Jump to content

Using top of reservoir as inlet questions

So I'm getting ready to redo my watercooling in a different case and wanted to use the top of the reservoir as a inlet. I've seen people that have done this before and had some type of tube that goes down about half way in the tube res and had a compression fitting on top of it. What is this tube? I'm using 1/2" x 3/4" compression fittings and a Phobya Balancer 250ml reservoir. 

 

I'm also wondering how you'd fill the reservoir if you use the top as a inlet instead of using it to fill?

 

I can easily use the top of the reservoir without the tube but it makes tons of noise and creates a buttload of bubbles. 

 

 

Also, would 140.3 60mm and 120.2 60mm radiator be enough for two GTX 670 FTW+ and i5-2600k @4.5Ghz? My temps on just a single GPU and CPU are decent with the UT60 140.3 but the CPU does get a bit toasty. 

 

 

Thanks!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

the tube is called by bitspower an "aqua-tube" some call it a splash tube, (EK) internal tube.

there is no law against using any port as inlet/outlet.

 

to fill and use the same port you'd have to use a junction (some use a y-block, f-block anything

to allow sharing to the same port) block or manifold.

 

420x 60 and 240x60 is plenty. but GHz doesn't tell us much.. heat tells us a lot (air temps)

or vCORE can as well. the additional 240x 60 indeed is needed to supplement the extra GPU

and hard overclock on the CPU.

 

airdeano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

the tube is called by bitspower an "aqua-tube" some call it a splash tube, (EK) internal tube.

there is no law against using any port as inlet/outlet.

 

to fill and use the same port you'd have to use a junction (some use a y-block, f-block anything

to allow sharing to the same port) block or manifold.

 

420x 60 and 240x60 is plenty. but GHz doesn't tell us much.. heat tells us a lot (air temps)

or vCORE can as well. the additional 240x 60 indeed is needed to supplement the extra GPU

and hard overclock on the CPU.

 

airdeano

Can you please link it to me on FrozenCPU since I can't find it? How does the internal tube work exactly? Does it screw into the fitting or just sit there inside the reservoir? I'm trying to figure out it's done before buying the parts needed. 

 

Just so I understand, I would have to use a T-Line in order to fill it from the top? What would I put on the other opening of the T-Line so I can fill it without it leaking? If at all possible could you link me with the fitting I could use for the T-Line? I'm looking at fillport fittings right now but I'm unsure how they work since I've never used them. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

fluffy,

what reservoir do you have? they are not all the same..

here is the bitspower aqua tube/pipe

 

Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Aqua-Pipe I (BP-MBWP-C17)

Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Aqua-Pipe II (BP-MBWP-C18

Bitspower G 1/4 Silver Shining Aqua-Pipe I (BP-WTP-C17)

Bitspower G 1/4 Silver Shining Aqua-Pipe II (BP-WTP-C18)

 

that fitting is called a sealing plug example

 

airdeano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

fluffy,

what reservoir do you have? they are not all the same..

here is the bitspower aqua tube/pipe

 

Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Aqua-Pipe I (BP-MBWP-C17)

Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Aqua-Pipe II (BP-MBWP-C18

Bitspower G 1/4 Silver Shining Aqua-Pipe I (BP-WTP-C17)

Bitspower G 1/4 Silver Shining Aqua-Pipe II (BP-WTP-C18)

 

that fitting is called a sealing plug example

 

airdeano

 Awesome thanks, I just found those and was going to ask. I'm using this reservoir http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13129/ex-res-276/Phobya_Balancer_250_Reservoir_-_Silver_Nickel_45218.html?id=GDzyRa7Y&mv_pc=151

 

Do they have the sealing plug for 1/2" 3/4"?  

 

So what I'd do is run a T-Line, run a separate tube and use that as a fill tube and when I'm done I'd use the sealing plug? It wouldn't fill the fill tube up when initially filling and turning the pump on? Or would I just have to make sure the fill tube is at the top of the T-Line?

 

Just so I make sure I understand the Aqua-Pipe thing. I will screw that into the top of the reservoir and then run a T-Line from the top of that?

 

It's so hard to understand how everything works when I can't actually see it in person lol. I guess that's what happens when you're a visual person. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

the bits aqua pipe I in blck or silver will work fine (G1/4" inside the res cap)

 

they do have a 1/2" sealing plug

 

to run the T-Line, you'll need a coupler y, f, or t.

attach on fitting to res, one fitting to line in and last to T-Line. the sealing plug

will allow you to fill (remove if necessary) res and keep it installed or just use

the T-Line as temp and use stop plug on t-adapter.

 

airdeano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

the bits aqua pipe I in blck or silver will work fine (G1/4" inside the res cap)

 

they do have a 1/2" sealing plug

 

to run the T-Line, you'll need a coupler y, f, or t.

attach on fitting to res, one fitting to line in and last to T-Line. the sealing plug

will allow you to fill (remove if necessary) res and keep it installed or just use

the T-Line as temp and use stop plug on t-adapter.

