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Hi everyone.

 

Been having problems witth my 1700. It seems that it might be monitoring my temperatures wrong? At idle I'm getting  very low temperatures.

 

15e00a082d.png

 

Same thing occurs when I run Aida to try stress it out.

 

accfc32459.png

 

I'm on the latest drivers from Asus, using the x370F Strix. Tried reflashing motherboard bios a few times to no avail. Have enabled HPET and on the highest performance power mode.

Using a Kraken x52  cooler, have tried multiple CPU temp monitoring programs but all are exhibiting the same behavior.

 

Do I just have a godlike chip (unlikely) or is there something else going on here.

 

Best regards,

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the CPU is only at 1550mhz, so it will be at a low temp, mine right now at 1550mhz is 13C (on a big loop) 

 

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Somethings not right your clock is @ 1.55 ghz and your voltage is at 1.00 you need to wake that thing up! 

My daily driver: The Wrath of Red: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen TR4 1950x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA621P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASRock x399 Taichi / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / Samsung 512GB 970 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor x3

 

My technology Rig: The wizard: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen R7 1800x 3.95MHz / Corsair H110i / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASUS CH 6 / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / 512GB 960 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor HP Monitor

 

My I don't use RigOS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen 1600x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA620P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / MSI x370 Gaming Pro Carbon / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / Samsung PM961 256GB M.2 PCIe Internal SSDEVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SSC GAMING / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor

 

My NAS: The storage miser: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / CPU Intel i7 6700 / Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 Watt 80 Plus / ASUS Maximus viii Hero / 32GB Gskill RipJaw DDR4 3200Mhz / HP Mellanox ConnectX-2 10 GbE PCI-e G2 Dual SFP+ Ported Ethernet HCA NIC / 9 Drives total 29TB - 1 4TB seagate parity - 7 4TB WD Red data - 1 1TB laptop drive data - and 2 240GB Sandisk SSD's cache / Headless

 

Why did I buy this server: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / Dell R710 enterprise server with dual xeon E5530 / 48GB ecc ddr3 / Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA w/ LSI 9211-8i P20 IT / 4 450GB sas drives / headless

 

Just another server: OS Proxmox VE / Dell poweredge R410

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Hi sorry, I didnt mention this in the initial post. 

 

It's actually overclocked to 4ghz,memory at 3200mhz.

 

Guess this also means the software isn't reading my overclocked properly? Only Windows computer properties is seeing 4ghz.

 

Cheers !

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16 minutes ago, TheOverhaul said:

Hi sorry, I didnt mention this in the initial post. 

 

It's actually overclocked to 4ghz,memory at 3200mhz.

 

Guess this also means the software isn't reading my overclocked properly? Only Windows computer properties is seeing 4ghz.

 

Cheers !

Quick question did you overclock with software or the bios? No matter how you did it you need to enter the bios reset to optimized defaults boot your system and confirm that the defaults applied then start to overclock in the bios but don't go apeshit on it try upping the clock in increments test and continue until unstable then add some voltage don't mess with memory overclocking until you obtain and hold a stable overclock on the cpu and if you did overclock with software my recommendation is uninstall that shit its to wonky and can cause the issues that you are having

30 minutes ago, jdwii said:

At idle my CPU is at that temp using a Kraken X61 even with the stock wraith one can see low temps as long as you are not seeing lower then ambient temps its all good. 

 

Ryzen 1700 at stock is only a 65 watt CPU

  

Based on his aida64 photo that is under full load no Ryzen chip is going to run that cold unless something is not set right!

My daily driver: The Wrath of Red: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen TR4 1950x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA621P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASRock x399 Taichi / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / Samsung 512GB 970 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor x3

 

My technology Rig: The wizard: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen R7 1800x 3.95MHz / Corsair H110i / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASUS CH 6 / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / 512GB 960 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor HP Monitor

 

My I don't use RigOS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen 1600x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA620P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / MSI x370 Gaming Pro Carbon / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / Samsung PM961 256GB M.2 PCIe Internal SSDEVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SSC GAMING / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor

 

