First-timer hardline drain issues....

[Lathlaer]

Looks fine to me, just remember to route the green one (CPU) in such way that the tube leading from the Res/Pump is leaving you enough space to swap the RAM if need be and you're good.

 

I think the tube leading from GPU to the Radiator top inlet is your potentially weakest point - it's the longest of them all without support from the bottom. Make sure it's extra snug and tight when you install it.

[Xynnoath]

5 hours ago, Lathlaer said:

Looks fine to me, just remember to route the green one (CPU) in such way that the tube leading from the Res/Pump is leaving you enough space to swap the RAM if need be and you're good.

 

I think the tube leading from GPU to the Radiator top inlet is your potentially weakest point - it's the longest of them all without support from the bottom. Make sure it's extra snug and tight when you install it.

Thank you for the ram reminder, I completely forgot about that.....

 

for the gpu to res piece, do you have any suggestions to how I could strengthen that piece?

[Lathlaer]

44 minutes ago, Xynnoath said:

Thank you for the ram reminder, I completely forgot about that....

No problem, I just finished troubleshooting my PC and boy was I glad that I could swap the RAM without dismantling the loop

 

45 minutes ago, Xynnoath said:

 

for the gpu to res piece, do you have any suggestions to how I could strengthen that piece?

Sorry, apart from using quality fittings there is really nothing you can do. You will need to take into account that all fittings have some play in them and because of that the 90 degree long connection can sag a bit once it's filled with running fluid. I'm just pointing out that this connection can be potentially more important than the one between your front rad and the top of the reservoir. 

 

The only thing that comes to mind is the total ghetto mode, aka using some kind of invisible string to support it. But you shouldn't need it. If you cut the tubing to good size (not too long vertically) and snug it good with a quality compression fitting, you should be fine. I have similar bend in my build and it's fine without any support so it can be done ;-)

[Xynnoath]

12 hours ago, Lathlaer said:

No problem, I just finished troubleshooting my PC and boy was I glad that I could swap the RAM without dismantling the loop

 

Sorry, apart from using quality fittings there is really nothing you can do. You will need to take into account that all fittings have some play in them and because of that the 90 degree long connection can sag a bit once it's filled with running fluid. I'm just pointing out that this connection can be potentially more important than the one between your front rad and the top of the reservoir. 

 

The only thing that comes to mind is the total ghetto mode, aka using some kind of invisible string to support it. But you shouldn't need it. If you cut the tubing to good size (not too long vertically) and snug it good with a quality compression fitting, you should be fine. I have similar bend in my build and it's fine without any support so it can be done ;-)

I spent a few hours last night trying to figure out different ways to route the tubing and I couldn’t figure out anything for that run from gpu to rad that didn’t look absolutely ridiculous....? 

 

But here is what it looks like! Going to fill it in a bit for the leak test. Do I really need to test it for 24 hours? I feel like a couple hours would suffice honestly.....

[W-L]

Just now, Xynnoath said:

I spent a few hours last night trying to figure out different ways to route the tubing and I couldn’t figure out anything for that run from gpu to rad that didn’t look absolutely ridiculous....? 

 

But here is what it looks like! Going to fill it in a bit for the leak test. Do I really need to test it for 24 hours? I feel like a couple hours would suffice honestly.....

Ideally you want to leak test for a day, and to monitor it once things warm up to ensure nothing changes due to the temperature. 

 

Also for the front rad with the ports being at the top you still will need to move the system around to get rid of the water.

[Xynnoath]

2 minutes ago, W-L said:

Ideally you want to leak test for a day, and to monitor it once things warm up to ensure nothing changes due to the temperature. 

 

Also for the front rad with the ports being at the top you still will need to move the system around to get rid of the water.

So if I flipped the radiator before I fill it and redo those two runs, would u still be able to run my pump intake all the way up and to the top of my res? Or is that too much tubing for the section? 

 

I guess as long as the rest of the loop drains efficiently I wouldn't have an issue popping those connections off and removing that one radiator to empty and flush it properly.

[W-L]

1 minute ago, Xynnoath said:

So if I flipped the radiator before I fill it and redo those two runs, would u still be able to run my pump intake all the way up and to the top of my res? Or is that too much tubing for the section? 

 

I guess as long as the rest of the loop drains efficiently I wouldn't have an issue popping those connections off and removing that one radiator to empty and flush it properly.

As long as you have enough tubing sections that are long enough tubing length is not an issue. That will help to drain the front rad as long as you relocate the drain, however due to the way you run the tubing your still going to have to move the system around in any kind of situation.

 

I would suggest to just leave it and when draining the tilt the case to remove some of the fluid from the front rad. Since it's up front and not near the boards or GPU there is less fear of a spill. 

[Xynnoath]

11 minutes ago, W-L said:

As long as you have enough tubing sections that are long enough tubing length is not an issue. That will help to drain the front rad as long as you relocate the drain, however due to the way you run the tubing your still going to have to move the system around in any kind of situation.

 

I would suggest to just leave it and when draining the tilt the case to remove some of the fluid from the front rad. Since it's up front and not near the boards or GPU there is less fear of a spill. 

I see. If you were going to be building the loop on my computer, how would you route the tubing differently? 

[W-L]

Just now, Xynnoath said:

I see. If you were going to be building the loop on my computer, how would you route the tubing differently? 

If you wanted for ease of draining the loop you can flip the rad around and run the tubing to the bottom of the res/pump unit and place the drain in between the two. That will remove as much fluid as possible, but you will still need to move the system around to get rid of the last bit.

 

Personally I wouldn't have touch anything and drain the system and moved it around to do so. 

[Xynnoath]

Ahh ok! How do the bends look? Prior to this project I've never done anything in the lines of bending piping or tubing of any sort. No mandrels used, just off sight.

[W-L]

2 minutes ago, Xynnoath said:

Ahh ok! How do the bends look? Prior to this project I've never done anything in the lines of bending piping or tubing of any sort. No mandrels used, just off sight.

They look good you should use a bending mandrel however to ensure the tube doesn't close in on itself. 

[Xynnoath]

I used a silicone insert to prevent that 

[W-L]

Just now, Xynnoath said:

I used a silicone insert to prevent that 

Oh bending guides or radius blocks, I was referring the mandrel as the insert itself. Those guides help mainly for getting consistent radius's on all the bends.

[Lathlaer]

Good. Can't sacrifice the whole look of the system, otherwise what is the point of hardline tubing ;-)

5 hours ago, Xynnoath said:

I spent a few hours last night trying to figure out different ways to route the tubing and I couldn’t figure out anything for that run from gpu to rad that didn’t look absolutely ridiculous...