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I recently got an Xbox One controller and the right trigger had a weak click as it was pushed in but the left trigger was nice and smooth.  I know someone who has an Xbox One controller and both their triggers were smooth so I requested an exchange for a new one from Amazon, but this one now has both triggers clicking.  Is this normal with a newer version of the controller or am I getting bad controllers?

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If you're not using the xbox controller for xbox get a ps4 controller. im on my third one thats appeared working but starting showing its issues well after I bought it

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If you're not using the xbox controller for xbox get a ps4 controller. im on my third one thats appeared working but starting showing its issues well after I bought it

I'm using it on PC but I prefer the Xbox Controller and it's far easier to use with Windows than the PS4 controller.  Do you know if it's normal for the newer triggers to click?

12600k | MSI MEG S280 | SSUPD Meshilicious | Asus ROG STRIX Z690-I | Crucial 16GB 4800MHz CL38 | MSI Gaming 980Ti | CM V850 SFX | WD SN850 1TB, WD SN550 1TB 
Pi 4TB NAS | Asus VG27AQ, Asus PB278Q | Logitech G Pro X Superlight | Glorious G-HXL-STEALTH | Keychron K4 V2 | Sennheiser HD 599 w/ Fiio E10
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i too use a ds4 controller for PC gaming, and enjoy it much better with my smaller hands.

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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I'm using it on PC but I prefer the Xbox Controller and it's far easier to use with Windows than the PS4 controller.  Do you know if it's normal for the newer triggers to click?

click hen fully engaged? yes. that's normal. 

 

use input mapper, it makes it easy as 3.14159 with windows 10

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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click hen fully engaged? yes. that's normal. 

 

use input mapper, it makes it easy as 3.14159 with windows 10

They click after about 2mm of travel.  I'm not looking to get a PS4 controller.

12600k | MSI MEG S280 | SSUPD Meshilicious | Asus ROG STRIX Z690-I | Crucial 16GB 4800MHz CL38 | MSI Gaming 980Ti | CM V850 SFX | WD SN850 1TB, WD SN550 1TB 
Pi 4TB NAS | Asus VG27AQ, Asus PB278Q | Logitech G Pro X Superlight | Glorious G-HXL-STEALTH | Keychron K4 V2 | Sennheiser HD 599 w/ Fiio E10
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if they click but aren't fully engaged that shouldn't happen. 

 

you can always try taking it apart and seeing if the plastic is not properly shaved inside and file it a little yourself. 

the only other reason they would click that i can think of is that the springs on the rocker pins are misaligned, and "ticking" as they drag over where they should be, then back across. 

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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I'm using it on PC but I prefer the Xbox Controller and it's far easier to use with Windows than the PS4 controller.  Do you know if it's normal for the newer triggers to click?

What do you mean, not go in fully? just try and push the trigger up if that makes sense

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if they click but aren't fully engaged that shouldn't happen. 

 

you can always try taking it apart and seeing if the plastic is not properly shaved inside and file it a little yourself. 

the only other reason they would click that i can think of is that the springs on the rocker pins are misaligned, and "ticking" as they drag over where they should be, then back across. 

I'd rather return it for another than void my warranty.  It does feel like something is catching though, if I push the triggers at an angle they are smooth.

 

What do you mean, not go in fully? just try and push the trigger up if that makes sense

The triggers travel all the way and bottom out, they have full movement but click on the way down about 2mm in.

12600k | MSI MEG S280 | SSUPD Meshilicious | Asus ROG STRIX Z690-I | Crucial 16GB 4800MHz CL38 | MSI Gaming 980Ti | CM V850 SFX | WD SN850 1TB, WD SN550 1TB 
Pi 4TB NAS | Asus VG27AQ, Asus PB278Q | Logitech G Pro X Superlight | Glorious G-HXL-STEALTH | Keychron K4 V2 | Sennheiser HD 599 w/ Fiio E10
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I'd rather return it for another than void my warranty.  It does feel like something is catching though, if I push the triggers at an angle they are smooth.

 

The triggers travel all the way and bottom out, they have full movement but click on the way down about 2mm in.

yeah, sounds like hangoff unshaved plastic or a spring's flat end. 

 

well, i guess return it then. i don't know if taking it apart voids the warranty or not. 

IDGAF about warranties so i disregard them constantly.

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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