 

airdeano

How do I use a stop plug on the T-adapter itself? I'm just wondering how that works if I had the stop plug removed if I have water going in from the other end of the T adapter. Wouldn't the water come out from where the stop fitting should be if it's removed? 

 

I'm trying to figure out how I'd fill it with just the stop plug on the t-adapter without water going all over the place when turning the pump on. Would I have to plug the t-adaper every time I turn the pump on during filling?

 

So this is how it will go in a Switch 810.

 

I'll have the reservoir mounted to the right of the motherboard with the pump mounted directly below the reservoir. So it will be Reservoir>Pump>Bottom radiator>GPU's>Top radiator>CPU>T-adapter on top of reservoir. 

 

So would I need to run a fill tube from the top of the t-adapter and use a stop plug on fill tube and hide it somewhere? 

 

Sorry for the million questions, I just like to make sure I understand everything before buying the parts. I don't like wasting money if I don't have to. 

 

EDIT: Can I use this T-Block http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15165/ex-tub-1158/Alphacool_180_T_Block_-_Deep_Black.html?id=oSqmNst8&mv_pc=4472#blank

 

So I'll use a G 1/4 extender from the top of the reservoir to the T-block? And I can screw compression fittings directly into the other ends of the connector or do I also need G 1/4 extenders for those? 

 

EDIT: I was looking at this to use for the top of the reservoir to connect to the T-adapter http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15902/ex-tub-1284/Swiftech_G14_15mm_Male_-_Female_Lok-Seal_Extension_Adapter_-_Black_15MM-G-1-4_MFA-BK.html?tl=g30c101s1354&id=GDzyRa7Y&mv_pc=1430#blank

 

Is that what I need to make the two connect?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I currently run the top of my EK tub res with an inlet. Luckily theres a second hole that I can use as a fill port. I use the included pipe that comes with the res (sorry bit hard to see in the pic) and also use 1/2" x 3/4" tubing with bitspower compressions.

It works fine having a top inlet, I just ensure that the res is filled past the pipe opening that comes down into the res to stop any aeration

 

I also use an EVGA GTX670 FTW in SLI with a RX480 + RX240. Also watercooling 3770K @ 4.6GHz 24/7, Asus MVF and RAM as well. My GPU temps have never gone over 50°C.

 

189_zps005e34ce.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I currently run the top of my EK tub res with an inlet. Luckily theres a second hole that I can use as a fill port. I use the included pipe that comes with the res (sorry bit hard to see in the pic) and also use 1/2" x 3/4" tubing with bitspower compressions.

It works fine having a top inlet, I just ensure that the res is filled past the pipe opening that comes down into the res to stop any aeration

 

I also use an EVGA GTX670 FTW in SLI with a RX480 + RX240. Also watercooling 3770K @ 4.6GHz 24/7, Asus MVF and RAM as well. My GPU temps have never gone over 50°C.

 

189_zps005e34ce.jpg

That looks awesome!!!

 

I think what I might end up doing is flipping the reservoir upside down so I don't need a t-adapter. However, I noticed that when the water level went past the top of the tube it started to leak slightly. I'm wondering if I keep the tube the same direction but switch the top and bottom ends if it would still leak. I don't know if it's the tube that doesn't have a good seal or it's the actual metal pieces at the end. Do you have any idea how I go about removing the metal silver thing in the bottom of the reservoir? I don't need it if it's at the top of the reservoir and it blocks the inlet tube. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks awesome!!!

 

I think what I might end up doing is flipping the reservoir upside down so I don't need a t-adapter. However, I noticed that when the water level went past the top of the tube it started to leak slightly. I'm wondering if I keep the tube the same direction but switch the top and bottom ends if it would still leak. I don't know if it's the tube that doesn't have a good seal or it's the actual metal pieces at the end. Do you have any idea how I go about removing the metal silver thing in the bottom of the reservoir? I don't need it if it's at the top of the reservoir and it blocks the inlet tube. 

 

If you're talking about the caps they should be able to screw off. Not sure what you're referring too by "metal silver thing".

Why not just flip it upside down?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're talking about the caps they should be able to screw off. Not sure what you're referring too by "metal silver thing".

Why not just flip it upside down?

It's the thing that sits at the bottom of the tube to stop bubbles. I can't think of the name since I'm tired lol. Well I was saying that I can't flip it upside down because when I had water above the top of the tube it started to leak from the end cap where the tube ends and the end cap begins. So if I put that at the bottom I'm extremely worried it's going to leak. That's why I want to switch just the end caps instead of flipping the tube. It could end up being the end cap that leaks not the tube. I would try to fill it both ways and see but I really don't want to drain my loop  :P

 

Oh well, I guess it doesn't really matter now since I have all my parts needed ready to order for the t-line at the top and a t-line at the bottom. I'm close to going over $1000 in total just for watercooling parts that will be in the computer lol. Oh man, people weren't joking how expensive this stuff gets!!! I'm thinking it might be cheaper to build boxes or something for fun instead of this  :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's the thing that sits at the bottom of the tube to stop bubbles.

