Mionix Avior SK Mouse Weight Mod

runit3 · July 30, 2015

Mionix Avior SK Weight Mod

Materials

Mouse (derp)

1 oz. Tungsten Putty

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AG3C3W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01

1 oz. Tungsten Spheres

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TY3CAY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Cable sleeving

Lighter

Scissors

Dual spudger+poker tool

Small Phillips Screwdriver

Purpose

I love my Mionix Avior SK, but it was way too light for me. At 100g and no weight options I knew I wanted to end up a little bit heavier than my last EVGA Torq X10 (128g). I figured I could start with the putty (netting me 128.35g) and then add in the spheres if I felt like I wanted a bit more. Ended up doing the full 2oz, total mouse weight is now 156.7g (no cable).

Pros

-(potentially) custom weighting ratio for front/rear of the mouse

-Heavier feel

-Smoother tracking if you’re heavy handed

-Tungsten (19.25g/cm³) is both more dense than lead (11.34g/cm³), and non-toxic

-Putty conforms however you would like it to, extremely easy to work with

Cons

-Depending on the interior PCB placement using uncoated Tungsten may short out the board (it is conductive)

-The spheres are somewhat difficult to work with, and placement can be problematic

Steps

1) Grab your spudger+poker and put the tip between the 3 lined segments that hold down the snap-in mechanism for your mouse backbone and L+R click. It should easily begin to pop out.

2) Once you have removed the top piece flip the mouse over and using the spudger apply as much downward force as possible, gently sliding it forward to begin to peel off the rear slider. Underneath there will be two Philips screws. Remove them.

3) Poke the spudger through the reverse side where the phillips screws were to pop out the bottom white paneling. DO NOT FORCE IT! Also make sure the bottom panel is flat on a secure surface, as there is a ribbon connector between the top and bottom clamshells. Disconnect the ribbon from the bottom half, it’s much easier this way.

4) Look at the bottom panel, and your weighting equipment, and decide how you would like the overall weight distribution to end up. After looking everything over I decided putting all the weight in the rear of the top clamshell would be the easiest/safest option.

5) Begin by placing a line of putty down an area, then pressing it in with the spudger. Take the Poker and create the appropriate number of dimples for the spheres to fit into. Place them in and press with the flat side of the spudger to secure them.

6) After you are satisfied with an area flatten out another piece of putty and place it over the spheres. Press in the corners to seal it to the bottom half of putty.

7) After I had a solid foundation of putty I started using the clamshell to hold in the spheres, then added a securing layer of putty on top to keep them in place. As long as you have solidly pressed in your foundation the putty has enough tack to hold in any additional spheres, even if there is a gap between the base clamshell and top of the mouse.

8) Forgot to take the finished shot of both sides filled with spheres and putty, but it should be fairly apparent at this point what I did. I had 10 spheres left over and decided that I could place 5 on each side of the base. To insulate them and keep them from rolling all over the damn place I used some sleeving I had lying around to make little sphere baskets. The upside to sleeving is that you can create custom sizing and melt them shut. Pictured below.

9) Check the final weighting of the mouse. If you’re happy button it back together in reverse from steps #3-1. Use the spudger to fully flatten out the slider, unless you completely borked it and ruined the adhesive. These gliders seem fairly resilient to me and I have no sticking or bubbling issues.

10) All done! I don’t have a scale lying around, so I can’t show before/after realized weights, but I would assume the Tungsten kits were accurately weighted, and Mionix lists the mouse’s weight accurately.