Need some advice for cable modding

[lsstefan]

Hey guys.

So I want to sleeve my existing EVGA B3 cables. I'm going to use Paracord 550 4mm.

Case is this:

Here are my issues:

- EVGA VGA cable is 2 in 1. I could sleeve it as it is, but I use the first connector, the last one will look out of place or if I use the second connector, the first one will not look ok all bent up. I could cut off the second part and just be left with a simple 8 pin cable. I guess I can always reattach it back to the pins. Or I could strip everything from their connectors and just bend the first set of pins along the cable and sleeve over it. But I'm not sure if it will fit inside the 4 mm sleeve or if I might cut/section the cable due to the bend. What do you recommend?

- 24 pin ATX cable is not aligned with the cable management hole. If you look at the picture, the ATX connector would be near the top hole of 3 and the hole for wires is the top hole of the 2 far right. I will not be able to get a straight pass. I'm wondering how to bend the cables in order for it to look good. I'm thinking either keep them all straight and just bend the whole ensemble down step by step or fold the cables 90 degrees down. Again with the folding I'm worried about loss of power/signal by bending the cables aggressively.

- combs...god damn combs. Cable Mods does not ship to my EU country. I found some on Amazon but their reviews are bad. I found "good" ones on Aliexpress but they are hole type, not snap in, and I can't wait another month for them in order to get the cable thru them. I'm thinking either sewing as I saw in other videos or I have some 8 mm MFD, drill holes thru it and use it as a comb? I was thinking of making a bigger one for GPU, like those double ones. My main concern is that I might drill holes too far apart. What distance should be between holes for a decent look(1-2 mm)? Will the MDF be too wide or too heavy for the cable?

edit: I guess I could buy some 2 or 4 mm Plexiglas and drill holes in it if it's better than the MDF.

 

- my cables are 2 mm thick, is 4 mm Paracord too wide?

 

I have added a drawing to show the issues on first and second lines.

Thanks for the advice,

Regards.

[unknownmiscreant]

3 hours ago, lsstefan said:

- combs...god damn combs. Cable Mods does not ship to my EU country. I found some on Amazon but their reviews are bad. I found "good" ones on Aliexpress but they are hole type, not snap in, and I can't wait another month for them in order to get the cable thru them. I'm thinking either sewing as I saw in other videos or I have some 8 mm MFD, drill holes thru it and use it as a comb? I was thinking of making a bigger one for GPU, like those double ones. My main concern is that I might drill holes too far apart. What distance should be between holes for a decent look(1-2 mm)? Will the MDF be too wide or too heavy for the cable?

edit: I guess I could buy some 2 or 4 mm Plexiglas and drill holes in it if it's better than the MDF.

I 3D printed my combs. See pic. I can't remember the exact files I used, but I should be able to unearth them if you are interested.

 

I would stay away from MDF, unless you are very good at drilling perfectly evenly spaced holes, I doubt the result would look at all pleasing (I know I'm not up to this). The same is true for plexiglass/acrylic, but to add to the issue, it is extremely brittle. In order to not completely smash the entire piece, you need to specially modify the drill bits by brassing them off (aka blunting them, sounds whacko I know, but trust me it works, and is used all over the world by professionals. (I can explain why it works if you wish.)) Even with a brassed off drill bit the holes are quite jagged and sharp. Also cutting out the remaining piece is very difficult. You need special saw blades. Wood or metal ones work but leave a terrible edge. You can use a rotary tool, but this also doesn't leave the best finished or straightest edge, and makes horrible fumes. Sorry to be a kill joy, but I thought I'd save you alot of the hassles and cost I have been through when trying to work with acrylic.

 

If you are hell bent on making your own, I would look to laser cut some 1-2mm plexiglass / acrylic. DO NOT attempt this with MDF, it will work, but the result smells utterly horrific, even after a substantial amount of time and the charred edges of the parts will ruin the aesthetics of the cables (dw, acrylic can be washed (soap and water ONLY. NEVER use alcohols/solvents), and the smell/residue is no where near as bad to begin with).

