4K Workflow and Equipment
5 hours ago, WINcon_Gaming said:After much research I've settled on a GH4. While I would like to go for a Sony A7S II, I can't justify the extra $1,200. That's not to say the internal 5x IS wouldn't be awesome. To counter this I'm going to go for either a PANASONIC LUMIX G X Vario Lens, 12-35mm, F2.8 ASPH or the 35-100MM variant, their OIS is the major selling point for me. If I was going to go with one set of glass for quiet sometime which would you recommend, or maybe something else I'm not even considering.
Thank you again for all the great information it's much appreciated mate!
Awesome choice! I know award winning commercial videographers using those things daily.
So one last thing about the camera setup. Lenses.
Now a lot of guys that are newer to this field don't really understand that the lens you're using is SUPER important. As the fact that the camera is only just a box where light is captured. The lens gives you all of the character and depth people are looking for. Now due to this, you're going to want to spend more money on your lenses than you're going to spend on your camera body.
For my own professional still use all nikon and fuji primes for both my nikon and fuji bodies. Now the reason I haven't recommended any of these cameras is because they're mirrored and only really for photography work. Though, for what you're doing- the GH4 is awesome for what you need (hopefully.) Yet, the thing is that the glass is still the most important thing you can ever get for your camera.
Now what I recommend is that you get is one of those older AIS Nikon F mount lenses. They're rather cheap- you can grab a 135 2.8 or a 105 2.5 and it will knock your socks off. These things are legendary in the photo world due to their facial compression, subject isolation (sometimes confused with a thin depth of field), and their general quality. These awesome pics were shot with a 105 2.5. You might recognize the one on the left, it's considered to be one of the most viewed photos of all time.
Here's one taken with a 135 2.8 and here's one of my shots I've got with a 180 2.8. As you can tell, you can get some crazy awesome detail and characteristics you're not going to be able to even touch with one of those crappy panasonic kit lenses. This is what one of these look like- make sure you get something like this- a lot of the lenses I've listed above look similar. Make sure they're either Ai or AIs. Non AI (q) mount lenses will monkey up your adapter (which is what you have to use to make it fit on the 4/3 mount system your gh4 will have).
All this awesome stuff will run you a few hundred, which is awesome considering it'll be a few THOUSAND if you went to seek that kind of quality otherwise. But for your other stuff, try and get a lens without OIS. I know it sounds cool, but for the effect to work there's actually a little element in the lens that literally vibrates to counteract the shaking you put into the camera. And as you can tell, the results look pretty nasty. With the entire focal plane shifting in a really weird unnatural way. Not only do these lesnes, because of this system, have bad image quality- but do they also cost WAY more than lenses at the same price point.
Now what I would do if I were you is get something like a used Voightlander Nokt 4/3 lens. These things are german made lenses, mostly based off of ten thousand dollar Leica lenses. You can get something like this that isn't only going to give you AMAZING quality, super awesome performance, superior construction, and whatnot. Though, what a lot of that money is going towards is that 0.95 aperture, which is just insane at that focal length. You could use this for just about every normal thing you'd want to, and also have the capabilities of opening it wide open for shooting in the middle of the night. And with the reduced price, you can actually go and get a cage or something else for stabilizing your image at a physical level.
Now I know what you're thinking- no zooms? It's crazy. I've been using only primes in my professional career forever and I've never had a single problem with them. I actually prefer them. Not only because, as you can tell now, they have much much superior quality over zooms- but do they also make me think more about my shot and not just turn a wheel to get everything I want. With a prime you're going to have to think about where you're putting your camera and move your feet accordingly. You have to see the image in your head before you see it through your viewfinder. Which, when you're first starting out, actually really helps you improve.
Also- one last thing is that all of these lenses are manual focus. Which means the camera doesn't actually focus the lens, you do. There's a big wheel on there you have to turn that focuses it. At first it can be a little disorienting to have to manually focus- but for video, ti's a must. You will never see an autofocus lens on a professional set. That's because cameras are only instruments- tools. They don't know how to focus a camera. That's why you'll need to manual focus, because not only can it actually be faster than auto focus (once you get the hang of it), but do your images typically come out much sharper after you've had some practice.
Finally, I want to just say that this is all a bit different from what a lot of internet video guys do. The setup you had was good- and like I said in the previous post, it's all professional. That OIS lens is professional and you will get professional results. Though- if you want to get the best image you possibly can for your money that will blow your viewers away, there are other options out there.
Also, P.S- if you're looking into getting any of these used lenses, watch this video on checking older lenses for mistreatment and nastiness. It's an awesome video and it's a must see if you're buying stuff greymarket, which I highly recommenced.
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