PSU fan replacement

[Blazth]

Hello, recently I've bought Xigmatek Taurus m+ 700w and it makes a lot of noise. It just disturbs me and I've replaced it with my old psu's fan which is 10 years old. But still, It's not came to a level that I'm comfortable with.

Here is the link to the psu= http://www.xigmatek.com/product_detail.php?item=20

Can I just buy Nanoxia Deep Silence 140mm 1400 RPM 16.2dB case fan and replace it with this? Will it be quieter?

Case fan= https://www.quietpc.com/na-ds-140
Or do you have any other fan suggestion for me?

 

Thanks.

[Blazth]

Already bought the fan, it will take a week for the fan to arrive. If you guys see this, a guide link on how to mount this to my psu would be so O.K. or you could just tell me how to do it since it has 3 or 4 pins and psu fans have 2 pins. How do I know which one is which? Have a nice one.

[Vacras]

First of all I don’t recommend that you open up a Psu ever. There are large voltages at play that are very capable of killing you. 

 

Sice you seem to have tinkered with it already though ... 

make sure you turn off the Psu and unplug it a few days prior to you disassembling it as the capacitors can store the power pretty long and could discharge if you touch them.

 

Now for your actual question: 

if your Psu just hast a 2 pin connector one of the pins will be a 12v line (red cable usually) the other the ground (black). 

3 pin fans have an additional pin for rpm read outs (yellow)

 

2 & 3 pin fans are controlled via voltage directly whereas 4 pin have an additional line for the control signal.

 

You need to connect the 12v of the fan to the 12v of the Psu and ground to ground that’s it. 

A 4 pin fan won’t be controllable however and will turn at full speed no matter what.

[Stefan Payne]

2 hours ago, Blazth said:

Xigmatek Taurus m+

That doesn't look like total garbage but not a great one either...

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4759/xigmatek_tauro_700_watt_power_supply_review/index4.html

 

but why buy an oversized high wattage PSU when you don't really need it?

And you got the wrong fan!

With the one you got, the PSU might catch fire due to overheating!

And other stuff as well!

 

 

And you loose all safety certificates wich means if something goes wrong, you are responsible and with one foot in Jail....

 

 

So why not count your losses and get a PSU you really need??

[Blazth]

24 minutes ago, Vacras said:

First of all I don’t recommend that you open up a Psu ever. There are large voltages at play that are very capable of killing you. 

 

Sice you seem to have tinkered with it already though ... 

make sure you turn off the Psu and unplug it a few days prior to you disassembling it as the capacitors can store the power pretty long and could discharge if you touch them.

 

Now for your actual question: 

if your Psu just hast a 2 pin connector one of the pins will be a 12v line (red cable usually) the other the ground (black). 

3 pin fans have an additional pin for rpm read outs (yellow)

 

2 & 3 pin fans are controlled via voltage directly whereas 4 pin have an additional line for the control signal.

 

You need to connect the 12v of the fan to the 12v of the Psu and ground to ground that’s it. 

A 4 pin fan won’t be controllable however and will turn at full speed no matter what.

Well ok, good to know that and I will use gloves while doing that..

[Blazth]

6 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

That doesn't look like total garbage but not a great one either...

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4759/xigmatek_tauro_700_watt_power_supply_review/index4.html

 

but why buy an oversized high wattage PSU when you don't really need it?

And you got the wrong fan!

With the one you got, the PSU might catch fire due to overheating!

And other stuff as well!

 

 

And you loose all safety certificates wich means if something goes wrong, you are responsible and with one foot in Jail....

 

 

So why not count your losses and get a PSU you really need??

Man It was the only available one in the store. Yeah and what do you mean Jail? And why it will overheat? It makes a lot of noise now. I"ve calculated with coolermaster's psu calculator and it says that I should get a 650w+ psu. I have an amd fx 8120 and a r9 290x and bunch of other stuff. When I fill it all in to the calculator It says exactly that I must have that one. Now why it will catch fire? It doesn't have a safety measure that turns itself off?

[Stefan Payne]

1 minute ago, Blazth said:

And why it will overheat? It makes a lot of noise now.

