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My new, revised build.

Attona

So, I made a post on the forum earlier

 

and i took in the feedback from the post, and messed with a lot of things in my build. So, i'm gonna put up both my old build, and new build up here, and see if I can get some new feedback, and get an even better system.

 

Old Build, with reasons for buying:

 

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($189.99 @ Amazon) - This cpu needs no introduction.
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($59.99 @ Newegg) - one of the cheapest motherboards at the time that was full ATX.
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($74.99 @ Newegg) - Cheap.
Storage: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($137.99 @ Amazon) - Boot SSD, and maybe for storing some games that i play frequently.
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($41.77 @ OutletPC) - Mass storage.
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card  ($279.99 @ SuperBiiz) - Yes, i chose this one, because I'm going for a white build.
Case: NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz) - Aesthetics.
Power Supply: Corsair - Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($49.99 @ Amazon) - Fairly cheep, and allows for upgrades in the future.
Monitor: Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor  ($99.00 @ Amazon) - I don't need anything higher quality than this for now.
Keyboard: G.Skill - Ripjaws KM570 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard  ($99.99 @ Newegg) - I wanted a keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches.
Mouse: Corsair - M65 PRO RGB FPS Wired Optical Mouse  ($49.96 @ Amazon) - RGB.
Other: Cloud9 Chair Maxnomic ($399.00) - I just want this. There's no good justification for it.
Total: $1547.65

 

New Build, with reasons for buying/switching:

 

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor  ($219.58 @ OutletPC) - The preformance is worth the extra cash.
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($49.44 @ Newegg Marketplace) - Sense the 1600x doesn't come with a cooler, i thought this would make for a good cooler for overclocking.
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 KILLER SLI/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($123.98 @ Newegg) - It's compatible with crossfire, which i am planning on later.
Memory: Team - Vulcan 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($85.99 @ Newegg) - Better clocked kit.
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($127.89 @ OutletPC) - Faster ssd, even though it holds less.
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.89 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB GAMING X Video Card  ($304.87 @ OutletPC) - Crossfire compatible
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz) - I decided, sense i'm buying the core parts of the system from the red team, i should do a red buld.
Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($49.99 @ Newegg) - More wattage, same price
Monitor: LG - 24MP59G-P 23.8" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor  ($149.00 @ Amazon) - Crossfire compatible
Keyboard: Razer - Blackwidow Tournament Edition Stealth Wired Gaming Keyboard  (Purchased For $0.00) - I got this for from a friend
Mouse: Corsair - Harpoon RGB Wired Optical Mouse  (Purchased For $0.00) I got this for from a friend
Total: $1237.62
 

So, please tell me what you think!

Had a custom pc, but I traded it for a Razer Blade 15 with a RTX 2070

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1 minute ago, phongle123 said:

The monitor in the build is 75 Hz out of the box, and i'm willing to pay the extra for that, plus i thing the LG option looks better.

Had a custom pc, but I traded it for a Razer Blade 15 with a RTX 2070

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Just now, Attona said:

The monitor in the build is 75 Hz out of the box, and i'm willing to pay the extra for that, plus i thing the LG option looks better.

Overclocking is just a few simple clicks. You're paying 149$ for a 1080p monitor when this 1440p monitor is 130$. Well, in the end its your choice. I'm just here to help you get the best bang for your buck.

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Just now, phongle123 said:

Overclocking is just a few simple clicks. You're paying 149$ for a 1080p monitor when this 1440p monitor is 130$. Well, in the end its your choice. I'm just here to help you get the best bang for your buck.

I'm adding it to the build as we speak, lol. Didn't see it was 1440p

Had a custom pc, but I traded it for a Razer Blade 15 with a RTX 2070

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You like overclocking? You don't need the 1600X. The 1600 can be easily OCed with unnoticeable difference and on the stock cooler. It's simply a waste to buy a low-quality AIO when for ~$80 less you can get near-identical performance and a good quality cooler.