 

If you can get the laser cut ones to work, that will give the best results. I do not know what it will cost, as whenever I have needed 3D printing/laser cutting, I have borrowed school/university machines. Look up the pricing for making your own, but you may find the cheapest option is to get the Cable mod ones freight forwarded or something. I don't think cable mod ship to my country either, but there is one mail order company that sells their stuff locally.

 

As for reliability of connections, I wouldn't recommend tight 90degree bends. Loose 90s like in the example GPU picture should be fine. I would probably go with the first option on your sheet. For the GPU, you could

look for some old cables from a different EVGA PSU. My 850 G2 came with 2x daisy chain cables like you have, and 2x single 6+2 cables. I'm using both of these to power my 1070.

 

If you wish to stick with your cables, I would recommend the first option, on your hand-drawn sheet, but not quite so tight, and running the cables tucked tight up under the card(s). YOu could hot melt the cables to the card(s). Hot melt peels off very easily with a can of freeze spray.

 

Are you sleeving the default EVGA cables? If so, can you let me know how it goes, and how you plan to deal with the capacitors in the cables, as I would love to have custom sleeved cables rather than a crappy extension on the 24-pin connector, but don't have the budget for cable mod .

[lsstefan]

@unknownmiscreant Thanks for the reply.

I will try to find some 3D printing here and if it's much more expensive than Amazon/Ebay, I will risk getting it there. I did found some German modding sites, was looking for connectors, but I'll revisit them to see if they have combs.

I will do the first bend for the ATX, not that sharp of course, but I won't fold it.

I decided I will either cut or sleeve the whole daisy and see where to tuck it. My card uses 8 pin and the last 6+2 connector of the daisy is just a 6 pin with the 2 pin Y split from the 6 one. The first connector is real 6+2. I actually read somewhere that if you want to power a 2 socket GPU to not use only 1 daisy chain. So I will not use the full length cable. Either cut the daisy or tuck it somewhere. Think cut because I will never had SLI and if I ever need 2 cables to power a GPU, I will use another cable anyway, won't use the daisy.

*If you look at the picture, you can see the single pin that is the +2 of the first 6+2 and at the end is the second 6+2 where the +2 is Y split from the 6.

By tucking the GPU cable you mean like in the second part of the photo, not the first, right?(assuming the cables would go down into the shroud)

 

I will sleeve my default cables yes. The wires are 2 mm so they fit inside the sleeve. I bought 29 m of Paracord 550 for 0.5$/m. I will get some heatshrink for the front I/O connectors since I can't it inside the sleeve. The main power connectors are going to be heatshrinkless. I saw a video from a guy that had the exact cables from EVGA, he said from his knowledge and other places he read, the capacitors are for ripple suppression and won't affect the power delivery almost at all, thus no harm in removing them. He also stated that the aftermarket EVGA cables come w/o capacitors, so....

Hoping next week I will finish them, I'll see what to do about combs, cba to wait for that small thing.

 

edit: I saw the ATX has caps also, good thing they are on the hidden side. I'll prolly do like this guy did

http://www.overclock.net/t/1494167/tutorial-sleeving-evga-supernova-1300-g2-with-capacitors-and-stealth-lacing

[unknownmiscreant]

Thats a pretty sweet looking rig you got there .

 

As for the daisy chain cables, you get a bit more performance by using separate cables. Theres a JayzTwoCents vid about it (not too old).

 

As for connectors, you may be better off looking to electronics parts websites rather than PC modding. It will be harder to find, but probably much cheaper.

 

Never fold cables, that is a guaranteed way to ruin them very fast.

 

Your plan with the daisy chain cable looks solid.

 

Good luck.

[unknownmiscreant]

Also, what GPU is that?

 

You're signature says a 1060, but that card supports SLI, the RAM and case are different too. I'm guessing that system isn't the one in your signature...

[lsstefan]

Just now, unknownmiscreant said:

Also, what GPU is that?

 

You're signature says a 1060, but that card supports SLI, the RAM and case are different too. I'm guessing that system isn't the one in your signature...

