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Hello all,

 

I'm having trouble orienting my USB 3.0 header in my latest mini ITX build.

 

image.jpg?x=1000&y=1000&ex=1000&ey=1000&

 

My problem lies in the fact that the USB 3.0 header is directly below the socket and that I'm using a wide cooler. That combined with the fact the the USB 3.0 female connector is long and the double wires are generally stiff, makes it that I can't connect the USB 3.0 header without a bit of ingenuity.

 

image.png.663db4ac5ac77e7189da41665a5b36e9.png

 

Specs : 

- GB H170N-WIFI

- I5 7600k

- Rajintek Pallas

- EVGA 500B

- GSkill Ripjaws V 2400MHz (had to take off the HS in order for it to fit under the Pallas)

- CM Elite 110

- MX300 525GB M.2

- 2x WD black 1TB

 

My Rajintek Pallas is currently oriented with the extra width going downwards. It can't really be any other way. Left and top interferes with the case, and right make the 24pin impossible to connect.

aHR0cDovL21lZGlhLmJlc3RvZm1pY3JvLmNvbS9H

 

OK, so I'm thinking I need to use a right angle USB 3.0 19pin header female to male but it has to go either down or to the right. I did not find any. Alternatively, I could wire myself a flexible extension consisting of 19 small gauge wires to be able to connect the connector in a same location. This should still be pretty tricky seeing the number of pins I need to connect in the correct order, without a short.

 

So here are the two things I need help with :

 

1- Can anyone refer me to a link where I can find the exact adapter I need ?

 

2- Can Dupont connectors work with the USB 3.0 header ? (female on the motherboard header and male in the case connector)

Any advice on wiring my own extension ?

 

Any other related advice ?

 

 

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https://linustechtips.com/topic/912849-usb-30-header-inteference/
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3 minutes ago, Virgule said:

Any other related advice ?

I would personally get a different cooler.

Quote or tag me( @Crunchy Dragon) if you want me to see your reply

If a post solved your problem/answered your question, please consider marking it as "solved"

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https://www.moddiy.com/products/90-Degree-Angled-USB-3.0-19%2dPin-20%2dPin-Internal-Header-Mini-Connector.html

also cablemod makes cable extensions with right angles

(but yeah there are other, better coolers too. do that if possible tbh)

Main Rig: R9 5950X @ PBO, RTX 3090, 64 GB DDR4 3666, InWin 101, Full Hardline Watercooling

Server: R7 1700X @ 4.0 GHz, GTX 1080 Ti, 32GB DDR4 3000, Cooler Master NR200P, Full Soft Watercooling

LAN Rig: R5 3600X @ PBO, RTX 2070, 32 GB DDR4 3200, Dan Case A4-SFV V4, 120mm AIO for the CPU

HTPC: i7-7700K @ 4.6 GHz, GTX 1050 Ti, 16 GB DDR4 3200, AliExpress K39, IS-47K Cooler

Router: R3 2200G @ stock, 4GB DDR4 2400, what are cases, stock cooler
 

I don't have a problem...

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5 minutes ago, tarfeef101 said:

https://www.moddiy.com/products/90-Degree-Angled-USB-3.0-19%2dPin-20%2dPin-Internal-Header-Mini-Connector.html

also cablemod makes cable extensions with right angles

(but yeah there are other, better coolers too. do that if possible tbh)

That adapter would not work as it would be oriented towards the CPU socket.

 

edt: ok, just noticed there is a Type A and Type B.

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Google around for something different then, get a cablemod adapter so you can move the cable around the heatsink, or just get a better cooler that removes the issue as well, tbh

Main Rig: R9 5950X @ PBO, RTX 3090, 64 GB DDR4 3666, InWin 101, Full Hardline Watercooling

Server: R7 1700X @ 4.0 GHz, GTX 1080 Ti, 32GB DDR4 3000, Cooler Master NR200P, Full Soft Watercooling

LAN Rig: R5 3600X @ PBO, RTX 2070, 32 GB DDR4 3200, Dan Case A4-SFV V4, 120mm AIO for the CPU

HTPC: i7-7700K @ 4.6 GHz, GTX 1050 Ti, 16 GB DDR4 3200, AliExpress K39, IS-47K Cooler

Router: R3 2200G @ stock, 4GB DDR4 2400, what are cases, stock cooler
 

I don't have a problem...

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7 minutes ago, Virgule said:

Any other related advice ?

I think @tarfeef101 has it best (you don't have to pick the one they linked, but that's the best approach to take), but take this build as experience next time you're going into SFF builds.