 

Not to mention, 120mm AIOs generally have identical or lower performance compared to tower heatsink coolers, and there are simply more components to fail or damage other components.

 

8GB is barely enough these days, so when you upgrade to 16GB you'll need to buy the exact same stick otherwise dual channel won't work.

 

The 960 evo has faster file transfer speeds compared to the 580 and other ssds, but boot and load times for games are identical. It's expensive and won't perform better at gaming than cheaper SSDs. You're better off going for a larger capacity 850 evo or other SSD.

45 minutes ago, Attona said:

Crossfire

Any form of multi-gpu (be it crossfire or sli) is simply a bad idea right now. It's only useful if you have a high-end GPU like a 1080 Ti where the only way to get more power is with another card. Not to mention that many games have utilisation issues with multi-gpu setups and that will screw with performance. A single 1070 or 1080 will outperform dual 580s.

 

You don't need 750W, and as I said above since you shouldn't be using crossfire 550W or 650W at maximum is enough. Additionally, going with a lower wattage (i.e. 550) frees up budget for a better quality PSU such as a RMx or RMi Gold rated PSU that actually has good cable management.

 

Overall OP, with the exception of what I've mentioned, your other choices are good. Enjoy building your PC, hope I could help! 

P.S., about the feedback that someone in your last thread gave, saying the 1060 was overkill for 1080p 60hz, it really isn't. And even if it is right now, it won't be in 1-2 years. You should be sticking with 1080p for now.

33 minutes ago, phongle123 said:

Overclocking is just a few simple clicks. You're paying 149$ for a 1080p monitor when this 1440p monitor is 130$. Well, in the end its your choice. I'm just here to help you get the best bang for your buck.

That's not bang for buck. OP's system has a 580 and a 1600. They will have great difficulty getting more than 30-40 fps on AAA titles, as their hardware just isn't up to the task. In the end they can really only run in 1080p with this hardware, so they are better off spending 20 dollars more for a lot better-made monitor that they can actually use.

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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16 minutes ago, JaegerB said:

That's not bang for buck. OP's system has a 580 and a 1600. They will have great difficulty getting more than 30-40 fps on AAA titles, as their hardware just isn't up to the task. In the end they can really only run in 1080p with this hardware, so they are better off spending 20 dollars more for a lot better-made monitor that they can actually use.

Sigh, another one of these comments. Jim buys a Honda Civic. But Jim wouldn't dare bring it to the track since its only a 4 cylinder and not at least a Corvette.

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2 minutes ago, phongle123 said:

Sigh, another one of these comments. Jim buys a Honda Civic. But Jim wouldn't dare bring it to the track since its only a 4 cylinder and not at least a Corvette.

What on earth are you talking about? Cars ≠ PCs. He simply wouldn't have a desirable gaming experience, with low fps in a lot of AAA titles and upcoming titles. Not to mention the fact that the monitor you've recommended lacks freesync and isn't as good quality as the 1080p monitor that OP has found himself.

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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19 hours ago, JaegerB said:

You like overclocking? You don't need the 1600X. The 1600 can be easily OCed with unnoticeable difference and on the stock cooler. It's simply a waste to buy a low-quality AIO when for ~$80 less you can get near-identical performance and a good quality cooler.

Yes, i do plan on overclocking, however I will still go with the 1600x, just because it has the extra power out of the box, so i don't need to overclock right away.

 

19 hours ago, JaegerB said:

Any form of multi-gpu (be it crossfire or sli) is simply a bad idea right now. It's only useful if you have a high-end GPU like a 1080 Ti where the only way to get more power is with another card. Not to mention that many games have utilisation issues with multi-gpu setups and that will screw with performance. A single 1070 or 1080 will outperform dual 580s.

I do understand dual 580s will not overpower a 1080, but i'll be getting a single 580 to boot, and i'd rather buy one more 580, then spend more on a high end gpu.

