time when you do a fluid change. 

Thought so, but wanted to ask anyway.

 

 

5 hours ago, Motifator said:

Two thick enough 240 rads will be more than suffice, you don't need dual 360 for that setup at all.

I already have six 120mm fans so it's kinda late for that. Also I know I don't need dual 360 for this setup, but I want it to be kinda overkill. lol

 

 

5 hours ago, Motifator said:

I'd also get the full nickel version of that CPU waterblock.

Esthetic reasons or? Because I kinda like more the cooper base one.

[MkaiL]

On 18/8/2018 at 10:17 AM, slavic_pixel said:

Since I need to buy some other non watercooling related things, I was thinking to save 20 bucks by buying two 360 SE rads and not one SE and one PE 360. Will there be a noticeable difference? 

Second question, will one bottle of EK's premix (900mL) be enough for the whole loop (considering I'll have two SE 360s)? I will be ordering two bottles no matter what, but I would just like to know.

2 x 360 slim rads should still be more than enough since you got basically a 360 rad per component. I personally use a slim 360 + 240 (I do use hardwarelabs gts rads which perform slightly better than ek se rads) for the same setup + motherboard vrm's and highest my cpu or gpu gets is 55°C, and that's with low rpm fans. 

 

A single bottle for this kind of setup is usually enough but you might need the second bottle to top off the reservoir. My own loop takes one bottle (900ml) + 200ml from the second bottle. 

 

4 hours ago, slavic_pixel said:

Esthetic reasons or? Because I kinda like more the cooper base one.

He probably means the full nickel blocks, where the top is also nickel instead of acrylic. The ek acrylic tops usually crack very easily if you over tighten the baseplate or fittings.

[slavic_pixel]

19 hours ago, MkaiL said:

2 x 360 slim rads should still be more than enough since you got basically a 360 rad per component.

Yeah, I thought about that, but just wanted to be sure that I wouldn't regret going with the slim version.

 

19 hours ago, MkaiL said:

A single bottle for this kind of setup is usually enough but you might need the second bottle to top off the reservoir. My own loop takes one bottle (900ml) + 200ml from the second bottle. 

I was going to buy two bottles anyway. Also, a quick question with these premixes. Since I'll be only running the blood red premix from EK since my whole build is black and red themed aka won't be changing the fluid color, when I change the fluid, should I clean the loop first with some distilled water and then put the new premix or can I just put the new premix after draining the old one?

 

19 hours ago, MkaiL said:

He probably means the full nickel blocks, where the top is also nickel instead of acrylic.

Like this one? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel

 

19 hours ago, MkaiL said:

The ek acrylic tops usually crack very easily if you over tighten the baseplate or fittings.

I've seen that couple of times so I already know that I have to be gentle with it. I'm willing to take the risk because, in my opinion, the one with acrylic top looks so much better.

Also thought of another question. For the beginner, is it better to buy two boxes of the tubing or one box will do fine? Since it's flexible tubing, I feel like there's less opportunities to screw up unlike with hardline tubing, but then again, everything is possible.

[Limecat86]

1 hour ago, slavic_pixel said:

Like this one? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel

Also thought of another question. For the beginner, is it better to buy two boxes of the tubing or one box will do fine? Since it's flexible tubing, I feel like there's less opportunities to screw up unlike with hardline tubing, but then again, everything is possible.

Yes, that one I guess. Personally I prefer the acrylic/nickel blocks. Thing with nickel plated copper is that it doesn't oxidize easily. Bare copper blocks do unfortunately. Do do not confuse it with corrosion though. Oxidation won't hurt your water cooling loop nor it's performance but does effect aesthetics though...

 

As for the box of tubing... 3 meters should be more than enough.

[slavic_pixel]

57 minutes ago, Limecat86 said:

Yes, that one I guess. Personally I prefer the acrylic/nickel blocks. Thing with nickel plated copper is that it doesn't oxidize easily. Bare copper blocks do unfortunately. Do do not confuse it with corrosion though. Oxidation won't hurt your water cooling loop nor it's performance but does effect aesthetics though...

Really? I didn't know that. Would then this one https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-nickel be better in your opinion?

[Limecat86]

10 minutes ago, slavic_pixel said:

Really? I didn't know that. Would then this one https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-nickel be better in your opinion?

Yes, as your GPU block is nickel too.

[slavic_pixel]

51 minutes ago, Limecat86 said:

Yes, as your GPU block is nickel too.

Alright. Thanks for the tip. I'll go with the nickel one then. 

[slavic_pixel]

On 8/3/2018 at 1:23 PM, MkaiL said:

Yes that's the extender and cap I mentioned. You'll need 2 extenders (for the valve and for the t-splitter) and at least 1 cap for the valve, your res and gpu block should come with some basic silver caps but I replaced them with black ones since all my fittings are black. You could replace the t-splitter for a y-splitter and eliminate one of the extenders.  (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-y-splitter-rotary-2f-1m-g1-4-black). The motherboard vrm might work if you use a 90° adapter, but it's up to you ofc. I have the same motherboard and I did cool mine.

Just have another question about extenders.

 

If I got it right, they are mostly used between two G1/4 female threads? So basically, in my case, I will need to use only one between the ball valve and the y-splitter? So on the other end of the ball valve I can put a normal fitting and connect a tube for an easier draining, no need for extender? Of course, when I'm not draining, there'll be a cap on the other end of the valve.

 

Also these angled adapters, after I put one in the block, I need to put the normal fitting in the G1/4 female thread, not the extender, right?

 

Sorry for asking so many questions, these fittings are little confusing and since it's my first loop, I don't want anything to go wrong. lol