 

When I was planning my current one, I wouldn't consider Gigabyte's boards because all of them put the USB 3.0 header where it is on your board. I knew that would cause potential problems with CPU coolers. So I had to look elsewhere.

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2 minutes ago, M.Yurizaki said:

I think @tarfeef101 has it best (you don't have to pick the one they linked, but that's the best approach to take), but take this build as experience next time you're going into SFF builds.

 

When I was planning my current one, I wouldn't consider Gigabyte's boards because all of them put the USB 3.0 header where it is on your board. I knew that would cause potential problems with CPU coolers. So I had to look elsewhere.

I chose components for this build with what I found good deals on in local ads. I would have chosen different components if I had double the budget and bought all new. I ended up paying half price for the lot when compared to new value and the downside is I have to scratch my head a bit. I'm not worried about my experience. 

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6 minutes ago, tarfeef101 said:

Google around for something different then, get a cablemod adapter so you can move the cable around the heatsink, or just get a better cooler that removes the issue as well, tbh

I'm looking more for a solution that can be applied without changing components and with a bit of elbow grease and ingenuity than a recommendation for better components. tbh

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1 minute ago, Virgule said:

I'm looking more for a solution that can be applied without changing components and with a bit of elbow grease and ingenuity than a recommendation for better components. tbh

Start cutting out some fins on the heat sink and route the cable through that.

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1 minute ago, Virgule said:

I'm looking more for a solution that can be applied without changing components and with a bit of elbow grease and ingenuity than a recommendation for better components. tbh

well, that cooler is not great. doubt it was free, so that's why we suggested not using it. hell you could even use the stock heatsink if you have one lying around without performance losses

otherwise, see if the cablemod cable is more flexible. take a heatgun to your 3.0 cable and try not to melt it, and bend it around the heatsink. make your own adapter with pins and a plastic block like from the link i posted, but going the other direction. check aliexpress/ebay if one exists already, they got everything. 

or mod the heatsink as mentioned above. but then i really question if getting that heatsink is really worth it at all

Main Rig: R9 5950X @ PBO, RTX 3090, 64 GB DDR4 3666, InWin 101, Full Hardline Watercooling

Server: R7 1700X @ 4.0 GHz, GTX 1080 Ti, 32GB DDR4 3000, Cooler Master NR200P, Full Soft Watercooling

LAN Rig: R5 3600X @ PBO, RTX 2070, 32 GB DDR4 3200, Dan Case A4-SFV V4, 120mm AIO for the CPU

HTPC: i7-7700K @ 4.6 GHz, GTX 1050 Ti, 16 GB DDR4 3200, AliExpress K39, IS-47K Cooler

Router: R3 2200G @ stock, 4GB DDR4 2400, what are cases, stock cooler
 

I don't have a problem...

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Just now, M.Yurizaki said:

Start cutting out some fins on the heat sink and route the cable through that.

I prefer buying a 9$ adapter (or wire it myself) than do a hacksaw job that'll end up looking like trash and be a source of potential metal debris.

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1 minute ago, Virgule said:

I prefer buying a 9$ adapter (or wire it myself) than do a hacksaw job that'll end up looking like trash and be a source of potential metal debris.

Then there's your answer.

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Just now, tarfeef101 said:

well, that cooler is not great. doubt it was free, so that's why we suggested not using it. hell you could even use the stock heatsink if you have one lying around without performance losses

Unfortunately I do not. That cooler might not be good but from what I see it's well built and will peform much better than a stock one.

otherwise, see if the cablemod cable is more flexible. take a heatgun to your 3.0 cable and try not to melt it, and bend it around the heatsink. make your own adapter with pins and a plastic block like from the link i posted, but going the other direction. check aliexpress/ebay if one exists already, they got everything. 

Great advice above!

or mod the heatsink as mentioned above. but then i really question if getting that heatsink is really worth it at all

 

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1 minute ago, Virgule said:

That cooler might not be good but from what I see it's well built and will peform much better than a stock one.

But what makes it better than a noctua nh-l9i, cryorig C7, and other things that are all basically the same?

