Jump to content

PC turns on for a split second and immediately shuts down

biascoblix

Ok, so here's a very long description of what happened.. 

I was sitting playing on my PS4. It's sitting right next to the PC. The PC was on and idling. Suddenly, I heard two clicking noises. It's the noise that the PC does when turning it on or off. It happened twice and the PC shut down. It wasn't any electrical stability issue or anything since the PS4 is connected to the same outlet. 

 

After that I tried running the PC. Absolutely nothing. So, I went ahead and removed the plug for a second and connected it again. Pressed the power button, and it turned on for less than a second and immediately went off. It was just enough for the lights of the motherboard to light up and then /* click */ it turn off again. Not a single fan moves.

 

Here's something I noticed :

With the PC shut down. Nothing is weird or anything. The power button lights properly. There's a few small BIOS leds that light up.

Now, here's the weird thing. The PC will only try to turn on once. After that it just refuses unless I completely remove the plug and reinsert it to the wall outlet. 

 

Any help ?

 

 

Specs :

  • CPU
    i7-5820K
  • Motherboard
    MSI X99A GAMING 7
  • RAM
    G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 Series 48GB
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 980
  • Case
    NZXT H440
  • PSU : Cooler Master V750

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did so for everything except the CPU. Same thing. Nothing changed. 

 

What could be causing that ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

i had this issue today when installing mobo, it was lsighlty diffrent, everything went on than off, on than off, repeatdedly, check the cables on the mobo, this can also happen if u manage to put the cpu power cable in the wrong way. i done that before xD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, this is started happening when the PC was on. I haven't touched the inside of the case for a few months. Something has probably gone faulty here. I'm just not sure how to diagnose that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, biascoblix said:

Ok, so here's a very long description of what happened.. 

I was sitting playing on my PS4. It's sitting right next to the PC. The PC was on and idling. Suddenly, I heard two clicking noises. It's the noise that the PC does when turning it on or off. It happened twice and the PC shut down. It wasn't any electrical stability issue or anything since the PS4 is connected to the same outlet. 

 

After that I tried running the PC. Absolutely nothing. So, I went ahead and removed the plug for a second and connected it again. Pressed the power button, and it turned on for less than a second and immediately went off. It was just enough for the lights of the motherboard to light up and then /* click */ it turn off again. Not a single fan moves.

 

Here's something I noticed :

With the PC shut down. Nothing is weird or anything. The power button lights properly. There's a few small BIOS leds that light up.

Now, here's the weird thing. The PC will only try to turn on once. After that it just refuses unless I completely remove the plug and reinsert it to the wall outlet. 

 

Any help ?

 

 

Specs :

  • CPU
    i7-5820K
  • Motherboard
    MSI X99A GAMING 7
  • RAM
    G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 Series 48GB
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 980
  • Case
    NZXT H440
  • PSU : Cooler Master V750

 

Sounds like similar behavior to what my laptop had when it reacted to a short (not important why there was a short). When the short occurred the notebook would power down immediately and not power on until power was removed and reinstalled. Could also be behavior of another electrical issue. I would give another PSU a try if you have one and remove the video card while on the primary PSU and see if it posts, or stays on longer than a second. Also check for dust in the PSU and see what you can clean with an air can. Dust has been known to become conductive when in large clumps.

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I connected pin 15 and pin 16 together and tried turning on and the same thing happened. It just ran for a sec and immediately went off.

 

Does that mean it's dead or is it possible to fix it ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I'll keep posting progress here just in case someone else finds that thread in the future. It could be of some help.

 

Apparently there's a fuse in there that I think is the one causing that.

 

I'll try to get my hands on an ohmeter to make sure if it's working or not before attempting to replace it.

Screenshot_20170816-162026.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, biascoblix said:

I connected pin 15 and pin 16 together and tried turning on and the same thing happened. It just ran for a sec and immediately went off.

 

Does that mean it's dead or is it possible to fix it ?

