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Hey all!

So I have a system planned that I'll be building in Q1 2018 (delayed, since I'd like to wait and scope out Zen 2) and I have been planning on using this:

 

https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Graphics-Cards/Accessories/70033-MCA-U000R-KFVK00?gclid=CjwKCAiAsejRBRB3EiwAZft7sIw1gKs7ZLcRz7BCEsFoDyQongZfIm_7sqS2CQstHYjEaJxonXFZERoCHYYQAvD_BwE

 

to mount an Asus 1060 6GB Strix Gaming in a Mastercase Pro 5 since that vertical bracket and riser were designed specifically for this case. However, I realised that my router is in a different room to where the PC will be, and since I only have one ADSL socket in my house (in the room where the router is currently) I would have to run an ethernet cable through the ceiling. I can't do this for many reasons I won't bore you with. This means I need to get a wifi card.

 

I am aware that the CM Vertical Mount takes up all the expansion slots on the Mastercase Pro 5, so that won't work. Given that I would like to mount the GPU vertically while also having a wifi card in there somewhere, I need to find any way to do this. So, are there any methods for doing this (DIY being a last resort) in this case that would allow me to mount a graphics card vertically while also having a PCI-E wifi card. I'd also like to avoid GPU sag in any way possible (why I chose the CM mount originally, it fully supports the card).

 

If it helps, the motherboard is an Asus ROG Strix X370-F.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

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maybe you can buy an M.2 card (like the ones pre-installed on on ITX MoBos)?

 

If  you really want PCI-E, the PCI-E slot problem can be solved by buying another PCI-E riser cable. But you still need a case slot to mount it properly.

 

why not USB as a last resort

 

-------

 

edit: or you know just buy an X370 ITX board with WiFi builtin ahahaha you'll be covering the PCI-E anyhow so virtually, you'll only be losing RAM slots.

Karamo

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CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 3600 | CPU Cooler: Wraith Stealth | GPU: Gigabgyte AORUS GeForce RTX 2070 Super | Motherboard: MSI B450M Mortar Max | RAM: G.Skill FlareX 2x8GB 3200MHz CL16 | SSD: ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro M.2 256GB | HDD: 1TB 2.5" Western Digital Blue (WD10SPZX) | Case: NZXT H510 | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit |

 

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5 minutes ago, Noyu said:

maybe you can buy an M.2 card (like the ones pre-installed on on ITX MoBos)?

 

Never heard of those, I'll look into them thanks!

5 minutes ago, Noyu said:

why not USB as a last resort

 

In general they seem to be unreliable and slow, and I also have a lot of peripherals so I can't afford to fill one with a wifi adapter.

6 minutes ago, Noyu said:

edit: or you know just buy an X370 ITX board with WiFi builtin ahahaha you'll be covering the PCI-E anyhow so virtually, you'll only be losing RAM slots.

Nah. Just nah. :P 

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

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My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

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Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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WIFI cards are so thin and light you could just remove the PCIe bracket and plug the card into the slot. the force of the slot is usually enough to just hold it in. i used to do thiw with a pretty heavy Plextor M6e PCIe SSD in my Folding rig :P

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4 minutes ago, RollinLower said:

WIFI cards are so thin and light you could just remove the PCIe bracket and plug the card into the slot. the force of the slot is usually enough to just hold it in. i used to do thiw with a pretty heavy Plextor M6e PCIe SSD in my Folding rig :P

Interesting, but the vertical mount blocks all the expansion slots. Not to mention the vertical card would get in the way. I think I may have found a solution in getting an M.2 card and plugging an antenna into it. Thanks for the help though, that could definitely be useful in any future builds I do that might not have vertical GPUs. :) 

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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Why not trying something like this. I used them and work really nice. All you need is an extra power wall plug near router and one near your PC. Plug them in and then plug the Ethernet cable in the router and PC respectively. Could be like 1m of Ethernet cable so isn't too messy.