Also even still, those are only marginally better than stock tbh

Main Rig: R9 5950X @ PBO, RTX 3090, 64 GB DDR4 3666, InWin 101, Full Hardline Watercooling

Server: R7 1700X @ 4.0 GHz, GTX 1080 Ti, 32GB DDR4 3000, Cooler Master NR200P, Full Soft Watercooling

LAN Rig: R5 3600X @ PBO, RTX 2070, 32 GB DDR4 3200, Dan Case A4-SFV V4, 120mm AIO for the CPU

HTPC: i7-7700K @ 4.6 GHz, GTX 1050 Ti, 16 GB DDR4 3200, AliExpress K39, IS-47K Cooler

Router: R3 2200G @ stock, 4GB DDR4 2400, what are cases, stock cooler
 

I don't have a problem...

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1 minute ago, tarfeef101 said:

But what makes it better than a noctua nh-l9i, cryorig C7, and other things that are all basically the same?

Also even still, those are only marginally better than stock tbh

Nothing! Probably worse! I'm trying to make things work with what I have.

 

A 8700k should also be much better than my 7600k. Another motherboard could have better USB3.0 header placement. etc.etc.etc.

I can find 30 things that could be better than what I found good deals on.

 

You suggested a good easy, non-invasive solution that doesn't require tearing up that notebook and starting over. I'm just looking to complete a build that will be used by my MIL for Excel and Chrome for years to come, for the lowest budget possible. Not looking to compete in a build log contest. Just want to connect the last remaining wire.

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1 minute ago, Virgule said:

Nothing! Probably worse! I'm trying to make things work with what I have.

 

- Snip -

 

You suggested a good easy, non-invasive solution that doesn't require tearing up that notebook and starting over. I'm just looking to complete a build that will be used by my MIL for Excel and Chrome for years to come, for the lowest budget possible. Not looking to compete in a build log contest. Just want to connect the last remaining wire.

I didn't mine were that easy or cheap tbh. I have no context, to be fair, but this seems like a new build. Where your cooler is still able to be returned. The other coolers mentioned (and i'm sure other can provide many more) wouldn't be more expensive than an adapter, tbh. 

and you can get a stock intel heatsink for free if you live near someone like me who has a bunch, or super cheap at least (local computer stores, ebay, craigslist/kijiji). there are also tons of things that are basically stock heatsinks that go for like 10 bucks (saw a price drop on pcpartpicker this morning for a cooler master equivalent).

not suggesting you do anything ridiculous.

Main Rig: R9 5950X @ PBO, RTX 3090, 64 GB DDR4 3666, InWin 101, Full Hardline Watercooling

Server: R7 1700X @ 4.0 GHz, GTX 1080 Ti, 32GB DDR4 3000, Cooler Master NR200P, Full Soft Watercooling

LAN Rig: R5 3600X @ PBO, RTX 2070, 32 GB DDR4 3200, Dan Case A4-SFV V4, 120mm AIO for the CPU

HTPC: i7-7700K @ 4.6 GHz, GTX 1050 Ti, 16 GB DDR4 3200, AliExpress K39, IS-47K Cooler

Router: R3 2200G @ stock, 4GB DDR4 2400, what are cases, stock cooler
 

I don't have a problem...

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2 minutes ago, tarfeef101 said:

I didn't mine were that easy or cheap tbh. I have no context, to be fair, but this seems like a new build. Where your cooler is still able to be returned. The other coolers mentioned (and i'm sure other can provide many more) wouldn't be more expensive than an adapter, tbh. 

and you can get a stock intel heatsink for free if you live near someone like me who has a bunch, or super cheap at least (local computer stores, ebay, craigslist/kijiji). there are also tons of things that are basically stock heatsinks that go for like 10 bucks (saw a price drop on pcpartpicker this morning for a cooler master equivalent).

not suggesting you do anything ridiculous.

I bought that cooler for 20CAD and I thought :

 

"hey, it's a good looking, seemingly well-built ITX cooler that should perform better than a stock one and I don't have a stock one. Also, none came with this 7600k I bought for dirt-cheap"

 

Additional context : I plug in that wire and can hand this build over (i.e. I'm done and everyone's happy)

 

As you suggested, I'll try to heat up the connector and try to make it take a bit of a sharper turn. If it doesn't work, I'll buy that 10$ adapter or wire one myself.

 

Can anyone give me a bit of insight on my 2nd question, if this comes to that ? (see OP)

Spoiler

 

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2 minutes ago, Virgule said:

I bought that cooler for 20CAD and I thought :

 

"hey, it's a good looking, seemingly well-built ITX cooler that should perform better than a stock one and I don't have a stock one. Also, none came with this 7600k I bought for dirt-cheap"

 

Additional context : I plug in that wire and can hand this build over (i.e. I'm done and everyone's happy)

 

As you suggested, I'll try to heat up the connector and try to make it take a bit of a sharper turn. If it doesn't work, I'll buy that 10$ adapter or wire one myself.