Yes and that's why it will overheat!
Because the airflow isn't sufficient -> less Airflow = higher temperatures.

And if it is down enough, it will overheat and might even burn!

 

Don't forget we are talking about Power Electronics!
Those things are specified close to 200°C Operating temperature!!

So with the old leaded solder, they could desolder themselve!

 

1 minute ago, Blazth said:

I"ve calculated with coolermaster's psu calculator

Calculators are bullshit and grossly overestimate the power consumption.

Depending on how badly you use them (=how much you did input), the worse it gets.

It can be as much as 100% of what you actually need...

 

1 minute ago, Blazth said:

and it says that I should get a 650w+ psu.

...and here we have the Problem.

650W is the most useless Wattage...

You only need that much if we are talking about high end desktop with highest end cards or suicide sledgehammer overclocking with some components...

 

1 minute ago, Blazth said:

I have an amd fx 8120 and a r9 290x and bunch of other stuff.

If you don't overclock and use it as intended, a good 450W is enough, 400W might be cutting it close but still better to get a good, new one in that range than a used overwattage.

Especially if its loud as yours seem to be....

 

1 minute ago, Blazth said:

When I fill it all in to the calculator It says exactly that I must have that one.

Yes and you believed that Piece of Junk instead of looking for Measurements of the System with the Card...

Just look here, power consumption of whole System with a CPU that consumes even more than the FX8150
https://www.anandtech.com/show/7457/the-radeon-r9-290x-review/19

 

Or just the Card:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-r9-290x-hawaii-review,3650-29.html

That doesn't look to bad now does it?
185W in the 'Normal Mode'. And look at your card! Its entirely possible that you have a Switch somewhere at the side (near the display ports) and can switch to a performance or lower power/noise BIOS.

 

1 minute ago, Blazth said:

Now why it will catch fire? It doesn't have a safety measure that turns itself off?

No, not all PSU have overtemperature protection or working one at all.

That's what the "EVGA B3 Thing" was about.

And that's why it is possible that the PSU could catch fire.

 

Because you are replacing the fan with a slower one wich the PSU wasn't intended or designed for -> increased heat, lower lifetime and so on.

And because power electronics is specified to somewhere around 200°C and that can case some materials to catch fire...

[Blazth]

10 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

Yes and that's why it will overheat!
Because the airflow isn't sufficient -> less Airflow = higher temperatures.

And if it is down enough, it will overheat and might even burn!

 

Don't forget we are talking about Power Electronics!
Those things are specified close to 200°C Operating temperature!!

So with the old leaded solder, they could desolder themselve!

 

Calculators are bullshit and grossly overestimate the power consumption.

Depending on how badly you use them (=how much you did input), the worse it gets.

It can be as much as 100% of what you actually need...

 

...and here we have the Problem.

650W is the most useless Wattage...

You only need that much if we are talking about high end desktop with highest end cards or suicide sledgehammer overclocking with some components...

 

If you don't overclock and use it as intended, a good 450W is enough, 400W might be cutting it close but still better to get a good, new one in that range than a used overwattage.

Especially if its loud as yours seem to be....

 

Yes and you believed that Piece of Junk instead of looking for Measurements of the System with the Card...

Just look here, power consumption of whole System with a CPU that consumes even more than the FX8150
https://www.anandtech.com/show/7457/the-radeon-r9-290x-review/19

 

Or just the Card:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-r9-290x-hawaii-review,3650-29.html

That doesn't look to bad now does it?
185W in the 'Normal Mode'. And look at your card! Its entirely possible that you have a Switch somewhere at the side (near the display ports) and can switch to a performance or lower power/noise BIOS.

 

No, not all PSU have overtemperature protection or working one at all.

That's what the "EVGA B3 Thing" was about.

And that's why it is possible that the PSU could catch fire.

 

Because you are replacing the fan with a slower one wich the PSU wasn't intended or designed for -> increased heat, lower lifetime and so on.

And because power electronics is specified to somewhere around 200°C and that can case some materials to catch fire...

Ok so I should have got a 450w or 500w psu at the first place.