That's not my rig :))

I got it off Google to ask you if you mean tucked under the GPU like in the second part because the first part might burn the cables if it sits on the backplate. That's what you meant?

[Revan654]

12 hours ago, lsstefan said:

Hey guys.

So I want to sleeve my existing EVGA B3 cables. I'm going to use Paracord 550 4mm.

Case is this:

Here are my issues:

- EVGA VGA cable is 2 in 1. I could sleeve it as it is, but I use the first connector, the last one will look out of place or if I use the second connector, the first one will not look ok all bent up. I could cut off the second part and just be left with a simple 8 pin cable. I guess I can always reattach it back to the pins. Or I could strip everything from their connectors and just bend the first set of pins along the cable and sleeve over it. But I'm not sure if it will fit inside the 4 mm sleeve or if I might cut/section the cable due to the bend. What do you recommend?

- 24 pin ATX cable is not aligned with the cable management hole. If you look at the picture, the ATX connector would be near the top hole of 3 and the hole for wires is the top hole of the 2 far right. I will not be able to get a straight pass. I'm wondering how to bend the cables in order for it to look good. I'm thinking either keep them all straight and just bend the whole ensemble down step by step or fold the cables 90 degrees down. Again with the folding I'm worried about loss of power/signal by bending the cables aggressively.

- combs...god damn combs. Cable Mods does not ship to my EU country. I found some on Amazon but their reviews are bad. I found "good" ones on Aliexpress but they are hole type, not snap in, and I can't wait another month for them in order to get the cable thru them. I'm thinking either sewing as I saw in other videos or I have some 8 mm MFD, drill holes thru it and use it as a comb? I was thinking of making a bigger one for GPU, like those double ones. My main concern is that I might drill holes too far apart. What distance should be between holes for a decent look(1-2 mm)? Will the MDF be too wide or too heavy for the cable?

edit: I guess I could buy some 2 or 4 mm Plexiglas and drill holes in it if it's better than the MDF.

 

- my cables are 2 mm thick, is 4 mm Paracord too wide?

 

I have added a drawing to show the issues on first and second lines.

Thanks for the advice,

Regards.

 

 

- I have gotten 2.4mm wiring inside 1.5mm sleeving (it's much harder to sleeve but it doable). I personally go with 6mm (MDPC-X) since I know for the fact there compatible with most Cable Combs on the market. It also makes is allot easier to feed the wire through.

- GPU cable wires are double crimped at the end which creates the 6+2 or the 8+8 or 8+6, etc... (Which can not be done by hand,  Atlease with normal OD wiring without getting some very long wing versions of Mini Fit Jr). If you do cut them off just know you might not be able to re-attach them.

- CableMod is ok for average users, I suggest looking into hand crafted cables. Mod-One & singularity computers both ship world wide.

- Also make sure you use the same pinout layout as the supplied cables. Wires are not 1:1, changing the cables can change the pin layout for the cable as well. I do suggest buying a PSU power supply tester & a Multimeter to make sure everything is up to par.

 

Doing something like this with a curve is fine:

 

 

I would not suggest having any kind of pull on the wire. It shouldn't remove the terminals from the wire, it can happen. You can also dis-form the terminal if enough force is applied.

[unknownmiscreant]

12 hours ago, lsstefan said:

That's not my rig :))

I got it off Google to ask you if you mean tucked under the GPU like in the second part because the first part might burn the cables if it sits on the backplate. That's what you meant?

Oh, okay  

 

I don't think cables melting will be a problem. The temp sensor I have just under the back plate of my overclocked 1070 never reaches above 67c. Placing a hand on the backplate while the card is under full load shows it to be hot, but nowhere near hot enough to melt cables. The temperature sensor cable shows no sign of melting (it touches the back plate and VRM cooling plate). Utterly crap cables have 85c melting points, whilst most decent cables are rated to 105c.

In the picture you posted on the GPU cables, there is some writing (too blurry to read). That should specify the max temperature of the cable. In terms of routing, just do what looks the best. I only suggested underneath, as I thought it would be easier to hide the spare connectors. It might be less likely to melt cables, but ***may*** make the card run hotter/louder.

