GPU fans borked?

[AlexisWiiu]

Afternoon.

 

Past few months I've had an issue with my GPU. Basically the fans will ramp up and down every 3-5 seconds when idle. I have a Galax 980Ti HOF that was purchased new in 2015. Not really easy to see but the fan RPM goes like this -> https://gyazo.com/c4c2e67998869dcd7a959eaa8a0146fc. Setting custom fan curves with several applications does not seem to make any difference. It ranges between 600-2000 rpm, and it's really annoying to listen to while trying to work.

I have tried pulling the card out of the MOBO and setting it back in, checking the 8 pin connectors(card takes 2), but with no luck so far. What I do notice however is that in applications like MSI Afterburner it reports the fans being at 40% or whatever I set the curve to, but the RPM keeps fluctuating. 

 

Looking at the GPU while this is happening I have a theory that the Card is somehow not able to get the middle fan(it's a 3 fan card) running like it should. It appears as if the fan in the middle slows down a bit, which causes the left and right fan to ramp up to catch up, until the middle fan gets back to it's original state(It's easy to tell that the fan is spinning much slower before the others ramp up). The PC boots with only the left and right fans spinning on the GPU, once it enters Windows it starts it's tormenting. There does not seem to be anything physical hindering the middle fan from spinning as I am able to spin it just as fine as the others when taking the card out. This leaves me to think that there's a power delivery issue to the middle fan, and that this is most likely something I will not be able to resolve on my own. I've not been able to test it with a different system/PSU. Currently running this:

7700k

ASRock B150 Pro4

8GB Corsair DDR4

EVGA 650 BQ

 

Edit: Looking further into it the fans only seem to have major spikes below 50 degrees C. -> https://gyazo.com/9b20a5aac8116a970b8029d2067626cc where it stops fluctuating is roughly around where my card hit 50C at 50% load.

 

 

Any inputs/possible solutions are highly appreciated.

[Majestic]

So does the RPM actually go up (the average) when you set a new static fanspeed in Afterburner?

Can you maybe post a afterburner shot of the temperature, fanspeed% and rpm with a bit more context?

 

These snippets are pretty pointless.

[Rolling Potatoe]

You could try powering your gpu fans from your motherboard if you cannot control them plugged into the gpu...or just remove the fans/fan shroud and ziptie 2 120mm fans on it.

[asand1]

Set minimum fan speed to 32% in Afterburner.

[AlexisWiiu]

On 10/31/2017 at 3:04 PM, Majestic said:

So does the RPM actually go up (the average) when you set a new static fanspeed in Afterburner?

Can you maybe post a afterburner shot of the temperature, fanspeed% and rpm with a bit more context?

 

These snippets are pretty pointless.

Here -> https://gyazo.com/b64c34205c856327bbf0d24adc48b69a

 

21 hours ago, asand1 said:

Set minimum fan speed to 32% in Afterburner.

Refer to link above.

[asand1]

13 minutes ago, AlexisWiiu said:

Here -> https://gyazo.com/b64c34205c856327bbf0d24adc48b69a

 

Refer to link above.

So did that work then? I know the gigabyte Windforce GTX 960 had an issue with fans cycling, and setting minimum speed between 30 and 40% stopped ir.

[Majestic]

33 minutes ago, AlexisWiiu said:

Here -> https://gyazo.com/b64c34205c856327bbf0d24adc48b69a

Yeah something mechanically or electrically is broken. However it can be a multiple or reasons. The PWM controller can be broken at 2 stages, either it's sending a faulty PWM or the powerstage is broken. There could be one busted fan that is throwing off the tacho-feedback whilst the other fans are still running good. But as you mentioned one of the fans is visibly slowing down, your assumption may be more plausible. Since they share a feedback (tacho) it could very well throw off the motorspeed controller and correct for the error.

Are they all plugged in seperately? You could try unplugging it, or cutting the wire (if you are capable or soldering it back afterwards). 

 

To verify which of the parts is faulty, you're going to have to hook up a scope and visibly inspect all the signals. (tacho, PWM, etc).