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17 minutes ago, Hayabusa1989 said:

Hi,

I am trying to help my friend with a purchase of a UPS as we suspect his electrics in his house have blown his 2 month old PSU.

What kinda budget UPS could he get for a system that draws roughly 600-700w maximum ?

 

https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1350AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000OFXKFI

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1350AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000OFXKFI

 

This one does 810 Watt

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What system draws 600 to 700 W !?  Mind if I ask the specs?  

 

At any rate, you'll want to look for one with "PFC" (power factor correction) or "pure sine wave".  This means it emits a, well, pure sine wave when running on battery which is needed by most modern PSUs.  Without this, the PSU will see the incoming power as faulty and just shutoff, making the UPS useless.

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3 minutes ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

What system draws 600 to 700 W !?  Mind if I ask the specs?  

 

At any rate, you'll want to look for one with "PFC" (power factor correction) or "pure sine wave".  This means it emits a, well, pure sine wave when running on battery which is needed by most modern PSUs.  Without this, the PSU will see the incoming power as faulty and just shutoff, making the UPS useless.

5820k Stock
GTX 970
8GB DDR4
1 ssd
1 mechanical

Okay maybe it draws less

Also i marked your answer as funny but its funny and informative. 

Hayabusa

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3 minutes ago, Hayabusa1989 said:

5820k Stock
GTX 970
8GB DDR4
1 ssd
1 mechanical

Okay maybe it draws less

Yeah, for reference, I have a 4770k at stock, an R9 Fury, 32 GB DDR3, 2 SSDs, 1 HDD, and two monitors all running off mine and it rarely breached the 400 W mark.  That said, I have a 600 W UPS and that's the right power level for me imo.  You don't want to push them right to the very limit - it will seriously reduce your run time and could even damage it.

Solve your own audio issues  |  First Steps with RPi 3  |  Humidity & Condensation  |  Sleep & Hibernation  |  Overclocking RAM  |  Making Backups  |  Displays  |  4K / 8K / 16K / etc.  |  Do I need 80+ Platinum?

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7 hours ago, manikyath said:

those have horrible sine wave generation tho :/

That's because they don't have any xD 

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1 minute ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

That's because they don't have any xD 

they have a very *basic* block sinewave "simulation", seeing the stepped approximation on my APC's already sounds like a torture device, i remember seeing one of those block "sinewave simulation" inverters meant for maritime solutions with a very big warning slapped on it not to use it with sensitive electronics. devices like those essentially shouldnt be used with anything but "dumb" loads like stoves and vaccuum cleaners if you intend to not kill your hardware prematurely.

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2 minutes ago, manikyath said:

they have a very *basic* block sinewave "simulation", seeing the stepped approximation on my APC's already sounds like a torture device, i remember seeing one of those block "sinewave simulation" inverters meant for maritime solutions with a very big warning slapped on it not to use it with sensitive electronics. devices like those essentially shouldnt be used with anything but "dumb" loads like stoves and vaccuum cleaners if you intend to not kill your hardware prematurely.

which is why (Apparently) most PSUs will just shut off as if they weren't fed power at all if given this kind of "wave"

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http://www.ebuyer.com/704438-apc-back-ups-700-watt-1400-va-230v-avr-iec-sockets-bx1400ui


do you think this would be a good solution ?

Plus whats heartbreaking is that he had a 2 month old SuperFlower 750w Gold PSU (blown up something literally fell out of the PSU when i removed it)

He had a Seasonic 750 Platinum that died due to a manufacturing fault that Seasonic had (like wtf aren't seasonic the best ? )

He has no luck with PSU's :(

Hayabusa

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1 minute ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

which is why (Apparently) most PSUs will just shut off as if they weren't fed power at all if given this kind of "wave"

i have to say i've gladly used my laptop on one of those several times, but if the manufacturer of a high end $2000+ device with a block wave (that by the way, doesnt make even stepped approximation devices, let alone pure sine) warns you not to use computers on those, i think we shouldnt be recommending them to people :D

 

(and yet, i'm having to report this is the first time people arent calling me an APC sellout for muttering about sine waves..)

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4 hours ago, manikyath said:

i have to say i've gladly used my laptop on one of those several times, but if the manufacturer of a high end $2000+ device with a block wave (that by the way, doesnt make even stepped approximation devices, let alone pure sine) warns you not to use computers on those, i think we shouldnt be recommending them to people :D

 

(and yet, i'm having to report this is the first time people arent calling me an APC sellout for muttering about sine waves..)

No worries, I was the first to bring it up here :P 

13 hours ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

At any rate, you'll want to look for one with "PFC" (power factor correction) or "pure sine wave".  This means it emits a, well, pure sine wave when running on battery which is needed by most modern PSUs.  Without this, the PSU will see the incoming power as faulty and just shutoff, making the UPS useless.

