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Custom power switch

WowMuchName
Go to solution Solved by Factory Factory,

Modern ATX power switches are very simple. They're SPST momentary switches, and the important stuff all happens on the motherboard. There's no issue of polarity or fancy electronics or anything - any piece of metal that connects the two power switch pins will work (which is why you can start a PC with a screwdriver tip). Just solder the tail from the existing switch (assuming it's not the tail that's broken) to the new switch and you're done. If the tail is broken, pick up a cheap replacement tailed switch and steal its tail.

So my power switch broke two days ago, and I want to get/put together a new one, but I'm not sure if they make them or where to start for parts if I do it myself. 

 

i was thinking getting something like this:

 

power switch.jpg

and this green would fit my setup ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

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Where would you put it? 

CPU - i7-4790k | CPU Cooler - NZXT Kraken X53 | Motherboard -  Asus Gyphon Z97 Armour Edition | RAM - Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB) 2400Mhz | Graphics Card - MSI GTX 1070 | Power Supply - Corsair CS750M | Storage - Seagate 1TB HDD | Samsung 500GB 850 Evo | Case - Fractal Design ARC Mini R2 | Colour Theme - Generic Red & Black

 

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Just now, WowMuchName said:

prob the front panel, with some drilling. if not then just the top of the case

Can you see why the button stopped working? Unplugged or something? It might be an easy fix. 

 

However, if you do want to use that switch, I'd assume you can just solder the two wires onto the motherboard on and off bit. 

CPU - i7-4790k | CPU Cooler - NZXT Kraken X53 | Motherboard -  Asus Gyphon Z97 Armour Edition | RAM - Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB) 2400Mhz | Graphics Card - MSI GTX 1070 | Power Supply - Corsair CS750M | Storage - Seagate 1TB HDD | Samsung 500GB 850 Evo | Case - Fractal Design ARC Mini R2 | Colour Theme - Generic Red & Black

 

Operating System - Windows 10 Pro | Peripherals - Corsair RGB Mechanical K70 Keyboard/Corsair M65 Mouse

Click here to give a damn

 

 

 

 

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well, it actually broke a few months ago, the switch itself out of the button, so I took the switch out and put it thru a PCIe bracket (ghetto fix, but works.), and had the switch behind the case, and just pressed it. anyways, only a wire popped loose at the switch, but I think it's time for a permanent solution. i didn't even think about just soldering the wires, that would work.

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1 minute ago, Jorgen297 said:

I think Linus uses a key to start his pc lol

lol, i used a screwdriver for a week or so :)

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Anything (Buttons, switches etc) that shorts the two pins should work.

I edit my posts a lot.

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Modern ATX power switches are very simple. They're SPST momentary switches, and the important stuff all happens on the motherboard. There's no issue of polarity or fancy electronics or anything - any piece of metal that connects the two power switch pins will work (which is why you can start a PC with a screwdriver tip). Just solder the tail from the existing switch (assuming it's not the tail that's broken) to the new switch and you're done. If the tail is broken, pick up a cheap replacement tailed switch and steal its tail.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG7HO22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to spend 10 bucks on a solution like this. I use it for my test bench. Really useful.

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1 minute ago, Jorgen297 said:

your location tho

Yes, I know Harambe... God damn it.

Main Gaming and Streaming PC: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Vinsinity/saved/TjwVnQ

Ultrabook and College Laptop:

Spoiler

XPS 13 9350:

i5-6200U

8GB RAM

Samsung PM951 250GB M.2 Solid State Drive

Workstation Laptop:

Spoiler

Sager NP8672 (P670SG):

i7-4720HQ

32GB (4 x 8GB) CORSAIR Vengeance Performance

Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2 Solid State Drive (Boot Drive)

Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2 Solid State Drive (Video Drive)

Crucial MX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Secondary SDD Storage)

Western Digital (Blue or Black) 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Storage Drive)

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1 minute ago, WowMuchName said:

Yeah, that would!

 

You don't have 6V in a PC for the LED, but you can try 5V. If that doesn't work, you can do what they suggest and hook up the LED to 12V along with a 470 Ohm resistor in series.

 

Hook up the switch to the NO (normally open) contacts.

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1 minute ago, Factory Factory said:

Yeah, that would!

 

You don't have 6V in a PC for the LED, but you can try 5V. If that doesn't work, you can do what they suggest and hook up the LED to 12V along with a 470 Ohm resistor in series.

 

Hook up the switch to the NO (normally open) contacts.

 

thnx :3

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I just did a little research, you could probably hook up the button's LED onto the Power LED header directly. It *should* give 5V, but it may not be high current because there's an additional resistor on the output on the motherboard. But if it did work and it was bright enough for you, then that seems like a good solution.

 

Do pay attention to polarity for the LED, though. Hook it up backwards and it won't light.

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Just now, Factory Factory said:

I just did a little research, you could probably hook up the button's LED onto the Power LED header directly. It *should* give 5V, but it may not be high current because there's an additional resistor on the output on the motherboard. But if it did work and it was bright enough for you, then that seems like a good solution.

 

thanks again!

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