 

19 hours ago, JaegerB said:

You don't need 750W

I know, but i do plan on using this power supply in any build I can, and the extra wattage will help if i ever need it, for something like a new CPU, or GPU. Even then, it might be overkill, but i'm fine with that.

 

19 hours ago, JaegerB said:

That's not bang for buck. OP's system has a 580 and a 1600. They will have great difficulty getting more than 30-40 fps on AAA titles, as their hardware just isn't up to the task. In the end they can really only run in 1080p with this hardware, so they are better off spending 20 dollars more for a lot better-made monitor that they can actually use.

Now that i think about it, you're probably right. Besides, the monitor he mentioned is on sale, and not usually this cheap, so it might go up when i go to buy it. And i would probably benefit from freesync more than i would 1440p.

 

 

I will revise my build, and post it very soon.

Had a custom pc, but I traded it for a Razer Blade 15 with a RTX 2070

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Newest revision, with revision reasons:

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor  ($219.58 @ OutletPC) - Same.
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Pure Rock Slim 35.1 CFM CPU Cooler  ($21.49 @ SuperBiiz) - I can probably get better performance, and sound from this.
Motherboard: MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($96.98 @ Newegg) - Cheaper board.
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($165.99 @ Newegg) - Upgrade to 16 gigs.
Storage: SanDisk - Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($79.99 @ Amazon) - Roughly same size, and i wouldn't really benefit from anything higher speed.
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.89 @ OutletPC) - Same.
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB GAMING X Video Card  ($304.87 @ OutletPC) - Same.
Case: NZXT - H440 (Matte Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($84.99 @ Newegg) - I just kinda like this case better.
Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($49.99 @ Newegg) - Same.
Monitor: LG - 24MP59G-P 23.8" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor  ($149.00 @ B&H) - Same.
Total: $1219.77
 

@JaegerB

Had a custom pc, but I traded it for a Razer Blade 15 with a RTX 2070

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2 hours ago, Attona said:

*snip*

Look, it's certainly better. If you OC, the Pure Rock Slim might not quite be up to the task, and you'd be certain to have good OCing with a Hyper 212 Evo or something similar. 

 

Other than that, I can't really make you not buy dual 580s or a plain 1600, it's your money in the end. Overall this build should deliver all the performance you want, and more. Good luck building, and welcome to the PCMR! :)

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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I guess no one suggested posting a pcpartpicker formatted list or permalink.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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22 hours ago, brob said:

I guess no one suggested posting a pcpartpicker formatted list or permalink.

I'm not sure how to post a pcpartpicker formatted list, but i have the permalink

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Attona/saved/Kjsm8d

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor  ($219.58 @ OutletPC) 
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($19.99 @ Newegg) 
Motherboard: MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($96.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($165.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: SanDisk - Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($79.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.89 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB GAMING X Video Card  ($308.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: NZXT - H440 (Matte Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($84.99 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($49.99 @ Newegg) 
Monitor: LG - 24MP59G-P 23.8" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor  ($149.00 @ B&H) 
Total: $1222.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-12-07 23:45 EST-0500

Had a custom pc, but I traded it for a Razer Blade 15 with a RTX 2070

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@Attona,

 

Excellent. Thank you.

 

Using faster memory has already been suggested. You might go with a dual channel kit, 2x8GB instead of a single 16GB stick.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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3 minutes ago, brob said:

@Attona,

 

Excellent. Thank you.

 

Using faster memory has already been suggested. You might go with a dual channel kit, 2x8GB instead of a single 16GB stick.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor  ($219.58 @ OutletPC) 
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($19.99 @ Newegg) 
Motherboard: MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($96.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($179.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: SanDisk - Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($79.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.89 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB GAMING X Video Card  ($308.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: NZXT - H440 (Matte Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($84.99 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($49.99 @ Newegg) 
Monitor: LG - 24MP59G-P 23.8" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor  ($149.00 @ B&H) 
Total: $1236.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-12-08 00:01 EST-0500

Had a custom pc, but I traded it for a Razer Blade 15 with a RTX 2070

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