GPU load 0% (while gaming)

[Mise]

Hello guys i have problem with my gpu.I have replaced my Radeon R7 250 and Goldenfield 350W PSU with GTX 960 and Cooler Master B700 (used PSU with R9 280 for at least 2 years)

 

-I tryed the GTX 960 on 350w psu but the pc was shutting down when i open a game or something else.

-I replaced the 350W with my new (used*) Cooler Master B700w 55Ampers.

-The pc was working,no shut downs,no problems but the psu was getting realy hot while i was gaming.

-First i was scared because firs time in my life i see the psu is hot..My Codegen 400w and 350w goldenfield were not hot while i was gaming with R7 250

-I asked my frends and on some forums and they told me that psu is normal to get warm while gaming or on full load.

-When i opened Batman Arkham Knigh everything was changed....

 

- The game works fine but sometimes frezes and lags like hell.I opened msi afterburner to see what is the problem.

-While batman PC test there were big lags and frezes i mean GPU load was 95% than drops to 22% and 0% than up to 77% and again 0%...

-While gpu load fall down the fps too like 2-5fps.The frezes last for 2-10 seconds and again...

-And in free roam also or in misions gpu load fall to low numbers and even 0% and i cant play the game normal.

-When the game was lagging the audio was strange...i mean the sounds from the game and i did not reach more than 30fps.

-Game settings are on normal/textures on low cuz i have 2gb vram and 1080p res.

 

-I have uninstaled some amd drivers from my R7 250,Downloaded the latest nvidia drivers,Optimied batman using gefoce exepirience and unlocked the game to 80fps max.I opened the game and sow that GPU Load was 80-99% and cpu load was increased also.

-I runed the test and i did not sow frezes or gpu load goin down but ....The frezes came back but no so much like last time.

-While im doing some mission or if theres action the game sometimes frezes,fps drop and gpu load also.

 

-How can i fiz this problem ?

-Is psu cousing this ?

 

-When im playing World of thanks on max 1080p gpu load is 99% and there are no problems or lags also in Beam NG drive/Cities Skylines/Project Cars/Battlefield 3-(GPU LOAD is 66-80% and fps are locked to 60 alos maxed out 1080p)

-Its inposible this sistem to use 700w right?

 

CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz

MB: Foxcon H61-MXE-V

RAM: 6GB DDR3 Kingston Hyper X 1600MHz

GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 Mini ITX OC 2GB GDDR5 

HDD: 2x500 GB Seagate 7200Rpm Sata II

PSU: Cooler Master B700 55Ampres (used)

OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 x64bit 

CASE: Standard Desktop (bad airflow)

 

-The PC is clean from dust,just the psu is getting warm while im playing,gpu temp goes up to 70C and CPU also 70C

 

Thank you for reading this and helping me out

PS: My english is bad sory.

 

 

 

 

[ManIkWeet]

Your PSU is fine, it will not cause freezes/low fps, unless you overclock maybe.

 

You want to remove every trace of both drivers on your system, a good program for this is Display Driver Uninstaller.

 

Good luck!

[Naeaes]

It's probably ripple in the +12V rail. The voltage deviating from what it should be. PSU over heating will do that. Use CPU-Z to see if that's what's happening.

[Naeaes]

Your PSU is fine, it will not cause freezes/low fps, unless you overclock maybe.

 

You want to remove every trace of both drivers on your system, a good program for this is Display Driver Uninstaller.

 

Good luck!

Whoa. We totally disagree. Let's see how this turns out.

[Mise]

Whoa. We totally disagree. Let's see how this turns out.

How to see that ? I started to measure with sensor log using gpuz and i sow that tdp was like 80 and sometimes droped to 20 and also gpu load.But if gpu load drops than tdp too i dont get it

+ I forgot while i was playing the game the LED red was shining whole time especialy when the game was lagging and it continiues when i exit the game ...+ The pc lag as hell and i need to wait up to 5 minutes to stabilized it

[Naeaes]

How to see that ? I started to measure with sensor log using gpuz and i sow that tdp was like 80 and sometimes droped to 20 and also gpu load.But if gpu load drops than tdp too i dont get it

+ I forgot while i was playing the game the LED red was shining whole time especialy when the game was lagging and it continiues when i exit the game ...+ The pc lag as hell and i need to wait up to 5 minutes to stabilized it

It's those 12V (The incoming 12V voltage), VDDC (Operting voltage for GPU), VDDCI (Operating voltage of the VRAM). You're looking for correlation between the lag and a drop in those values. It'll only show values that your GPU gives out. If id doesn't give the 12V value, you cold try HWMonitor to get that too.

