I NEED HELP ASAP

[likeabog]

In November, 2016, I built my first PC after saving a lot of money. Just yesterday, after coming home from school, I tried powering on my PC but here's what happened:

I hit the power button on the case, and I heard the usual fans and hard drive spin up and such, but nothing showed up on the display.

 3-5 seconds later, it just randomly shut off.

5 seconds later it just turned back on.

Another 3-5 seconds had passed and it turned off again.

 

Every time I hit the power button it goes through this process but never actually powers on.

It's been doing this ever since yesterday (unless I flip off the PSU switch).

Here's a video of what it looks like

I have no idea what to do and would appreciate any help possible.

I attached a video of what happens.

 

Specs:

CPU: i7 6700K

GPU: GTX 1070

MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16 x 2 32 GB RAM

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2

(let me know if you need to know more anything else)

HELP PLS.mp4

[The Sloth]

get a new psu, you got short end of a stick on your psu, its defective. 

[Sir Asvald]

I'd had this issue before. It was a problem with overclocking. Have you overclocked recently? Any changes in the BIOS? 

[Alex Kovacs]

Check the CPU cooler!

 

[likeabog]

1 minute ago, Abdul201588 said:

I'd had this issue before. It was a problem with overclocking. Have you overclocked recently? Any changes in the BIOS? 

I have not overclocked at all after building.

[likeabog]

1 minute ago, Ficus said:

Check the CPU cooler!

 

Already did that, seems that nothing is wrong with it.

[Alex Kovacs]

Just now, likeabog said:

Already did that, seems that nothing is wrong with it.

Then it's definetly the PSU!

[likeabog]

Just now, Ficus said:

Then it's definetly the PSU!

Are you sure, because it seems to be delivering power to the motherboard LEDs and the GPU?

[paddy-stone]

Reset CMOS. If it still boot loops then it is most likely a hardware problem.

[Alex Kovacs]

Just now, likeabog said:

Are you sure, because it seems to be delivering power to the motherboard LEDs and the GPU?

I'm pretty sure,this happened to me.

Only this can be the cause or the CPU overheating.

[Sir Asvald]

5 minutes ago, likeabog said:

I have not overclocked at all after building.

Alright, have you checked the ram? Is it correctly seated? Also does your motherboard have an LED error code? See what it says and check the manual accordingly. Also check the CPU cooler make sure it's seated correctly. 

[likeabog]

Just now, Abdul201588 said:

Alright, have you checked the ram? Is it correctly seated? Also do you motherboard have an LED error code? See what it says and check the manual accordingly. Also check the CPU cooler make sure it's seated correctly. 

The RAM is seated. All the screws on the cooler are well-tightened and its seated properly. An error code doesn't show up on the debug either.

[likeabog]

9 minutes ago, nerdslayer1 said:

get a new psu, you got short end of a stick on your psu, its defective. 

Any recommendations? 

[The Sloth]

Just now, likeabog said:

Any recommendations? 

RMA or switch out for another psu corsair 80+ 500 watt will work. 

[Sir Asvald]

9 minutes ago, likeabog said:

The RAM is seated. All the screws on the cooler are well-tightened and its seated properly. An error code doesn't show up on the debug either.

This is very odd.  Check if anything is touching the motherboard, any cables. And like the others said, it could be a PSU issue. 

 

[crzyces]

44 minutes ago, nerdslayer1 said:

RMA or switch out for another psu corsair 80+ 500 watt will work. 

@likeabog

 

I am with everyone who said "PSU". This is a very common occurrence. The first time I saw it I was doing a network job for a law firm and was baffled at one of their PC's. I brought it to the shop (Now I had spare PSU's in the Van) and my boss thanked me for the extra $ I made him for something I should have known and done on site.

 

The PSU should still be under warranty if you built the PC in 2016. If you want to make sure before you send it out, try booting up with another psu if you have one available. Also, does it boot without the graphics card in? Even if it does, I still think it's the PSU just not delivering enough juice.

[crzyces]

37 minutes ago, nerdslayer1 said:

RMA or switch out for another psu corsair 80+ 500 watt will work. 

