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Hey, i've made a few posts on a gaming laptop that i had problems with (the external case broke, but the components were fine, so i turned it into a wall mounted pc with a few monitors and stuff)

 

But i feel like I am insecure on playing intense gaming on it. Not because it isn't capable of, but because it is overclocked from store (an haswell quad core i7 4800mq from 2.7 to 3.7 ghz), so it has very high temps, even though i am pointing a fan to the cpu.

 

What i wanted, was to ziptie a desktop cooler to the laptop socket, and mount it in place to properly cool the pc to decent temps, not going over 90ºc (1st and 3rd core sometimes go over 90ºc)

 

My idea was to cut off the heatpipe that goes to the cpu , and leave the heatpipe that goes to the gpu untouched.

 

then, on the cpu socket, ziptie a desktop cooler.

 

But, the problem is that not every cpu cooler will fit, they seem to be very huge, so I need a cpu cooler, that is, at the same time, a good cpu cooler, and that has a small cooling block.

 

the block must be, at max 35*50 mm, because that is how far the screw holes are from each other in the PCB.

 

Is there any cpu cooler that fits this conditions? Or, even better, that has the screws 35mm and 50mm far apart from each other?

 

(like this)

 

X--------------------50mm---------------------X

|                                                          |

|                                                          |

|                                                          35mm

|                                                          |

|                                                          |

X--------------------------------------------------X

 

thank you!!!

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seal off the end of the heatpipe's fins and run water though it.

 

^ what he said

 

if you can manage that, it'll be pretty neat, interesting to look at and have decent temperatures. you can re-use the CPU blower fan to blow air over the motherboard

 

i dont understand.. how? there is only one pipe going to the cpu, and another going to the gpu. 

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Bend the existing heatpipes with fins on the end so they protrude out of the case and put an enclosure over the heatsink fins and connect it to a watercooler.

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i dont thing that would work? 

 

here is a pic of the pcb and a scheme below

 

-snip-

Just remove the fan and turn it into a waterblock and connect a desktop watercooler setup to it.

post-128204-0-63556600-1436221259_thumb.

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Much better than my drawing from my phone.

paint skills >9000 :D  i'm in the art-class so you can expect real baller drawings, you know? :D

                                                                                      wow... pretty empty here...

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Just remove the fan and turn it into a waterblock and connect a desktop watercooler setup to it.

attachicon.gifufEzfnq.jpg

 

 

 

 

omg that is crazy i didn't imagine that.. so, i run a normal watercooling system, without a waterblock.

 

instead of a waterblock, i put some kind of second reservoir, that seals in the fins and lets no water pass through, "washing" the fins, and carrying the heat away from the fins.

 

aweasome idea!

 

i think im gonna do that!

 

PS: Would a 120mm radiator be good for that? or it's better a 240? Its a laptop cpu and a geforce gtx 765m gpu..

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Just make sure that if the fins are aluminium to use an appropriate setup. It corrodes much easier than copper or nickel.

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omg that is crazy i didn't imagine that.. so, i run a normal watercooling system, without a waterblock.

 

instead of a waterblock, i put some kind of second reservoir, that seals in the fins and lets no water pass through, "washing" the fins, and carrying the heat away from the fins.

 

aweasome idea!

 

i think im gonna do that!

 

PS: Would a 120mm radiator be good for that? or it's better a 240? Its a laptop cpu and a geforce gtx 765m gpu..

a 120mm rad will be plenty and the corsair ones are aluminium so if you have an aluminium stock heatsink on your laptop thats fine. if you have copper or some other metal use anti corrosive like you put in cars. just be sure to seal that shit real good and let the cooler run for half an hour to test for leaks before you actually turn on the laptop or give it power at all

have fun modding

                                                                                      wow... pretty empty here...

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a 120mm rad will be plenty and the corsair ones are aluminium so if you have an aluminium stock heatsink on your laptop thats fine. if you have copper or some other metal use anti corrosive like you put in cars. just be sure to seal that shit real good and let the cooler run for half an hour to test for leaks before you actually turn on the laptop or give it power at all

have fun modding

as i said, the heatpipes are copper, fins aluminum, so i use aluminum radiator, anti corrosive liquid and seal that real good. ok

 

do you guys have any idea on what kind of thing would i use to sorround the fins and heatipes? something that i could put the pipes, and seal very good?

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You could probably just solder a copper pipe on top of the heatpipe. It would make the plumbing easier.

 

a 120mm rad will be plenty and the corsair ones are aluminium so if you have an aluminium stock heatsink on your laptop thats fine. if you have copper or some other metal use anti corrosive like you put in cars. just be sure to seal that shit real good and let the cooler run for half an hour to test for leaks before you actually turn on the laptop or give it power at all

have fun modding

 

so, here's the deal. I'll use:

 

120mm radiator aluminum

200ml water reservoir

Cooler Master Sickle Flow 120mm (fan)

1meter of transparent silicon pipe

a Pump that i still need to find, i don't know how much liter/hour would be enough, im considering a 300 liter/h one, or maybe 500 liter/h.

Get some glowing blue coolant (match my fan, keyboard, mouse, other fan, usb hub, speaker light, motherboard, etc)

 

And, in the fins, this will hapen:

 

9gSEXfU.jpg

 

what do you think? total catastrophe? win? ghetto style ?

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I would try to run water through the fins and just put the ehole fin assembly inside of a PVC... something. But you are on the right track

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