[lsstefan]

On 8/19/2017 at 10:45 PM, Revan654 said:

 

 

- I have gotten 2.4mm wiring inside 1.5mm sleeving (it's much harder to sleeve but it doable). I personally go with 6mm (MDPC-X) since I know for the fact there compatible with most Cable Combs on the market. It also makes is allot easier to feed the wire through.

- GPU cable wires are double crimped at the end which creates the 6+2 or the 8+8 or 8+6, etc... (Which can not be done by hand,  Atlease with normal OD wiring without getting some very long wing versions of Mini Fit Jr). If you do cut them off just know you might not be able to re-attach them.

- CableMod is ok for average users, I suggest looking into hand crafted cables. Mod-One & singularity computers both ship world wide.

- Also make sure you use the same pinout layout as the supplied cables. Wires are not 1:1, changing the cables can change the pin layout for the cable as well. I do suggest buying a PSU power supply tester & a Multimeter to make sure everything is up to par.

 

Doing something like this with a curve is fine:

 

 

I would not suggest having any kind of pull on the wire. It shouldn't remove the terminals from the wire, it can happen. You can also dis-form the terminal if enough force is applied.

Thanks for the reply. I did notice that for example the wire that goes into socket 1 from the connector is not going into socket 1 of the other connector. I just labeled them as I took them out, will put them the same way back in, won't change a thing. And I saw they are double crimped, but I'm still going to cut them. If I'll ever be into a position to buy a 2x8 pin GPU, I'll invest some money into a new cable then. Doubt it I'll ever spend that amount of money, but...

21 hours ago, unknownmiscreant said:

Oh, okay  

 

I don't think cables melting will be a problem. The temp sensor I have just under the back plate of my overclocked 1070 never reaches above 67c. Placing a hand on the backplate while the card is under full load shows it to be hot, but nowhere near hot enough to melt cables. The temperature sensor cable shows no sign of melting (it touches the back plate and VRM cooling plate). Utterly crap cables have 85c melting points, whilst most decent cables are rated to 105c.

In the picture you posted on the GPU cables, there is some writing (too blurry to read). That should specify the max temperature of the cable. In terms of routing, just do what looks the best. I only suggested underneath, as I thought it would be easier to hide the spare connectors. It might be less likely to melt cables, but ***may*** make the card run hotter/louder.

I tried underneath to hide the extension, but it's right at the hole... If it were 2 cm longer, the connector would be out. 

 

Thanks for all the advice guys. I hope tomorrow my sleeves and LEDs come so I can start modding and see what works best. I'm also thinking of a vertical GPU, have room and I'm ok with cutting the case in order to feed the cable. Will see.

[unknownmiscreant]

2 hours ago, lsstefan said:

snip

Sounds like a plan. Send us some pics when you're done. 

 

Also, its better to delete parts of large quotes (especially pictures) to reduce the amount of repeated content.

[Revan654]

On 8/19/2017 at 8:19 PM, unknownmiscreant said:

Oh, okay  

 

I don't think cables melting will be a problem. The temp sensor I have just under the back plate of my overclocked 1070 never reaches above 67c. Placing a hand on the backplate while the card is under full load shows it to be hot, but nowhere near hot enough to melt cables. The temperature sensor cable shows no sign of melting (it touches the back plate and VRM cooling plate). Utterly crap cables have 85c melting points, whilst most decent cables are rated to 105c.

In the picture you posted on the GPU cables, there is some writing (too blurry to read). That should specify the max temperature of the cable. In terms of routing, just do what looks the best. I only suggested underneath, as I thought it would be easier to hide the spare connectors. It might be less likely to melt cables, but ***may*** make the card run hotter/louder.

I'll add to this comment with the following:

 

For cable to melt it would have to reach a very high degree. I had one burner hit PVC wire for a few seconds at over 2000F & it barely did any damage. At that temperature I think you would have other things to worry about other then some wires.

