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Car audio related topic.

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On 8/25/2017 at 7:11 PM, R3ep3r said:

An ALPINE SWT-12S4, 12" subwoofer, 300W RMS, Maximum 1000w(peak probably) that can go from 28 to 25khz(which is awesome) and works on 4 ohms.

28 - 200 Hz you mean, 25Khz is ultrasonic :)

 

Both seem too cheap if you want the good stuff. But if you're on a budget:

I'd go for the Alpine amplifier if I had to choose between those two. Alpine is a known, reputable brand and they offer full technical details in the manual - such as it being a class A/B amplifier and having a 50-250Hz low pass filter you need for your sub. 130W is enough for a good base when listening normally to music, but it won't be a boomcar, if that's your aim. At least I'd expect the alpine to effectively deliver that stated power, which you should not assume to be true for lesser known brands, talk is cheap.

The crunch on the other hand seems too cheap (I find them for 70 euros, where the alpine costs double), is a rather unknown brand, and not so forthcoming about technical specifications. I can't find the topology used anywhere for example, but the statement of -3db @ 50khz might indicate the cutoff point of a class D LC filter ? One can only guess.

Seems too cheap for a decent class D, which requires substantial magnetics (on top off the boost-converter magnetics), and high quality PCB layout - altough if it's only for a sub, where some distortion/switching noise is not noticable, you might get away with it.

Considering they're hiding technical details such as topology, are lesser know, might be (probably are) lying about the output power, etc - I'd get the alpine.

Hi there fellow users. 

I've decided to post here because I didn't see any car audio topic or some threads related to vehicles. 

I am planning to upgrade my vehicle's audio system, already composed of a Sony DSX A200UI headunit and some Sony speakers, 16,5cm(rear) and 13cm(front).

The major upgrade consists in installing an amplifier (2 channel one that will be bridged) and a subwoofer. I already decided which subwoofer will it be. An ALPINE SWT-12S4, 12" subwoofer, 300W RMS, Maximum 1000w(peak probably) that can go from 28 to 25khz(which is awesome) and works on 4 ohms.

Now the thing is, I want an amplifier that will have enough power to output to the subwoofer. 

And now since I am pretty low on budget, I took a look over two amps. One Alpine BBX-T600(2 chan) that only outputs 130w bridged at 4 ohms and a Crunch GPX 500.2 (2 chan) that could output 250w bridged at 4 ohms. The price between this two is exactly the same but I am not pretty sure on how the amps perform. Which one is better and blah-blah because I can't really find proper reviews for them.

Please give me some advice.

 || CPU: Intel i5-8600K || Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212X || Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 HD3P || GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1050ti OC Windforce 4GB || Memory: 16GB Crucial DDR4 3000mhz || HDD: WD Black 500GB + Seagate Barracuda 2TB || SSD: Samsung 980 1TB || PSU: Corsair VS550 || Case: nJoy Ice Cage || Fans: Segotep Halo Ring RGB ||Monitor: 2x Dell 27" P2717H IPS Full HD || Second Monitor/TV: LG 49UJ620V UHD || Mouse: Logitech G502 || Keyboard: Logitech G810 + Royal Kludge RK84 || Speakers: Philips SPA-5300 subw + Arylic 2.1 + DIY Bookshelves w/ Dayton Audio || Headphones: HyperX Cloud Flight S ||

 

TO BE UPGRADED:

>> Headphones << >> Keyboard << >> HDD << >> Mouse << >> PC Case << >> Memory(another stick) << >> Graphics Card << 

 

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On 8/25/2017 at 7:11 PM, R3ep3r said:

An ALPINE SWT-12S4, 12" subwoofer, 300W RMS, Maximum 1000w(peak probably) that can go from 28 to 25khz(which is awesome) and works on 4 ohms.

28 - 200 Hz you mean, 25Khz is ultrasonic :)

 

Both seem too cheap if you want the good stuff. But if you're on a budget:

I'd go for the Alpine amplifier if I had to choose between those two. Alpine is a known, reputable brand and they offer full technical details in the manual - such as it being a class A/B amplifier and having a 50-250Hz low pass filter you need for your sub. 130W is enough for a good base when listening normally to music, but it won't be a boomcar, if that's your aim. At least I'd expect the alpine to effectively deliver that stated power, which you should not assume to be true for lesser known brands, talk is cheap.

The crunch on the other hand seems too cheap (I find them for 70 euros, where the alpine costs double), is a rather unknown brand, and not so forthcoming about technical specifications. I can't find the topology used anywhere for example, but the statement of -3db @ 50khz might indicate the cutoff point of a class D LC filter ? One can only guess.

Seems too cheap for a decent class D, which requires substantial magnetics (on top off the boost-converter magnetics), and high quality PCB layout - altough if it's only for a sub, where some distortion/switching noise is not noticable, you might get away with it.

Considering they're hiding technical details such as topology, are lesser know, might be (probably are) lying about the output power, etc - I'd get the alpine.

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2 hours ago, Unimportant said:

28 - 200 Hz you mean, 25Khz is ultrasonic :)

 

Both seem too cheap if you want the good stuff. But if you're on a budget:

I'd go for the Alpine amplifier if I had to choose between those two. Alpine is a known, reputable brand and they offer full technical details in the manual - such as it being a class A/B amplifier and having a 50-250Hz low pass filter you need for your sub. 130W is enough for a good base when listening normally to music, but it won't be a boomcar, if that's your aim. At least I'd expect the alpine to effectively deliver that stated power, which you should not assume to be true for lesser known brands, talk is cheap.

The crunch on the other hand seems too cheap (I find them for 70 euros, where the alpine costs double), is a rather unknown brand, and not so forthcoming about technical specifications. I can't find the topology used anywhere for example, but the statement of -3db @ 50khz might indicate the cutoff point of a class D LC filter ? One can only guess.

Seems too cheap for a decent class D, which requires substantial magnetics (on top off the boost-converter magnetics), and high quality PCB layout - altough if it's only for a sub, where some distortion/switching noise is not noticable, you might get away with it.

Considering they're hiding technical details such as topology, are lesser know, might be (probably are) lying about the output power, etc - I'd get the alpine.

I will totally go for the Alpine one.

 || CPU: Intel i5-8600K || Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212X || Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 HD3P || GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1050ti OC Windforce 4GB || Memory: 16GB Crucial DDR4 3000mhz || HDD: WD Black 500GB + Seagate Barracuda 2TB || SSD: Samsung 980 1TB || PSU: Corsair VS550 || Case: nJoy Ice Cage || Fans: Segotep Halo Ring RGB ||Monitor: 2x Dell 27" P2717H IPS Full HD || Second Monitor/TV: LG 49UJ620V UHD || Mouse: Logitech G502 || Keyboard: Logitech G810 + Royal Kludge RK84 || Speakers: Philips SPA-5300 subw + Arylic 2.1 + DIY Bookshelves w/ Dayton Audio || Headphones: HyperX Cloud Flight S ||

 

TO BE UPGRADED:

>> Headphones << >> Keyboard << >> HDD << >> Mouse << >> PC Case << >> Memory(another stick) << >> Graphics Card << 

 

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