I'd recommend more power, just to be onthe safe side.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0633

 

Yeah yeah, it's listed as a tier 3 here, but I'm at a loss why, as it is a killer psu. Gold + rating and all.

 

If you want to go down too 650 watts the Be-Quiet Dark Power Pro kicks ass, and for the tier list fans is a tier 1 platinum .

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V39G8952&cm_re=Be_Quiet_DARK_POWER_PRO_10-_-1HU-004H-00053-_-Product

 

They are both the same price,1 is a 750 watt, the other a 650.

 

Either way, they should last you for quite awhile. They both have 5 year warranties, but I doubt you will have to deal with them letting you down.

 

 

 

 

[Quixotic.Estate]

25 minutes ago, crzyces said:

@likeabog

 

I am with everyone who said "PSU". This is a very common occurrence. The first time I saw it I was doing a network job for a law firm and was baffled at one of their PC's. I brought it to the shop (Now I had spare PSU's in the Van) and my boss thanked me for the extra $ I made him for something I should have known and done on site.

 

The PSU should still be under warranty if you built the PC in 2016. If you want to make sure before you send it out, try booting up with another psu if you have one available. Also, does it boot without the graphics card in? Even if it does, I still think it's the PSU just not delivering enough juice.

 

So you're saying that you could've fixed it on site but decided to take it to your bosses shop to get more money from said law firm?

[crzyces]

12 minutes ago, Quixotic.Estate said:

So you're saying that you could've fixed it on site but decided to take it to your bosses shop to get more money from said law firm?

No, absolutely not. I had no idea what was wrong with it, I tested the psu with my multi, it was testing fine, so I was lost. Problem was, I just *checked*, the PSU would output it's 400 watts or whatever for 5 seconds or so, then drop off. I wasn't testing for minutes at a time, just a quick test, so I never saw the drop off in output. I was new, and had never seen that issue. It never occurred to me to swap the PSU as it read correctly on the meter. I was paid the same regardless at the time, so juicing customers didn't make me a nickle extra.

Edited April 21, 2017 by crzyces
Had to explain a bit better.

[The Sloth]

37 minutes ago, crzyces said:

I'd recommend more power, just to be onthe safe side.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0633

 

Yeah yeah, it's listed as a tier 3 here, but I'm at a loss why, as it is a killer psu. Gold + rating and all.

 

If you want to go down too 650 watts the Be-Quiet Dark Power Pro kicks ass, and for the tier list fans is a tier 1 platinum .

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V39G8952&cm_re=Be_Quiet_DARK_POWER_PRO_10-_-1HU-004H-00053-_-Product

 

They are both the same price,1 is a 750 watt, the other a 650.

 

Either way, they should last you for quite awhile. They both have 5 year warranties, but I doubt you will have to deal with them letting you down.

 

 

 

 

 

500 watt is more than enough, gold rated doesn't mean it's good. 

[Quixotic.Estate]

27 minutes ago, crzyces said:

No, absolutely not. I had no idea what was wrong with it, I tested the psu with my multi, it was testing fine, so I was lost. Problem was, I just *checked*, the PSU would output it's 400 watts or whatever for 5 seconds or so, then drop off. I wasn't testing for minutes at a time, just a quick test, so I never saw the drop off in output. I was new, and had never seen that issue. It never occurred to me to swap the PSU as it read correctly on the meter. I was paid the same regardless at the time, so juicing customers didn't make me a nickle extra.

 

Lol I'm sooo glad I asked before I put you on blast.

[Rezz]

On 4/22/2017 at 5:23 AM, likeabog said:

The RAM is seated. All the screws on the cooler are well-tightened and its seated properly. An error code doesn't show up on the debug either.

Try to clean your ram with rubber eraser and try 1 ram in each slot and see if the pc post.

[openthatchest]

13 hours ago, Rezz said:

Try to clean your ram with rubber eraser and try 1 ram in each slot and see if the pc post.

rubber eraser???

[crzyces]

1 hour ago, openthatchest said:

rubber eraser???

That is a new one for me too. A wipe with a static free cloth and compressed air (or even a blow dryer) in the seats is normally fine. Lol, what is gunked on RAM that you need an eraser to get it off?