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Everything posted by unknownmiscreant

  1. Eh no idea. If your cables get that hot, the plastic will melt first and cause much greater issues. As for conductivity, buying better cable will make a bigger difference to the overall resistance. But if you want the best, go for the more expensive ones. As for JMT, I have no clue. I reused the stock ones off my EVGA cables As for MDPC-X, it is not actually paracord, it is PET sleeving. This makes it more slippery and shinier. It is made from thicker induvidual strands of material, this means the base cable colour shows through. By comparison, normal paracord is made o
  2. Select Product Detail Customer Part No. Order Qty. Price (NZD) Ext. (NZD) Mouser No: 538-67582-0000 Mfr. No: 67582-0000 Desc.: I/O Connectors I/O Connectors Housing of SATA powe ATA power receptacle 5
  3. @Futiles Figured I'd do this here rather than DMs. Basically go look at this page on the molex website. I can't remember the part numbers, and the order will be buried by now. https://www.molex.com/molex/products/listview.jsp?query=&offset=0&filter=&fs=&npp=20&sType=a&autoNav=&path=+inmeta%3Apromotable%3Dyes+inmeta%3ACollectionName%3DImpulse+inmeta%3Aproductname%3DMini%252DFit%2520Jr%252E%26partialfields%3D(application%3APower*)&channel=products&key=power_connectors Filter the results to black and the number of pins (circuits) yo
  4. Looking great. Couple of suggestions: 1) Try disable the q-code thing, ik on the latest Asus crosshair BIOSes this option is available in Advanced-->ROG options--> q-code/post code or something. Choose the disabled after post option. My board looks a fair bit better without the green '33' in the top corner. 2) If your front fans are RGB you could likely connect them to Aura as well. From the look of them, even if they aren't you could likely replace the current led strip with some 3rd party RGB strip and use that with Aura. I'm tempted to buy some LL fans now...
  5. The reason asus limit the number of LEDs is due to how the LEDs work (each LED passing its current color onto the next LED when it receives a new colour) the longer the LED chain, the slower the update speed becomes. I run 123 LEDs round the perimeter of my case, but this is the max I would want to do. As a result, I run the LEDs on the IO panel and behind my GPU block off a seperate arduino pin. Using arduino helps alot with running more LEDs, as the FastLED library supports parallel output on up to 8 strips at once. Whilst this isn't a true fix for the fundamental behavior of the LEDs, it is
  6. @miha929 @Kayanaphotographybalk Looking good. You guys have basically got the right idea. Basically disconnect the RGB hub from the commander and connect the middle pin of the cable going between the commander and RGB hub to the data pin of the addressable header on the motherboard. The instructions posted above are accurate. If you follow those with the LL fans you won't have an issue. Regarding connecting fans in parallel, you should be able to connect multiple fan hub data pins to one addressable header data pin. I would recommend running each hub off a different addressable hea
  7. Something along the lines of the link in my signature running some custom code to add a breathing mode. Other than that, theres likely some off-the-shelf RGB controllers that will work, but I have no idea or experience about those.
  8. Do not connect the commander pro to the motherboard RGB header that break something. To sync the RGB with Aura, basically follow the steps taken above. It may be slightly different for LL fans, idk as I have never owned any. Send some close up photos of the fans connected to the commander and rgb hug (if you have one) then I can try tell you what you need to connect to what.
  9. Idk how AIO's work, I've only done custom loop. I have absolutely no idea about the innards of any AIO or the lights. The lighting in the pump will be controlled by the internal circuit which interfaces (I assume via USB,) to he motherboard and the CAM software. However I have never bothered researching AIOs so don't have a clue about them. You'll need to find a guide to taking the unit apart online, and then try work out what sort of LEDs are in the unit. You'll need a multimeter for that. Either way I would recommend controlling fans and pump through the BIOS and uni
  10. Looking good. If your feeling adventurous, you could probably take apart you AIO and run that off an aura header as well. Heck, you could potentially run the pump off a fan header and dump CAM altogether. Find a guide though, as I have never owned, yet alone taken apart a AIO. I use the BIOS to run the curves for all my fans and pump. Works much better than the multitude of windows fan utilities available.
  11. 5v power for the leds in the fans is provided by the SATA connector. The ground is connected through the powersupply, so not really necessary to connect to the header. You only need to connect the data pin from the MBO to the middle pin of the RGB splitter. Definitely post your results. For first test, I would recommend only having 1 fan plugged in, just in case something's not working right.