My NAS: The storage miser: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / CPU Intel i7 6700 / Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 Watt 80 Plus / ASUS Maximus viii Hero / 32GB Gskill RipJaw DDR4 3200Mhz / HP Mellanox ConnectX-2 10 GbE PCI-e G2 Dual SFP+ Ported Ethernet HCA NIC / 9 Drives total 29TB - 1 4TB seagate parity - 7 4TB WD Red data - 1 1TB laptop drive data - and 2 240GB Sandisk SSD's cache / Headless

 

Why did I buy this server: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / Dell R710 enterprise server with dual xeon E5530 / 48GB ecc ddr3 / Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA w/ LSI 9211-8i P20 IT / 4 450GB sas drives / headless

 

Just another server: OS Proxmox VE / Dell poweredge R410

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25 minutes ago, mrbilky said:

Quick question did you overclock with software or the bios? No matter how you did it you need to enter the bios reset to optimized defaults boot your system and confirm that the defaults applied then start to overclock in the bios but don't go apeshit on it try upping the clock in increments test and continue until unstable then add some voltage don't mess with memory overclocking until you obtain and hold a stable overclock on the cpu and if you did overclock with software my recommendation is uninstall that shit its to wonky and can cause the issues that you are having

Based on his aida64 photo that is under full load no Ryzen chip is going to run that cold unless something is not set right!

Hi! 

 

So I overclocked using BIOS. 

 

You bring up a good point, I checked the BIOS before overclocking and it was showing default results. 

 

Overclocking was pretty simple, went to 3.8, then 3.9, then 4, then 4.1 without any hitches? Only thing is it's not being read on anything but Windows and Cinebench. 

 

Any other software you would recommend? 

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No their fine but what you are experiencing is instability due to the overclock, what voltage did you have at 4.1 cause if you had that stable you won the lottery for sure! But reality is you won't see 4.1 and maybe not even 4.0 stable, at voltage over 1.39 / 1.40 the heat begins to be an issue for a daily driver I've had a stable overclock at 4.0 but temps were hanging around 75c and I just didn't see the point in running that temp for the little gained I'm at 3.95 and 1.39 full load and temps are in the low 60's

My daily driver: The Wrath of Red: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen TR4 1950x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA621P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASRock x399 Taichi / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / Samsung 512GB 970 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor x3

 

My technology Rig: The wizard: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen R7 1800x 3.95MHz / Corsair H110i / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASUS CH 6 / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / 512GB 960 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor HP Monitor

 

My I don't use RigOS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen 1600x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA620P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / MSI x370 Gaming Pro Carbon / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / Samsung PM961 256GB M.2 PCIe Internal SSDEVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SSC GAMING / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor

 

My NAS: The storage miser: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / CPU Intel i7 6700 / Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 Watt 80 Plus / ASUS Maximus viii Hero / 32GB Gskill RipJaw DDR4 3200Mhz / HP Mellanox ConnectX-2 10 GbE PCI-e G2 Dual SFP+ Ported Ethernet HCA NIC / 9 Drives total 29TB - 1 4TB seagate parity - 7 4TB WD Red data - 1 1TB laptop drive data - and 2 240GB Sandisk SSD's cache / Headless

 

Why did I buy this server: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / Dell R710 enterprise server with dual xeon E5530 / 48GB ecc ddr3 / Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA w/ LSI 9211-8i P20 IT / 4 450GB sas drives / headless

 

Just another server: OS Proxmox VE / Dell poweredge R410

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On 8/14/2017 at 9:25 PM, mrbilky said:

No their fine but what you are experiencing is instability due to the overclock, what voltage did you have at 4.1 cause if you had that stable you won the lottery for sure! But reality is you won't see 4.1 and maybe not even 4.0 stable, at voltage over 1.39 / 1.40 the heat begins to be an issue for a daily driver I've had a stable overclock at 4.0 but temps were hanging around 75c and I just didn't see the point in running that temp for the little gained I'm at 3.95 and 1.39 full load and temps are in the low 60's

I had another look and the overclock seems to be stable now. Can go 4.1ghz at 1.375v? I'm just unsure about keeping it there for everyday use so I've put it down to 3.8ghz for daily use. 

 

Still a little unsure as of what to do, I'm still sort of uneasy not being able to know exact temperatures. Reckon this would be a good enough reason to get a refund from Amazon? 

 

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