 

Can anyone give me a bit of insight on my 2nd question, if this comes to that ? (see OP)

Well if you can return it, you can get something for equal or less that solves your issue.

If you don't want to though, yeah, dupont should be fine. some modding sites sell dupont male connectors and female housings+cables just for this kind of stuff

Main Rig: R9 5950X @ PBO, RTX 3090, 64 GB DDR4 3666, InWin 101, Full Hardline Watercooling

Server: R7 1700X @ 4.0 GHz, GTX 1080 Ti, 32GB DDR4 3000, Cooler Master NR200P, Full Soft Watercooling

LAN Rig: R5 3600X @ PBO, RTX 2070, 32 GB DDR4 3200, Dan Case A4-SFV V4, 120mm AIO for the CPU

HTPC: i7-7700K @ 4.6 GHz, GTX 1050 Ti, 16 GB DDR4 3200, AliExpress K39, IS-47K Cooler

Router: R3 2200G @ stock, 4GB DDR4 2400, what are cases, stock cooler
 

I don't have a problem...

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4 minutes ago, tarfeef101 said:

Well if you can return it, you can get something for equal or less that solves your issue.

If you don't want to though, yeah, dupont should be fine. some modding sites sell dupont male connectors and female housings+cables just for this kind of stuff

I have all the wiring materials already, just wanted to confirm that those where Dupont connectors as well. Thanks for the help.

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Just now, Virgule said:

I have all the wiring materials already, just wanted to confirm that those where Dupont connectors as well. Thanks for the help.

np. best of luck!

Main Rig: R9 5950X @ PBO, RTX 3090, 64 GB DDR4 3666, InWin 101, Full Hardline Watercooling

Server: R7 1700X @ 4.0 GHz, GTX 1080 Ti, 32GB DDR4 3000, Cooler Master NR200P, Full Soft Watercooling

LAN Rig: R5 3600X @ PBO, RTX 2070, 32 GB DDR4 3200, Dan Case A4-SFV V4, 120mm AIO for the CPU

HTPC: i7-7700K @ 4.6 GHz, GTX 1050 Ti, 16 GB DDR4 3200, AliExpress K39, IS-47K Cooler

Router: R3 2200G @ stock, 4GB DDR4 2400, what are cases, stock cooler
 

I don't have a problem...

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7 hours ago, Virgule said:

-SNIP-

You can get a low profile extension and bend it around your components. 

https://www.moddiy.com/products/USB-3.0-20%2dPin-Internal-Header-Adapter-Cable-(Low-Profile-Connector).html

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On 4/4/2018 at 11:31 AM, Virgule said:

Hello all,

 

I'm having trouble orienting my USB 3.0 header in my latest mini ITX build.

 

image.jpg?x=1000&y=1000&ex=1000&ey=1000&

 

My problem lies in the fact that the USB 3.0 header is directly below the socket and that I'm using a wide cooler. That combined with the fact the the USB 3.0 female connector is long and the double wires are generally stiff, makes it that I can't connect the USB 3.0 header without a bit of ingenuity.

 

image.png.663db4ac5ac77e7189da41665a5b36e9.png

 

Specs : 

- GB H170N-WIFI

- I5 7600k

- Rajintek Pallas

- EVGA 500B

- GSkill Ripjaws V 2400MHz (had to take off the HS in order for it to fit under the Pallas)

- CM Elite 110

- MX300 525GB M.2

- 2x WD black 1TB

 

My Rajintek Pallas is currently oriented with the extra width going downwards. It can't really be any other way. Left and top interferes with the case, and right make the 24pin impossible to connect.

aHR0cDovL21lZGlhLmJlc3RvZm1pY3JvLmNvbS9H

 

OK, so I'm thinking I need to use a right angle USB 3.0 19pin header female to male but it has to go either down or to the right. I did not find any. Alternatively, I could wire myself a flexible extension consisting of 19 small gauge wires to be able to connect the connector in a same location. This should still be pretty tricky seeing the number of pins I need to connect in the correct order, without a short.

 

So here are the two things I need help with :

 

1- Can anyone refer me to a link where I can find the exact adapter I need ?

 

2- Can Dupont connectors work with the USB 3.0 header ? (female on the motherboard header and male in the case connector)

Any advice on wiring my own extension ?

 

Any other related advice ?

 

 

My advice is wire it to a male connector so you aren’t left with a soldering mess in the socket if things go south. 

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