Jump to content

I found this wonderful guide on the subject over at overclockers http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/248700-Wiring-up-LED%E2%80%99s-through-a-Molex-connecter

 

Alternative MODing
Wiring up LED’s through a Molex connecter
 
One of the most important additions to a case is light and you have many choices about method’s of lighting to use for your case. In this project we will examine use, selection, and wiring of Light Emitting Diodes (LED's).
 
Selecting the correct LED
Of the many choices of led out there, how do you know which one is for you? Selecting the correct LED’s for your case is almost as important as the window, cable wrap, or even the heatsink you use. Below, there are some common considerations to aid you in your choice.
 
1. Color
The color of your LED’s will be the most influential choice you have to make. The color of your Motherboard, cable sleeves, fans, add-on cards, processor heatsink, basically the lights will affect everything inside your system.
 
If you use UV reactive sleeves on your cables (or use UV cables) you will want to install a few UV LED’s. If your Motherboard has blue or red connecters or colored lacquer, you will want to install LED’s that will bring out those colors (red with red, blue with blue, etc…) or you may want to attempt to avoid those colors, in that case you will want to use opposite colors (blue with red, yellow with blue, etc…)
 
2. Power
Getting power to your LED’s will vary depending on what voltage LED’s you use. When purchasing your lights look at the FORWARD Voltage (there are normally two voltage ratings on a LED the forward typical voltage (the ‘typical’ voltage means that this voltage will cause it to light however it will light at slightly lower or higher voltages, for example an LED with 3.3V typical will light up with 3V), the voltage that will cause it to light up, and the reverse voltage, the voltage that it will resist before burning out.
 
It is important to mention that if you attempt to use LED’s with varying voltages, they will probably not light up. This is because Electricity takes the easiest path it can, and If there is 1 2.5V LED and there are 2 3.3V LED’s, the two 3.3V LED’s will not light up, we would have to use resistors to get the correct amount of power to each individual diode.
 
For the purposes of this paper, we will be using one of the Molex connecters in your computer; the connecters from your power supply have 3 possible voltages one is 5V, one is 7V, and one is 12V.
 
 
 
We will be dealing with the 12V wire, you can use the 5V or 7V, but that usually calls for using resistors, and that will be saved for another article. For now, you should choose LED’s that use the same voltage.
 
3. Size
Common LED sizes are 3mm and 5mm, there really isn’t much to say about LED size, the bigger the brighter, but that is about it, you should only be concerned with size if you are working in a small area, such as installing LED’s into existing holes in your case etc…
 
4. Light out-put
Generally the brighter the LED the more expensive, at the time of this writing you can get 100 5000mcd LED’s on e-Bay for around $0.20 each. 5000mcd is nice and bright, personal preference will play a large part in you choice here, but I have been using 4000-8000mcd LED’s since I have been doing this, and I am satisfied with the performance from them.
 
Planning and Preparation
Ok, now that you have chosen you LED’s, it is time to plan your layout. You may want to use a string of LED’s or you may want to use a multiple direction setup. However you lay them out, be sure that you use the correct number of LED’s in series to provide the correct amount of voltage to each LED.
 
Wire it up
In order to get power to your LED’s, you will need some power. We will be using male Molex connecters (Molex connecters are the connecters inside your computer) to connect our LED’s to the PSU.
 
Parts Needed:
 
1. MALE Molex connecters and pins
You should be able to find some Molex connectors at your local components store, if not there are ample places on the internet, make sure you get pins with your connecters. Be sure to get MALE connecters, they look like this
 
 
 
2. Wire
Any small wire should do for this project, just make sure you get enough, about 25’ for the average system, but you could use up to 100, best to be prepared.
 
 
 
3. Solder and Iron
Again, any small solder and iron should be fine for this project.
 
 
 
4. Heat-shrink tubing
This is optional, but it looks much better when heat-shrink is used. Get tubing that is slightly larger that the wire you will be using.
 
 
 
 
Assembly
 
Here is a Diagram to help you see what you are trying to accomplish.
 
 
1) First go into the Kitchen, fix a sandwich and get a coke. Set them near your work area, but not ON your work area.
 
2) Then you should crimp and solder your wires to your Molex pins (you don’t ‘need’ to solder them, but I do anyway, it makes them stronger and ensures a good connection, solder them AFTER crimping the pins).
 
3) After that attach your pins to the Molex connecters but be careful to connect the correct pins to the correct socket, you want the “+” pin connecting to the 12V wire (usually yellow) and the other pin to the “-“ wire right next to it.
 
4) Take a bite of the sandwich and a swig of your drink.
 
