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Which windows version?

BlackHat2000
By BlackHat2000
in Windows
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Posted

Either one really. I'd just get the cheaper one.

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

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Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (9TB partition for general storage + 2TB partition for dumping ground), 4x 8TB WD White Label/Red (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

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Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

OptiPlex 7040M

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Intel Core i7 6700, 2x16GB Mushkin Redline (stuck at 2133MHz CL13), 240GB Corsair MP510, 130w Dell power brick, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

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Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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Windows 10 or Windows 7?

If Windows 7 is cheaper then buy it, you can activate Windows 10 too with that serial code until July 2016.

My rigs:

Spoiler

NEW Ryzinator build:

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 9 3950X 8-Core Processor

Motherboard: Asus - PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4

RAM: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 @ DDR4-3066

Storage: (3x) Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5", Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280

PSU: Seasonic Prime TX-750

OS: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

Additional fan: Noctua - NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan

Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case

GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 580 Dual OC 4GB

Display: MSI 27L Optix MAG272QP @ 165Hz

 

OLD Build (SOLD):

CPU: AMD FX-6100 Motherboard: ASRock 960GM/U3S3 FX (VRM overheating, don't buy) RAM: 8GB Kingston ValueRAM GPU: Onboard ATI Radeon 3000 Graphics Case: Corsair Obsidian 500D Storage: Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB, 119GB SAMSUNG MMCRE28G5MXP-0VBH1 (SSD), 465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AZRX-00L4HB0 (SATA)  PSU: Be quiet! - Straight Power 10 400 Watt Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO OS: Windows 10 Pro x64 

 

Retro gaming build:

CPU: Intel Pentium 3 Coppermine @ 800MHz Motherboard: Asus P2B i440BX BIOS 1012 FSB: 133 MHz RAM: 1x 128MB Hynix PC133 SDR SDRAM GPU: ATi Radeon 9200 256MB AGP Case: Full Tower case (unbranded) Storage: CompactFlash card to IDE converter (16GB card) Sound Card: Aztech 2320 ISA Cooling: Stock heatsink fan OS: Windows 98 Second Edition

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windows 10. Just be sure to install some sort of spyware disabling software like spybot to disable the features on win10 that allow microsoft to collect a lot of data on you. and also do it yourself as well.

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windows 10. Just be sure to install some sort of spyware disabling software like spybot to disable the features on win10 that allow microsoft to collect a lot of data on you. and also do it yourself as well.

Get the cheaper key, then if 7 upgrade to 10 and use Spybot Anti-Beacon.

Spoiler

Prometheus (Main Rig)

CPU-Z Verification

Laptop: 

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Intel Core i3-5005U, 8GB RAM, Crucial MX 100 128GB, Touch-Screen, Intel 7260 WiFi/Bluetooth card.

 Phone:

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TruPureX, Asus Zenwatch 3.

 Game Consoles:

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Softmodded Fat PS2 w/ 80GB HDD, and a Dreamcast.

 

If you want my attention quote my post, or tag me. If you don't use PCPartPicker I will ignore your build.

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Get the cheaper key, then if 7 upgrade to 10 and use Spybot Anti-Beacon.

You don't have to upgrade when you have a Windows 7 key, you can just put Windows 7, 8 or 8.1 serial codes into Windows 10 installation program. Provided that you have a USB stick of version 1511. 

My rigs:

Spoiler

NEW Ryzinator build:

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 9 3950X 8-Core Processor

Motherboard: Asus - PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4

RAM: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 @ DDR4-3066

Storage: (3x) Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5", Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280

PSU: Seasonic Prime TX-750

OS: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

Additional fan: Noctua - NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan

Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case

GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 580 Dual OC 4GB

Display: MSI 27L Optix MAG272QP @ 165Hz

 

OLD Build (SOLD):

CPU: AMD FX-6100 Motherboard: ASRock 960GM/U3S3 FX (VRM overheating, don't buy) RAM: 8GB Kingston ValueRAM GPU: Onboard ATI Radeon 3000 Graphics Case: Corsair Obsidian 500D Storage: Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB, 119GB SAMSUNG MMCRE28G5MXP-0VBH1 (SSD), 465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AZRX-00L4HB0 (SATA)  PSU: Be quiet! - Straight Power 10 400 Watt Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO OS: Windows 10 Pro x64 

 

Retro gaming build:

CPU: Intel Pentium 3 Coppermine @ 800MHz Motherboard: Asus P2B i440BX BIOS 1012 FSB: 133 MHz RAM: 1x 128MB Hynix PC133 SDR SDRAM GPU: ATi Radeon 9200 256MB AGP Case: Full Tower case (unbranded) Storage: CompactFlash card to IDE converter (16GB card) Sound Card: Aztech 2320 ISA Cooling: Stock heatsink fan OS: Windows 98 Second Edition

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You don't have to upgrade when you have a Windows 7 key, you can just put Windows 7, 8 or 8.1 serial codes into Windows 10 installation program. Provided that you have a USB stick of version 1511. 

I didn't know that, thanks for that info.

Spoiler

Prometheus (Main Rig)

CPU-Z Verification

Laptop: 

Spoiler

Intel Core i3-5005U, 8GB RAM, Crucial MX 100 128GB, Touch-Screen, Intel 7260 WiFi/Bluetooth card.

 Phone:

Spoiler

TruPureX, Asus Zenwatch 3.

 Game Consoles:

Spoiler

Softmodded Fat PS2 w/ 80GB HDD, and a Dreamcast.

 

If you want my attention quote my post, or tag me. If you don't use PCPartPicker I will ignore your build.

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