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Truble with Windows

Kiikuri
By Kiikuri
in Windows
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Go to solution Solved by LogicalDrm,

Oh my... all the conflicting info here.

 

Since its branded OEM key, you can't use it on new mobo. Thats why it also BSODs, Windows doesn't like old mobo drivers running with new mobo. So you need to get new OS. Win10 would be best choice. There's no use even talking about free upgrade, we are over month over the time limit there.

 

Get key (I highly recommend getting retail from store or directly from MS). Download .ISO and burn it to DVD or mount on USB device. Boot from it, install, enter key, install drivers and you are good to go.

Posted

Ok guys, today I received my new parts for my computer which were: Asus Z170 Pro Gaming motherboard, Intel Skylake I5 6600K, 2TB hard drive and 8gb RAM. I used 3 of my older parts which were the PSU, GPU and the hard drive i have the operating system in  (Vista, was going to upgrade to 10 today).So I assembled the PC and tried to start it. When the Windows loading screen came up, I instantly got a blue screen that lasted for about half a second and it restarted my computer and was the 0x0000007b error20160909_233928.mp4. I read online that you can try to change the SATA configuration from AHCI to ATA from your BIOS, but i can't find the options (I have the ASUS UEFI BIOS Utility because of the new motherboard). All i could find was AHCI to RAID mode selection  in the advanced\PCH storage configuration section. I would really appriciate any help you could give me.

 

Here is a video from the blue screen

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You should fresh install Windows

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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15 minutes ago, Kiikuri said:

How do i do that? Do i just buy a new version of windows?

https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10

Running the media creation tool should allow you to create a bootable usb install of windows 10. Back up the data you want off your old drive first though. You will need a code for windows 10 though; vista to 10 is not a free upgrade.

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17 minutes ago, Mr.McMister said:

https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10

Running the media creation tool should allow you to create a bootable usb install of windows 10. Back up the data you want off your old drive first though. You will need a code for windows 10 though; vista to 10 is not a free upgrade.

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Multipress f8 on the bios screen, then you should come up with a windows boot menu and select safe mode, assuming you aren't using windows 10 or 8. id it dues not boot up, play around with the other options until you get a successful boot, then uninstall old drivers and install new ones (you may need another computer to do this), and you should be good. i will look into it in depth if the problem consists, because i was having similar problems. what saved me was the low resolution mode ( new GPU). it would help if you mention both motherboards.

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25 minutes ago, jooroth18 said:

Multipress f8 on the bios screen, then you should come up with a windows boot menu and select safe mode, assuming you aren't using windows 10 or 8. id it dues not boot up, play around with the other options until you get a successful boot, then uninstall old drivers and install new ones (you may need another computer to do this), and you should be good. i will look into it in depth if the problem consists, because i was having similar problems. what saved me was the low resolution mode ( new GPU). it would help if you mention both motherboards.

I don't know what the last one was, but i still have it laying around. The computer was bought from a tech store as a standard home-use pc around 8-11 years ago. It was manufactured by Acer.

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Oh my... all the conflicting info here.

 

Since its branded OEM key, you can't use it on new mobo. Thats why it also BSODs, Windows doesn't like old mobo drivers running with new mobo. So you need to get new OS. Win10 would be best choice. There's no use even talking about free upgrade, we are over month over the time limit there.

 

Get key (I highly recommend getting retail from store or directly from MS). Download .ISO and burn it to DVD or mount on USB device. Boot from it, install, enter key, install drivers and you are good to go.

^^^^ That's my post ^^^^
<-- This is me --- That's your scrollbar -->
vvvv Who's there? vvvv

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3 hours ago, LoGiCalDrm said:

Oh my... all the conflicting info here.

 

Since its branded OEM key, you can't use it on new mobo. Thats why it also BSODs, Windows doesn't like old mobo drivers running with new mobo. So you need to get new OS. Win10 would be best choice. There's no use even talking about free upgrade, we are over month over the time limit there.

 

Get key (I highly recommend getting retail from store or directly from MS). Download .ISO and burn it to DVD or mount on USB device. Boot from it, install, enter key, install drivers and you are good to go.

juu tein niin ja nyt on windows 10 asennettuna ja driverit latauksessa.

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