 

Not to mention there are wires designed for high temperature environments if you are truly worried.

[lsstefan]

@unknownmiscreant

I got around to do Graphics and CPU power cables.

No combs yet. I got in touch with some 3d printing and it's hella expensive. I guess I'll just buy some from South Africa or something...That shipping though.

Anyway I got into trouble with the CPU 8 pin because of *insert suspense pause here*...that's right, capacitor...

I read about it a little and they are either for ripple or for some instant power delivery to minimize lag. For the Graphics, since the cap is at the extension, I'm guessing it's for that connection only and since I'm using the first connector, I cut off the extension. I won't ever use it, even if I have 2 power GPU, I can use the second cable and not the daisy.

But for the CPU I kept since I don't want to play with the power delivery. The problem is that the cap is right at the freaking end, not in the middle like on the 24 pin ATX where it's easier to sleeve around. 

The 2 pins with the cap attached took me as long as the other 6 pins... and it came out a little uglier too. I do have the benefit that the case is black but also I can stealth the cap cable to the black connector and take it outside, so nothing ugly to see.

Here's some pictures. I did notice the connector pin slots fit the 4 mm cord perfectly, as in they tighten it a bit so it doesn't come loose even if I pull by the cable. I was thinking of adding some super glue inside to make sure the cord doesn't move at all, but I don't think it's necessary.

Tomorrow I'll probably do the 24 pin. I tested the Graphics one and it's good, no issues on power delivery, same FPS like before. Tonight I'm going to plug the CPU one and hope for the best.

 

Btw how do you clean the white cord? Can I wash it and let it dry for hours before plugging it back?

[Revan654]

If you want properly sleeved cables your going have to hand make them from scratch. Which is easier & better then using the default cables. You don't have to deal with all those double wires & Y cables. when almost every cable uses them from the default set. When I made my cable Set I only had three Y cables & there were all on the Main ATX cable. Everything else was a single cable.

 

 

[lsstefan]

1 minute ago, Revan654 said:

If you want properly sleeved cables your going have to hand make them from scratch. Which is easier & better then using the default cables. You don't have to deal with all those double wires & Y cables. when almost every cable uses them from the default set. When I made my cable Set I only had three Y cables & there were all on the Main ATX cable. Everything else was a single cable.

 

 

I know, but as a first project I'm ok with the default ones. In the future, if I'll change my case or colors, I'll probably go with scratch.

[unknownmiscreant]

4 hours ago, Revan654 said:

If you want properly sleeved cables your going have to hand make them from scratch. Which is easier & better then using the default cables. You don't have to deal with all those double wires & Y cables. when almost every cable uses them from the default set. When I made my cable Set I only had three Y cables & there were all on the Main ATX cable. Everything else was a single cable.

 

 

 

4 hours ago, lsstefan said:

I know, but as a first project I'm ok with the default ones. In the future, if I'll change my case or colors, I'll probably go with scratch.

Good work, I'm not sure the capacitor is actually required. It will definitely help stabilize power delivery, but could easily be moved to the middle of the cable with no consequences.

I'm currently ordering stuff to build my own cables from scratch, as I want to keep my PSU warranty.

 

3D printing is always expensive, no way round that . Have you considered sewing your cables together? I'm probably going to end up doing that for mine.

[lsstefan]

4 hours ago, unknownmiscreant said:

 

Good work, I'm not sure the capacitor is actually required. It will definitely help stabilize power delivery, but could easily be moved to the middle of the cable with no consequences.

I'm currently ordering stuff to build my own cables from scratch, as I want to keep my PSU warranty.

 

3D printing is always expensive, no way round that . Have you considered sewing your cables together? I'm probably going to end up doing that for mine.

That's something I didn't consider :)))

I was only thinking about the box psu, not cables also. 

Yeah I'll either go sewing or I found a guy on ebay that is a cad enthusiast and he makes combs from plastic or alu, even custom order. I'll see what he has to offer and then decide.

Good luck with your cables man.

