Best Way to Split Computer Audio

[mattias1172]

I'm looking for the best way to split the audio from my PC to my speakers and headset with the ability to toggle between the 2 while reducing noise/interference as much as possible. 

 

Currently, i use a cheap method that's worked for a few years now. I have a 3.5mm cable from my PC to a 3.5mm splitter that has toggle buttons on it for 2 different outputs. Those 2 different outputs have a 3.5mm cable to my headset and to my speakers. Recently however, i've had more static and noise coming from them. 

 

It is possible i just need to replace the 3.5mm cables but wondering if there is a better method. My PC does have optical out, would i be better getting something like an amp that has 2 3.5mm outputs and connecting that to my pc via optical? I have tried ground loop isolators on the 3.5mm cables, but they only work so much.  

[Millios]

Personally I switch between speakers and headset using the settings (it works if you can have both outputs plugged in at the same time)

Right click the lil speaker on the task bar, choose the "sounds" option (thats at least whats its called in my windows language) and in the 1st tab on that lil window it lets me disable and re enable the preffered output to change what produces the sound

[OhYou_]

yes its called an A B Switch.
most use old rca style connectors so you have to buy a few rca to 3.5mm adaptors for those or try to find one for 3.5mm.

theres always risk of loss with anything you add to audio because it is all analogue. If you want to properly reduce it, then buy a usb DAC with multiple outputs. a lot of them will have support for headset or desk speakers.

if you want the end game solution, then you get a dac specifically designed for driving speakers, and a dac specifically designed for driving your headphones, and you switch between the two in software.
that's your 3 levels of options.

[GuiltySpark_]

18 minutes ago, Millios said:

Personally I switch between speakers and headset using the settings (it works if you can have both outputs plugged in at the same time)

Right click the lil speaker on the task bar, choose the "sounds" option (thats at least whats its called in my windows language) and in the 1st tab on that lil window it lets me disable and re enable the preffered output to change what produces the sound

Ideal for me as well, but only useful if you have two independent outputs. I'm using analog onboard audio for my speakers and TOSLINK optical to a DAC for headphones so they show up as two devices and I can cleanly swap between them.

[jmwhite33]

If you are using one Line Out for connecting both, the solution Millios won't work.

Does your system not have a front audio connector? That would separate the signal and then Millios solution would work.

Usually the system/software will detect if headphones are plugged into the front audio output and switch automatically.

Works that way on my old Dell workstation as well as the soundblaster card in game machine.

If your board has the header you can probably get a front panel connecter and make it work

[Millios]

1 minute ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Ideal for me as well, but only useful if you have two independent outputs. I'm using analog onboard audio for my speakers and TOSLINK optical to a DAC for headphones so they show up as two devices and I can cleanly swap between them.

I think 1 3.5mm to USB adapter would solve the issue/make it viable if it already isnt (I believe they also dont augment audio as well, at least not that I've noticed)
Personally I use pebble speakers (3.5mm jack output and USB only for power) and a USB headset and they both show up as options seperately which is why it works for me

[saintlouisbagels]

Overkill solution, but I don't know of any alternatives for multiple 3.5mm outputs at reasonable quality.

You would use the (lime green) Line Out port on the motherboard and feed it into the 'Input' here.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-PH05-5-Channel-Headphones/dp/B0CYLSD4GJ/

[jmwhite33]

46 minutes ago, mattias1172 said:

I'm looking for the best way to split the audio from my PC to my speakers and headset with the ability to toggle between the 2 while reducing noise/interference as much as possible. 

 

Currently, i use a cheap method that's worked for a few years now. I have a 3.5mm cable from my PC to a 3.5mm splitter that has toggle buttons on it for 2 different outputs. Those 2 different outputs have a 3.5mm cable to my headset and to my speakers. Recently however, i've had more static and noise coming from them. 

 

It is possible i just need to replace the 3.5mm cables but wondering if there is a better method. My PC does have optical out, would i be better getting something like an amp that has 2 3.5mm outputs and connecting that to my pc via optical? I have tried ground loop isolators on the 3.5mm cables, but they only work so much.  

you don't mention, is this a laptop?

if a laptop my previous advice isn't applicable, otherwise hooking up the front panel audio would most likely solve it.

[porina]

25 minutes ago, jmwhite33 said:

Does your system not have a front audio connector? That would separate the signal and then Millios solution would work.

Usually the system/software will detect if headphones are plugged into the front audio output and switch automatically.

I use a variation of this. On my desktop I have analog speakers plugged into the rear, and headphones on the front. Switching between the two is 3 clicks from Win11 task bar. Windows also remembers the volume setting of each separately.

[GuiltySpark_]

29 minutes ago, Millios said:

I think 1 3.5mm to USB adapter would solve the issue/make it viable if it already isnt (I believe they also dont augment audio as well, at least not that I've noticed)
Personally I use pebble speakers (3.5mm jack output and USB only for power) and a USB headset and they both show up as options seperately which is why it works for me

Yep, introducing a small USB "soundcard" would make a new "device" and allow swapping between it and any other device simple right in Windows.

 

I'm at work an on Windows 10 (yuck) but the concept is the same.

 

Really the simplest solution.

 

[jaslion]

40 minutes ago, saintlouisbagels said:

Overkill solution, but I don't know of any alternatives for multiple 3.5mm outputs at reasonable quality.

