AIO Help

[MisterCyber]

I recently bought a water cooler.

Enermax Liqmax II 120S AIO to be exact.

And I overclocked my CPU about 1 week before I got it. And I installed the cooler properly, nothing wrong. I checked with my dad to make sure. And the temperature is always 70°C - 75°C (155°F - 165°F). No matter if it's on or off. Then when I play a game, it jumps to 85°C - 100°C. (190°F - 210°F). What could be the problem? Is it not filled with liquid? Did I not do a step right? Can someone help me figure out why my Water cooler won't seem to work. I appreciate all help. 

[airdeano]

moved from Water Cooling Gallery to main forum for better exposure

[FrankV]

3 hours ago, MisterCyber said:

I recently bought a water cooler.

Enermax Liqmax II 120S AIO to be exact.

And I overclocked my CPU about 1 week before I got it. And I installed the cooler properly, nothing wrong. I checked with my dad to make sure. And the temperature is always 70°C - 75°C (155°F - 165°F). No matter if it's on or off. Then when I play a game, it jumps to 85°C - 100°C. (190°F - 210°F). What could be the problem? Is it not filled with liquid? Did I not do a step right? Can someone help me figure out why my Water cooler won't seem to work. I appreciate all help. 

What do you mean -- on or off? It should always be "on" unless you mean like full power or not. 

 

Obviously, your assertion that nothing is wrong is incorrect. Something is up. Those temps are way too high (and btw, with a PC forum, you don't need to convert to F. We live and breath temps in C. It's just the hobby. )

 

So, what could be the problem?  What Cooler did you replace? What was on their before when you originally overclocked? What are your settings and what is the exact CPU?

 

Also, How is the pump and headers connected to the motherboard? 

 

And so you know, an AIO is prefilled. If it doesn't have water in it you (1) should not be using it and (2) it's defective. 

 

Anyway, try to provide more information and avoid assumptions. Unless you are absolutely sure about something don't post it as fact. Simply note that you are not sure. Trust me, it'll help us help you. 

[MisterCyber]

5 minutes ago, FrankV said:

What do you mean -- on or off? It should always be "on" unless you mean like full power or not. 

 

Obviously, your assertion that nothing is wrong is incorrect. Something is up. Those temps are way too high (and btw, with a PC forum, you don't need to convert to F. We live and breath temps in C. It's just the hobby. )

 

So, what could be the problem?  What Cooler did you replace? What was on their before when you originally overclocked? What are your settings and what is the exact CPU?

 

Also, How is the pump and headers connected to the motherboard? 

 

And so you know, an AIO is prefilled. If it doesn't have water in it you (1) should not be using it and (2) it's defective. 

 

Anyway, try to provide more information and avoid assumptions. Unless you are absolutely sure about something don't post it as fact. Simply note that you are not sure. Trust me, it'll help us help you. 

Originally I had the stock cooler on it. Then when I bought the water cooler I started to overclock it. Then when it arrived put it in and tested the performance of it. And since I figured AIO coolers should come prefilled, just was curious if it was or not. But I could not see a problem. Did everything by the manual. Even had my dad help me. He said it should work just fine. Also I have an AMD Quad Core 3.7GHz processor. (I made sure to swap the header on the cooler block from Intel to AMD, so that isn't the issue. 

 

CPU:

AMD Athlon Quad Core 3.7GHz processor

(I overclock it at 4.2GHz)

 

But I am not at my computer so I can't get certain details or specs. I am out right now working.

 

 

[MisterCyber]

I just thought this morning. If my Power Supply is not enough for all my components, could that be a cause as to why it doesn't work right? Maybe it doesn't have enough power. Just a thought.

[FrankV]

25 minutes ago, MisterCyber said:

I just thought this morning. If my Power Supply is not enough for all my components, could that be a cause as to why it doesn't work right? Maybe it doesn't have enough power. Just a thought.

Possible, I suppose but I think if this was the case the computer would shut off. Not sure on the behavior in this case. 

 

The thing is, is the cooler is doing something. I mean, if it wasn't your temps would go up and the computer would shut itself off due to temperature. 

