PC Build in-progress (Should I make any changes?)

[plurkner]

Decided to build a PC.  I know only of what I have seen from YouTube vids and with the information I have gathered I think this is a nice build.  pcpartpicker.com says that this is a compatible build, but I'd prefer a set of human eyes to review the build. https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator says that my "load wattage" or continuous wage is estimated to be 311 W and it recommends that my power supply be at least 361 W.  This is pretty much just with everything in my build paired with the usual peripherals and a USB microphone.  The site also recommends a specific EVGA 500 W power supply, which I think may be unecessary, but then again, I don't have experience with building PCs.  I'm told that it's good if I want to make upgrades later on that it would be good to have the extra voltage, but I live with my dad atm and I just want to draw as close to the amount of power necessary for the build without cutting it too close so the power bill doesn't skyrocket.  Therefore, I chose a 400 W power supply.  Let me know if you think I should change that, or anything else with my build.  

 

CPU:  AMD RYZEN 3 1300X 4-Core 3.5 GHz (3.7 GHz Turbo) Socket AM4 65W YD130XBBAEBOX Desktop Processor

CPU fan:  DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT-CPU Cooler Die-casting Top Cover Synchronized RGB Housing and Fan AURA Sync Metal Mounting Kit Support LGA 2066 / AM4   

Motherboard:  GIGABYTE GA-AB350-GAMING 3 (rev. 1.0) AM4 AMD B350 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard

GPU:  MSI GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 GTX 1060 GAMING X 6G 6GB 192-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready ATX Video Card

RAM:  G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Intel Z170 Platform / Intel X99 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-2400C15D-8GVR

Storage:  SAMSUNG 860 EVO Series 2.5" 250GB SATA III 3D NAND Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-76E250B/AM / WD Blue 2TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 5400 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD20EZRZ

Power Supply:  PC Power & Cooling Silencer Series 400 Watt 80+ Bronze Semi-Modular Active PFC Industrial Grade ATX PC Power Supply (PPCMK3S400)

Case:  Phanteks Eclipse P400S PH-EC416PSTG_BW Silent Edition Black/White Tempered Glass/Steel RGB ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

 

 

[anoor9000]

Please link the PCPartpicker build in the thread.

 

In regards to power supplies, you always want a good quality unit with MORE power than your system will draw. I would say the minimum wattage for your PSU should be 550W. Second, you need a good quality unit. The unit you listed is not very high quality and it is over priced. 

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438095&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

 

$20 rebate as well.

 

The wattage of a power supply is not how much it will draw, it' the amount possible it CAN draw. it will still draw the same power with a 1000000W PSU or a 150W PSU. the only way your power bill would go up is if you were mining or something. He will not notice a power bill increase if you're just gaming a few hours a day. 

[anoor9000]

Also, your HDD is only 5400 RPM and not 7200. 

 

Get this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKG402/

[brob]

You can use pcpartpicker.com to assemble your list. It will provide basic compatibility checking along with a maximum power estimate. Using its [bb] button, one can copy an paste a nicely formatted list in a post.

 

Corsair CX450M (2015) is a better psu choice for the build.

 

[plurkner]

Sorry, everyone.  Should've just linked it before.  Here it is https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nb6TJ8. 

[plurkner]

16 hours ago, anoor9000 said:

Also, your HDD is only 5400 RPM and not 7200. 

 

Get this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKG402/

As of now, I have removed the HDD because of your suggestion.  I'm still iffy on using Seagate HDDs because it appears that they have a reputation of sending dead-on-arrival hard drives from what I'm seeing online.  But it looks like the one you mentioned is OK for right now.  

 

13 hours ago, brob said:

You can use pcpartpicker.com to assemble your list. It will provide basic compatibility checking along with a maximum power estimate. Using its [bb] button, one can copy an paste a nicely formatted list in a post.

 

Corsair CX450M (2015) is a better psu choice for the build.

 

So...450 W vs. 550 W?  anoor what are the odds that I'm going to be in danger of my components attempting to draw above a 400 W or 450 W capacity?  If I'm just gaming for around a few hours each day what is the danger?  I mean other than the fan blowing harder since it is closer to peak load, is there any danger of frying it when my estimated continuous load is only a little over 300 W and the power supply calculator says that 360 something is the recommended minimum PSU wattage for my build.  It just seems like everyone has drastically different opinions on wattage so I just wanna know why you think that extra wattage is justified.  Is it just for safety or does it actually have an additional power efficiency benefit?

[brob]

Based on 80+ efficiency curves, optimal efficiency is at roughly half capacity. As a result there is a camp that believes the maximum draw calculation should be just above 50% capacity. In my opinion, what that group does not take into account are the facts that systems tend to spend most of the powered on time well below maximum draw and, especially for 80+ Bronze units, draws under 20% capacity can be well outside the rated efficiency.

 

On the other hand, it is quite difficult to find high quality units below 550W and I think pretty much impossible below 450W.

 

 

 

 

[plurkner]

5 hours ago, brob said:

Based on 80+ efficiency curves, optimal efficiency is at roughly half capacity. As a result there is a camp that believes the maximum draw calculation should be just above 50% capacity. In my opinion, what that group does not take into account are the facts that systems tend to spend most of the powered on time well below maximum draw and, especially for 80+ Bronze units, draws under 20% capacity can be well outside the rated efficiency.

 

On the other hand, it is quite difficult to find high quality units below 550W and I think pretty much impossible below 450W.

 

 

 

 

Thanks.  Linus said something like 10%-20% above the maximum power draw load in one of his videos which is why I was confused.  Thanks for clearing that up.  Kind of sucks that there hasn't been investment in making higher quality low wattage PSUs.   

[brob]

1 minute ago, plurkner said:

Thanks.  Linus said something like 10%-20% above the maximum power draw load in one of his videos which is why I was confused.  Thanks for clearing that up.  Kind of sucks that there hasn't been investment in making higher quality low wattage PSUs.   

Lower gpu power requirements are a relatively new phenomena. There is a Seasonic Focus Gold 450W model. I suspect other manufacturers will start providing competing offerings in the next few years.

 

[plurkner]

On 5/6/2018 at 12:43 PM, anoor9000 said:

Also, your HDD is only 5400 RPM and not 7200. 

 

Get this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKG402/

So I'm actually looking at this one.  https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236624&ignorebbr=1  Seems people trust WD more than Seagate and this is apparently a high-performance hard drive.  Supposedly some high performance HDDs are louder and that's because it's reading things faster?  Some people say their WDs are quiet and others say they almost can be heard from across the room.  Seems to be just a lot of variation in terms of quality assurance for HDDs.  But from what I can tell WD is above Seagate so...is this also a suitable HDD or is there any reason why you wouldn't think this would work as well if not better?  I'd rather just stick with WD Blue but they don't have a 2TB 7200 RPM in that line.