[unknownmiscreant]

3 hours ago, lsstefan said:

That's something I didn't consider :)))

I was only thinking about the box psu, not cables also. 

Yeah I'll either go sewing or I found a guy on ebay that is a cad enthusiast and he makes combs from plastic or alu, even custom order. I'll see what he has to offer and then decide.

Good luck with your cables man.

I did't even realize sewing cables existed until I found it mentioned in a guide some sleeving expert who had written on overclockers. 

 

The ebay combs are probably a good idea, but it looks like you can actually get the cablemod ones in Romania for $32US shipped, although that is pretty expensive for some bits of plastic.

[lsstefan]

4 hours ago, unknownmiscreant said:

I did't even realize sewing cables existed until I found it mentioned in a guide some sleeving expert who had written on overclockers. 

 

The ebay combs are probably a good idea, but it looks like you can actually get the cablemod ones in Romania for $32US shipped, although that is pretty expensive for some bits of plastic.

Yeah I mailed them regarding the EU shop and they said I have to buy from Global. 32$ is super expensive for shipping...

I got into some issues with the ATX cable. Those caps are too close to the connector and I did sleeve around them like in the video, but I think that guy either had them in the middle of the cable, or he could use the PSU connector on the mobo, because mine are literally in the case if left like this and I can't turn the cable around since the PSU has 28 pins... I will cut them and solder them down the line I guess...

I like this PSU and it's modularity, but those caps and the fact that pins aren't 1 to 1 is super annoying. Not to mention I bought extra meters of cord, but since at least 4 wires are double...I'll see what will turn out.

 

Btw, I saw you want to make your own cables, but be careful with the wires and pins. Pin 1 from one connectors may not be pin 1 from the other.

My GPU had 1 2 3 6 the same, 5 was 7, 7 was 5, 4 was 8 and 8 was 4.

ATX is a mess, with one pin being split into each of the PSU connectors( I have 2 - 28 pins total ) and even the ones that are single are not connected to the same number on the other side.

If you want, though idk if our cables match, I can note which wire is which so you don't cut your own cables.

 

PS: nice rams man...hella expensive but damn that latency and freq <3 Good Ryzen OC too. Congrats

 

edit: I see Supernova has the same 2 connector for ATX on PSU, they might be the same cables, just longer.

[unknownmiscreant]

10 hours ago, lsstefan said:

snip

Yeah the non 1:1 pinouts are the main reason I want to make my own, as then I can compare the default cables and mine. I shouldn't screw up that way. The double up wires are a pain, but nowhere near as bad a corsair supplies, they have joined pins, resistors and capacitors in the cables. Although this might help:

 

http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs

 

Thanks for the offer about the pinouts, but I'm not 100% sure our pinouts are the same, no don't want to take the risk of messing something up from just plain differences between product generations.

 

Since I will be keeping the default cables, I will be able to verify the pinout on the repository, build the cables off that, then check that I didn't screw anything up by comparing every pin. Also, I plan to test all my cables with hardware I don't care about first!! I have an old pentium e2200 system and some old hard drives that will make fine test subjects. My only issue on this front is the GPU. Guess I'll have to stick my 1070 on the line. I suspect I will be checking those cables very, very carefully!!

 

As for the cablemod combs, shipping is $20 flat rate. So its $32SUS for the combs + shipping.

 

Yes my RAM was hecka expensive, but since I needed Flare X for ryzen compatibility, I was stuck with either the kit I bought or 2400MHz. (Yay for living in small countries with no options), if I 3200MHz cl16 or 2666MHz kits were available, I would've gone with them. I also don't think there is much performance difference between 3200MHz and 3466MHz. Above 3466MHz you're really just making heaters, as 3600MHz needs a pretty big voltage jump and the only benefit is a very small gain in read speed, considering the tradeoff with thermal issues I stayed clear. Mine seem to be fine running off 1.38v, but thats probably due to them being just at the exhausts of a couple of fans. Also to keep my CPU stable, I have to push 1.42v at it, it draws 150w full load.