If you have another power supply I would test it if works using that unit, if so you have a bad power supply, not an expensive replacement but I recommend something like EVGA. If it does the same thing then I would explore the possibility of motherboard or CPU failure. I would reseat the CPU and try that and see if it starts. If the CPU isn't seated properly it can prevent the system from successfully booting. Also check for bent or damaged pins on both the socket and the CPU.

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Vengeance1020 said:

If you have another power supply I would test it if works using that unit, if so you have a bad power supply, not an expensive replacement but I recommend something like EVGA. If it does the same thing then I would explore the possibility of motherboard or CPU failure. I would reseat the CPU and try that and see if it starts. If the CPU isn't seated properly it can prevent the system from successfully booting. Also check for bent or damaged pins on both the socket and the CPU.

It's definitely a power supply issue, isn't it ?

The same behaviour happened exactly when the PSU wasn't even connected to the motherboard at all. I just had pin 15 and pin 16 connected together with a paper clip. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been struggling with getting the PSU board itself out of the casing of the PSU. I removed all the 4 screws screwing the board to the case but it's still somehow and I'm afraid to apply force not to break something.

 

Any help ?

 

Edit : tested the fuse. It seems fine. I'm getting some help from a friend who has been repairing electronics for quite some time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/16/2017 at 0:03 PM, biascoblix said:

It's definitely a power supply issue, isn't it ?

The same behaviour happened exactly when the PSU wasn't even connected to the motherboard at all. I just had pin 15 and pin 16 connected together with a paper clip. 

The motherboard handles the power on, just shorting those two pins together would power on the power supply and start up other electronics connected to it with power. To test the power supply and it's ability to supply power you can unplug it from everything but one mechanical hard drive and then short the pins and power on the PSU, the hard drive will spin up and you should here it, listen for hiccups or anything that would suggest an error in power delivery. You could also plug a fan to the PSU (a cheap LED fan that draws power for the LEDs from the primary fan cable is preferable since if there are issues, you will see it in the LEDs) using a fan to molex or SATA adapter (if they make a fan to SATA adapter). I would also get another power supply and plug that into the motherboard and remove the other components from the board such as video cards and other devices normally powered by a PSU. Try this on both the problem PSU and the testing one if you have one. So make sure to unplug all hard drives, expansion cards like video cards and unplug any USB device unless it's a front panel connector then it can stay in or be removed. The only thing that the PSU should be powering is the motherboard and the motherboard to be bare with only itself and the PSU connected. Power on and see if it posts. 

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Vengeance1020 said:

The motherboard handles the power on, just shorting those two pins together would power on the power supply and start up other electronics connected to it with power. To test the power supply and it's ability to supply power you can unplug it from everything but one mechanical hard drive and then short the pins and power on the PSU, the hard drive will spin up and you should here it, listen for hiccups or anything that would suggest an error in power delivery. You could also plug a fan to the PSU (a cheap LED fan that draws power for the LEDs from the primary fan cable is preferable since if there are issues, you will see it in the LEDs) using a fan to molex or SATA adapter (if they make a fan to SATA adapter). I would also get another power supply and plug that into the motherboard and remove the other components from the board such as video cards and other devices normally powered by a PSU. Try this on both the problem PSU and the testing one if you have one. So make sure to unplug all hard drives, expansion cards like video cards and unplug any USB device unless it's a front panel connector then it can stay in or be removed. The only thing that the PSU should be powering is the motherboard and the motherboard to be bare with only itself and the PSU connected. Power on and see if it posts. 

I had everything unplugged. Just had those two pins in the 24 pin connector connected. Nothing else was connected there but the power supply fan. And it still didn't work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/18/2017 at 8:31 AM, biascoblix said:

I had everything unplugged. Just had those two pins in the 24 pin connector connected. Nothing else was connected there but the power supply fan. And it still didn't work.

So you didnt have the power supply connected to any components at all? not even the mobo?

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×