[Mise]

It's those 12V (The incoming 12V voltage), VDDC (Operting voltage for GPU), VDDCI (Operating voltage of the VRAM). You're looking for correlation between the lag and a drop in those values. It'll only show values that your GPU gives out. If id doesn't give the 12V value, you cold try HWMonitor to get that too.

I went to bios and sow my 12v...Strange hm monitr and gpuz dont show it.I n bios 12v : +12.240V......+ I can hear strange nois from my pc like 323123 light shock in 1 sec but its so hard to hear them... I will get this psu to his owner and get my money back that son of a bich.I dont want to destroy my gtx 960 and everything inside

[ManIkWeet]

I went to bios and sow my 12v...Strange hm monitr and gpuz dont show it.I n bios 12v : +12.240V......+ I can hear strange nois from my pc like 323123 light shock in 1 sec but its so hard to hear them... I will get this psu to his owner and get my money back that son of a bich.I dont want to destroy my gtx 960 and everything inside

The PSU is from a decently known brand, and should EASILY handle your GPU.

 

Heat coming from the PSU is only a good thing, as it's heat going away from the components.

 

Have you tried the driver thing yet?

It's VERY common that NVIDIA/AMD drivers mess eachother up (mostly NVIDIA messing up with AMD)

[Mise]

The PSU is from a decently known brand, and should EASILY handle your GPU.

 

Heat coming from the PSU is only a good thing, as it's heat going away from the components.

 

Have you tried the driver thing yet?

It's VERY common that NVIDIA/AMD drivers mess eachother up (mostly NVIDIA messing up with AMD)

I will try this things,uninstal everything like game booster to drivers..and iinstall chipest driver updates for mobo H61.

Is this wierd ?-I runed CPU-Z cpu stress test and the pc frezes like i cant move the mouse for 5 seconds ?

Thx for reply

[Mise]

It's probably ripple in the +12V rail. The voltage deviating from what it should be. PSU over heating will do that. Use CPU-Z to see if that's what's happening.

You were right...Today ia heave seen some liquid on the psu and hdd it was strange but some electolite must cause these...it will blow up some day and the liquid is coming from psu.So thats why i cant get full power the electrolite is leaking  Thx very much and Antec 400W or Cooler Master 500w 20A wghat is better ?

[Naeaes]

You were right...Today ia heave seen some liquid on the psu and hdd it was strange but some electolite must cause these...it will blow up some day and the liquid is coming from psu.So thats why i cant get full power the electrolite is leaking  Thx very much and Antec 400W or Cooler Master 500w 20A wghat is better ?

Do you have the exact models for those?

[Mise]

Do you have the exact models for those?

PSU 800W Hantol 20+4pin,600W Real Power, 4xSATA,2xIDE,2XPCI-E,12cm Fan, 80 Plus Silver, Full CE-- vs -- PSU 500W CoolerMaster Elite RS-500PSAP-J3,PFC,12cm Fan --or -- ANTEC VP 400 pc 80plus ??

[Naeaes]

PSU 800W Hantol 20+4pin,600W Real Power, 4xSATA,2xIDE,2XPCI-E,12cm Fan, 80 Plus Silver, Full CE-- vs -- PSU 500W CoolerMaster Elite RS-500PSAP-J3,PFC,12cm Fan --or -- ANTEC VP 400 pc 80plus ??

OK. Well none of those are particularly good, but I guess the Cooler Master RS-500PSAP-J3 could be considered least bad. That Hantol seems sketchy AF and the Antec is a bit on the weak side.

[Mise]

OK. Well none of those are particularly good, but I guess the Cooler Master RS-500PSAP-J3 could be considered least bad. That Hantol seems sketchy AF and the Antec is a bit on the weak side.

Thx realt.I would go with Cooler Master but Hantol is not so bad right ?-And yes dows ampers realy matter because for gtx 960 you need minimum 400w with 29A and the psu has only 20A is that bad ?   :-]

[Naeaes]

Thx realt.I would go with Cooler Master but Hantol is not so bad right ?-And yes dows ampers realy matter because for gtx 960 you need minimum 400w with 29A and the psu has only 20A is that bad ?   :-]

Umm. The Hantol is really actual crap. The "800W yada-yada 600W Real Power" should be a dead giveaway alone but take a look at this:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8978 (Cement blobs instead of electric components ?!)