 

So here is what I have if you'd like to talk about what else is wrong on in my case:

 

*First of all, a modular psu which I got just yesterday, the due psu,

*amd fx 8120 with turbo clock on which sometimes goes up to 4.0ghz. Which I think is OK cos I play games,

*Sapphire R9 290TriX without OC

*2x7200rpm sata drive

*an ssd

*2x8gb ddr3 ram

*Aio cooler for cpu

*Msi 970a sli krait edition mobo

*Asus xonar dg 5.1 pci sound card

an optical drive

*7x120mm fans one of them is placed in the middle of the case cos it overheats a lot idk why.. Thermal paste is ok and no dust..

 

Ok I'll cancel my order in a sec but can you recommend me to buy an another quieter "suitable for the job" one? I still want to do it.. I can provide the exact model of the fan and the rpm of it.. Just neet to disassemble it once more.

 

I've added a photo of my setup so you can see the madness here.

 

So what do you think?

[Vacras]

47 minutes ago, Blazth said:

Well ok, good to know that and I will use gloves while doing that..

That won’t be enough I’m afraid 

be really carefull you wouldn’t be the first to die from a Psu

[Blazth]

28 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

quote

And umm it says XILENCE on the picture.. That's my old psu's box. I mounted it to the new one cos the old one had a removable enclosure. It was making this woooo sound due to that enclosure which was this;

 

Spoiler

 

And please look at the stock fan which taurus m+ 700W has;

 

Spoiler

 

Should I just use my old psu though.. It looks better with a huge heatsink and other complicated stuff. That was 700 watt too and it was generating much lower noise. But it's 10 years old ffs;
 

Spoiler

 

[Stefan Payne]

1 hour ago, Blazth said:

And umm it says XILENCE on the picture..

Yeah, but wich one?
how old is it? Due to the Black cables it doesn't seem that old...

 

Xilence had a wide variety of PSU from utter garbage to not bad.

 

Quote

Should I just use my old psu though.. It looks better with a huge heatsink and other complicated stuff. That was 700 watt too and it was generating much lower noise. But it's 10 years old

I don't know. Because I don't know what Xilence you have right now. So I can't say...

Some Xilence are pretty good, some are not...

 

But what I can say for sure is that you got a lemon/dud and wasted a lot of money for something that isn't what you want/need and wasn't even good when it came out...

 

Don't bother with the Xigmatek (and don't ever look at them again, they don't have many good PSU, most are pretty meh at best).

The fan is shit, low quality and at least 1500, probably more like 2000rpm...

[Stefan Payne]

1 hour ago, Blazth said:

Ok I'll cancel my order in a sec but can you recommend me to buy an another quieter "suitable for the job" one? I still want to do it.. I can provide the exact model of the fan and the rpm of it.. Just neet to disassemble it once more.

Where do you live, what's available?

 

The usual stuff would be:
be quiet Pure Power 500W 

Bitfenix Formula 550W

Cougar GX-F 550W

Bitfenix Whisper M 550W

 

Sorted by price and quality. The upper ones should be less expensive - if not, get the next one...

[Blazth]

15 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

Where do you live, what's available?

 

The usual stuff would be:
be quiet Pure Power 500W 

Bitfenix Formula 550W

Cougar GX-F 550W

Bitfenix Whisper M 550W

 

Sorted by price and quality. The upper ones should be less expensive - if not, get the next one...

So.. The old psu was actualy from my old case Lian-li pc-k62 700W: I've checked the model of old xilence psu which was included with the case, and it's that one;

 

Spoiler

 

xilence xp700 .. So which one is better? 

Meanwhile I'm looking up for what you've suggested

 

Edit: Only bequiet psu is available on google search from where I live: Turkey.

[awesomegamer919]

11 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

No, not all PSU have overtemperature protection or working one at all.

That's what the "EVGA B3 Thing" was about.

And that's why it is possible that the PSU could catch fire.

B3 has working OTP, the issue was the fucked OPP...

 

The G3 on the other hand, well...

 

Quote

OTP is set very high in our opinion, since we had to apply a huge thermal load on the secondary side to trigger it. The bulk cap's external casing nearly melted during our OTP evaluation.

 

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-850-g3-psu,4930-6.html