10283095.jpg

CPU: Ryzen 7 2700x, Cooling: Corsair H100i Platinum AIO MOBO: Asus Strix B450 F GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080 Founders Edition + Arctic Accelero Xtreme III RAM: 2x8GB ThermalTake ToughRAM White 3200MHz PSU: Corsair RM850x White Storage: 250GB Samsung 970 Evo NVMe CASE: Corsair 275r Airflow White OTHER: White and Orange Cable Extensions ---- MONITOR: Samsung LC32JG5 32" WQHD 1440p VA 144Hz

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Just now, r3loAded said:

Why not trying something like this. I used them and work really nice. All you need is an extra power wall plug near router and one near your PC. Plug them in and then plug the Ethernet cable in the router and PC respectively. Could be like 1m of Ethernet cable so isn't too messy.

 

I actually was just reading up on that now! :) Sounds like the solution I need. Do you have a specific model that you would recommend, or should I just shop around?

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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Just now, JaegerB said:

I actually was just reading up on that now! :) Sounds like the solution I need. Do you have a specific model that you would recommend, or should I just shop around?

I couldn't help you with that as I had experience with only one model that worked perfectly (I had it for free). But TPLink ones should do the trick. Do a "google scientific research" and see how people interacted with different models.

CPU: Ryzen 7 2700x, Cooling: Corsair H100i Platinum AIO MOBO: Asus Strix B450 F GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080 Founders Edition + Arctic Accelero Xtreme III RAM: 2x8GB ThermalTake ToughRAM White 3200MHz PSU: Corsair RM850x White Storage: 250GB Samsung 970 Evo NVMe CASE: Corsair 275r Airflow White OTHER: White and Orange Cable Extensions ---- MONITOR: Samsung LC32JG5 32" WQHD 1440p VA 144Hz

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Just now, r3loAded said:

I couldn't help you with that as I had experience with only one model that worked perfectly (I had it for free). But TPLink ones should do the trick. Do a "google scientific research" and see how people interacted with different models.

Will do, thanks. I have no idea how they could get internet to go through the powerlines, networking is all magic to me!

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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Just now, JaegerB said:

Will do, thanks. I have no idea how they could get internet to go through the powerlines, networking is all magic to me!

With these ones it's not through powerlines. They communicate wirelessly. You plug them into power wall so that it has power to run the wireless part. Press a button and pairing starts.

CPU: Ryzen 7 2700x, Cooling: Corsair H100i Platinum AIO MOBO: Asus Strix B450 F GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080 Founders Edition + Arctic Accelero Xtreme III RAM: 2x8GB ThermalTake ToughRAM White 3200MHz PSU: Corsair RM850x White Storage: 250GB Samsung 970 Evo NVMe CASE: Corsair 275r Airflow White OTHER: White and Orange Cable Extensions ---- MONITOR: Samsung LC32JG5 32" WQHD 1440p VA 144Hz

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7 minutes ago, JaegerB said:

Will do, thanks. I have no idea how they could get internet to go through the powerlines, networking is all magic to me!

My bad. They do communicate through powerline.

 

I have the exact model in the picture attached. Not the best one around but does the job.

 

As an example, I had 7mbps download speed with it and now I have integrated wifi in the motherboard and reached 12mbps download.

extender.JPG

CPU: Ryzen 7 2700x, Cooling: Corsair H100i Platinum AIO MOBO: Asus Strix B450 F GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080 Founders Edition + Arctic Accelero Xtreme III RAM: 2x8GB ThermalTake ToughRAM White 3200MHz PSU: Corsair RM850x White Storage: 250GB Samsung 970 Evo NVMe CASE: Corsair 275r Airflow White OTHER: White and Orange Cable Extensions ---- MONITOR: Samsung LC32JG5 32" WQHD 1440p VA 144Hz

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1 hour ago, r3loAded said:

As an example, I had 7mbps download speed with it and now I have integrated wifi in the motherboard and reached 12mbps download.

 

Yeah, I have heard about reduced download speed. I think I'll look into it. Next year my home will be connected to Australia's fiber optic network, so I'll be interested to see what speed I get from that, and whether or not a reduction through powerline would make a massive difference. 

 

I reckon I might start with an m.2 wireless card and attached antenna, and if that's intermittent or significantly poorer quality than my directly connected devices, I'll look into powerline as it costs a fair bit more than a wifi setup (here in Australia at least).

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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