 

GTX960 doesn't draw 29 Amperes. More like 10A or 12A in total. It's a 120W TDP card as stock. But it's not the only component that needs to be fed. Two +12V rails @ 20A each is enough and gives leeway in case of problems like the ones you experienced with overheating. I would have gone with a 40A single rail but it'd be more expensive. 

[Mise]

Umm. The Hantol is really actual crap. The "800W yada-yada 600W Real Power" should be a dead giveaway alone but take a look at this:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8978 (Cement blobs instead of electric components ?!)

 

GTX960 doesn't draw 29 Amperes. More like 10A or 12A in total. It's a 120W TDP card as stock. But it's not the only component that needs to be fed. Two +12V rails @ 20A each is enough and gives leeway in case of problems like the ones you experienced with overheating. I would have gone with a 40A single rail but it'd be more expensive. 

 

Umm. The Hantol is really actual crap. The "800W yada-yada 600W Real Power" should be a dead giveaway alone but take a look at this:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8978 (Cement blobs instead of electric components ?!)

 

GTX960 doesn't draw 29 Amperes. More like 10A or 12A in total. It's a 120W TDP card as stock. But it's not the only component that needs to be fed. Two +12V rails @ 20A each is enough and gives leeway in case of problems like the ones you experienced with overheating. I would have gone with a 40A single rail but it'd be more expensive. 

I will go with cooler master 21A and i think its enough.The electrolite cant be replaced right ?

[Naeaes]

I will go with cooler master 21A and i think its enough.The electrolite cant be replaced right ?

Cool.

 

If you got bulging or leaking capacitors, you'll have to replace the capacitors altogether. You can't just go and pour more electrolyte in.  

[Mise]

Cool.

 

If you got bulging or leaking capacitors, you'll have to replace the capacitors altogether. You can't just go and pour more electrolyte in.

You real helped me out thx a lot man love ya and i have last question on this B700 ist writen +12V -55A (660W) and on -12 there are only 0.3A whats the diference between B700 and elite CM 500w Where +12 is 20A and -12 its 20A ? Is -12 and +12 are the same and the amper are 40 (-12 + (+12) = 40 ot not ?

[Naeaes]

You real helped me out thx a lot man love ya and i have last question on this B700 ist writen +12V -55A (660W) and on -12 there are only 0.3A whats the diference between B700 and elite CM 500w Where +12 is 20A and -12 its 20A ? Is -12 and +12 are the same and the amper are 40 (-12 + (+12) = 40 ot not ?

Cooler master B700 can deliver 55A from a single +12V rail. The Elite V2 has dual rails which can deliver 18A and 21A. The difference is that a single rail can be used by one big power hog component or however many components need it but dual rails can't can only feed two sets of less powerful components. Dual rails are cheaper to manufacture so it's a very common feature in lower-end power supplies. I'd always go for the single rail. 

 

The -12V rail isn't important in home computers these days. The feature only exists for backwards compatibility reasons. The old COM ports used -12V to signify a 1-bit. Some machines like CNC-mills still use the RS232 for signaling. If anyone's interested, this -12V thing is the reason why the USB-RS232 adapters sometimes work and sometimes don't. If the device requires the -12V 1-bit, it won't run off of a USB adapter. USB doesn't have -12V.

[Mise]

Cooler master B700 can deliver 55A from a single +12V rail. The Elite V2 has dual rails which can deliver 18A and 21A. The difference is that a single rail can be used by one big power hog component or however many components need it but dual rails can't can only feed two sets of less powerful components. Dual rails are cheaper to manufacture so it's a very common feature in lower-end power supplies. I'd always go for the single rail. 

 

The -12V rail isn't important in home computers these days. The feature only exists for backwards compatibility reasons. The old COM ports used -12V to signify a 1-bit. Some machines like CNC-mills still use the RS232 for signaling. If anyone's interested, this -12V thing is the reason why the USB-RS232 adapters sometimes work and sometimes don't. If the device requires the -12V 1-bit, it won't run off of a USB adapter. USB doesn't have -12V.

Thx and one last question..Its 2nd tier not bronze,platinum but its relly good PSU its Antec VP450P-EC.Also have dual 12V and i think will be good for the system right ?

[Naeaes]

Thx and one last question..Its 2nd tier not bronze,platinum but its relly good PSU its Antec VP450P-EC.Also have dual 12V and i think will be good for the system right ?

Sure, for your system, but It'll rule out a lot of upgrade options in the future.