You would use the (lime green) Line Out port on the motherboard and feed it into the 'Input' here.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-PH05-5-Channel-Headphones/dp/B0CYLSD4GJ/

Behringer a400 is a good and cheaper alternative. More basic but fits ops usecase perfectly

[mattias1172]

It is a desktop and does have front audio, but my PC is at the end of my desk about 4 feet away and i have all of the cables managed out the back and under the desk. 

 

39 minutes ago, saintlouisbagels said:

Overkill solution, but I don't know of any alternatives for multiple 3.5mm outputs at reasonable quality.

You would use the (lime green) Line Out port on the motherboard and feed it into the 'Input' here.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-PH05-5-Channel-Headphones/dp/B0CYLSD4GJ/

 

55 minutes ago, OhYou_ said:

yes its called an A B Switch.
most use old rca style connectors so you have to buy a few rca to 3.5mm adaptors for those or try to find one for 3.5mm.

theres always risk of loss with anything you add to audio because it is all analogue. If you want to properly reduce it, then buy a usb DAC with multiple outputs. a lot of them will have support for headset or desk speakers.

if you want the end game solution, then you get a dac specifically designed for driving speakers, and a dac specifically designed for driving your headphones, and you switch between the two in software.
that's your 3 levels of options.

 

These are both good starting points. Any recommendations on brands/models for a USB DAC? I'm not familiar with the brands best known for quality. 

[jaslion]

23 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Yep, introducing a small USB "soundcard" would make a new "device" and allow swapping between it and any other device simple right in Windows.

 

I'm at work an on Windows 10 (yuck) but the concept is the same.

 

Really the simplest solution.

 

The hardware way does have the advantage of the audio output always being correct. This swapping way can lead to some minor issues with that. As long as the interface works that doesnt happen

 

In the end it comes down to preference I use a ha400 behringer for speakers, headset, other headphones and other set of speakers was a great 13€ 7 years ago

[jmwhite33]

20 minutes ago, mattias1172 said:

It is a desktop and does have front audio, but my PC is at the end of my desk about 4 feet away and i have all of the cables managed out the back and under the desk. 

 

 

 

These are both good starting points. Any recommendations on brands/models for a USB DAC? I'm not familiar with the brands best known for quality. 

@mattias1172

Then maybe just a long cord would solve it.

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Extension-Auxiliary-Extender-Speakers/dp/B0894RPZ82/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2ZK60O8SFO71M&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qF1hRpvnmhKcoZxJP-YIvOdOi0SPPflwTJnZEE4qlfrMducq8nS8ngaTBwuxK_PEtYe8T8tyiOvUgLKL161T_WDpNuTV8wpY4QJaGESItfWd_QwZs3QlDhBid_NgogxxXGSXEVva986c7niO_zKo8RBsBBnwGYJBsDJ6WnUnBI6telvlwMNhMr4SXPC78qHxptXXidxEFJlJml2_8B3bUm-BeEWc2JZVIr7xbwfeJ9I.pLJFCYVCi7XbCGtfS1I7Bfp2a91z1nFFUEY1prIO3Fw&dib_tag=se&keywords=3.5m%2Bauxiliary%2Bcord%2Bmale%2Ffemale&qid=1747240509&sprefix=3.5m%2Bauxiliary%2Bcord%2Bmale%2Ffemale%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-2&th=1

[OhYou_]

17 minutes ago, mattias1172 said:

recommendations on brands/models for a USB DAC

I'm not the best source for it, I use a scarlett solo, it has line out and headphone out but they are tied together so the sound just always comes out both ports.
For me it also runs my mic setup which uses the 48v power, and provides an input for retro games that I can directly monitor/mix with my pc audio (cant be used with mic at same time unless I want to capture both mic and game audio mixed. It's probably not the best setup for you with dual outputs but if you want to do that stuff with inputs, you could look at a higher end model from them.

[saintlouisbagels]

46 minutes ago, mattias1172 said:

It is a desktop and does have front audio

The front audio panel is a 'headphone output' and the audio signal has gone through both the motherboard DAC and headphone amp + whatever audio processing from Windows/motherboard OEM.
 

The Line Out port in the rear is a clean analog signal that has only gone through the motherboard DAC.

 

If the rear port is totally inaccessible, then you should buy a USB DAC such as the excellent $9 Apple USB-C to headphone adapter.
https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MW2Q3AM/A/usb-c-to-35-mm-headphone-jack-adapter
You could probably make a weird solution of:
Headphones + Speakers > 3.5mm splitter > 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable > 3.5mm to USB-C dongle > (USB-C to USB-A adapter > ) USB extension cable > USB port on PC

[jmwhite33]

wow, some folks are making this far more complicated than it needs to be.

Spend less than $10 on a longer cord, route it around the back to where you are sitting and be done with it.

You don't need adapter or any such thing, just a longer cord.

May not be the most aesthetically pleasing but is the most concise, straight forward solution.

[mattias1172]

I do already have a long 3.5mm cable routed from the back of the desktop to under my desk where i have my output switch mounted under the desk. This has worked for a few years, but is starting to generate noise. Before i spend time and money to buy new 3.5mm cables and re-route them to see if that solves it, i wanted to see what suggestions people had for a better way to do this setup. 

 

The USB DAC so far seems like the best next step along with a multi-channel splitter amp. 

[saintlouisbagels]

If I had to choose between a long 3.5mm cable (analog) and a long USB cable (digital), I would choose a long USB cable.

It's actually I have my current desktop setup.

 

At the front edge of my desk is an open 3.5mm output for IEMs and headphones. It's converted from USB-C to USB-A. And then it's plugged into a long USB-A extension cable that's routed back to my desktop computer.