5) Cut out your leads, I suggest you make them long, remember, you will be connecting leads in parallel to these and you should leave enough space so that you won’t leave any gaps in the string and remember, it is always better to have too much wire than not enough wire, then solder your lead’s to the LED’s. (And don’t forget the Heat-shrink Tubing, slide it on BEFORE you solder the wire, and slide it back, WAY back on the wire to keep it from prematurely shrinking)
 
6) Solder the correct amount of LED’s in series in order to get the correct amount of voltage to each, for instance if I wanted 3V going to each LED, then I would connect 4 LED’s in series, If I wanted 2V going to each LED, then I would connect 6 LED’s in series, If I wanted 4V going to each LED, then I would connect 3 LED’s in series, etc… use this formula to figure the number of LED’s for the power line Volts/Leads, If I have 12 volts power, and I need 3 volts going to each LED, then I would use 4 leads 12/3=4. (And don’t forget the Heat-shrink Tubing, slide it on BEFORE you solder the wire, and slide it back, WAY back on the wire to keep it from prematurely shrinking)
 
7) Eat half of the sandwich, drink half the Coke
 
8) Then add LED’s in Parallel to each series. (And don’t forget the Heat-shrink Tubing, slide it on BEFORE you solder the wire, and slide it back, WAY back on the wire to keep it from prematurely shrinking)
 
9) Make sure all your connections are secure, you don’t want to blow any circuit’s now do we Got it, good. Now would be a good time to slide that heat shrink up so that it covers up that bare wire, just don’t shrink it yet, we need to make sure that everything goes as planned then just connect it up to see if it works
 
10) If all is well, turn off the computer and shrink the tubing with a hairdryer, then mount the string of lights, you can mount it wherever you want, as long as you made your leads long enough, that is why you should make them long.
 
11) WOW! You are done! Finish your sandwich and Coke and send me a pic of you’re creation! Now don’t you feel proud!

 eGPU Setup: Macbook Pro 13" 16GB DDR3 RAM, 512GB SSD, i5 3210M, GTX 980 eGPU

New PC: i7-4790k, Corsair H100iGTX, ASrock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer, 24GB Ram, 850 EVO 256GB SSD, 1TB HDD, GTX 1080 Fractal Design R4, EVGA Supernova G2 650W

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

SNIP

I don't want a complicated way though, I just want it to work D:

 

Plus pics don't work for me

Link to post
Share on other sites

I remember someone saying there was a way to connect the 2 wires from the LED kit to a molex, plz halp

is it the control box style? if so, buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTRON-CHD04BARREL2-5-MOLEX-4-PIN-CONVERT-TO-BARREL-ID-2-5mm-OD-5-5mm-USA-MADE-/261920944843?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfbb472cb

 

what i used, so I had RGB leds that where remote controllable. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't want a complicated way though, I just want it to work D:

 

Plus pics don't work for me

I think you gotta make an account for the pics to come through

 eGPU Setup: Macbook Pro 13" 16GB DDR3 RAM, 512GB SSD, i5 3210M, GTX 980 eGPU

New PC: i7-4790k, Corsair H100iGTX, ASrock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer, 24GB Ram, 850 EVO 256GB SSD, 1TB HDD, GTX 1080 Fractal Design R4, EVGA Supernova G2 650W

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

is it the control box style? if so, buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTRON-CHD04BARREL2-5-MOLEX-4-PIN-CONVERT-TO-BARREL-ID-2-5mm-OD-5-5mm-USA-MADE-/261920944843?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfbb472cb

 

what i used, so I had RGB leds that where remote controllable. 

It's literally just 2 cables coming out of the LED strip

 

I think you gotta make an account for the pics to come through

Eh, ok

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's literally just 2 cables coming out of the LED strip

 

Eh, ok

oh okay. do you have any old molex-fan cables? or any old molex connector you can sacrifice? 

 

if so, yellow to the positive, and the negative to the black. 

 

are the cables coming out the of the LED strip colored/labeled? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

oh okay. do you have any old molex-fan cables? or any old molex connector you can sacrifice? 

 

if so, yellow to the positive, and the negative to the black. 

 

are the cables coming out the of the LED strip colored/labeled? 

I just jerry rigged the two cables to a Molex, inb4 explosion

Link to post
Share on other sites

I just jerry rigged the two cables to a Molex, inb4 explosion

its simply 12 volt. as long as ones in the yellow and the other end into the black and it lights up, your golden. if it doesn't, it's reversed. simple as that. I love my RGB set up though. Hope you love your much cheaper LEDS:D

Link to post
Share on other sites

its simply 12 volt. as long as ones in the yellow and the other end into the black and it lights up, your golden. if it doesn't, it's reversed. simple as that. I love my RGB set up though. Hope you love your much cheaper LEDS:D

I don't, they suck lol

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't, they suck lol

may I recommend http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1435196928&sr=8-4&keywords=rgb+led+5050

 

and my previous link. I did it in my PC, whole room, and working on a 60ish foot set up around my gazebo

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have replied to your other topic regarding LED lighting.

Official Profile for Addon Customs LTD and Custom Acrylics
Addon Customs -
Custom LED Lighting | Single colour and RGB available, hand sleeved | Now making Phanteks Case compatible LED KITS
Custom Acrylics - Custom computer parts | GPU backplates, Fan Grills, NZXT H440 Fascias and PSU covers | 3D printing and Laser Cutting Service available.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×