 

I don't know if you answered all of my original questions. But let me add this: The thing is is you have it overclocked. What are the temps when it's not overclocked? It's possible that everything is working fine and the cooler simply can't dissipate the heat generated for the current overclock.  When you installed the cooler, did you immediately overclock it? You should establish a baseline temperature with the new cooler. at stock speeds...

 

 

[MisterCyber]

4 hours ago, FrankV said:

Possible, I suppose but I think if this was the case the computer would shut off. Not sure on the behavior in this case. 

 

The thing is, is the cooler is doing something. I mean, if it wasn't your temps would go up and the computer would shut itself off due to temperature. 

 

I don't know if you answered all of my original questions. But let me add this: The thing is is you have it overclocked. What are the temps when it's not overclocked? It's possible that everything is working fine and the cooler simply can't dissipate the heat generated for the current overclock.  When you installed the cooler, did you immediately overclock it? You should establish a baseline temperature with the new cooler. at stock speeds...

 

 

Well before it would sit at 28°C - 40°C at idle before overclocking. Now it just sits at 55°C - 70°C at idle. *But* my dad and I did some work with it and adjusted the fans speeds and did something that got it to 46°C at idle while overclocked. So I know that the cooler can dissipate the heat from the cpu. Maybe not very good. Should I upgrade to a 240mm cooler? Or just get a different brand? Like CoolerMaster? I can get a refund I have only had it for 14 or 15 days by now.

[FrankV]

17 hours ago, MisterCyber said:

Well before it would sit at 28°C - 40°C at idle before overclocking. Now it just sits at 55°C - 70°C at idle. *But* my dad and I did some work with it and adjusted the fans speeds and did something that got it to 46°C at idle while overclocked. So I know that the cooler can dissipate the heat from the cpu. Maybe not very good. Should I upgrade to a 240mm cooler? Or just get a different brand? Like CoolerMaster? I can get a refund I have only had it for 14 or 15 days by now.

It seems like it's working fine. Basically, yeah, the overclock on that processor for that cooler may not be compatible. I'm not experienced with that particular chip (I had an FX before intel), but your temps before overclocking seem pretty good. You add the overclock and it jumps that high... My conclusion is it's too much of an overclock for that cooler. 

 

If I recall right, that is a single 120mm radiator which, generally speaking, isn't too effective at dealing with high overclocks. Yes, a 240mm would be more effective... at least, I imagine it would be.

 

Either replace the cooler with a 240mm or dial back the overclock and power settings.  If you can drop the power settings without changing the clock speed (and it's still stable) your temps should drop a little too. At least, it did for me as I recall. 

[MisterCyber]

19 minutes ago, FrankV said:

It seems like it's working fine. Basically, yeah, the overclock on that processor for that cooler may not be compatible. I'm not experienced with that particular chip (I had an FX before intel), but your temps before overclocking seem pretty good. You add the overclock and it jumps that high... My conclusion is it's too much of an overclock for that cooler. 

 

If I recall right, that is a single 120mm radiator which, generally speaking, isn't too effective at dealing with high overclocks. Yes, a 240mm would be more effective... at least, I imagine it would be.

 

Either replace the cooler with a 240mm or dial back the overclock and power settings.  If you can drop the power settings without changing the clock speed (and it's still stable) your temps should drop a little too. At least, it did for me as I recall. 

Well my computer won't power now. My guess is the CPU got fried from always being to hot. I'll just buy a new CPU and not overclock it. I'm hoping nothing else got fried. But thanks. I am also gonna get a refund and get a new cooler. I feel the one I have isn't very good

[FrankV]

2 minutes ago, MisterCyber said:

Well my computer won't power now. My guess is the CPU got fried from always being to hot. I'll just buy a new CPU and not overclock it. I'm hoping nothing else got fried. But thanks. I am also gonna get a refund and get a new cooler. I feel the one I have isn't very good

Before you give up, clear the CMOS (use the reset Jumper) and try to boot again. You may be (are likely) right that the CPU fried itself but it's still worth a shot. 