[Revan654]

On 8/24/2017 at 8:30 AM, lsstefan said:

Yeah I mailed them regarding the EU shop and they said I have to buy from Global. 32$ is super expensive for shipping...

I got into some issues with the ATX cable. Those caps are too close to the connector and I did sleeve around them like in the video, but I think that guy either had them in the middle of the cable, or he could use the PSU connector on the mobo, because mine are literally in the case if left like this and I can't turn the cable around since the PSU has 28 pins... I will cut them and solder them down the line I guess...

I like this PSU and it's modularity, but those caps and the fact that pins aren't 1 to 1 is super annoying. Not to mention I bought extra meters of cord, but since at least 4 wires are double...I'll see what will turn out.

 

Btw, I saw you want to make your own cables, but be careful with the wires and pins. Pin 1 from one connectors may not be pin 1 from the other.

My GPU had 1 2 3 6 the same, 5 was 7, 7 was 5, 4 was 8 and 8 was 4.

ATX is a mess, with one pin being split into each of the PSU connectors( I have 2 - 28 pins total ) and even the ones that are single are not connected to the same number on the other side.

If you want, though idk if our cables match, I can note which wire is which so you don't cut your own cables.

 

PS: nice rams man...hella expensive but damn that latency and freq <3 Good Ryzen OC too. Congrats

 

edit: I see Supernova has the same 2 connector for ATX on PSU, they might be the same cables, just longer.

 

All ATX are like that (Except a few PSU out there) They all have twisting & double wires (Evga should only have three). All Evga uses the same connectors, Pin layout are different from PSU to PSU even though they belong in the same series. This is why you want a multimeter & a power supply tester.

 

Atlease GPU & EPS don't have any twisting wires or double wires.

 

 

 

 

 

[lsstefan]

12 hours ago, Revan654 said:

 

All ATX are like that (Except a few PSU out there) They all have twisting & double wires (Evga should only have three). All Evga uses the same connectors, Pin layout are different from PSU to PSU even though they belong in the same series. This is why you want a multimeter & a power supply tester.

 

Atlease GPU & EPS don't have any twisting wires or double wires.

 

 

 

 

 

Like the ATX no, but the GPU daisy has a double wire because the +2 is split from the 6 and also at the first connector the wires are split from the pin in order to make the second daisy connector. And the EPS has that dreadful cap....

But yeah, nothing like the ATX. I did manage to skip the multimeter because I used the stock cables so I just took one cable out at a time and sleeved it, put it back exactly how it was.

If I'll ever do scratch cables yea, I'll need to be more prepared, tho the most important thing tbh is that pin tool...That paperclip gave me nightmares on the ATX...

[Revan654]

3 hours ago, lsstefan said:

Like the ATX no, but the GPU daisy has a double wire because the +2 is split from the 6 and also at the first connector the wires are split from the pin in order to make the second daisy connector. And the EPS has that dreadful cap....

But yeah, nothing like the ATX. I did manage to skip the multimeter because I used the stock cables so I just took one cable out at a time and sleeved it, put it back exactly how it was.

If I'll ever do scratch cables yea, I'll need to be more prepared, tho the most important thing tbh is that pin tool...That paperclip gave me nightmares on the ATX...

 

It's better just to create two GPU cable then tie together with cablecombs. It's nearly impossible to sleeve daisy chain style cables.

 

What dreaded EPS cap? EPS is basically 1:1 with nothing special about them.

 

Even if you copy stock cables, you should atlease have a powersupply tester.

 

The MDPC-X original extractor is the best(Other then Molex Brand version, that will cost you about 40 dollars). MDPC-X is pretty cheap, I have other ones too but they all have issues.

[lsstefan]

2 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

What dreaded EPS cap? EPS is basically 1:1 with nothing special about them.

Capacitor.

I'll keep in mind the pin tool.

Thanks

[Revan654]

On 9/6/2017 at 0:48 PM, lsstefan said:

Capacitor.

I'll keep in mind the pin tool.

Thanks

 

ah, I know both my P2 & T2 PSU don't have any. Wasn't 100% what you were referring to.