  12. Yep. It'll work perfectly. Asus addressable headers output for WS2812 LEDs, so the HD fans are 100% compatible. You'll still need the hub to power the fans and chain them together, but you can ditch the corsair control. Basically connect the middle pin of the 3-pin connector on the RGB hub (data in connector, normally connects to the corsair controller) to the data pin on the MBO. The ground will be connected through the power supply, but you can connect it if you want. Basically follow the relevant part of the guide above, related to connecting the fan hub to the arduino. The only issue might
  13. Ill put this in the OP as well. Man my rig's changed a bit since I filmed this. Although the RBG modes are basically the same still. Ill repload this, YT is being annoying
  14. I would caution against adding additional load to anything on the main board. Any power supply rails you find may not be designed to handle the extra load of a fan. This could cause some very strange behavior later on. Personally I would take a USB phone charger apart and use the 5v rail from that to run the fan. Connect it up to the mains rail in the sub woofer, and turn it on and off using the 45v rail (although I would suspect this is more along the lines of +/-22.5V for power amplifiers) with a low coil current relay. Running the relay off the 45V rail is likely going to be fin
  15. The RGB connector on the motherboard is the standard 4-pin connector. But the control is very limited. It is only controllable via AI Suite. ATM, AFAIK AI suite is not compatible with the fall creators update. I have not used it in a while. Quite frankly I would uninstall it, even on compatible versions of windows it is utter junk.
  16. I would recommend manually setting core multipliers and voltages in the BIOS. as for AI Suite, uninstall it. Set everything it offers in the BIOS. I never used it for OC, but my fan control noticeably improved once I got rid of it.
  17. Update, running the card off an external (quite noisy plugpack) along with the filtering has greatly reduced the noise. I anticipate running the card off a proper linear power supply will further improve the results. Although that may create issues re my UPS.. might have to stick with a plugpack and add a few smoothing capacitors... Might also run the card externally on a USB mining style riser outside the case.
  18. Not alot of point. It does not affect the signal in any way, resolves ground loop issues and filters unwanted noise. I can explain what I am doing if you care. Also might be a little hard, as all of my amplifiers etc are custom built. I will go through the steps outlined here later when I get home. Although I have tried alot of them and from my observations, the noise is being injected from the VRMs on both the CPU and GPU, since the noise changes with CPU and GPU load. Potentially this is happening through the powersupply. Pity... Basically looks like optical is the only to re
  19. Long story short (and skipping over technical details, although I am happy to provide them should anyone be interested) I basically have a fairly severe problem with hiss and VRM noise being injected into my PC speakers, particularly in games. I have spent numerous hours looking into this with oscilloscopes and what not, and have managed to build dedicated processing circuits to get the speakers silent while idle, but although reduced, the noise is still an issue in gameplay. ATM it looks like I have 2 options: 1 make a auxiliary supply for my sound card,an Asus strix Soar wh
  20. No, set it with a min size under 100mb and max of 4-8gb or so. That means it is only used if necessary. So is the best of both worlds. I have done that for a few years with no issues.
  21. Its down to windows placing standby memory allocated to programs which they are not currently using in the pagefile. I wrote an explanation for it a while ago, its one of the replies in this thread:
  22. I have the exact same issue, except there is a noise all the time, it gets worse when I load up a game. The noise is present on both the onboard audio and my asus strix soar soundcard. I remove most of it with a differential amplifer, this gets it back to being silent while idle, but noise is present in games (well whenever the GPU is under heavy load. I solve that by turning the amplifier gain down so it is barely audible. not a great solution. Here is a thread where I described the differential amplifier solution in a little more detail: http://www.overclock.net/foru
  23. This: https://www.udse.de/en/windows-10-reboot-blocker Is the best tool by far for blocking auto reboots. I have been using it for a couple of months no issues. Other than that I set the group policy to notify only, although looks like you want more than this...
  24. They are basically 0.1" pitch square pin headers. Look em up on digikey for a fraction of the cost compared to modding shops.
  25. I only use my laptop while I am out, and I do all real work such as coding via remote access to my desktop and save spreadsheets and word documents to dropbox so it auto syncs. Mouse without borders is useless for me, as once I am at home I use my desktop for everything bc it is so much faster. Personally I cannot recommend any eGPU adapter due to the very limited PCIe bandwidth, this throttles the cards performance greatly. Just buy a riser. They are also cheaper.