First Time Delidding w/ 6700K

Awakening · December 12, 2016

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.39 @ SuperBiiz)

CPU Cooler: Koolance CPU-380I Water Block (Intel Processor) - No Fittings

CPU Other: Rockit 88 LGA1150/51 CPU Delider+Relider ($38.00)

CPU Other: Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant 2.7-Ounce Tube (908570) ($4.28 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme 3.5g Thermal Paste ($11.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Thermal Compound: Coollaboratory Liquid Pro 0.15g Thermal Paste ($9.60 @ Jet)
Total: $355.26
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-12 11:56 EST-0500

I'm planning on deliding my CPU for the best temps I can possibly get under water. Since this is my first time doing this, I just want to make sure that everything here is correct. I don't want to ruin a $300+ CPU considering I'd void the warranty doing this and would be ass out of luck if I broke something.

1) Remove IHS with delid tool.

2) Clean stock paste off with 90+% alcohol and clean the black glue off with your fingernail and/or rubber eraser.

3) Add tape to block off everything except for the CPU die.

4) Apply tiny drop of Liquid Pro to CPU die and spread manually. Make the layer as thin as possible and remove excess.

5) Remove tape from CPU.

6) Clean bottom of IHS with alcohol and then apply tape to bottom of IHS so that only a die-sized rectangle is exposed in the center. Apply Liquid Pro the same as before.

7) Remove tape.

8) Add a thin layer of silicone along the outer edges of the bottom of the IHS with a Q-tip.

9) Seat CPU in relid tool.

10) Carefully place IHS onto the CPU trying to have it come down as flat as possible with little side-to-side movement to avoid spreading the Liquid Pro around.

11) Apply pressure to the top of the IHS with the relid tool and wait the specified amount of time for the silicone to dry.

12) Remove from relid tool and use GC-Extreme between the IHS and waterblock instead of Liquid Pro. (CPU die>Liquid Pro>IHS>GC-Extreme>waterblock)

Does anyone see any problems with this?

I also have a few questions:

- Is sanding the IHS necessary?

- Is applying Liquid Pro to the die and the bottom of the IHS necessary or will it make no difference just putting it on only the die?

- I've heard that Liquid Pro solidifies after two days from application. Does this mean it's a permanent solution and wouldn't be a good idea to use on a water-cooled GPU if I ever want to remove the waterblock?

- Is there something better I could use for reattaching the IHS to the CPU?

- Do you have a recommendation for a different delid/relid tool that's cheaper? I don't trust myself doing it with a razer blade and I feel like I'd spread the IHS around too much using the motherboard CPU clamp to relid it.

Thanks.

0ld_Chicken · December 12, 2016

Only thing I'd recommend is to initially apply the clu to different area like a clean plastic container. I've encountered times where it will literally shoot out of the syringe with the slightest bit of pressure and you don't want that anywhere it can touch components.

Beyond that, if you are going to use silicone to reattach the ihs then I'd recommend to actually mount the cpu in the socket of the motherboard to hold it down tight. I'm not sure if the delid tool would do this or not. Lots of people don't even adhere it, they just set it on top and hold it while latching down the arm. I've tried both and had good results both ways.

I don't remember if skylake has fivr but I think they do not. Haswell has components next to the die that most people cover with liquid electrical tape to prevent shorts. I don't think skylake has them though if they do you should probably cover them.

Also I believe that clu is preferred to clp. It's got the same thermal results and is easier to with with. Thermal grizzly's conductanaut is good too. None of them are supposed to form a permanent bond but I have heard of it happening, mostly with clp but also clu. Lots of people use them though so it's hard to say how likely it is.

You can apply to both die and ihs but the most important factor is how much is used. Too little and it won't properly fill the gaps, too much and you've got electricly conductive beads rolling around your pc. You want a thin layer, I usually do both Ihs and die.

Overclock.net has a great delidded club that's full of useful info.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide/31770#post_25705458

Awakening · December 12, 2016

18 minutes ago, 0ld_Chicken said:

Only thing I'd recommend is to initially apply the clu to different area like a clean plastic container. I've encountered times where it will literally shoot out of the syringe with the slightest bit of pressure and you don't want that anywhere it can touch components.

Beyond that, if you are going to use silicone to reattach the ihs then I'd recommend to actually mount the cpu in the socket of the motherboard to hold it down tight. I'm not sure if the delid tool would do this or not. Lots of people don't even adhere it, they just set it on top and hold it while latching down the arm. I've tried both and had good results both ways.

I don't remember if skylake has fivr but I think they do not. Haswell has components next to the die that most people cover with liquid electrical tape to prevent shorts. I don't think skylake has them though if they do you should probably cover them.

Also I believe that clu is preferred to clp. It's got the same thermal results and is easier to with with. Thermal grizzly's conductanaut is good too. None of them are supposed to form a permanent bond but I have heard of it happening, mostly with clp but also clu. Lots of people use them though so it's hard to say how likely it is.

You can apply to both die and ihs but the most important factor is how much is used. Too little and it won't properly fill the gaps, too much and you've got electricly conductive beads rolling around your pc. You want a thin layer, I usually do both Ihs and die.

Overclock.net has a great delidded club that's full of useful info.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide/31770#post_25705458

Thanks for all that. I'll definitely check out that link.

And this is the process of the reilder (but I'll use silicone method the factory did instead of what he's using and doing):

I want to reattach it because I don't want to have to worry about it. If I don't reattach it, I'll have to constantly be aware of it whenever I do anything with the CPU.