[MisterCyber]

3 hours ago, FrankV said:

Before you give up, clear the CMOS (use the reset Jumper) and try to boot again. You may be (are likely) right that the CPU fried itself but it's still worth a shot. 

I'll try it. Idk how it would have fried tho. I used it like 5 minutes before I turned it off and it stopped working 

[MisterCyber]

6 hours ago, FrankV said:

Before you give up, clear the CMOS (use the reset Jumper) and try to boot again. You may be (are likely) right that the CPU fried itself but it's still worth a shot. 

I cannot find the CMOS switch or button. What do I do? I don't have the manual for the motherboard 

[FrankV]

6 hours ago, MisterCyber said:

I cannot find the CMOS switch or button. What do I do? I don't have the manual for the motherboard 

It's not a button or a switch (unless it's a really high end motherboard). It's probably a jumper. 

 

You're gonna want to google it. It's different for each motherboard though usually between brands and product families things are about the same. You should be able to get a PDF of your motherboard manual from the maker. 

[scottyseng]

6 hours ago, MisterCyber said:

I cannot find the CMOS switch or button. What do I do? I don't have the manual for the motherboard 

Yeah, it's usually a jumper. I usually use a screwdriver to jump the pins.

 

Alternative, you can unplug the motherboard from power and remove the CMOS battery and wait for 10 min, that usually wipes the CMOS for me as well.

[sl06bhytmar]

Nobody asked yet but where do you suck power for pump?

 

If you used included 4pin molex adapter to 3 pin molex (fan) then your pump is running only 5V. AIO pumps should be run 10-12V only due magnetic rotor driving unit is not working properly without 12V. Only speed change should be done with PWM and if your pump is not 4-pin fan header then you always run it max speed.

 

If you use motherboard header make sure you're running that header 12V (100% Duty / 12V). Then if you have any air in pump unit then the pump won't be working correctly because these pumps are not able to make vacuum with air thus only circulating a large air bottle inside rotor thus no water being pumped in or out. (Water pressure keeps air from escaping outside). You can notice your pump has air inside by simply listening the pump, it should sound like DC motor running and when it is running properly you only hear small coil whine from inside.

[MisterCyber]

6 hours ago, sl06bhytmar said:

Nobody asked yet but where do you suck power for pump?

 

If you used included 4pin molex adapter to 3 pin molex (fan) then your pump is running only 5V. AIO pumps should be run 10-12V only due magnetic rotor driving unit is not working properly without 12V. Only speed change should be done with PWM and if your pump is not 4-pin fan header then you always run it max speed.

 

If you use motherboard header make sure you're running that header 12V (100% Duty / 12V). Then if you have any air in pump unit then the pump won't be working correctly because these pumps are not able to make vacuum with air thus only circulating a large air bottle inside rotor thus no water being pumped in or out. (Water pressure keeps air from escaping outside). You can notice your pump has air inside by simply listening the pump, it should sound like DC motor running and when it is running properly you only hear small coil whine from inside.

I get power from the motherboard for the pump. It should be enough, because I can power 5 fans at full speed with it. But you may be right. I'm not that good when it comes to repairing custom computers. I'll look more when I get home from school. Also I will try to download the pdf for my motherboard to try to find the jumper. Ill keep updates when I do something.

[MisterCyber]

16 hours ago, sl06bhytmar said:

Nobody asked yet but where do you suck power for pump?

 

If you used included 4pin molex adapter to 3 pin molex (fan) then your pump is running only 5V. AIO pumps should be run 10-12V only due magnetic rotor driving unit is not working properly without 12V. Only speed change should be done with PWM and if your pump is not 4-pin fan header then you always run it max speed.

 

If you use motherboard header make sure you're running that header 12V (100% Duty / 12V). Then if you have any air in pump unit then the pump won't be working correctly because these pumps are not able to make vacuum with air thus only circulating a large air bottle inside rotor thus no water being pumped in or out. (Water pressure keeps air from escaping outside). You can notice your pump has air inside by simply listening the pump, it should sound like DC motor running and when it is running properly you only hear small coil whine from inside.

Just cleared CMOS, nothing happened. Guess my rig is dead. Guess I'll have to buy new pieces. Hopefully something survived.