 

As for which model....

4 hours ago, Hayabusa1989 said:

http://www.ebuyer.com/704438-apc-back-ups-700-watt-1400-va-230v-avr-iec-sockets-bx1400ui


do you think this would be a good solution ?

Plus whats heartbreaking is that he had a 2 month old SuperFlower 750w Gold PSU (blown up something literally fell out of the PSU when i removed it)

He had a Seasonic 750 Platinum that died due to a manufacturing fault that Seasonic had (like wtf aren't seasonic the best ? )

He has no luck with PSU's :(

It sounds like your power is particularly bad.  My understanding is that there's 2 kinds of UPSes - those that basically sit back and watch, letting house power flow through until there's a significant upset, at which time they kick in and start generating their own power, and those that constantly absorb the house power and generate 100% of the output clear on the other side.  You might want the better one in this case

Edited by Ryan_Vickers

Solve your own audio issues  |  First Steps with RPi 3  |  Humidity & Condensation  |  Sleep & Hibernation  |  Overclocking RAM  |  Making Backups  |  Displays  |  4K / 8K / 16K / etc.  |  Do I need 80+ Platinum?

If you can read this you're using the wrong theme.  You can change it at the bottom.

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1 minute ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

No worries, I was the first to bring it up here :P 

 

As for which model....

It sounds like your power is particularly bad.  My understanding is that there's 2 kinds of UPSes - those that basically sit back and watch, letting house power flow through until there's a significant upset, at which time they kick in and start generating their own power, and those that constantly absorb the house power and generate 100% of the output clear on the other side.  IIRC these are called "line interactive" and they can be more expensive but I have to wonder if it might be worth it in this situation...

I understand but i have to say that the first PSU didnt fully die, the connection where you plug the power in was faulty. 

Hayabusa

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3 minutes ago, Hayabusa1989 said:

http://www.ebuyer.com/704438-apc-back-ups-700-watt-1400-va-230v-avr-iec-sockets-bx1400ui


do you think this would be a good solution ?

Plus whats heartbreaking is that he had a 2 month old SuperFlower 750w Gold PSU (blown up something literally fell out of the PSU when i removed it)

He had a Seasonic 750 Platinum that died due to a manufacturing fault that Seasonic had (like wtf aren't seasonic the best ? )

He has no luck with PSU's :(

the higher the quality, the less common failures, no one is perfect tho :/

 

i do have to attach a "warning" about APC: i have that exact unit under my desk, but i dont ;)

 

APC, in europe at least, (btw, thats a european unit) has two versions of every device in their back-ups lineup, one with IEC sockets thats slightly cheaper, but has those pesky connectors you'll need near unfindable cables for, and one with regular "schuko" sockets that costs slightly more, but you can plug normal european sockets into the back :P

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3 minutes ago, Hayabusa1989 said:

Do you mean the C13/C14 connections ? Thats easy enough to supply for him and id only really wanna power his Monitor and PC into it.

Also im from and in the UK so i 100% need a European unit right ? 

you need a UK unit.

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1 minute ago, Hayabusa1989 said:

ahh !

 

i dug trough their website... they seemingly only have the powerful units in IEC socket version in the UK, and they're appareantly good to go beyond that.

 

one more piece of advice tho, *DONT* bother with their software, it's garbage, if you plug in the USB cord it actually auto detects as a battery as if you're suddenly on a laptop, and windows can take care of shutting down safely on power loss.

 

if you want more detailed information on your UPS, hwinfo hooks into it just fine :D

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3 hours ago, Hayabusa1989 said:

So could i use the one i posted earlier ?

 

I would. That unit has line interactive voltage regulation at least.

 

Also good brand to check out is Eaton. The 5 series UPS units should be pretty good for your use.

 

I don't recommend a double online conversion UPS, unless your power is truly that bad. They are expensive and kind of loud (They run constantly). They do pretty much make the cleanest power though.

 

I kind of went overkill on my UPS with the Eaton 9130 2000VA unit...

 

Also, as stated above, I'm pretty sure the PC is using 400-450W max. It's probably more about 300-350W under regular gaming load I'd say.

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On 1/24/2017 at 10:33 PM, manikyath said:

i dug trough their website... they seemingly only have the powerful units in IEC socket version in the UK, and they're appareantly good to go beyond that.

 

one more piece of advice tho, *DONT* bother with their software, it's garbage, if you plug in the USB cord it actually auto detects as a battery as if you're suddenly on a laptop, and windows can take care of shutting down safely on power loss.

 

if you want more detailed information on your UPS, hwinfo hooks into it just fine :D

Does this mean he could use the one i posted from ebuyer earlier ?

Hayabusa

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