That to stop vortexs. The kind you get when you pull the plug in the sink. If the bottom of it goes into the tube then you're about to get an awful lot of air in your loop. ;)

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

Add me to your circles on Google+ here or you can follow me on twitter @deadfire19.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

That to stop vortexs. The kind you get when you pull the plug in the sink. If the bottom of it goes into the tube then you're about to get an awful lot of air in your loop. ;)

Yep I knew it did something lol. It seems like it's welded to the inside of the cap. I tried pulling it out but it didn't happen for me. Probably a lot easier to just pay for the fittings instead of messing with it for hours. Well here's to hoping I bought all the correct fittings. Really hard buying fittings online for a case I don't have either! I pretty much just have to guess how everything will install inside the case. I really hope everything is correct otherwise I just wasted a buttload of money. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep I knew it did something lol. It seems like it's welded to the inside of the cap. I tried pulling it out but it didn't happen for me. Probably a lot easier to just pay for the fittings instead of messing with it for hours. Well here's to hoping I bought all the correct fittings. Really hard buying fittings online for a case I don't have either! I pretty much just have to guess how everything will install inside the case. I really hope everything is correct otherwise I just wasted a buttload of money. 

Draw out your loop, it helps to visualize it.

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

Add me to your circles on Google+ here or you can follow me on twitter @deadfire19.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Draw out your loop, it helps to visualize it.

What I did was look at pictures of the Switch 810 on Amazon since they have some that are fully watercooled. I understand how I want it but it's just hard to know exactly how the tubes are going to look and what fittings would make the best lines. I drew out a picture when I built my watercooling into my 550D and needless to say, when it came time to build everything went wrong. Nothing lined up how I wanted it and fittings I bought for some things had to be used for something else because the bend of the tube was just too much. 

 

Another issue I'm having is I'm adding two t-line fittings, a drain port, and SLI bridge for the two waterblocks. I've never used any of that, nor have I seen them in person. I really wish this stuff was in stores here so I could see it first hand. All I can do is look at pictures and maybe get lucky and find a video of somebody else using it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

What I did was look at pictures of the Switch 810 on Amazon since they have some that are fully watercooled. I understand how I want it but it's just hard to know exactly how the tubes are going to look and what fittings would make the best lines. I drew out a picture when I built my watercooling into my 550D and needless to say, when it came time to build everything went wrong. Nothing lined up how I wanted it and fittings I bought for some things had to be used for something else because the bend of the tube was just too much. 

 

Another issue I'm having is I'm adding two t-line fittings, a drain port, and SLI bridge for the two waterblocks. I've never used any of that, nor have I seen them in person. I really wish this stuff was in stores here so I could see it first hand. All I can do is look at pictures and maybe get lucky and find a video of somebody else using it. 

Grab a 2D snapshot of the Switch and draw the components in (roughly to scale). Believe me it helps.

 

What T-line fittings do you plan to use and why?

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

Add me to your circles on Google+ here or you can follow me on twitter @deadfire19.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to be using two of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15165/ex-tub-1158/Alphacool_180_T_Block_-_Deep_Black.html?id=oSqmNst8&mv_pc=29647

 

Using one for the top in order to use the top of the reservoir as a inlet and be able to fill the reservoir. I'm using the second one on the bottom radiator so I can use this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Matte_Black_BP-MVV-MBK.html?id=oSqmNst8&mv_pc=29652 to drain the loop. Any insight that could save me money would be more than welcome. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to be using two of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15165/ex-tub-1158/Alphacool_180_T_Block_-_Deep_Black.html?id=oSqmNst8&mv_pc=29647

 

Using one for the top in order to use the top of the reservoir as a inlet and be able to fill the reservoir. I'm using the second one on the bottom radiator so I can use this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Matte_Black_BP-MVV-MBK.html?id=oSqmNst8&mv_pc=29652 to drain the loop. Any insight that could save me money would be more than welcome. 

You can use a drain port rather than a valve. Its a bit more messy but if you do it right its smaller and cheaper.

 

Its basically just a manifold with a "cap" on one of exits. Unscrew the cap to make the water come out. Put a container under it for water to flow into.

 

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Koolance-14-Thread-Fill--Drain-Port--PRT-XGK-pid-12817.html

 

Use this to connect it to a manifold: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=13994&cat=1251&page=

 

What it does is it makes it stick out giving you enough place to put a beaker. Hopefully you can visualize it.

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

Add me to your circles on Google+ here or you can follow me on twitter @deadfire19.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can use a drain port rather than a valve. Its a bit more messy but if you do it right its smaller and cheaper.

 

Its basically just a manifold with a "cap" on one of exits. Unscrew the cap to make the water come out. Put a container under it for water to flow into.

 

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Koolance-14-Thread-Fill--Drain-Port--PRT-XGK-pid-12817.html

 

Use this to connect it to a manifold: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=13994&cat=1251&page=

 

What it does is it makes it stick out giving you enough place to put a beaker. Hopefully you can visualize it.

You know, I was actually considering doing this instead. I was thinking of using a Male to Female fitting on the bottom T-line and using just a stop plug or use an extender and then a stop plug. 

 

I should really go to bed since I'm losing my mind when trying to visualize all of this lol. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×